pindie

I use a waxed cotton smock. Never leaks, lasts forever and thorn proof!

Me too! I'd like the standard shape and bend just 25mm higher.

You do look stiff but so am I watching trials vids! It looks to me like you anticipate the drops going down the steps but not when you go up as you are more tense. You seem to be using a lot of upper body which is making the front end weighted and harder to float over the height changes. Are you happier going down hills more than up generally? If so I'd only go up until you find it just as comfy. You are doing the right thing looking where you want to go rather than where you are.

Do it properly and stand up.

Beta 200 Rev 3 or Evo. Very easy to ride, more than enough power and they won't lead you into trouble. They are also easy to sell later on if you find you need more power as they are sought after machines because of the ability. You tend to get older riders buying the 200's so they get looked after and maintained well. This would be obvious when you see the bike and the owner regardless of bike age. A well maintained bike will appear so.

I'd go on condition personally. Both are excellent bikes and great fun. All trials iron have "issues" somewhere so don't be put off by negative press on either model. Budget a couple of hundred quid to tidy the bike up once bought and you'll be happy for a long while.

You need to mix it all together and down it in one. Vagisil, Buckfast and Iron Bru shandy is one of the best cures for an oily piston crown and slick exhaust port.

Chuckindenver - is that Rev 3 oil and amounts? That's what I've just put in my 200 Rev 3. Is the Evo the same? Stiffer springs will make the bike harder to compress and suspension will return faster. Your weight will also be supported more readily if you are heavy. Unless all your preload is maxed out and you can't get the right sag I'd leave the standard springs in. Fresh oil makes a world of difference to feel and speed of the forks. 5 wt seems to be to most common in my opinion but I know a few riders running 7.5 as the thicker oil helps slow down the action if your clickers can't control the 5 wt. Less oil makes the fork softer and more oil makes them firmer. My advice would be to see where your setting are by counting preload turns back from maximum and your damper setting from max. Once you know these you can assess if you are bottom, middle or top of the operating range of your forks/shock. If everything is at minimum try adjusting things to the settings found in the manual. If they are all maxed out try the same first as it might be simply bad set up which makes them feel terrible. Suspension is affected by many things from tyre pressure through to ambient temp and riding style before you need to worry about changing stuff around. Are all your swing arm bearings clean and greased well? When was the fork oil last changed? If you don't know the answers to these I'd start here - you might find the cure! You can really wreck a bike by having badly set up suspension and the manufacturers spend a huge amount on getting a good base setting right so trust them and be sure it is as intended before changing things a lot. There are so many myths out there as to what works etc but my advice is if you really feel its wrong you need to at least have a chat with a suspension tuner and let them see your set up before ripping it apart.

On my rev 3 I use 6/7 turns of front per load and quite a bit of rear per load and calm it down with no more than three clicks of damping. I like my bike lively! I use 5wt oil in the forks with the amounts specified by Beta. My shock was re built using online oil in case that makes a difference. My suspension is better than me! Get the sag and spring feel roughly right and go harder/softer both ends until the bike all feels light and wheels are easy to lift either end whilst riding. To calm it down then do the damping to the desired amount for average conditions. Two click more for thick mud, two less for bone dry conditions.

Pilates.

Join a Pilates group run by a proper physio. It'll be sorted.

Always make your turns tighter for practice than you find in a trial. Train hard. Fight easy!

Use new sticky grips. Warm/stretch forearms before riding by bending fingers back as far as comfy and hold for 10 secs three times. If they pump, do the stretches again.

Increase your fork preload and reduce your rebound damping. Roll along in second or third gear at just above tick over. Dip the knees to compress your forks and as they unload wind the throttle on and the wheel will lift. You won't need the clutch. If need be use a piece of 4x2 as a kicker for the wheel to rebound off as the forks decompress. Once you get small lift you'll have the feel. You can then get higher and further but just cover the rear brake in case.

Don't bother trying to balance cold. Get out and ride for at least 10mins and you'll find it easier. Once you can do this you can move on to garage balancing.

Excellent. Looked a bit drunk to me.

I bet no ones bled it and changed the brake fluid since 2009. I'd start with a fluid change and bleed. I reckon you'll find it'll work a lot better. You'll may even find the more accurate guild movement stops the squeak. If not try the copper grease on the back of pads. It works for me. Some bike cleaners and spray lube drift can cause brake squeaks also.

+1

I've a beta rev 3 200. Its ace and never feels too much. I had a raga 300 before which was too much. I too come from an mx, enduro and road race back ground and feel that trials uses skills the other disciplines don't need but not the other way around. A handy trials rider can always ride anything else and do well. Your average mx rider has little or no finesse and struggles in trials with throttle control and keeping things cool and under control. Trials need brains not braun. You could by a bigger cc bike and tame it down but why bother when you can just go and buy a tidy 200 and just ride it. In a year or so you can trade up if you so desire? I bet you don't though.

I found the same and I think I get better grip as I can feel what I'm doing. Trials bikes do not have a "wild" hit like mx or enduro bikes so in my opinion they don't need slowing down but you do need feel.

I like that!

You could use a cork? Try trials & tribulations or Bvm web sites...

I agree. A mate brought a 99 gasser 270 as a rolling shed. He has had to spend some money on it but its all be neglected maintenance. Even putting all the things right and his initial purchase means its still cheap wheels. If your riding sportsman you don't need a mega bike, just one that goes, stops and turn is enough regardless of cc or weight. No crazy hops or nadgery stuff more modern tackle is required for.

I'll second fresh oil in the forks. I've done mine and its very different in a good way.

Yes to all three. Makes the bike far more responsive and controllable. Mines a 200 so having the extra zap is handy. It is even handier that when you shut the throttle the thrust stops when you expect it to.