pindie

My 2007 Rev 3 200 needed an M30 x 1.5. All the wires linked into the loom up in the headstock. I had to loosen the radiator and front frame rails etc to make it easy. The bonus bit is that you get the chance to clean everything, change the coolant and you get a lovely stator back from those great chaps at WCW. I also ditched the flywheel weight and it improves the bike no end. Once repaired its worth taking off the stator cover after washing and leav of till your next ride - they rot from the inside out so you don't see anything obvoius until it goes kaput.

As the title says really. I'm going to chnage my fork oil. It been in there a while now so I think fresh oil will be a treat for this summers riding. I'm not going to do wipers and seals as they don't leak and I clean them regularly. I was going to use 5WT fork oil. Is that right? From what I've read a 1 litre bottle is ample for both legs. Can I simply remove each leg from the bike once the caps are loosened and tip out the old oil? I was going leave them inverted overnight to let anything else come out. My next step is refill with the amounts in the manual and bolt back together. I'm sure it can't be this easy?

Good call. If a tooth had been knocked of and jammed in the internal gears you could be heading for a gearbox doom time. The bit thatwas locking it up has mysteriously dropped out so things are now free. Where is that bit gone if there is a loose bit? Could be worth a G box oil change to see what comes out?

Its not the barrel full of water is it?

Sounds like a stuck float or worn needle valve seal in the carb. Turn the fuel off, drain carb, take the plug out and clean the insulator etc so it's dry (leave out at the moment). Kick the bike over 20 times to expell any excess fuel. Plug back in. Fuel on and try a normal start procedure. If the fuel floods again then its your valve or floats. When were they last set properly? Is this a sudden change of how it starts/works or has it got worse over time?

I have an IRC rear on my Rev3. It's lasted well considring 70% of my riding is on manmade concrete structure and limestone boulders. It has minor cuts and abrasions on the side wall but no deep splits. It's never lost since being turned and the tyre seems fairly resistant to wear unless you do silly things like rolling burn outs etc. A friend uses and X lite on a 1999 Gasser on the same terrain and he has also had no snags and you can physically see the softer X Lite squidging around roaks etc. It has way better ability to wrap around objects to increase surface area. Either one seems good but I'll be going X lIte as soon as the IRC dies.

There was a test of cameras on the Gadget show the other day. The Go Pro whupped the other two even when dropped from the edge of space into a field. One of the others on test was loads of money but rubbish image quality. Go Pro is the way to go if you want to film your crash!

I too have a Rev3. I removed the weight when my coils died. I had it repaired and did not bother putting the weight back on. I'm glad I did'nt put it back as the bike is much nicer to ride. If I were you I'd remove the weight which will allow you to spray in WD. I reckon you will like how it feels as well. You can always put it back on if you don't. The windings rot from the inside out so you don't see the damage until it is to late. Mine looked fine but it was dead as a dodo when tested.

Be sure to fit some heated grips as well...

The whole question is irrelavent unless you have a clean and sorted air filter. Any changes here and you will get engine damage from either weak running if a hole is in the filter or dirt. A blocked or wet filter also means it'll run rich as a pig and you'll get spooge even if your jetting and mix is spot on..

Isopropyl alcohol cleans all that kind of sticky nasty stuff off. Its cheap on ebay

Too many vids exist with the shot too low. Angle is everything for the best vids even if the content is naff. Can you bike mount it or is that to shaky? I'm thinking fork leg, exhaust or somewhere where you don't get to much movement.

I can't use it as it says not for children on the tin.

I think you'll find Beta puts the kick start on the proper side as it's better. Beta=Better!

I have a 200 and just use third as well as second to give me longer gearing when required. I hardly ever use 1st.... Trials gearing is not a set sequence i.e. 1,2,3,4,5 & 6 once flat out. You often start off in say 2nd or third gear and thats it unless on the road/trail. 200's always run out of puff on this kind of going though.

The travel needs to be at the actuation rod not nescessarilly the lever as wear in the joint may make you think you have te right amount. Are your pad pins worn? When you re build the calipers you need a smear of copper grease on the pins and pad backs.

True - If you learn to balance you won't need new levers. I've never managed it yet but I'll let you know if I do.

Buy cheap buy twice I'm afraid on levers.

Looks like the previous owner was scared of maintenance. You'll have a good bike once sorted though.

Excellent news! That's saved you a fortune. If you want another trick to try see if you can either blag a tanks worth of Castrol A747 or Maxima 927 castor oil. Mix that at 60:1 and see if it runs better still. My Rev 3 is a different bike using castor oil but you do need to get the revs up from time to time if you do a lot of section riding - its fine to use for a weekends trialling though. Every 5th tank (guestamation) I use the Putoline fully synth and it rattles when on that but helps keep it all clean ( I don't know how). Smooth as silk on Castor though with no rattles, better bottom end etc.

As tight as you can get it is what I did. I used the matting material and wrapped it tightly as poss. I then filled any corners with the off cuts - I still have a bit left over for next time.

Use gloss paint as coolant. That way it will seal up any leaks as you go. I am joking of course!

You can use lumiweld to do a more permanent repair also....

I had an old air cooled crosser that did that. I put the bolt in and the arm on the splines as normal. I then put a blob of silicone onto the shaft end and smoothed it over so it covers the shaft end and onto the face of the arm. This way the silicone absorbs the vibes. It also lets you pull the arm off agin if you need to. You could also make a small loop of 25lb fishing line from the kicker arm to the bike so if it does fall off you don't lose it. This can be handy on many parts if you have a vibey bike or ride on hard rocky ground fast and regularly.

The packing is like a sponge but through capillary action not pore spaces . It absorbs lots of oil over time and becomes saturated. It then drips out hence it does it when the packing needs a change. Leave it longer and the soaked packing breaks up and then it gets noisy.