pindie

Replace any bodged or worn bits as you find them. it is false economy if you do not. If it feels heavy I'd say the suspension is all very tired with little or no preload left in springs front or rear. You might be able to knock up spacers as a quick fix but newer springs will be wise in the long run and a general overhaul/service. Enjoy the ride!

Agreed. Once you can stand you can start very early Pilates exercises. I'd get advice from your hospital physio as that's where I started from. Don't follow You Tube ones until you are pretty sorted. It's a huge range of simple exercises but you need to start at the basics. You will have the core stability and strength of an ox doing Pilates. If its good enough for Cyril Depres for Dakar fitness it's good enough for me. I have two burst discs in my back which have meant periods of serious agony and no feeling in my legs so been totally dependant on others - not nice at all. Pilates has got me on my bike again (which trials helps anyway) and I can now move better than most of my injury free friends. My balance is awesome since doing Pilates also. Go steady and work back up from baby steps and you'll be fine.

I made my own flags by using coloured a4 PVC sheets from eBay and wire from coat hangers. Worked out about 2p per flag.

It's worth letting trials clubs know as the Ossa is still not that common. I know how bad you feel so good luck. For what it's worth I'd be happy to see the thief break their scrawny neck on it and you get it back without damage.

I second that trials does not follow normal suspension principles compared to enduro, mx or road racing. It's similar but the actual spring type force is used as a help in trials. Set up is the way ahead.

Mine (shock) was rebuilt by a chap oop norf. It was £80 including bearings, seals etc. Top class job as its not leaked or gone wrong since and has been loads better since the repair. His name Andy Dawson on 07973628270.

Why do the repair people mention rot then? I took this meant rust or decay from damp. Therefore the new thicker wire lasts better etc. I'm really curious of the real cause as the Beta can't be the only bike that gets condensation but it is the one that suffers the most.

Getting the suspension right is key to it riding nice. Keep searching on here for rev 3 shock settings etc and you'll find useful stuff. It's easy to do following the guide. If I find it ill post a link....

Go on the Beta website and they show the bearings in the parts diagrams with serial numbers. Contact your local Hayley bearings and they will be less than half price for top notch bearings. As a general rule for everyone, if you strip and clean with new RG2 waterproof grease every year it only takes an hour to do and means you'll never replace again and the only cost is a tub of grease every two years. It also means everything works better and you won't blame the shock when the bearings are tight through lack of maintenance.

All points taken. I think some bikes suffer more than others regardless of make and model. I live near the sea on low ground so wonder if the air is a higher humidity which makes it worse. This is the only bike I have ever noticed do this though in 25 years of riding. Riding trials in Wales means deep water at an event most of the time so I would worry about a hole in the bottom even if only small. Does a spinning flywheel create negative or positive pressure in the case? If negative it could suck a whole load of gunge in when in deep water.You'd then be in deep s h 1 t e. I like the tyre valve idea. Bigger hole etc = more air and less condesation but still a better but not fully sealed case. I might buy a new less knocked case anyway and "mod" the old case as a test. I can try both then. On the other hand laziness may strike and I just whip the bolts out after every ride with my cordless drill and leave the cover off till next time.

I reckon this is the way to go then. Dry, non sealed cover that is removed after every ride. My only concern is really wet sections and river crossings - would water entry be a big problem or does it not happen? I am happy to remove the cover once back in the garage as the bike just sits on a stand till I next go out. Afterall it is only three bolts to remove to vent the stator and never have another issue.

High gear and lower tyre pressure. Gentle throttle, weight over back end.

Since having my stator repaired last year on my 2007 Rev 3 200 I am obviously paranoid about another failure. I know that the repair used better quality wire etc so this should not happen but you never know. I spent a lot of time making sure I had a really good seal when I put the case back on and used and pukka automotive gasket to ensure watertightness..... After three months I removed the cover to discover that it had damp inside - not really water as such but beads of condensation. Hmmmm, I thought. Is water getting in? Damaged cover? Bad seal? I have tried everything and no matter what the condesation appears in the cover after very ride wet or dry. Today I have been out for a long while. Bike well up to temp. Bone dry weather, no puddles and dry dusty ground. I come home and whip the cover of and you've guessed it. Condesation forming on the inside of the cover. My guess is the breather is either too small to let the condensed vapour escape? Anyone else think this? My next thought is possibly the plastic case just does it naturally and there is nothing you can do to prevent it. I.e. a design fault. So this leaves me with three questions- 1. Do I just keep removing the cover after very ride when the bike is warm to let it dry out (which I am currently doing)? 2. Buy a new case and see if there is any change? 3. What does veryone else do with Rev 3s that seem to like making water in the stator cover from nothing (this would be well handy in the desert though).

Do pilates to heal - it really helps and will improve your balance no end.

+1

How much?

I can vouch for that type of holder for the flywheel. I made a similar one from some that ally i hadthat was scrap and it kept bending. I then made a steel one and its easy peesy. Make the handle section at least 450mm long so you can wedge it against the foot rest when undoing and tightening. Your locations not on your signature. I have a puller if your near Newport, South Wales. PM me if needed.

200 Rev 3. I too have a sketchy spine issues and its a top bike.

Email Lampkins. They will have one one on the shelf or will know where one is. There are custom spring makers out there too but I reckon Lampkins is the best place to start.

Try 3rd gear roll on at middle revs and crack the throttle wide. Try it in both modes. One should feel different to the other.

Possibly. Would it not be less stressful long term to just save up and get the required parts brand new?

Is it adjusted to the max?i.e the preload collars.

Buy one, take it to Michelin and see what they think? If hes a dodgy geezer then Mich may reward you for your trouble? Possibly with a few free tyres. I know I would.

How do you mean? Do you mean the handlebar switch? On my old Raga gasser it was.... Rain/wet map = softer delivery and reduced throttle feel - good for mud etc. Dry/power map = crisper delivery and better power but it comes way quicker - excellent for sudden power bursts etc.

Your a legend Sam.