pindie

I did my fork oil yesterday. The old stuff was definitely past it’s best. Comp side is easy. I tried the rebound cartridge strip and re fill method which works but is a bit fiddly. Definitely worth doing if you have old oil in the forks - in there was full of nasty gunk that I was glad to clean out.... I then wondered if there is an easier way to prime the rebound cartridge for when doing more frequent oil changes. There is! You can just remove the brass tipped rebound adjustment rod from the top of the fork. Carefully slide it out the cartridge. You can then pour oil straight down the hollow cartridge slowly. When full, re fit the adjustment rod and tighten to force oil into where it’s needed. Now you need to repeat the rod remove, oil fill and rod replace several times. Each time the adjustment rod goes back in it forces oil into the cartridge. Mine took about 5 goes and was air free. I then re fitted the cartridge to the tubes. Set my air gap and put the forks in the bike. A test ride revealed no pogo stick! It works the same but means a lot less messing about.

But only for GG? How come only the handlebar tank for everything else?

On some SSDT and Scott Trial vids some riders are using slightly larger tanks- they appear to always be on gassers. Are GG the only manufacturer to offer a bigger tank for longer rides?

Ha ha, just seen this! Nice to see you chaps on here too. I used to have a 300 Raga, then Rev 3 200. Now I have an Ossa TR280i I’ve brought back to life. I love a bit of trials!

Brilliant!!!!!!

That was my thinking. Get it running clean on the 5 then pop in the 4 I need to. Im guessing I need to move the TPS so it just ticks over nicely and no more.

TPS definitely moved if it’s on the left of the bike. I did that when I replaced the old air filter! It always idled too low before the filter change. Then not at all after the filter change. I noted I’d moved (what I think is) the TPS so put that back as it previously looked. It idled better then and if I move it when the motors warm it increases and decreases revs hence me tightening it back up where it worked best- it rides lovely but does need occasional clearing out which I think is odd for FI? I’ve just got the TPS slightly in the wrong place. I’ll do some micro adjustments to see what I can do to try and reduce overfueling. I’ve just put a new BPR5ES plug in, the previous one was original! New one is now dry, sooty and black so definitely rich. I also have a new BPR4ES to try. What it really needs is plugging in and setting up properly. Anyone with cables and software near (within an hour) of South Wales? It’d be great to get this bike running as Mr Ossa intended.

Definitely not 75 miles lol. Its just around my local practice ground. I’m not revving the spuds of it etc. Just mooching about and rolling pretty much everything, I’m no stunting hopper! Riding on the road was the end for my Raga so I’m not doing that either. The Ossa is pure indulgence. Great fun and so much better than me. I love the way it works though. Ace bike. I’ll live with the hour re fill regime. Thanks.

Now my TR 280i is up to full running order I’ve been using it. I’m getting 75 mins to a tank. Does this sound right? Seems a thirsty beast to me but my last bike was a frugal rev3 200.

Mine was a tricky one to start even with the easy start. I tweaked the throttle rest pin a touch and now it starts easily with one kick when warm and will tick over in gear with the clutch pulled in. Ideally id like to get the ecu/fi set up properly and not my bodge. Anyone know anyone with the right software in or near South Wales?

Anyone ever find an easy way to adjust shock rebound? I can get to the comp adjustment ok but rebound has proved a non starter from the side. Do I need a long bubble end Allen key and do it from above with the spark plug removed? All sorted. It did need a long ball end for rebound adjustment and a cut down one for compression. No longer quite so crashy.

Thank you!!

Changing my fork oil soon for new 5wt as per Birketts info. 160mm air gap. Is this measured with the springs in or out? My plan was strip, clean and re bush/seal the forks. Screw the bottom bolts in to seal and then fill and work the cartridge to purge air. Before the springs go in I’ll measure and set air gap to 160mm- does this sound about right?

My graphics are all peeling off with old age. Anyone know of anywhere I can get a fresh set? Ive replaced all the bushes. Shock soon to be re built. No engine issues I’m aware of or electrical gremlins. Bikes got the easy start mod and starts great. Anything I should look out for? Bikes still on original chain and sprockets so not done tons of work. Thanks.

I’m using silkolene RG2. Thank you lotus. Mines circlips. I’m going to pick up the bushes and fit them. I love the bike and apart from slack in the bushes all I need is a new air filter and the restoration is complete. Even fitted my own home brew easy start kit.

Thank you lotus. Mines circlips. I’m going to pick up the bushes and fit them. I love the bike and apart from slack in the bushes all I need is a new air filter and the restoration is complete. Even fitted my own home brew easy start kit.

This ones a 2011 so the earliest version.

I can’t get the link to work? Does anyone know the part numbers off hand? I’m thinking I’ll need everything for swingarm and linkage. Ta.

So if I remove the bushes I can take them into the bearing shop to match up?

As it say. I’ve wear in a 2011 linkage. Not stripped nothing yet but what are my options? Top tips on ripping it all apart? Can I use bearings instead of bushes? Am I likely to need pins etc? Do these parts even exist now? If worst comes to the worst, I might see if I can get all the parts re made and to use bearings and seals instead.

I picked up a 2011 tr 280i the other week. I had to do some serious servicing work and it runs sweet and is lovely to ride. It even starts ok but I’m fitting a homemade easy start kit anyway. Its a training toy so not my main ride so I’ll be happy to keep it as they aren’t that common.

Trials boxes just don't see the heat that causes wear and destruction - unless you trail ride them a lot. The Putoline light gear oils and Nano trans are opposite ends of the spectrum in costs but both look after the clutch and gears. ATF to my knowledge is not actually a gear oil as such but more of a hydraulic fluid. Why put that in you pride and joy when a gear oils looks after gears and the clutch?

Make sure you lay the bike over to tip the swarf out the handlebar after drilling. Be careful you don't scratch anything or drill on an angle. You don't want a bar snapping when you land of a big drop!

Sounds like needle sticking open or floats sticking to me. Time to take a look I reckon.

You're bang on BillyT. All kick starts need a good push not a kick. Only crossers seem to actually be kick start in reality. Four strokes also like a good long push with the leg as well and like you say it can't kick back if a full push has been given. One thing that probably is not helping the thread starter is they know have "the fear" and are not actually using a nice technique - very common when you see people with big kick start four strokes. They get a kick back from using a tired leg then end up being more timid and it makes the problem worse. Once you can do the long push down you can adjust the speed of the push so that it turns the motor over just right and boom! It will fire.