pindie

Are all Evo seats the same? Mines a 2012, no more stock available apparently. Mine cracked and held on with various cable ties but I’d like to tidy it up. will later years fit? I’d then benefit from the air filter access hole on the later models?

They will definitely be bike fork specific ones.

Superb. Thank you.

As it says. I’d like to strip and rebuild my forks and fit new SKF seals. Rather than strip everything and then order once measured can someone let me know the dimensions of the parts? I will be ordering from a supplier who doesn’t do bike model specifically but can match up dimensions no problem. thanks in advance.

Did you clean the pilot with compressed air?

USWE make a nice compact no bounce camelback type thing and also make a bum bag type one. Very solid looking bits of kit. I’ve not used one though. You’ve only got to lose a small amount of fluids before fine motor tuning is affected. This wrecks concentration and balancing quickly. Ideally, hydrating the days before an event is key, then just maintain levels during the day. Unfortunately beer doesn’t help one bit. God knows I’ve tried to make it work but it always makes you have a bad race/competition if on the lash the day before.

Seems like establishing what’s rich and lean will help too. You might have an overly rich pilot jet if air screw (small flat head brass one) is set right. I’d try the hotter 5 plug like has been suggested. This alone may cure it. If not, open the air screw (not idle) to two turns out. This allows more air to come in at idle. What happens? Does it die as you open the throttle with a lean bog? You can open the AS to around 2.5. Just for reference these are what each carb part is doing if you don’t know. Marking the grip and the cable body on the throttle will help you ID which bit is wrong. Pilot jet. Idle. Along with AS. Needle diameter. 1/8th throttle. Needle clip/taper. 1/4 to 3/4 throttle. Main jet. 3/4 to full throttle. You can’t cure an idle/initial throttle issue by changing main jets and clips. Clip might help a bit but it’s too far into the throttle range really. Winter settings use more fuel, summer is leaner more often than not. I’d be surprised if this isn’t just plug heat range and pilot/air screw related.

Did you ever find out what broke up inside to puncture the case?

Mines missing. I can see a helicoil in the swingarm. I find trees or rocks as a stand.

Let’s hope it helps! I’m glad you have it sorted.

I’ve a 2012 with a semi broke rear mudguard. Held together with cable ties. Will all later model seat/mudguards work? 2012s appear to have sold out.

I smear the outer surface or the internal surface with anti seize copper grease. I’ve no idea if this is a good idea but I’ve never had a stuck bearing yet! Don’t try and grease a bearing with copper grease. Only decent waterproof grease is suited to that role.

That’ll be cheaper than a swing arm! you can use threaded bar, nuts and washers as a homemade bearing puller. A bit fiddly though.

Priceless

I’m not an ATF fan. It was terrible in my Rev3, caused drag and was snatchy. I changed to Nanotrans GP and after the first change after a couple days use (I used just 500ml so two changes out a bottle) it was fixed. No drag. Smooth action. I’ve been using it in any 2t bike since. Always the same result. No clutch issues. It ain’t cheap per litre but it cheaper and easier than changing clutches if you ask me.

That’s top Italian design! per litchi de la “cork stuffers”?

Have you tried a new plug? It sounds like others have said, lean/clogged pilot circuit but if you’ve not tried a different plug it is worth a shot.

Probably not but worth checking it’s not just play in the floating front disc bobbins you are feeling, especially if you are feeling for movement with the front brake on and rocking back and forth.

My 2012 300 had a white throttle and 11/41 gearing. It was a hateful beast. Fitted a black tube along with 10/42 sprockets and now it’s great, especially in the soft map. No more coming home to repair the bike and stitch flesh back together.

Try taking mc lid off. Remove slave from motor and push piston in with your thumb. Then re try bleeding. If the slave has air in it the mc piston doesn’t create enough fluid movement to overcome the air space in the slave. Pushing the slave piston back in pushes any air into the narrower pipe and it can then be bled normally just by the mc piston doing the work. Doing this method has meant I have never had to try and back bleed clutches or brakes. It works every time. Worth a shot.

Good stuff. Glad you are sorted.

You haven’t dropped the spindle on it’s end and collapsed the first bit of thread have you?

I’m guessing it all came apart ok? Are the threads clean, spindle and fork lower? None damaged? All in line? Try cleaning out with a toothbrush and brake cleaner. Inspect closely. Then try again. If that works great. If not check exactly what you are doing. Smear grease on threads and any clamping surface when doing final install.

The float isn’t stuck down? The little support pin can slip sideways when on the side revving it’s tits off. Ask me how I know?? Lightly nip the pin where it sits in the castings with side cut pliers. It won’t move again then. Float issues banished.

I’m thinking the right leg is the rebound one. It’s only controlled on the rebound hence it compresses easy. They feel very different to each other. Not like normal forks that do both jobs. Spindle will go through. I put my foot under the wheel to hold it level and you then jiggle the spindle in. Don’t panic. Breathe. Don’t get a hammer! It’s not needed. It goes in from the throttle side of the bike!!!