pindie

On a 4t? Isn’t that a fuel screw instead? Therefore works the opposite way around to a 2t air screw on a carb. On a 4t you close (clockwise) for leaner and open (anti-clockwise) for richer fuel screw settings. If you didn’t know this you could be accidentally closing the fuel screw thinking it’s getting richer but it’s not. This would then cause much head scratching and a feeling you need different pilots etc or any other perceived issue.

Just done my 2012 Evo mains. The old were metal sealed. New ones in Beta packets from a dealer have rubber seals. The case seals were also full rubber. Working fine at the moment now back together. Sounds very smooth. I removed the flywheel weight as it caused the bike to run on too much for my liking. I had to change gearing and throttle also to a slow one. I heated the bearings to fit back to the crank with a hot air gun with it angled not directly into the seal. Lots of little rests and misting the seal with iced water spray seemed to work- I love the top hat idea though. Once hot, drop case on before heat drops, bolts in and tighten evenly and quickly. Seemed easy enough. Worst bit was getting the shift drum and selector wheel all in place nicely. My 300 was nasty Before. Didn’t enjoy it before. It had a 0.5 base gasket. I replaced it with a 1mm gasket. Much smoother power now and more enjoyable. I’m also an older rider, mainly enduro. Trials just helps development/maintainability of skills. Probably.

Go onto the lampkins beta website. Look in the info section and you can get pdf manual downloads there. If not try the beta main website or beta USA. Are you sure it’s an Evo? I thought they came later. I had an 07 rev 3. I wonder if you also have a rev 3?

Awesome. Job done.

Crud on the mating surface of the fork? Correct bolt torque?

Just a thought but if you keep filling it back up how much will it take each time? You might be putting more in than required and it’ll then spit out the excess. It should then not spit any more out. A few ml excess will be enough for it to push it out. Only fill with wheel up in air too.

You can access the air screw from the left of the bike easy enough. Just look through above the case and pipe and you’ll see it. A long flat head screw driver helps. Sounds like you have gone in the right direction. As the weather warms up and air becomes less dense you’ll probably find it gets better as the setting you have now will be made to feel slightly richer by higher air ambient temperature even though you change nothing more with physical settings. Come winter you generally need more fuel going in as the air is denser.

Does it bog if the choke is on when cold starting? Could be you are right on the edge of lean when cold, no choke. It then bogs if you ask for throttle. However, once warmed up the motor doesn’t need as much fuel so you don’t get the bog. Don’t forget you have an air screw. You could try 1/8th to a 1/4 turn in (richer) to see if it helps?

I’ve just gone through my 2012 front to back. I bought it on its visual condition (clean, dent/bash free). It needed tlc on bearings/grease. First job was simple stuff like wheel bearings, pads, chain and sprockets etc. These are high wear items and replaced anyway on even newer bikes if used a lot, plus a throttle cable as the old one snapped. Next was steering head and linkage strip, clean, re grease. Forks rebuilt. Clutch works fine so far but the main bearings went very noisy when it was stuck on its side revving it’s head off on top of a bank whilst I was at the bottom in a stream. Ever since then I had concerns. So....I stripped the motor and replaced them. Piston and cylinder looked good so went back in. All easy enough to do and without special tools. Just took my time. Care and read up/watched you tube how to vids. Now it feels great. No rattles or rumbles. Everything works like new and will hopefully stay that way for some time. Doing all this would cost a fortune in a shop but to do yourself is free plus parts. All parts have been genuine. Cost around £300 I reckon but the bikes so much better for it and feels like a much newer model. Get jobs done on lockdown and be ready for when you can ride properly again!!!!!!!

I did a full strip with new seals and a mega wash out on my 2012. I have 320-330ml left in the bottle so what thall1 is saying must be about right. I used silkolene 7.5wt. Forks feel much better than they did on 5wt. I had the comp clicker on max on 5wt, now it’s nearer the middle of its range. Mine were 55mm RH, and 125mm LH. Now no leaks, lovely and plush but with control. Now I just need to find the skills to use it properly. ?

I was going to trade my 2012 Evo 300 for something else as the main bearings were a touch rough, I was accepting a lower value because of them. The virus lockdown meant I had a project - sort it out! I have now replaced the mains. It’s running much more quiet and smooth. It’s no longer as angry either as I put a 1mm base gasket in. It took six hours and £200 in parts and gaskets. The old bearings spin and spin now out the motor. They are dry and worn badly. I’m no factory technician so I now need to see what happens next but it’s had an hours use and is silky smooth and I’m happy. I still fancy an Evo factory 125 or Vertigo 200 though....

Cheers guys. All sounds fair. Buy. Check. Add if required. Normal approach regardless of manufacturer. I’d happily pay £150 more to have a bike arrive with grease nipples all in one place like on certain machines. It’d make life bloody easier.

I was thinking which manufacturer has the best attention to detail when assembling steering head, swingarm and linkage bearings? When I’ve had new enduro bikes in the past I’ve always stripped and greased them from new as nearly all (KTMs) came with barely any grease in these bearings which in turn means short service life and replacement parts. I was just wondering out of Beta or Vertigo, who’s bikes come best prepped from the factory?

Dixie, did you get a Vertigo 200? Anyone got one? Can you spill the beans on it?

I’m dreaming of a new ride. Beta Evo factory 125 or 200 or Vertigo 200. Obvious differences in costs, equipment and bling levels. I’m just wondering which one comes from the manufacturer best prepared? I’m happy to strip a new bike to grease things properly but does either manufacturer add enough grease during assembly to make this not needed? I just want to ride it!!!

Good advice^^^^

Smaller motors need bigger jets as the “pull” for fuel from the cylinder isn’t as much as it is on a bigger motor. Basically a 125 piston going down does not create as much suction as a 300 piston going down the cylinder.

I agree. Rich on the pilot/air screw setting. Not necessarily a bad thing. It’ll be smooth and torquey. Once started without choke does it run ok? Mine is rich. I start with no choke then if need be lift the choke plunger a bit but without it clicking fully on. As soon as it seems happy I release choke fully and ride. Thinking about it I can’t remember the last bike I had that needed the choke every time to start it? If it’s starting and then runs sweet once warm I’d not worry.

Are you using the choke? That can sometimes make it rev pretty high. Have you tried starting without choke?

2020. I had a go on a 2017 factory 125. Loved it. Seemed really easy to do anything on as long as you don’t mind stretching the wire a bit. A lot more involving. I’m just now wondering chopping my 300 in for a 2020 factory 125.

Anyone got one yet? Any reviews/thoughts?

I’ve had a rev3 200. Loved it. Currently got a tamed Evo 300 2012. It’s fine chugging about and doing plodding basic stuff. I find it gets lairy when I try to up the game and once wound up you need a level of skill I don’t have. I’ve been looking at other options like another 200 but ended up trying a 125 factory the other day. It was ace. Everything was easy on it. Mega light. Surprisingly torquey. You can run 3rd gear no bother. I’m now very tempted. I enjoy a few more revs so the 125 seems a great choice for me. See if you try one.

I’ve an Evo 300. Even with a slow throttle it can get lairy if you try things above your skill level, it’s fine plodding about but anything a bit more exciting and it’s too much for me. Before it I had an Ossa TR280i. Superb bike, really easy to ride but rare and if you broke anything game over so avoid!!! Before the Ossa I had a rev3 200. It was superb. I found I could try/attempt more adventurous stuff without damage to the bike or bleeding. The 300 holds me back as I’m only very part time trials. I ride enduro more than anything else so the 300 was a bad choice. I’m thinking of trading it for a tidy 125. The 125 should only teach you good habits and revving all weeners to get them going is good fun.

They used to do the tube on its own for enduro bikes but stopped. Now you can only buy the whole assembly. I’m guessing this is the same for trials bikes also. Motion Pro do a tube on its own that fits enduro throttles. Maybe they do a trials one to? Worth a look. It might be just worth ringing Lampkins up and asking them. They will know for sure and post it to you the same day.

Easiest and cheapest stuff by miles is laundry sanitizer. From the supermarket. I use a large builders tub, fill with cold water and the sanitizer. Dunk/rinse all my kit through it. Rinse. Leave to dry. Everything smells like new again after. I do the same for my enduro helmet and body armour.