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Send the unsold 09s to the U.S., we haven't had new Montesas here since 2007. There are buyers waiting here and pent up demand.
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So perhaps you could share your source(s).
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I'll second this request.
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USD forks are more rigid than conventional forks, until you put a fork brace on the conventional forks. There is no good way to put a fork brace on the USD. The fork brace is also a very convenient place to mount a fender. With 40mm tobes The Ossa fork may not need a fork brace. On an MX bike that doesn't use a fork brace or low fender the rigidity is better for the weight of the fork with the USDs.
I have a Rev with USDs and I find them less prone to rock damage than conventional forks, although I have damaged tubes on both types of fork. Fork seals on the USDs last about 5-10 times longer than on the conventionals.
There are clearly advantages and disadvantages to both types of fork. I would not write off the USDs until we see how the whole package works. I congratulate Ossa for not using the cookie cutter approach in designing their bike and hope they will use solid engineering rather than kneejerk public opinion to spec their bikes.
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Could please explain the reasoning behind your statement?
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Hi Steve, It's Jeff from INTA
I'm not sure if we've met. I see you're on our mailing list and I know we have friends in common. If you like the auto clutch idea there is a guy, I think he is Idaho, who will custom build an auto clutch for most any bike if you send him your clutch. A friend of mine has one on his dual sport, I can get you the name if you can't find it. It may even be the same guy who built your KTM clutch.
When I started riding Trials I rode the intermediate class with a guy who was missing his right leg. He rode without his prosthesis. His rides were mostly either cleans or fives, but he had quite a few cleans. I believe he was from Oregon. His dog ran the loop with him. As far as I remember he rode without a rear brake.
The JT35s I rode had kind of a rough erratic bottom end. Perhaps another bike with a smoother bottom end, not prone to stalling, might feel more comfortable with little or no rear brake.
Hope to see you in the sections soon.
Jeff
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Thanks Jordan80.
It's a good thing that the Montesa will last you a long time. It's obvious you don't like acquireing Trials bikes!
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Okay, can anyone on that side of the pond come up with an email address for Jon Bliss/Cotswold? I'd sure like to contact him.
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Jordan 80, thanks for posting. Any chance you can get me an e mail address for Jon Bliss? That would save me from having to get up in the middle of the night to call him, as well as an expensive phone call from the states.
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Why not the Michelin tube type?
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I have a 199A and am faced with the same decision. Hopefully we can get some good input here.
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New secondary coil (high tension) + one kick = running Bultaco.
I've never seen a coil fail like that before. The cracked condenser case was a red herring, it worked fine. I suppose when one rides thirty year old motorcycles surprises should'nt be surprising.
Next event, a week from Sunday. We'll be there.
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http://www.power-craft.co.jp/trial/climb_f...mb_flywheel.htm
Any body know anything about this? I'm having a hard time translating the Japanese.
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Has anyone figured out how to add flywheel effect to a 4RT?
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I got the .36 mfd condenser, installed it, and as was predicted it made no difference. Today I will order a secondary coil. I'm not very confident but I'm reduced to guessing what to replace next.
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I have the low gearing now. It made a world of difference for me. I have a slow turn throttle on and I have the restrictors in as well. The restrictors seem to soften the low end power a little, but they seem to compromise the high rpm power even more. Ideally I'd like the softest possible low end and all the top end I can get (let the wrist decide). Would a PTB and no restrictors make me happy?
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Yes I'm kicking it. It never took more than two kicks before. Push starting a Trials bike is much more dificult than an enduro bike because of the high pressure caused by the low exhaust port height, and heavy flywheels. Try it on your rev and you'll see what I mean.
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I've thought of this. My timing light is at another house 200 miles away right now, but I'll get it. The big question is what do I do if I find that the timing is off?
I have approximated the location of the timing window and eyeballed the spark at the spark plug. To my eyes it looks about the right time but I would like to verify it with a light. And yes the flywheel key is fine.
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Thanks for the reply. I assure you I went through the simple circles before I entered the complicated circles I'm in now.
I believe (I'm not sure I know anything anymore) I've eliminated the source coil as a possible problem. It was testing open because of minor damage at the connection to the black wire at the points, easily repaired. I ordered a new one anyway because the wiring method doesn't match anyone's description of what it should be. Upon testing the new source coil and the existing one in the bike I find that although they are wired differently they are functionally identical.
The new coil is exactly as you describe with a red, green and black wire. The existing coil has only a black and a green, BUT the green is functionally identical to the red (1.6 ohm resistance) on the new coil and the old coil is grounded directly to the stator plate. The only different effect this has is that I can't set timing with a test light unless I isolate the source coil from the stator plate. I can however check point opening with an ohm meter since the resisitance of the primary coil can be measured when the points open ( 2.1 ohm). Grounding the green wire on the existing coil makes the spark at the spark plug very weak and erratic.
I'll describe the wiring of this bike in hopes that someone can give me more input or suggestions. Keep in mind that this bike ran well for several years wired this way.
There is no terminal block. The wire from the points runs to a large Mallory brand condenser (.36 mfd) mounted to the frame next to the secondary coil. For some reason there was a parallel brown wire fitted from the points to the condenser (I've removed it). The green wire from the source coil, as well as the yellow wire from the lighting coil are taped off and insulated. The small wire from the secondary coil is connected to the condenser along with the black wire from the points along with a wire to a grounding kill switch.
The bike died while riding. It always had spark at the spark plug. When I removed the condenser I found the case was cracked, making it suspect. I replaced the condenser with a common automotive one rated at .18-.25 mfd. I get a healthy looking spark at the spark plug but the bike will do no more than pop.
At this point I have ordered another Mallory condenser rated at .36 mfd, although I've been told by many people that that will make no difference, I don't know what else to do.
Any and all input is greatly appreciated. I can't help but think that there is something I'm missing.
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I'd like to have gotten a Beta 4t but here in the states they are the rarest and most expensive of the lot. I recently bought an unused 06 4RT and the low end power is a bit much for me (I'm 52 years old and ride the 3rd of 5 classes). Can anyone confirm and/or give details of the above mentioned camshaft changes/ power smoothng? I'm having a hard time adapting to the hard hitting power.
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Well I've struck out at getting a source coil in time for the weekend. Oddly, I'm quite dissapointed that I have to ride the modern bike now. At this point I clearly have an open source coil. It did not test that way when I started my troubleshooting and it shows no signs of damage. I hope thats my only problem. Next week I'll order a source coil. condenser and crank seals. Hopefully I'll be back on two shocks soon. I'll let y'all know.
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I've tried it several times. Sometimes I get a pop or two sometimes not and yes before the bike died it was a consistent two kicks cold, one kick warm starter. Also I've not mentioned that there is no rust and very little dirt under the mag cover. Today I will double check the primary coil and try to find another one to install. I found a spec. for the primary coil on another forum of 2.5 ohms(Thanks to Bultaco 49). This seems low to me can someone confirm it?
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Gomey68- I'm Jeff from Spokane I ride a couple of PST events a year. Last one was the PNTA at Gold bar, and yes the flywheel key is fine.
I've tried the fuel down the plug hole, didn't help. My method of checking crank seals is to remove the carb and hold my hand against the intake boot while cranking. The compression stroke pulls my hand hard aginst the rubber boot and holds it there and the first part of the power stroke, before the intake port closes blows my hand off. I don't mind changing crank seals but I don't feel they are my immediate problem.
Stork955- You must have much better electronics stores in Australia than we have here. A request for a .36 uf capacitor here will most often get you no more than a blank stare. I've always used uf for microfarad since that is how I've seen them marked but in the auto parts catalogs here they are using mfd.
Yes I've got the rotation correct and I do have the muffler removed.
So now for the latest. I decided to rewire the ignition as it has been redone in an unusual manner, (but it ran fine). While I was doing this the primary coil went open (over 2k ohms)and has stayed that way! So maybe this is good and I had a partial or intermittent problem there before, or maybe my handleing of the assembly caused the failure and I still have the original problem to deal with. In either case I will try to find a replacement. Can someone tell me the test spec. for the primary coil, so I can at least make sure I put in a good one?
Thanks for all the input.
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I just got off the phone with Mallory. A tech identified the old condenser as their part # 25010, which is of course, no longer available. The #36 on the bottom indicates .36 mfd. They do have a current condenser with that rating #28005a. I'll try to find one.
He told me that the 25010 was popular with bike guys and that it was common for the case to crack and leak the fluid out. He said the bike guys thought that the larger condenser made the bikes easier to start.
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