motovita

That statement seems odd to me. I always think that trials is about me mastering the sections and I want to ride the most challenging sections within my capabilities. The only disadvantage I see to riding intermediate lines on a vintage bike is that some of the riders may resent it when you outscore them on their new bikes.

Nice, the bike appears to have a non standard airbox. Is that a common mod? Can anyone tell me the details of the conversion?

Kirk to engineering, Scotty I need more power!!! But captain if I give her any more she'll seize up tighter than a Drillthrall's sphyncter.

Rising costs are a fact of life, we all need to get used to it. Let's all make sure that our events are worth the cost of participation. I've been very disappointed to travel to an event, pay entry and membership fees and then ride a poorly prepared and poorly run event. As prices rise it's more important than ever to provide value for the costs that we as riders are paying.

I would prefer to ride vintage events under the rules that prevailed when my Bultaco was current, but I wonder if no stop is really that big of a deal. I mostly ride my vintage bike in modern events,due to a lack of vintage events,and frankly if I've stopped in a section I've done myself no favors. Most likely I'm paddling away from whatever blunder I've comitted and will be lucky to get out with a three anyway. "Stopping and bopping" on a vintage bike just isn't realistic for the vast majority of us. As small as trials competition is in the U.S. it seems likely that that many riders and observers will participate in both modern and vintage events so the closer we align the two the easier it will be on both the riders and observers.

OK now I've found a 183. I can see that the airbox, swing arm and frame/skidplate are different than my 199A, what about the engine/gearbox, exhaust, wheels and forks?

I don't have any hub advice for you but I'd like to hear about your wheel build. I've laced a Morad tubeless rim to a late model Yamaha drum hub and am going to test it this weekend. The build wasn't as easy or satisfying as I had hoped so I'd like to hear your story.

Ok, to make a short story long, some of us learned to ride shifting with our right foot (Bultaco in my case). When the world standardized shifting on the opposite side it was sometimes referred to as "wrong side shift" (opposite of right is wrong, get it?). The point of my failed humor is that it seems silly to me to consider starter placement a major factor in selecting which bike to ride. It obviously is very important to you for whatever reason, so you should select accordingly.

It's thanks to whiners like you that we all have to shift on the wrong side now .

I'd like to have an electric bike to ride in a heated arena while the snow is pileing up outside.

Are you calling us short guys cheap?

I would think that would be to measure the timing. If you just mark your starting point (so you can go back and start over) and move the plate in small increments you should be fine.

When Gas Gas introduced the Pro model in 02 the word in the USA was that the TXT would continue to be available for club level riders at a lower cost. Within a year or two the novice class was full of Pro models so I think Gas Gas abandoned the idea of providing a club level bike and just sold the market what they wanted, whether it was in their best interest or not. I can't blame them for that. Now I regularly see beginning riders quit Trials after a few months because they can't control the pro level bikes that they were sure they needed. So I think rider education and carefull section design might help the market demand more versatile, durable bikes. Making the pros ride bikes that bear some resemblance to a regular motorcycle might help as well.

Light, strong, cheap, pick any two.

[quote name='gasgas249uk' 2- Steel does the job at a better price and when the bikes a few years old and you want to weld some new footpegs on , or mend a crack , you can doing yourself with a cheap arc or mig welder. You will be quite a good welder in a few years when you are repairing the current thin wall steel tubed frames with a cheap arc welder. Has any body here dented or crushed an aluminum frame? How about steel? I think the current superlight steel frames should be considered disposable, needing periodic replacement, like the bicycle frames they resemble.

It would also make riding a Trials bike more like riding a motorcycle and increase the versatility of a Trials bike.

I too am quite satisfied with my 4RT and I don't need a new bike. But I tested a 300 4T EVO and now I want one.

Maybe thats the case for you wealthy Aussies, but here in the USA $1000. for a competetive product will buy a lot of market share.

If you pull in the clutch lever and push the kick lever you will see that the kick lever definitely transmits through the clutch. Sure there are better carbs than old Amals (or Bings) but if your carb is in serviceable condition there's no reason not to use it.

Remember that you don't have primary kickstart. You may be feeling the clutch slipping.

I have the Rekluse Core EXP clutch on my T-Ride and I would say it is in no way suitable for Trials as it disengages at low speed. I've not heard of a trials kit for the T-Ride but I'd be very interested.

I very much doubt you can ride faster on your Trials bike suspension than T-Ride suspension. The T-Ride will feel like a "big lump" compared to your trials bike though.

I think of my T Ride as essentially a small WR 250F. It's much closer to an Enduro bike than a Trials bike. The front end is steep and would likely be twitchy at higher speeds. but at trail speeds it's not been a problem.

I once had a Pursang that did the same thing when new. It was leaking around the primary side crank seal, through porous flaws in the seal holder. It was a small leak and I raced the bike for half a season before I figured it out.

You have at least one local dealer that I know of, http://mossyrocktrials.com/ and I rode an event in Butte in June.