grib

If you have changed the pilot jet you will need to re set the idle screws.

I wouldn't be surprised if you find the 55 pilot too big, probably why it sounds dull and lumpy. I would start with the 36 or maybe a 40 and adjust the pilot screw as it says in section 3.4 of the Dellorto tuning guide http://www.ducatimeccanica.com/dellorto_guide/dellorto.html then take it from there. I think you should get someone who knows what they are listening for to check your engine noise - it shouldn't sound like it is about to explode.

I would say don't be too concerned about the brand of oil you put in; if it is 75W to 80W and is meant for trials gearboxes it will be fine, if you are not sure then just ask in one of your local shops, you can fine tune your preference further down the road. I think the most important thing you need to do is ride your bike.

Silkolene light gear oil and Putoline light gear oil are both good. Of the two I prefer the Putoline, but it depends what is available near you; I haven't used other gear oils such as Motul or Rock Oil but only because my local shops don't sell them. ATF is OK and certainly reduces drag but it can make the clutch a bit grabby. When you put the clutch back together the arrow on the pressure plate should be aligned with the dimple on the clutch hub.

Twisting the throttle with the engine off should have no effect - there is no accelerator pump on your carb. I think you probably need to look at the needle valve and/or floats (not needle jet).

If you buy Dominos (which I would highly recommend) make sure you get the forged levers with the two piece clamp with the screws underneath (http://www.domino-gr...x?idmaster=2187); you can get cast Domino levers with a one piece clamp which are nowhere near as nice (http://www.domino-group.com/en/catalogue/leverAssemblies_Detail.aspx?idmaster=2189).

Bill is very nice and extremely helpful; a very useful source of information. If you had to flood the carb to get it started then it is likely the float height is wrong or the needle valve is partially blocked. Carbs are not the easiest thing to sort out but they're not a black art either; this is a link to a Dellorto set up guide http://www.ducatimeccanica.com/dellorto_guide/dellorto.html and there is a more detailed guide to download here: http://www.dellorto.it/supdoc.asp (Carburettor manual(english version)). If were you I would do basic things like making sure all of the jets are clear, the float height is right, and the needle valve (as opposed to needle jet) works correctly, and take it from there.

I have just read through some of your other posts; I think you are talking about the exhaust front pipe when you say manifold. I expect Bill thought you were talking about the inlet manifold/reed block (as I did) which is why he has given you a square gasket with 4 holes in it. I think you need someone who knows what they are doing standing next to you to help you set your bike up.

FM363 should be a 1987 243, which would have a round two bolt inlet manifold but it is air cooled. Are you sure you have a K-Roo?

There is very little difference, some good information here: http://fantic240pro.pagesperso-orange.fr/ukindex.htm

There isn't two separate models, there were minor changes through the model life but that is all. The 240 Professional parts list I have is dated October 1981.

I used Scotchbrite on my 240 tank which was discoloured white when I bought it, finished it off with autoglym vinyl & rubber care; still looks good 6 years later.

I would suggest putting the rear hub in the swinging arm with the spacers, and putting a straight edge on the machined surface the sprocket sits on, then measure from that to the centre of the swinging arm pivot. Do a similar thing at the front measuring from a suitable datum to the centre of the bottom yoke.

Hi Paul, I torque the crankcases to 10Nm, I don't use any sealant on the gasket just make sure everything is VERY clean. There is a photo of my kickstart shaft before I took it out for the first time here: http://s8.postimage.org/iyf83asd1/DSCN0618.jpg (and yes the crank was scrap). Have you got the owners manual scans from Bob Wrights website? (http://s292.photobucket.com/albums/mm22/fantictrials/fantic240manual/) and the engine diagram from Bill Pye's site (http://www.nickandkaren.co.uk/frankfieldfantic.co.uk/Fantic%20240%20Professional.pdf)

My clutch arm is standard and I find it works fine with one finger. The most important thing I think is the cable; I use a Venhill cable which I think has a nylon lining, I also use Domino forged levers (don't get caught out and buy the cast ones as I did once - they are nowhere near as nice).

I agree, keep the pressure washer for the patio (as long as you don't care about your patio too much).

But if he's a porker and the springs suit him he's saved £25

I agree they are of limited appeal but if the buyer; 1) Wanted or needed to save a few quid, and 2) Is a bit of a porker then he hasn't done too badly.

The listing says they have only been used a couple of times; if its true then it doesn't sound that bad to me, not exactly a bargain but saving a few quid might be important to the person who bought them.

Can anyone tell me what the distance between the swinging arm spindle and the rear wheel spindle is on a 2003 250 pro is please?

Glad to hear you have got it sorted; its unlucky to have two bad coils and, as you say, you should never assume a component is OK - after all assumption is the mother of most f*ck ups.

As far as I know there are only two clutch baskets for Fantics own engines; one is the 240 basket and the other fits all the later bikes right up to a 96 Section, not sure whether the primary drive ratio changed; if so you would need the primary drive pinion to go with the basket.

Bob Wright has put the 240 owners manual here; http://s292.photobucket.com/albums/mm22/fantictrials/fantic240manual/ lots of useful information including jet sizes.

Are the red white and green wires definitely on the correct terminals (rosso, bianco, & verde), and is the HT lead screwed firmly in to the coil? If they are then a new coil is probably the best bet. Unlucky to have two bad ones if thats what it is. Have you checked for continuity between the stator backplate and the frame?

If I use the existing wheels then I would want to get the hubs powder coated and use a tube type front rim - I was hoping to pick up some 2nd hand wheels to make it cheaper for now.