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2016 4rt Sump Gaurd refit

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Hey guys does anyone know a tip to refitting a 4rt sump plate after a service. Not done it yet but worried if I take it off I won't be able to refit as I've read lots of nightmares about it.

 

thanks

Simon

Put the bike on a stand, sandwich loose bashplate in position

Offer bolts, for and aft and loosely enter any that are close to lined up

If you have a couple of bolts lined up and partially tightened up, then manipulate the bashplate, to the ones you need to enter, by leaning your weight on bike & stand, using ratchet straps to help line it up or if it's really bent try to straighten the bash plate up, off the bike with a lump hammer and then offer it back up

It is a cursed thing, at times............I now have a Mitani one and that's not much better

Funnily the TYZ one, never goes out of shape at all and just bolts right up easily

I just did my '17 and it was no problem. I put anti-seize grease on the bolts so there is no corrosion between the steel and aluminum.

Like Johnny said. 
But when the bash plate is all out of whack, and you (or someone more capable) can't get in shape enough so the bolts go in fairly easy, don't try to force the bolts in, you don't want to damage the threads in the frame. 
Better get a new bash plate in that case.

I bought much longer bolts for my bike. Being longer you can reach the holes easier, start to tighten the bolts up so the plate gets close to the correct position, then undo one bolt at a time and refit the original shorter bolts to tighten up.

18 hours ago, si27 said:

Hey guys does anyone know a tip to refitting a 4rt sump plate after a service. Not done it yet but worried if I take it off I won't be able to refit as I've read lots of nightmares about it.

 

thanks

Simon

I have used the same system since '05 and never had a problem and yes mine gets plenty bent. I just use a good G cramp, prior to removing the plate I slip the G cramp over the bash plate at the rear and tighten up onto the cross frame (you can't get exactly central but doesn't matter) then slacken the front mount bolts about 5mm and  then the undo the rear bolts and remove. Slacken the clamp off and remove front bolts. To replace, reverse process. With the clamp removed, start the front bolts and screw in about 3-5mm, then lift the rear of the bash plate, slip the G Cramp over as before and then tighten the cramp until the plate is close enough to start the rear mounting screws. When all well started tighten all screws and remove clamp. Believe me it takes longer to type than to fit the plate!! my G cramp is a 6 inch clamp. The reason I use the clamp when removing the bash plate is that it is easy to rip the last couple of threads out of the frame if you just undo the screws when the bash plate is badly sprung.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

Thanks I'll get a G- clamp

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