November 10, 20196 yr For sure what about Trotters burn in the 6 day's how big is that ? did that in the 70s.
November 11, 20196 yr 20 hours ago, 2stroke4stroke said: We all had to ride 3 foot steps in the Seventies. Eee, it were ard back then...
November 11, 20196 yr Author On 11/8/2019 at 3:21 PM, b40rt said: Anything on YouTube, I'd be interested in seeing the sections. There are wota (wisconsin observed trials association)videos on YouTube.They are mostly the intermediate lines as the the guy filming them is in intermediate.There should also be some of the gate(goat) trials I did at Phil Smages place a couple weeks ago.Noel Smage tried my TY out at Smagical Rock and it was funny. After riding it he came back and said he thought the bike would suck lol.He was surprised at how well the bike worked.
November 11, 20196 yr Author On 8/16/2019 at 10:42 AM, majesty said: I fitted Yamaha DT/MX hubs to my Majesty, initially because they were the closest visually to Mick's works hubs at the time, but I was pleasantly surprised how much better the brakes were compared to the original hubs. That is a sweet ride.
November 11, 20196 yr Author On 11/9/2019 at 1:17 PM, metisse said: Why dont you just stick a disc on the front of it if your feeling a little ' Toni Bou ' that will stop you even quicker. I am impressed you can get up a three foot step..... It can get ugly fast.Need new handlebars because of it at moment.There are only a couple of those steps up,s in the clubs meets which is a good thing.Most of the meets have a lot of logs and less than 2 foot steps.There is a lot of technical on steep camber hills which ty works good on.A friend rides a 1980 fantic 300 and easily out rides the modern bikes.He does stunt shows on a modern bike but loves riding twin shock in competition.He is a perfect example that it is the rider not the bike.
November 23, 20196 yr On 4/17/2019 at 10:47 PM, Junglejeff said: I need to plug some holes on the motor from removing oil injection. The flywheel cover and pump cover were damaged and welded badly so going to grind them out,reweld and clean up. Just noticed your pen / screwdriver holder...Lycoming or Continental? Edited November 23, 20196 yr by pmk
November 23, 20196 yr On 8/18/2019 at 1:33 PM, majesty said: Apologies, I should have made clear that the hubs I used were single cam, standard actuation When we built my buddies 72 MAR, many changes were made, including installing Yamaha wheels and brakes that are period correct. I have ridden his MAR and it will stop, plus has the feel and control pretty close to modern bike disc brake feel.
November 26, 20196 yr Author On 11/23/2019 at 4:51 AM, pmk said: Just noticed your pen / screwdriver holder...Lycoming or Continental? .Lycoming
November 28, 20196 yr On 11/23/2019 at 11:01 AM, pmk said: When we built my buddies 72 MAR, many changes were made, including installing Yamaha wheels and brakes that are period correct. I have ridden his MAR and it will stop, plus has the feel and control pretty close to modern bike disc brake feel. Like the MAR have you a photo of the other side please?
November 29, 20196 yr 9 hours ago, trialsrfun said: Like the MAR have you a photo of the other side please?
November 29, 20196 yr On 11/23/2019 at 9:01 PM, pmk said: When we built my buddies 72 MAR, many changes were made, including installing Yamaha wheels and brakes that are period correct. I have ridden his MAR and it will stop, plus has the feel and control pretty close to modern bike disc brake feel. Thanks PMK that looks great. I'm having a go at guessing which Yamaha the rear hub came from. Being brake and sprocket on the same side I'm thinking late model (post -81) IT175 or YZ125
November 30, 20196 yr On 11/29/2019 at 5:33 AM, feetupfun said: Thanks PMK that looks great. I'm having a go at guessing which Yamaha the rear hub came from. Being brake and sprocket on the same side I'm thinking late model (post -81) IT175 or YZ125 Date codes are 1979, so they comply with available prior to 1980. Parts are 1980 Yamaha, which was available in 1979, keeping the bike legal as a pre 1980 machine with period correct items. Look close at the details required to do this. I had to “C” notch the frame. The entire pedal setup is redeveloped. I have a cable swaging machine to build the rear brake cable. Essentially, there was fabrication time altering the frame, machining time, and fabrication of detail parts including the cable. All this was after getting the much wider wheel into the swingarm while aligning the chainline. Many hours of sorting it out, designing, fabricating, etc., then having hope it would work. We considered many hubs / wheels before even starting. FWIW, both wheels were completely disassembled. Cleaned, polished, hubs painted and modified as needed. Suffice to say, getting the hub in the swingarm was no simple plug and play task. But seems to give a clean look and functions well.
December 1, 20196 yr 20 hours ago, pmk said: Date codes are 1979, so they comply with available prior to 1980. Parts are 1980 Yamaha, which was available in 1979, keeping the bike legal as a pre 1980 machine with period correct items. Look close at the details required to do this. I had to “C” notch the frame. The entire pedal setup is redeveloped. I have a cable swaging machine to build the rear brake cable. Essentially, there was fabrication time altering the frame, machining time, and fabrication of detail parts including the cable. All this was after getting the much wider wheel into the swingarm while aligning the chainline. Many hours of sorting it out, designing, fabricating, etc., then having hope it would work. We considered many hubs / wheels before even starting. FWIW, both wheels were completely disassembled. Cleaned, polished, hubs painted and modified as needed. Suffice to say, getting the hub in the swingarm was no simple plug and play task. But seems to give a clean look and functions well. What is so important about being pre-80?
December 1, 20196 yr 12 minutes ago, feetupfun said: What is so important about being pre-80? It’s an AHRMA rule if the machine were to ever compete in one of those events. Luckily it will not be a part of that organization. Heard from someone that is involved with AHRMA trials, they apparently banned OKO and all carbs unless round slide. Kind of a dumb rule. So now you must spend more money, plus time and have a bike that likely runs worse to compete in an organization that is struggling to get entries. Sounds like a great way to promote vintage entries. Next they will insist on an old school spec tire, the same type tire for everyone.
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