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About dadof2

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  1. The environmental strewardship schemes which MAY prevent motorsport are mainly the result of Natural England (A government quango) and very little to do with Europe. Natural england is staffed by people with very little time for or acceptance of others views that contradict they own agenda. If a farmer knows what he is doing when signing up for a stewardship scheme they can exempt certain parts of their land. Defra has in the past deliberately misinterpreted EU regulations in order to try to prevent off road motorsport. I am in favour of brexit and there is one useful thing about it as regards the above - your MP will no longer be able to pass the buck and blame Europe as they do all too frequently. The stewardship schemes are quite liked by farmers as they give guaranteed income for quite a number of years. If motor clubs want to use the land they are going to have to make it economically attractive to the farmer. At least stewardship schemes are time limited (often 15 to 25 years) whereas SSSI are indefinite with very little chance of being overturned.
  2. Try and find out if the cracked case is magnesium or aluminium. If its aluminium it might be possible to repair by welding.
  3. I think manual says 10w-40. Probably the best choice (bearing in mind the small quantities involved) is a fully synthetic 5w-40. This will virtually eliminate wear. Halfords is not the cheapest source of oil, try Opie, Smith and allan or Eurocarparts (frequent sales with large discount) See and links to other lubrication topics.
  4. Crystal ball anyone?
  5. Either buy a decent tachometer of pop round to your local garage or engine diagnostics centre. They can attach a sensor to the spark plug lead and tell you the exact RPM using a scope. 1800 RPM = 66.6 m/sec sparking intervals (on a 4T). This should take less than 5 minutes.
  6. I would'nt bother about it, the pint at your local pub is likely to have a more significant upgrade from year to year than most trial bikes.
  7. Following is speculation not definite fact. High tickover needed to generate sufficient electric to run EFI. Some say engine can stall unexpectedly if tickover turned down. I rode a friends bike with the tickover turned down and it seemed OK Large bore throttle bodies do not give stable air flow at low RPM. Makes bike performance jumpy / inconsistent during initial throttle opening. A four stroke cannot produce the same power as a two stroke (of same capacity) without having valve timing to suit high RPM power output. Without VVT this high power / high speed valve timing compromises slow speed running. At early stages of 4RT development the works riders favoured engine characteristics similar to 2T this means a 4T has to rev twice as fast as a 2T for the same number of power strokes.
  8. The suggestion I made was a generalisation for bikes of the 1970s where a thickish oil like EP90 or 20W-50 was originally specified. On a gasgas pro or a Sherco switching from thin ATF to thicker light gear oil or 10W-40 generally improves the gearchange. Just out of curiosity what bike are you referring to and from which oil to which oil did you try with unsatisfactory results?
  9. Lube the cable with a mix of gear oil and molyslip. Han the cable up and make a funnel from duct tape so the oil runs through overnight. The creaking is often the cable nipples sticking and rotating in jerks. Lube the nipples, pivot points and actuating spindle with moly paste. Ossa clutches are heavy. The standard clutch springs are quite strong because the clutch has to bite through 20w - 50 oil. You might be able to change to lighter springs using a modern light synthetic or semi synthetic gear oil.
  10. If your 305 has two piston calipers and short pads wavy discs might cause pulsing. Drilling is mainly to reduce weight and improve cooling. I would be inclined to go for round discs with a minimal amount of drilling - just enough to help cleaning and improve wet braking.
  11. I never owned a 247 but did help a couple of others sort gear problems on theirs. I can't remember exactly but parts of the selector in the primary case are pressed together and come loose resulting in a less positive move of the selector forks. TIG welding the selector parts improves this. The gear dogs and holes into which they engage could do with a bit more undercut. The dogs can be done with a diamond file or wet n dry paper on a stick. If the dogs are already rounded off as a result of sliding out of gear they may need a bit of metal adding by tig welding. The holes into which the dogs engage can be undercut with a dremel and drum grinding stone or a bit of dowel in a drill and coarse grinding paste. You also need to check the gear selector forks are not bent or too loose and move the gers fully into position. you can check this movement with the gearbox built up in 1/2 the crankcase. Thinner synthetic gear oil will give better changes and less neutrals than the originally recommended EP90.
  12. Regarding the sump plug. Some riders used to shim the sump guard down a bit. The method I and quite a few others used was to slightly countersink the hole in the sump, then turn Lathe) nearly all the head off the sump plug leaving just a couple of mm to match the countersink in the sump. A screwdriver slot was then cut in the plug with a small diameter slitting disc in a grinder. Plug was then fitted with threadlock or PTFE tape. Some riders had special plugs turned and threaded from the head of a large socket head cap screw.
  13. That looks like a 1972 to 1974 model. The 350s (Actually 310cc) had a red stripe on the tank as well as the green. Easy to measure stroke through plughole and bore through exhaust port ten work CC out. Usual mods were to replace the IRZ? carb with a Mikuni, replace the front mudguard stay with Sammy Miller items, replace the sump plug with a countersunk / headless item and fit a kit with an extra rear wheel bearing to stop the spindle bending.
  14. Malcolm Rathmell (as a ex montesa rider) the owner of MRS the Sherco importers might have or know where a handbook is. Same goes for Sandifords, although no longer Montesa someone may have a handbook laying about or know someone who has one. The trials fraternity generally being a helpful bunch the above would be worth a couple of phone calls just in case
  15. In late 1996 a TYZ was £4,695 and you could only expect to get £200 ish off for a cash / no trade in deal. At about the same time they were selling off the last of the TY pinkies for about £2700 / £2900 A new Gasgas was £4269 but you could get £1,000 off that for cash / no trade in. Regarding the RTL Hondas in the mid 1980s I can remember them being much more expensive than anything else.