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About dadof2

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  1. Nigel me and you are clearly not going to agree on this one and this is my last post on this. Perhaps the best advice to africajohn should have been to bring a few sizes of sprockets and different chain lengths with him and then he can change them if he finds his gearing too far out. I do understand the arguments for a lesser capability rider using first where second is really the correct gear. There are many variables, for example if you are feeling fresh and fit early in the week you may choose to use second in the hope of a clean, when you are knackered at the end of a long day later in the week you may choose first and go for a few well aimed dabs, the aim being just to keep going with minimal effort. I think it was the 349 Monts that had a quick release gearbox sprocket mechanism to enable gearing changes to be made quickly by the rider, In this case the main aim to give the motor an easier time on the roads.
  2. Different maps do affect the noise but only slightly. The best way to reduce noise is to make a small silencer extension that directs the escaping gas downwards. It may not sound much different at the bike but it makes an enormous difference to how far the sound carries. Get some 1.5mm thick aluminium and and bend it to an upside down U shape same as existing silencer. The slot in the bottom only needs to be about 15mm wide. Fold / crimp the end. Fix the other end to the silencer with a large hose clip or cable ties. Needs to extend about 100 mm beyond existing silencer outlet. On a 500 2T MX with this mod I could practice and sheep would continue to graze 60 to 100 yards away, without the mod they would all be cowering in the far corner of the field several hundred yards away.
  3. Store in black plastic bag to keep sunlight off them. Cooler constant temperature is best. Some claim tyre paint contains chemicals that reduce aging. Surprisingly tyres age less when used regularly.
  4. I raced at Cuerdon several times mid to late 1980s. i thinks its now been filled in to for a new motorway / bypass. ACU British championship and support championship riders generally had a number indicating their position in the previous years championship. At AMCA events regular AMCA riders rode with their number for that season. Visitors from other clubs / occasional riders were given a number on the day or allocated a few days before. Stuart Bland of Lancaster or his son may be able to help with the info you need, Hillary may have his contact details.
  5. gizza5 I pretty well agree with all your sentiments in previous post. Getting a bit off topic here but condensing trials bike history into a sentence as follows. Trials started as a means of improving road bikes / every day use bikes whereas now they are single purpose WTC replicas. What is is, and I can't change that but i know trials bikes were more attractive to a larger number of people when they were more multi purpose. When I consider the group of people I now ride with the reason they have trials bikes is to ride trials or play on practice sections. In the 1970s / 80 the group I practiced with had them for many different reasons (farming, commuting, green laning etc) several never rode a single trial but some days or evenings we would do runs of even over 80 miles and comfortably get between filling stations. We also had reasonable working lights, legal speedos etc. I know of 2 major Northern trial where organisers have taken them entirely off road to avoid bike legality problems and although I have not spoken to the organisers of other trials who have done the same I am fairly sure bike legality / suitability has been a factor in their decision. If a manufacturers return to the SSDT gave us suitable bikes and restored some of the longer traditional trials. Before anyone posts an argumentative response please bear in mind I am not claiming I am right and others are wrong. The current sport is what it is. Its just my opinion based on the eras of the sport in which I have taken part.
  6. Quite a few cars run the crankcase a less than atmospheric pressure to reduce oil consumption and the chance of oil leaks.This is done in combination with bleeding crankcase air into the inlet tract before and after the throttle. Engine braking is by vacuum on the top of the piston when the throttle is closed. Altering the crankcase pressure alone would probably not have that much effect on engine braking as the pressure acting on the piston underside on the downstroke would be similar to the pressure on the upstroke, thereby cancelling each other out and giving little or no net braking effect. The piston moves at a leisurely 10 to 15 m/sec so you would not think air resistance would have much effect either. Some cars are fitted with a throttle body damper that slows the rate of final throttle closure, this was done to remove jerkiness which was a problem on early EFI engines. This significantly reduces feeling of too much or sudden engine braking. Another way to reduce engine braking / pumping losses is to have variable valve timing and lift but 4Rts don't have this. I would think the reduced 4RT engine braking is by a combination of reducing mass of air in crankcase, combustion chamber and subtle valve timing and throttle body actuation but its just a guess.
  7. If I had suggested a side valve engine I would have been accused of being a luddite. I reckon side valve would be ideal for 99% of riders but probably could not compete with OHV / OHC at highest level.
  8. I would give this same advice no matter what the make of 125 being contemplated. Try several before you buy and in particular if possible give the bike you intend to buy a test ride that thoroughly tests bottom end / low revs response and pulling power. If you don't like clutching this can be a drawback on any 125. At 70 Kg you are not too heavy for a 125 but the slow response until they get going can be a mark losing irritation.
  9. "I can't comment on Vertigo gearing for the SSDT as I have not ridden one but if I were on say a 300 Beta I would probably gear it up so first was about 1/2 to 5/8 way between standard 1st and 2nd. This would give a decent gear for most sections, a 2 &1/2 gear for faster sections and give the engine an easier time on the road." The above is what I posted previously so it seems two of us agree on something.
  10. Manufacturers should send teams to prove the reliability of their bikes. Modern bikes ideal - look at the list of checks / changes suggested by the factory / importer mechanics prior to recent SSDTs. A decent comfortable seat, adequate radiator and mudguard sizes would be useful for a start. Old bikes had similar problems but the increased complexity and "squeezed in tight" construction of modern bikes makes faults harder to diagnose and fix in the field, especially within the SSDTs time constraints. Note another posters comments on the 1981 Bultaco rider.
  11. "they justifiably want him etc" It seems I am not the only one pondering if the decision was entirely JDs. A general comment - One function of forums such as TC is to illicit speculation and try to find answers, its a pity some don't realise this and resort to insults and accusations.
  12. Sometimes I find TC jams and I get the message - a plug in shockwave flash is not responding. Any comments / fix?
  13. The original question was "Which is the best to ride for a Clubman?" I have a choice of bikes to ride, but I do not get to try all bikes. However when we have our local practice sessions there is a very good range of bikes and rider ability. At these sessions there is a lot of discussion and scrutiny of the bikes. I also observe trials from evening club trials up to national championship level. Based on that my feeling / opinion is that out of the crate the Beta will suit a greater number of riders than other marques. Not that it is a better bike but just that its riding position, suspension, gearing and engine characteristics seem not to need changing whereas I find more owners of other bikes are changing gearing, bars, shocks, compression etc etc. As I said all the modern bikes are pretty close, its just some have odd quirks. I have had many bikes, mainly 300cc and over 2Ts and the only bikes I ever actually disliked were TYZ250 (riding position) and Aprilia and Armstrong with the slug like unresponsive motors. Why would I buy a 4RT? I like the build quality and as its 39 years since I last rode a 4T in a trial I just fancy a change. Although maybe not as competitive as 2T it will be any amount good enough for me. When I was riding regularly and practiced plenty I had no problem with a 300 2T but now I feel a bit less power and easier starting may suit me more. I rode a friends 4RT a few years back and with the exception of big steps felt more comfortable on it than on my own 2T.
  14. Straight out of the crate I would say Beta just shades it ahead of TRS, but it is very very close between all of them. If I were buying a new bike it would most likely be a 4RT which is probably the least competitive.
  15. On a TY80 I fitted brand new points that turned out to be faulty. Intermittent spark. The points had resistance where they were riveted together. Faulty source coils or condenser can also give intermittent running with symptoms you describe. Also known fault at spade connector under tank where HT coil connects to giove problems.