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oni nou

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  1. Sorted...
  2. The only reason it will not fit is if a previous owner fitted a non standard carburettor.
  3. The tyre you bought will fit your bike and is the best available now.A 120/100R18 is the metric measurement of a 4.00x18 120 is 120mm the width of the tyre...or 4.and 3/4 inches 100 is the profile or size of the sidewall of the tyre and is a percentage of the width of the tyre this is therefore 100% or 120mm 18 the wheel size that the tyre fits and is in inches of course
  4. A Trials bike specialist shop that sells Beta trials bikes may be able to help or go direct to Beta UK they may also be able to help.
  5. Does that mean that iif the bike falls on its side/goes upside down in a crash that you need to bleed the rear brake with that new master cylinder.
  6. Regular trials rules come from the FIM WTC rules ,they were adopted by the ACU for use in the British Trials Championships, national and club trials after much discussion between Thierry Michaud representing the FIM and British and European importers on how to make trials more appealing to newcomers and therefore sell more new bikes; after they had concluded that stop allowed techniques were ruining the sport and making it elitist. The Catalans/Spanish were clever as they kept their Championship rules 'stop allowed' so they get to keep their hand in ; just in case the WTC reverts back to stop allowed.
  7. That should not really happen as the reservoir has the expansion diaphragm and so the reservoir should have no air in it if the reservoir diaphragm is put in correctly when put together as in rolled over the fluid to expel air....The only air should be between the cap and the expansion diaphragm.
  8. 5.......5....5................5...................5...5............5....5.............................5............5.5.................5...........5..........................5................................................................................................5................5.5 FIVE............Perfect sections.... if they were set out for stop and reversing allowed.
  9. Try Ebuy under 'Beta trials stickers decals' obviously
  10. 300cc is a mans bike... he is not a simpering 'nancy boy'
  11. They didn't happen to charge you for that filter did they?.
  12. If you read the press releases ..the standard 2015 has adopted the 2014 factory stuff and more so either will do.
  13. To decrease the lever stroke [as In move the lever closer to the bar for an easier reach] use the adjuster near to the piston push pin [the pin between the lever and the brake master cylinder piston that has a small rubber dust cover that the pin passes through. Loosen the adjuster screw lock nut on the lever itself and screw the grubb screw outwards[This will move the lever closer to the handle bar.....the more you do this the bigger the gap between the perch and the lever stop end will be......This play needs to be controlled by the larger adjuster at the end of the perch.....as you your lever moves closer to the handle bar you will screw in the adjuster on the end of the perch to take up the play[movement of the lever between the perch lever stop and the lever touching the push pin that is between it and the master cylinder piston] IMPORTANT: You must have a small gap between the lever adjuster [grubb screw] and the push pin as the master cylinder piston MUST always return to its correct seated position against the clip that retains it in the master cylinder body. NOTE: if you adjust the lever too much closer to the bar you will be making the stroke of the piston shorter in the master cylinder...this means your clutch plates will spread open slightly less when your clutch lever is pulled against the handlebar and this will make your clutch drag; making it harder to locate neutral and making your bike move forward in gear with the clutch lever pulled against the handle bar....you will need to experiment to find the out the effects of this adjustment. This is what you need to check out.https://youtu.be/hdHmiNNgL2I
  14. To decrease the lever stroke [as In move the lever closer to the bar for an easier reach] use the adjuster near to the piston push pin [the pin between the lever and the brake master cylinder piston that has a small rubber dust cover that the pin passes through. Loosen the adjuster screw lock nut on the lever itself and screw the grubb screw outwards[This will move the lever closer to the handle bar.....the more you do this the bigger the gap between the perch and the lever stop end will be......This play needs to be controlled by the larger adjuster at the end of the perch.....as you your lever moves closer to the handle bar you will screw in the adjuster on the end of the perch to take up the play[movement of the lever between the perch lever stop and the lever touching the push pin that is between it and the master cylinder piston] IMPORTANT: You must have a small gap between the lever adjuster [grubb screw] and the push pin as the master cylinder piston MUST always return to its correct seated position against the clip that retains it in the master cylinder body. NOTE: if you adjust the lever too much closer to the bar you will be making the stroke of the piston shorter in the master cylinder...this means your clutch plates will spread open slightly less when your clutch lever is pulled against the handlebar and this will make your clutch drag; making it harder to locate neutral and making your bike move forward in gear with the clutch lever pulled against the handle bar....you will need to experiment to find the out the effects of this adjustment.