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Other option is for a new shock. Their is a guy on eBay who sells NOS Sachs shocks for very reasonable price his seller name is motopart7788. I bought one for my '13 GG and received it in four days in the US.

Hi They are difficult to find seals for and if you can find seals you still need to put in a valve to recharge the nitrogen. I think Splat shop may have someone they can send them out to. best of luck

Hi Most of the 1980-2001 Honda ATC 185-200 and XL/XR 185-200 heads,cylinders, cams, pistons etc. will work on the TLR. if you do some web searches there are people usually on 4stroke related forums that list all the different combinations. the reasons people change to them is that they have a larger intake valve and the cams they have are more performance oriented with different valve lift and opening/closing then the TLR. They also have larger carburetors and a higher compression piston. The TLR has been de-tuned (hard to imagine even less power) from them and have their own cam with timing/lift changes from the ATC's and the XR/XL's to make it more docile and easier to ride for trials. Changing different parts will change how the power comes on and when but that may or may not be what your looking for. A lot of people that want to make all the changes are often looking for more power for trail riding and will sacrifice some low end grunt. Many people think changing to a higher compression piston (the TLR is around 8.5 :1 as opposed to 10:1 for the ATV/XR/XL's) is the best (and easiest) way to more tourque. Lots of parts can be found on eBay. If you do decide you want to buy a used head and valve train pay very close attention to the cam journals, the cam lobes and rocker arm pads as often they are very worn out or scarred (usually from running low on oil) and you end up buying something you can't use. best of luck

Hi I have a 1987 TLR Reflex that has had the main wiring harness and lighting removed by PO and I would like to restore minimal wiring and lighting with no battery or possibly a battery eliminator. Stock, on the TLR Their is a regulator/rectifier under the seat and an AC regulator up behind the headlight. I've usually found one regulator/regulator on a 12v motorcycle does the job for all the lighting and charging systems and am curious why two regulators. I'm thinking of getting a universal type reg/rectifier or possibly one from a similar model / electrical type system Honda. Has anyone done this modification for minimal lighting and if so what did you end up using? thanks

You can check here for USFS spark arrestor info which will be a pretty good guideline for your project. https://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/programs/fire/spark/faq.html

This is an example of the quick fix: Drill a small hole in the fan housing than drill another hole in alignment on the fan structure (be careful that you don't drill so far through to damage the motor shaft) warm up your motor till the fan comes on then shut down. Insert the red straw from a lubricant spray can and with the tube try and feel for the fan motor shaft - I would reccomend a dry type of lube and sparingly spray lube onto the shaft then restart the motor and let the let the fan come on to help blow the lube back on the shaft hopefully getting into the bushing. not a for sure cure but may help in the short run. be careful not to over do it and flood the fan motor with the wet oil otherwise you could damage it

Unfortunately, they only kept about the last two years worth of issues of "On The Pegs" and have removed the previous ones of which the suspension article was in one.

Hi can someone provide me with the stock dellorto jetting numbers for the 26mm that was original to the 2013 280 pro thanks

Dunlop 803GP tires are usually half the price of Michelins. If as you say you are barely good enough to need new tires, spend half the amount on the Dunlops a great tire which will work fine for you.

First question is did you remove the jets (particularly the pilot jet) or just blow air through them to clean them? many people do not remove the jets to clean them and this is where the trouble can start. the pilot jet requires a small flat blade screwdriver to remove it and some people don't have one to fit and just blow air into it. this can plug the jet as the orifices in it are very small and dirtcan be forced into it. The pilot jet controls fuel flow at idle and just above idle throttle positions. The fact that it runs on the choke but not without usually indicates a clog in the pilot jet circuit. remove the jet, look through it. Blow through it. Can you see through the center passage way? If not, get a piece of small copper multi strand insulated wire (probably 18-22 gauge) strip back about 1.5" or so of the insulation. using 1 strand of the wire gently push it into the jet twisting it like a drill. Use some contact cleaner spray in the jet and repeat till clean now blow compressed air through. Make sure if their are holes on the side of the jet that they are clean too. spray contact cleaner into the hole you took the jet out of and blow air through it. if all is clear then reassemble.

Sorry about your problem but The site glass is the least of your problems. It could be a clutch problem causing it to be difficult to get into neutral but your description of jumping from 3rd gear to 5th gear is usually worn gear engagement dogs (on the transmission gears) and/or bent or worn shifting forks which is a major repair investment in parts and labor especially if you have a professional do it. It doesn't sound like its a job you should venture into on your own as it is major disassembly of the motor and replacement of parts that would be very expensive. It boils down to how much do you like this bike and how deep is your wallet.

What color is the smoke?gray, blue, black? gray-coolent burning blue- oil burning black- gas burning does it quickly clear up, or take a while? does it clear up faster if you rev up the motor? are the conditions the same when it happens? been under a heavy load? Engine really hot, fan on? Riding downhill? Cold out, hot? Wet? have you pulled the spark plug out when it happens and see what it looks like? some more info would help

Great video, thanks for posting it.

Note You should apply penetrating oil to the bolts before trying to remove them as they may be difficult to remove and could snap or damage the threads in the head

Looks like you have corrosion happening from the inside out. You might be able to patch it with some JB Weld or simalar epoxy, but first you should find out what is causing it The head is aluminum and the bolts are steel. Looking at your picture their appears that rust is forming on the bolts. Their is probably electrolysis happening between the dissimilar metals (steel, aluminum) Usually antifreeze contains inhibitors to help control this but if water or weak antifreeze solution has been in the motor this could be what is aiding the reaction. You should remove the head and find out the what the damages are. Also, you should take a look at your water pump impeller/housing. If you are getting this type of problem corrosion it is likely that their may be problems with that too.