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Other option is for a new shock. Their is a guy on eBay who sells NOS Sachs shocks for very reasonable price his seller name is motopart7788. I bought one for my '13 GG and received it in four days in the US.

Hi They are difficult to find seals for and if you can find seals you still need to put in a valve to recharge the nitrogen. I think Splat shop may have someone they can send them out to. best of luck

Hi Most of the 1980-2001 Honda ATC 185-200 and XL/XR 185-200 heads,cylinders, cams, pistons etc. will work on the TLR. if you do some web searches there are people usually on 4stroke related forums that list all the different combinations. the reasons people change to them is that they have a larger intake valve and the cams they have are more performance oriented with different valve lift and opening/closing then the TLR. They also have larger carburetors and a higher compression piston. The TLR has been de-tuned (hard to imagine even less power) from them and have their own cam with timing/lift changes from the ATC's and the XR/XL's to make it more docile and easier to ride for trials. Changing different parts will change how the power comes on and when but that may or may not be what your looking for. A lot of people that want to make all the changes are often looking for more power for trail riding and will sacrifice some low end grunt. Many people think changing to a higher compression piston (the TLR is around 8.5 :1 as opposed to 10:1 for the ATV/XR/XL's) is the best (and easiest) way to more tourque. Lots of parts can be found on eBay. If you do decide you want to buy a used head and valve train pay very close attention to the cam journals, the cam lobes and rocker arm pads as often they are very worn out or scarred (usually from running low on oil) and you end up buying something you can't use. best of luck

Hi I have a 1987 TLR Reflex that has had the main wiring harness and lighting removed by PO and I would like to restore minimal wiring and lighting with no battery or possibly a battery eliminator. Stock, on the TLR Their is a regulator/rectifier under the seat and an AC regulator up behind the headlight. I've usually found one regulator/regulator on a 12v motorcycle does the job for all the lighting and charging systems and am curious why two regulators. I'm thinking of getting a universal type reg/rectifier or possibly one from a similar model / electrical type system Honda. Has anyone done this modification for minimal lighting and if so what did you end up using? thanks

You can check here for USFS spark arrestor info which will be a pretty good guideline for your project. https://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/programs/fire/spark/faq.html

This is an example of the quick fix: Drill a small hole in the fan housing than drill another hole in alignment on the fan structure (be careful that you don't drill so far through to damage the motor shaft) warm up your motor till the fan comes on then shut down. Insert the red straw from a lubricant spray can and with the tube try and feel for the fan motor shaft - I would reccomend a dry type of lube and sparingly spray lube onto the shaft then restart the motor and let the let the fan come on to help blow the lube back on the shaft hopefully getting into the bushing. not a for sure cure but may help in the short run. be careful not to over do it and flood the fan motor with the wet oil otherwise you could damage it

Unfortunately, they only kept about the last two years worth of issues of "On The Pegs" and have removed the previous ones of which the suspension article was in one.

Hi can someone provide me with the stock dellorto jetting numbers for the 26mm that was original to the 2013 280 pro thanks

Dunlop 803GP tires are usually half the price of Michelins. If as you say you are barely good enough to need new tires, spend half the amount on the Dunlops a great tire which will work fine for you.

First question is did you remove the jets (particularly the pilot jet) or just blow air through them to clean them? many people do not remove the jets to clean them and this is where the trouble can start. the pilot jet requires a small flat blade screwdriver to remove it and some people don't have one to fit and just blow air into it. this can plug the jet as the orifices in it are very small and dirtcan be forced into it. The pilot jet controls fuel flow at idle and just above idle throttle positions. The fact that it runs on the choke but not without usually indicates a clog in the pilot jet circuit. remove the jet, look through it. Blow through it. Can you see through the center passage way? If not, get a piece of small copper multi strand insulated wire (probably 18-22 gauge) strip back about 1.5" or so of the insulation. using 1 strand of the wire gently push it into the jet twisting it like a drill. Use some contact cleaner spray in the jet and repeat till clean now blow compressed air through. Make sure if their are holes on the side of the jet that they are clean too. spray contact cleaner into the hole you took the jet out of and blow air through it. if all is clear then reassemble.

Sorry about your problem but The site glass is the least of your problems. It could be a clutch problem causing it to be difficult to get into neutral but your description of jumping from 3rd gear to 5th gear is usually worn gear engagement dogs (on the transmission gears) and/or bent or worn shifting forks which is a major repair investment in parts and labor especially if you have a professional do it. It doesn't sound like its a job you should venture into on your own as it is major disassembly of the motor and replacement of parts that would be very expensive. It boils down to how much do you like this bike and how deep is your wallet.

What color is the smoke?gray, blue, black? gray-coolent burning blue- oil burning black- gas burning does it quickly clear up, or take a while? does it clear up faster if you rev up the motor? are the conditions the same when it happens? been under a heavy load? Engine really hot, fan on? Riding downhill? Cold out, hot? Wet? have you pulled the spark plug out when it happens and see what it looks like? some more info would help

Great video, thanks for posting it.

Note You should apply penetrating oil to the bolts before trying to remove them as they may be difficult to remove and could snap or damage the threads in the head

Looks like you have corrosion happening from the inside out. You might be able to patch it with some JB Weld or simalar epoxy, but first you should find out what is causing it The head is aluminum and the bolts are steel. Looking at your picture their appears that rust is forming on the bolts. Their is probably electrolysis happening between the dissimilar metals (steel, aluminum) Usually antifreeze contains inhibitors to help control this but if water or weak antifreeze solution has been in the motor this could be what is aiding the reaction. You should remove the head and find out the what the damages are. Also, you should take a look at your water pump impeller/housing. If you are getting this type of problem corrosion it is likely that their may be problems with that too.

Read this article it will give you a lot of information and give you a good basis for setting your suspension. https://www.joomag.com/magazine/trials-enduro-news-december-2014-volume-49-issue-12/0716551001416757092?page=61

Great tires. And Great Price compared to Michelins. Run 6psi ft. 4psi rear. I still contend in a blind side by side comparison 95% of people could never tell the difference.

My experience in general is that no bearings are ever greased enough from any factory. It's not difficult and if you are worried about putting it back together correctly take some pictures first. the more often you maintain them the better they will operate and last.

Back in the early 1980's, after being inspired by the works Honda of Eddie Lejune I decided to build just about what you are talking about. I was working at a Honda dealership which helped me resource parts. i wanted to build 180lb or less single shocked Honda with the fuel tank under the seat for lowering the CG and centralizing weight. i purchased a used XL, bought an oxy-acetylene torch and spent the winter in the cold garage building this. As it's been over 30 years I don't remember specifics of of measurements but I can list some of the features. The pictures may fill in some details. The wheels and forks and triple clamps were from a CR 125 in sure I modified the fork internals but don't remember what was done. I did cut the steering head and changed the fork rake and re located the handlebar clamps. The motor had a Poweroll big bore kit and stroked crank to make it about 222cc displacement. I used the stock Keihin carb. I fabricated an air box and fuel tank which can be seen located under the seat. The fuel was pumped up to the carb via a Mikuni vacuum pump. Swingarm was re enforced and a single Fox shock was made to specifications by Fox. The bodywork was made from a plastic trash can (yes this is true) which was formed with a heat gun and graphics were contact paper and stickers. The exhaust was stock header and the rest was fabbed and a WES muffler was fitted. Fenders were ft. Bultaco replica and rear a Preston Petty "Mudder". The fork brace was the inside of a streetbike fender held on with "U" bolts holding it on to the forks. I was young and inspired at the time and had a great time building it but you may be further down the road starting with a TL or something. It actually did work pretty well and while at the time I was riding intermediate and advanced class sections with it I'm sure it would have done quite well with the vintage sections today. cheers and good luck!

To change the curve of the fender get a heat gun or powerful hair drier and carefully heat the fender behind the fender mount while applying some pulling pressure to the fender back towards the frame till you have the clearance you want. Shove a small block of wood between the tire and fender to hold the fender out till it cools, then remove the block. You may have to repeat the procedure to get it where you want it as your heat source or fender plastic will have different results. Be careful as to how much heat you apply as you can melt the fender or its graphics.

When a manufacturer gives you a air chamber height for fork oil, what they are referring to is a measurement taken with the fork spring(s) (many Trials forks are designed with one spring in one fork so different air chamber numbers will be indicated) removed and the fork collapsed and with fork cap removed. The measurement is taken from the top edge of the tube inside down to where the oil is. In this case 160mm the other fork most likely has a different number. This should be done with the fork tube off the bike and held vertically for the best accuracy. Most Trials bikes are running between 5w and 10w fork oil. As far as the front brake disc, the reason it rattles is it is a floating disc. It is supposed to be a bit loose as it is designed to be able to move side to side and forward and reverse. You are overtigtening the bolts which is why you are snapping the head of the bolt off. You should check the tourque spec. for them and since it sounds like you may have already overstressed the other bolts and may have induced stress cracks which could cause failure you should replace them with new bolts and tourque them to correct specs.

Please read this article. It is the best basic set up and understanding for trials suspension I have seen. Should be required reading. https://www.joomag.com/magazine/trials-enduro-news-december-2014-volume-49-issue-12/0716551001416757092?page=61

Read this article https://www.joomag.com/magazine/trials-enduro-news-december-2014-volume-49-issue-12/0716551001416757092?page=61

Two books that might you may enjoy if your interested in suspension theory and chassis design are: Race Tech's Motorcycle Suspension Bible by Thede and Parks Motorcycle Chassis Design by Foale and Willoughby

Back in the late 1970's and '80's and on when motocross was going through its monoshock conversions from the twin shocks, what engineers were trying to create was a rising rate suspension so that it would allow supple compliance at small bumps and allow the system to also handle large impacts from big jumps. They seem to have all settled around 12" of travel and use linkages and oil dampened valving with multiple adjustments to control the motion. Current Trials suspensions with linkages are imitating these types of suspensions but with only with a little over half the travel and with a few newer exceptions and some better after market shocks, fewer adjustments. Proper set-up is very beneficial and more important then some might think and can improve your ability to maintain control over obsticals, turns and large impact objects. if you haven't read this article I recommend it as it is one of the few I've found that is not only focused on trials suspensions, but is clear and informative on setting yours up. https://www.joomag.com/magazine/trials-enduro-news-december-2014-volume-49-issue-12/0716551001416757092?page=61