beta_blocker

Read this article. https://www.joomag.com/magazine/trials-enduro-news-december-2014-volume-49-issue-12/0716551001416757092?page=61

If plates measure out correctly and are not hanging up in the clutch basket I would next check to see if the clutch springs are not at the proper length (sacked out)

I agree that you should be free to wear any type of helmet that meets certain protection standards for your safety if it's full or open face. I don't see what this video does to move the discussion forward. According to this video they haven't posted video of the crash itself so if thats true we don't know yet what helmet he was wearing (unless you have more info or have seen the video). In most of the videos I can find of him riding he is wearing a pudding bowl skateboard helmet which would explain further his head injury and facial damage, if that was what he was wearing as these provide minimal protection. He mentions a face guard that broke away which doesn't sound like a full coverage downhill approved helmet as to meet the qualifications they may not have any type of removable face guard. His spinal injury would probably have happened no matter what helmet he was wearing as it sounds like it is from head/neck compression from head first into concrete or rock. So I'll wait to see what further information shows. I hope he is able to have full recovery and is able to ride again soon,

Sounds like your shock is in good shape. Start saving for the TRP maybe next year it's a great improvement. These bikes can have a lot of power right off the bottom and depending on your terrain can be a real handful to ride and wear you out. Changing gearing on mine made a huge difference in my ability to learn to manage and ride it. You may want to go to a smaller countershaft sprocket (depending on your current gear combo). As your ability on the bike gets better you can alter the gearing to suit.

Their is a slight modification that needs to be done with the top shock mount for the TRP. A bit of the frame needs to be ground to clear the shock body by the shock eye. If the Riger shock is in good working condition and importantly will fit correct and the spring is correct for your approximate riding weight it sounds like a good buy. Make sure that the end of the shock that is connected to the lower linkage clears as it's pretty tight fitting in there. The different shock length may effect the steering as it can change the fork rake and trail. With a rear shock link set up a basic rule of thumb would be the difference in shock length usually doubles what changes at the rear axel. Ex. 10mm longer shock = 20mm raised at the axel and reverse. This is not a hard fast rule but a loose approximation as linkage ratios are all different. This can change the bikes steering/handling geometry.

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Glad to help The exhaust is what I believe comes stock on the R model which has a titanium header pipe and a carbon fiber heat guard. I added metal guards on both sides of the header to protect it and the thing on the end of it is a spark arrestor. If you can find someone who can rebuild the shock they will have to install a very small version of a valve to recharge the nitrogen. You can sort of see its location in this picture, it's under the red cap.

Hi Proper I have a 2009 320 R which I've had for about a year and have learned quite a bit about it and may be able to help you with some of your questions and your rebuild. the shock probably has lost its damping abilities and should be (if you can find someone and the correct parts) be rebuilt or replace it. I tried having mine rebuilt several times by a local shock guy and we had trouble sourcing the internal piston seal and were never (after several tries of modifying KTM shock parts) able to get the right amount of damping restriction. We found the inner seal was melted, possibly due to the proximity of the hot muffler and the shock body after all this I finally gave up and got a TRP. Since replacing the shock I added a thin layer of insulation between the muffler and the metal heat shield and an additional rubber "drape" that hangs between the backside of the muffler and shock to help curb the heat effect. Obviously your fork seals are toast and should be replaced but cleaning up the scraches in the fork stanchions is a must. I've heard of people using super glue plus accelerator to kick it off to fill the scraches and then smoothing them with fine sand paper. You could also probably use an epoxy like JB weld which has fine metal particles in it. The front brake could be many different things. Check that the disk isn't bent, that it's correctly mounted (it is a floating setup and should have play in it) that the correct pads are in and that the caliper Pistons move in and out and are not stuck. Their is more to check but that's a start. The motor. Your ticking noise could be several things. Usually cam chain noise sounds more rattle like then ticking. Metallic Ticking from the valve area can be made by the rocker arms and either a gap between the valve shim and the arm is too large (The valves have small metal shims that are used to fine tune the gap so that it is correct and prevents burned valves and proper closing for compression) or their is wear in the cam follower roller. The roller has needle bearings that can easily get oil starved and start to deteriorate. I've had the experience of these needles wearing and had to replace the exhaust rocker arm. I also had the replacement rocker arm fracture at the weld for the pin that runs through that bearing and shear in half, but that's another story. Pull your valve cover and use the Sherco procedure to check the valve clearences, then remove the pins that hold the rocker arms in place and check to see if their is movement in that bearing that is up and down. If their is that movement you must replace the arm before you can adjust the valve clearance. When adjusted correctly these motors still make some ticking noises as the proper clearences are a little on the large size compared to some othe motor specs. I can't see in your picture the silver area in the exhaust port so I can't comment on that. As far as the spark plug socket. I think splat shop sells one or maybe Ryan Young products if your in the US that fits. If not Buy the thinnest walled spark plug socket you can and grind it to fit in the hole that's what I did. For engine oil I run Motul 300V 15W 50 it works well with the clutch. Make sure you drain and fill both sides (2 drains, one bolt and the oil screen) Have you downloaded the manuals? That's about all I can handle with typing this on my phone so I hope this helps. Vic

Glad to help

Make sure first that the needle jet assembly is correct I've mistakenly changed the atomizer jet inside it around before and had a terrible flat spot

When you read the article that billyt posted and look at what the helmet manufactures are now developing and advertising, this focusing on lower impact g force brain survival is the way their helmet development is going. The manufacturers are realizing that putting a cannonball in a helmet and dropping it 6 or 8 feet may not shatter the helmet but what are the real world damage results to that head (and brain) that would normally be inside there? There are several manufactures that are now advertising helmets with new shock absorbing features (like in the article) rotational impact compensation and more compliant foams that deform at lower impacts to reduce the concusive impact to the brain. I started talking with Billy earlier this year about this subject of full face helmets when I began becoming more concerned about what might become of my expensive reparative dental work if I would crash and mash my face against a rock or log and also talking with other riders that had suffered through facial reconstructive surgery from their crashes. I've caught myself in a few crashes over time that ended with my face very close to impact with some hard object and while I use a full coverage Moto helmet when I ride my enduro bike I have resisted in trials as I didn't like having my view blocked right in front of my wheel and tried my Moto helmet for trials and found I didn't like the whole feel of this. This is when Billy and I started looking in to bike helmets as they have larger face port openings and a lot of cooling vents. They are also generally lighter and a smaller overall shell. Many of them are even carbon fiber. But we were also interested in quality and protection. When you start looking, as Billy said at the downhill certified bike helmets you see a world of difference between the foam and plastic head buckets typically sold in bike shops and the well designed and engineered competition certified capable full coverage helmets offered. They even have real "D" ring closures for the chin straps instead of plastic clip closures and I found out yesterday that Billy's Leatte helmet even has titanium "D" rings! I purchased a Bell Transfer 9 helmet which I felt was a reasonably priced downhill helmet for my testing and from the first time riding with it have never looked back. The larger lower opening allows full vision forward and the added cooling vents make the helmet feel cooler when wearing. The only drawback Ive found is if you want to take a drink from a bottle you have to remove the helmet or use a straw or something like a camelback hydration system with a hose which we already use most times riding here in AZ. If you are required to have a road certified helmet to compete with your club this may not be an option at this time but I think clubs and sanctioning organizations should be looking into this option. I think in trials with our generally lower impact speeds and more and more challenging sections (especially for expert and pro riders) riders should look into these high quality certified full face helmet options.

Personally, I find one of the problems in improving is just riding sections in your practice time. I find practicing skills separate from sections much more condusive to improvement. So many times riding sections you are focused on getting through any way you can and not correctly riding. Spend half of your practice time isolating skills like tighter and tighter turns on a flat area, then practice stopping and going smoothly in those turns, then do that on a hill side. Then practice riding over a log then turning before the log or rock over and over etc. till you commit it to muscle memory then expand the complexity of the skill but concentrate on that skill. If you have friends to ride with that can observe and coach you so you can do these things correctly, watch your body/throttle/timing etc. and instruct you to do the skill correctly. If not, find better riders that you can work with or Take a Trials class where your skills can improve with correct technique. Also, a great help is to video yourself and watch what you do.

Satin black hi heat engine paint is easy to spray and easy to touch up when it gets scratched. Buy it at your local Autoparts store

A small piece of aluminum strap (curved to match the fender) with a couple of longer screws helps spread the fender and helps the two mounting points from cracking in a crash (which they do easily).

Splatshop has this test procedure for the Leonelli 2 map stator which I believe is what is on your bike. They also advertise rebuilding service. http://www.splatshop.co.uk/leonelli-twin-map-stator-testing

Read this article. It is full of important information every trials rider should understand on setting up your suspension. If you don't start out getting your spring rate/suspension sag correct for your weight and proper fork oil, you will have trouble making adjustments to your bike to make it handle correctly. https://www.joomag.com/magazine/trials-enduro-news-december-2014-volume-49-issue-12/0716551001416757092?page=61

Try adding a washer on the end of each clutch spring post ( the part that comes through each clutch spring there are 6 springs and six posts.) I'm trying to remember if it's either a 5 or 6mm hole and the washer should be 1-1.5mm thick. Put the bike on its left side (if you don't want to drain the oil) remove cover, loosen and remove all six bolts holding springs, place a washer on each post install the bolts back and tourque to proper spec. Replace the cover. This not only makes the clutch pull lighter by decreasing the clutch spring preload but makes a more progressive feel. I also use Motul 300v 15w-50 (I'm in the desert you may want 10w-40 if you are in a cool climate) The thicker oil makes the clutch engagement a bit smoother And this Ester based motul oil while expensive smooths out the clutch even more and helps with shifting. If you don't want to spend the extra on the motul oil you should still try the clutch washers. Also the clutch plate mod (the filing) works very well to help with sticking etc. the hydrulic clutches are more sensitive and have less feel then the older cable pull type. Buy a hand/finger grip strengthener and build your index finger muscles and that will additionally help with clutch control.

Their are not a lot of choices when it comes to painting a plastic tank and having it last. Almost every spray paint will be effected because of the fuel will dissolve it. Some have tried coating the inside of the tank with some type of barrier but I haven't heard a lot of success stories with that route. If you decide to try the 2K type paints remember to use the proper Resperator and clothing, ventilated area etc.- the stuff is very toxic and can ruin your health. Is your tank scratched or white faded? Sometimes color can be brought back with a heat gun.

Welcome to the world of Trials riding! My question is: Why would you hamper your learning skills to ride trials by negating one of the most important controls for modern trials riding? You have a top notch modern machine. If you plan to progress and move up in ability and types of sections to ride it is essential to not to fear but embrace the clutch and learn how and when to use it. We are so fortunate to have bikes with hydraulic clutches with one finger capability. Save the $$$ you would spend on the Rekluse and use it to attend a trials school that will show you how and when to use it. You will be glad you did!

Another yea for TRP '09 Sherco 4T works wonders

You're welcome Their is a great article in Trial &Enduro News (now On The Pegs) that discribes how to set sag and actually a comparison of the stock Beta shock and the TRP shock. I've found the percentages they used to work well for me. https://www.joomag.com/magazine/trials-enduro-news-december-2014-volume-49-issue-12/0716551001416757092?page=61

Here is A TRP mounted on my Sherco

Make sure you get the shock set up correctly (sag) range, if you can't you may need to change the spring for your specific weight. Adjust the damping setting on the rebound. If it is a TRP shock and not just a TRP spring on the TRP the rebound adjuster is on the end of the shock with the rod it is the knurled coller that rotates. If your shock is mounted with the rod facing up then the adjuster is on that end but normally the shock is run "upside down" ("body up" )and the adjuster would be on the downward end. The screw is for refilling nitrogen. The TRP is a great shock and is also fully rebuildable.

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I think this may have been a problem that started prior to me buying the bike (December) but I change oil generally 30 hrs or less running full synthetic either Castrol 4T racing or Mobil 1 4T racing. You would think there would be some kind of corresponding wear on the intake side rocker or cam but that all appears normal. Contacted US Sherco distributor (RYP) and they had not heard of any problems like this.