All Activity

I treated myself by buying all the hydraulic clutch control parts for the '94 model (the last Climber). Complete cover, hose, master cylinder. A modification that was on Tommy's official bike in '93. I was missing the gasket. That's been taken care of with a bit of gasket paper and 15 minutes!

Thanks ALL - I ordered the lower leg on EBay - I can always repair it later if needed. $115 seems safe and it looks like new, just like my current forks. All parts ordered - seat from Spain - can't wait to put it all back togegether.

That would be affordable if you are the guy doing the machine work and you have all the equipment already.

If the bores are oval, you can have them machined to take modern Teflon coated bushings, or bronze. But, it would be much easier to find a replacement.

I remade the end piece for the swingarm pivot. It was fitted with an M14x1.50 thread and glued loctite 638. The original one was cracked. I had no experience with threading and tapping on a lathe. The result is perfect.

Hi i am trying to get details to register this bike in Uk but not having much luck tracking down. Can anyone give me any guidance on how to get paperwork? i believe its a 1977 manufacture. The bike frame has a stamp FANTIC TX 250 GM 6992 OM *0008980* or could be * 0006980*

I'm waiting for a used 4RT top triple clamp for 22mm handlebars. It's lighter and also moves the handlebars forward, which is what I'm looking for to modernize the stock, slightly chopper-like geometry without compromising the look. I have a few other bits and pieces to add to save even more weight (I expect to save around 400-500 grams). I'm going to machine an alloy swingarm pivot. I'll take this opportunity to remove the engine and take off the extra base gasket.

The fork is finally finished! I replaced the hydraulic part, which was completely wrecked. You can see the heat marks I made trying to reshape it... but the shaft and its guide bushing were shot. So, I found a suitable part from an earlier model year. There are a few differences, including the end stop, but that's actually a good thing because this assembly avoids a worn-out foam buffer in favor of a more durable rubber one. I adapted a brake hose guide. It's clean and doesn't rub anywhere.

https://www.amazon.com/-/es/Montesa-Scorpion-Vintage-Manual-Original/dp/B091G4YRW8

Stickers in progress.

Hi, I'm running a 24mm OKO from Mid Atlantic (so a genuine one) junked the air box so using a foam pod filter and alloy exhaust with no back muffler. Pilot is #42 Main is #102.

Hi everyone, I just joined, and I really appreciate all the knowledge here, and I'm ready to share my own

Trying to replace the kickstarter spring, I can’t find one, I don’t have the original to compare to the many varieties available on eBay, does anyone have a diagram of this complete assembly/installation. ( 1966 Montesa scorpion 250)

Cosa intendi dire con "non riesci ad aprire il campanello"? Per favore, pubblica una fotografia del campanello.

@ FHG Sounds familiar , One listens to a machine pretending to be a person , you then take its advice , you believe what it tells you and then everything gets broken , affects you personally and costs you money.

The old Beta`s had to have a special float setting. https://www.trialsport.com.au/beta/Manuals/mikuni/

The lower fork legs wear oval in the bore after years of use depending on how often the oil was changed, measure the bore in the lower legs for true to round before investing in a weld repair. Very few will have the tech to weld that material efficiently.

It's always half way up the emulsion tube because that is the part most sensitive to the correct fuel level.

Thks , spent a few more hours knelt by the techno today , no difference! I took the header off and applied a lighter to it , it lit up well and burnt for about 30 seconds so yes there was fuel in there. I kicked the bike over without the header and it started briefly. I also did a compression test 150PSI . When the header was off I noticed a pin hole about a inch from where the flange is so I,m wondering if this is not helping things - not the fuel leak but basic running when I can get it running that is. I think I will get a new valve jet and seat as although it appears to seal when level maybe when its at a angle its binding on the side. I also noticed the tang plate float pin is really loose , maybe that is wriggling loose and binding on the carb. I think a new carb would be the best route if I cannot buy the valve jet/seat so will have to see which way it goes. One question I have is what does the manual suggest is the correct float height , 15mm from the carb casting or should I do the lining up method withthe pilot jet tower ?

I broke the bottom of the lower fork on my Montesa rebuild. ChatGPT told me to hammer down....the forks come up.... I should have realized but didn't. I heard about welding but I think here in Alberta, CA it would be very expensive and no warranty or guarantee. I see exact parts on ebay in the US that look almost new. They look too good to be true but I assume I could rebuild the forks with new seals... Or is it best to try to get an entire fork - upper and lower? The old shocks seemed to be functional 25 years later. Any recommendations would be great.

Hi Cello, I have 3 Techno's and all 98 black models. Carbs can be an issue especially when leaning the bike over at sections, unless you turn the petrol off. The Mikuni's Vm 26?? are hard to source spares for (I needed a carb top and looked for ages). I'd suggest buying an OKO copy carb off flea bay, (around £30) and try it. As for the float height, I set mine too the manual, floats around level with the carb body, also attach a pipe and with the bowel off simulate its correct position, and manually work the floats to ensure the needle valve stops the fule supply. Best of luck and keep at it, as the Techno's are a great bike and still competitive. Jim.

From what you are saying it seems that you have a problem with an incorrect float height or the float arm is sticking open for whatever reason when you tilt the bike. If it were me I would bend the float arm central tang (that touches the fuel inlet shut off valve) upward slightly so the fuel shuts off with less fuel in the bowl. The reason your bike will not start is that the crank case is flooded out. When this happens take the plug out and clean and dry it off put it back in then try holding the throttle wide open while kicking it over , if it is mildly flooded it will start but not if it is seriously flooded.

Checked the floats , they appear to be intact no cracks etc and float in petrol fine. I turned the fuel on with the carb off the bike no leaks but then fitted it to the bike and it *issed out on the stand, hold the bike vertical and it stopped but still wont start , not even a hint at catching. New plug on the way and will do a compression check while I wait, thks for your suggestions.

Have you pulled the header pipe off the bike. Sounds like it is full of fuel. The crank could be full as well.