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What about a high security cable instead of chain? what you are aiming to do is slow down the scum, if they have enough time and the right tools your bike is gone. a loud alarm and baseball bat will also help.

Locks only stop honest people -> 'out of sight out of mind' Best way to secure a motorcycle in a garage area where it might be stolen from is to put the motorcycle inside a locking container.

Chains up to around 14mm will with some wiggling fit around the frame above the swingarm pivot on the left side.

I have never seen a video uploaded directly to Trials Central. Pretty sure you must use an intermediary server (like YouTube) and then post a link. Try unplugging the connector for the Regen button. It will be labeled something like "FRB" for fixed regen braking.

Hi guys I’m looking for some help here I have a Beta evo 125 (22) and looking to make it more secure in my garage. I bought a Datatag and an Oxford Beast ground anchor, lock and chain but my sheer stupidity didn’t realise it won’t fit through the frame unless I take the spark plug out .. I don’t really want to be doing that its been suggested to take the wheels off which seems a good idea but I can pick the bike up then Anyone recommended a good lock and chain etc or are their other trains of thought? tia

Hi Kurtis, thank you for the reply. I had given that thought. With a 17mm thru hole, the only shaft small enough is the transmission shaft. I've attached a scan of the parts list for the transmission. Item 21 (the shaft) is the only diameter it fits on. The bearing you are suggesting is item 22. I know that the part was on the outside of this referenced bearing, as I was stripping parts to make it easier for the mechanic to separate the case for me, and do the seal work and return to me assembled minus the parts I took off. There are only 2 washers (and 1 snap ring) on that side of the bearing. Those are items 33 and 34. Both of those items seem to be in place. Item 33 is a similar washer but is only 1mm thick. Item 34 is a conical washer (not flat). I'm convinced that the washer came from this assemble, but it's not shown, and all parts accounted for. Can anyone confirm that item 34 is conical? I still have assembly issues if I add this washer, as then the snap ring won't go on. So did this washer come from else where? There are 2 washers of similar nature shown on the Kick Starter Parts List. I have attached that schematic. They are Items 4 and 15. Both of these washers are present on my assembly. Could it have been an additional spacer here? Does anyone have the dimensions of items 4 and 15? PN's 08211-17342 and 08212-20361 respectively. From the pictures I've been able to find it looks similar to item 4 (08211-17342). Kick Starter shaft.pdf Transmission parts.pdf

No lever. Has a regen button (i think) on the left side near the clutch

I tried adding the video on here but it won't accept it and I guess it's hard to explain. Kinda like the hard disk drive turning a disk but can't read it so it keeps gliching. Probably doesn't make much sense. I'll keep trying to upload.

Hi, I've just registered on the site. I have been replacing the fuel pump on my TR 280i and found a few helpful posts here. I was wondering if anyone knows where i can find an Explorer conversion kit. By the way I found the fuel pumps from the KTM 690 Duke's look identical and are relatively cheaper..

JITSIE made BETA EVO disc spacers/bobbins have these measurements TOP HAT BRIM = 14mm , BOLT HOLE = 6.30mm , DISC LOCATOR BUSHING AREA = 10.20mm . The clutch pressure plate should be under spring pressure and clamping the clutch pack together it should not waggle , if you are referring to the clutch basket moving then that would be movement in the bushing or perhaps the nut that holds it on is loose?. Best of luck. Regards Alan.

I would start by lining it up with the other bearings in the case. it may be a shim that was added to get the correct end float on a shaft.

After splitting the case to replace the crank seals, I have an extra washer! It's 17 X 33 X 1.5 mm. With a 17mm through hole, I assume it's off the transmission. In reference to fig 8 (Transmission) of the parts manual. The only washers on the parts list are Item 33 a thinner (1mm) washer and item 34 a conical washer are both present. I did not go past the bearing so missing item 16 is ruled out. I can see wear marks on the washer that would correspond to the small diameter portion of the conical washer. When things are installed per the parts manual illustration, there is no slop when installing the cir-clip on the end, and installation of this clip is not possible with this thicker washer substituted for the thinner washer. Is it possible to compress the conical washer so installation is possible? Where does this mystery washer go? Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

Cheers Chaps! No Facial recognition technology back then. Owner with the Clerk of the Course official yellow armband. Not my bike! Motosinge83.

Thanks for the info, the drive gear\shaft is a one piece item but I have now found a replacement although the gear is made out of plastic so hardly a upgrade I may try the old shaft cleaned up with emmery cloth and the new bearings / seal. The forks need a service , the exhaust a good decoking and the rear wheel some replacelment spokes but apart from that it would be nice to enter a trial and seee how she/I cope! Top hats appear well worn I think as they allow radial movement hence they need replacing to make the front end feel more stable on the brakes. Should the clutch pressure plate waggle side to side I wonder? I think I will have to investigate further.........

If it has 'top hat' washers then it is is a floating brake 😐 the type of disc brake where the disc needs to float to centre the disc between the pads. To do that the disc needs to float side to side and not radially, if the washers are worn in 2 spots radially you can loosen the retaining blot and rotate the top hat washer so it wears in a new place.

If I remember right those disc's were the floating type. They were meant to move.

Do you have the variable regen lever option? If so, unplug it as a test.

Not sure what you mean by a "low pulse tone from the battery." There is a large contactor inside the battery that makes an audible clunk every time the battery is switched ON or OFF.

@cello www.betausa.com Trials support service manuals EVO 2009- 2015 service manual the motor is very similar to the techno so use that as a guide .Techno details are harder to find now.

I know this has been covered many times before but I'm wondering how best to remove the bearings from the impeller shaft? Also the metal drive gear will need to be swapped to a new shaft unless they are bought as a single item , I cannot see any wear on the shaft but if I'm changing the bearings and seal it makes sense to replace the shaft does it not....... The impeller was toast when i took the pump cover off and the circlip was missing so thats either somewhere else in the engine or the previous owner failed to fit one. I,ve also noticed the water pump drive seal and bearings are easily sourced from a bearing / seal company at a 1/3 of the price from going to Beta or Trials dealership....mmmmmm Re the clutch , i,ve not had a chance to ride the bike yet but noticed the plates waggle in the basket as if there if thebasket bolts are loose, which they are not. Is this normal ? One other question on the front brake rotor which has to much play in the top hats that seat it to the hub , I asume these are worn and need replacing if they sre still available , any idea of the size in case I have to source them from somewhere else?

Yes, maps cycles thru no problem. No tone on maps change but we did have a low pulse tone from the battery that maybe happened 3 times outta the 50 odd times we've started the bike to test.

Dry air would be OK as a temporary measure, but moisture in the air will eventually cause corrosion. This thread mentions pressure: https://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/69619-ozo-pro-trials-rear-shocks-a-look-inside/page/2/ Edit: A more complete answer is that it's the combination of oxygen and moisture in the air that will do the damage. I think using a bicycle tire pump would be much better than a shop air compressor that has not been drained immediately beforehand.

I have a set of OZO shocks on my SWM TL320. They aren’t leaking oil but are very springy/bouncy. They have shrader valves can i fill them with air? If so how much? I know you’re supposed to fill with nitrogen but I have a trials this weekend and no way to get that done right now. But the air would be temporary. Thanks

mahalo!🤙🏾

I was riding and clutch was getting less pressure at lever until no pressure at all. I managed to ride back to truck. i found a burn mark on line by the exhaust pipe and lower was wet on line towards clutch cover. i opened master cylinder ( mineral oil) and was empty. I just sold my KTM 300 so have changed out my clutch line before but on the Gas Gas do I just unscrew the line from clutch cover and master up top and replace then use syringe to force mineral oil from bottom up? mahalo! riding on Oahu🤙🏾