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Don't know how to break this to you but not for profit clubs and the events are built by riders, regular ordinary people that do it for fun and not for profitable employment. It starts when you or you and maybe one or two friends decide you want to have a club and the first thing that person or group of people needs to do is fork out a healthy amount of personal money to establish a club and event sanction. Subsequently that person hopes that a sufficient number of participants show up and pay enough coin to re-cover the costs already incurred at the events that person or club builds. In defence of your opinion, only a rider that has organized a club and regularly hosted sanctioned events would know that somebody such as myself has already dropped coin to make the event happen. You are only willing to support the club and the event costs if it suits you 👎 Next issue is security and facilities where pre-registration makes it possible to predict how many portable toilets, parking spaces, campsites and additional support people the organizers require to make the event work for you all. You can't plan and build a successful event if you can't even know people will show.

Hello guys, I am looking for rear light for Apirlia txr 312 m and speedometer, If anyone have any of that please contact me on joky.kralj@gmail.com Thank u

Totally disagree with this. Club trials should not warrant pre entry, especially pre payment. Then clubs wonder why entries are down, some people aren't prepared to commit on a Monday whether they are free on Saturday, so just go practicing instead. Clubs should be making it easier for people to enter, not harder

Well I did an easy trial and I believe it was more controllable. That said when I get tired (easily appears to be my new reality) I get more sloppy. I might look into the kit but a few bills need to be sorted.

Search for somebody local to you that services alternators and starter motors, there should be loads of shops that can do it.

I seem to remember reading posts here about someone that could rewind a stator for better starting? Was that fella in the USA and if so what was his contact info? Thanks.

Thank you!!

My Montesa came with an addendum to the owners manual detailing how to prep the bike for competition, it was in the crate right from the manufacturer, so I would ask your dealer if they scooped it or if they can provide that information. ... as for is it OK to remove the fuel tank vapour pollution control measures, that is likely a personal choice, the engine won't notice any difference. I owned another 4RT that was stripped of parts almost beyond reason by a previous owner and it worked just fine.

Just bought 2021 4RT 260 which is somehow messy and I start servicing it and got shocked 🤣 Im used to simple 2 stroke, and I couldn't believe all the hoses and wires running under the tank! what a mess! On the wiring side, I want to leave the bare minimum. I dont need lights and horn. I just want kiill switch and what ever the engine need (ECU, Fuel pump, fan). Any advice here? On the hoses side, that double fuel tank vent left me confused. What the lower one is good for? Can I remove/block it or it will have some unwanted effects doing so? The head vent goes into big catch tank. Is it ok to remove it and just route the hose into the ground? Thanks for your help!

Hi Guys, thanks for the replies, yeah I am very much a casual rider who with my limited skill and age level only ride when I feel I can manage a whole trial, the goal is to enjoy the time and not get hurt, winning would be nice but you got to be realistic... I will look for some AMCA events near me and try my best...

Thks for the response, yes i usually run the carb fuel down after riding but my techno has sufffered from leaking fuel since I picked her up. Its hard to see wwhere the fuel is coming from but the back of the crank case behind the carb is usually where I can spot the problem. I thought it was the float sticking but I always have the issue and it might be persistent just disguised abit when the motor is running. Prob need to fit a catch tank on the overflow pipe and see if its fills up after starting. Lanyard sounds easy , thank you Here's a pic of the switch as per a ebay ad, they have the same issue as me , the thumb part of the switch is missing which is typical of 90's dirtbikes , i have a enduro bike ith the same problem and just taped it up to not loose any water in the switch . A way of using the switch would be better if anyone can think of one ?

I finally solved the problem with great help from Inch Perfect Trials. It was a fault in the wiring loom. I changed the loom and all is now well. Once I have done a full trial or a practice day I'll do an autopsy on the old look to see if I can pin down exactly where the fault is. With the plastics and all the cable ties off, I did find that wiggling around all the wires at the back-end would very occasionally solve the problem, but then a minor touch and it would come back. Also the symptoms changed; from beep-beep whatever the throttle position to no beep and no ability to engage a map.

Sport80 is a generic sports administration system that the ACU has been using for a couple of years. I'm not sure if it has inherent flaws or is simply badly implemented in the motorcycle sport environment, but at least it's not as bad as when it started. Pre-entry of trials is normally done through Sport80, though it doesn't have to be. Some ACU clubs stick with entry on the day and some use this simpler and easier alternative system: https://mototrial.co.uk/trial-entry/ AMCA clubs are generally enter-on-the-day, but occasionally use their own system or the Mototrial one. As Lemur said, pre-entry is much better for the organising clubs (Sport80 notwithstanding!) but enter-on-the-day is preferred by casual riders who can decide at the last minute whether to ride or not.

If it's anything like the rest of the world, pre-entry started because of covid rules and will likely remain because pre-entry is of huge benefit to the people that organize and host observed trials competitions. The only people that resist pre-registration are the ones that don't take entry to the event seriously and don't care if the event is successful or not, it's all about not wanting to forfeit the pre-entry fee.

Hi everyone Been out of the scene for a while, fancy another wobbling session... Entry process seems to of changed, why can,t I enter on day? What is this "Sport80" ? Thanks in advance Whiskey

When you have finished riding, turn the tap off and run the fuel level down in the float bowl before you stop the motor. Otherwise the evaporating fuel can make the float needle sticky. You may even have a passing fuel tap which could exacerbate this effect by allowing lots of premix to evaporate between rides. As for the lanyard killswitch, it can be wired in parallel with the standard kill button/switch, so the standard kill button/switch can stay. Maybe post a photo showing the "actual" slide switch you are asking about

I used some vasoline but crucially lay the bike on its side so gravity is assisting the rubber o ring from poping out .

Carb keeps overflowing when it sbeen standing for a while, weeks rather then days. I,ve tapped the float bowl with a piece of wood to help free up the float if its snagged in the carb but genrally makes no difffernce. After a bit of warming up as she starts really easy , it seems to stop overflowing but I could be wrong as it could be collecting oin the bash plate area. Any tips on curing this , what is the proper float height ? I've cleaned the needle valve and it appears to be sealing ok when the carb is off for testing. I need to fit a wrist lanyard as I think all trials call for these now , do you have to butcher the electrics to fit these as I would prefer to leave the switch gear for road legal uses shoud I got pulled by mr plod. Talkin of switchgear the actual thumb switch has lost the outer button that allows you to slide the switch on /off is there a mod I could do to allow the switch to be operated ith my thumb as opposed to a little screwdriver I am currently using to slide the flush part of the movable swith that is left on the switch gear. Thanks in Advance chaps

Two very good points that I had forgotten.

Just need a new air filter and shock buttom (rotten foam). New engine oil and coolant. Run perfect.

Amazing bike in amazing conditions.

Do Not wear loose baggy clothing and boot laces that can catch in the moving parts. Proper trials riding boots are every bit as important as a helmet considering your first crash will likely be at crawling speed. The boots also work great for rough terrain hiking and chainsaw work if you don't end up using them for riding.