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I want my 2024 sport to sound like Toni's 4 stroke torquer since I've been inundated with his impossible antics on Instagram. I love the one finger diaphragm clutch but to really get the feel of motor /flywheel inertia, I want a low frequency pop instead of the 'zing' sound which is mainly due to gear train noise. So I took a cheap 12VDC car alarm out of the trash and tapped it across two random AC motor phase leads, just for giggles. And predictably, it first smoked a little, probably the 50+ volts into 12 V circuit thing, no surprise. But then it kept working and would produce an ugly growly sound proportional to RPM. I'm not an Electrical Engineer but no doubt someone with circuit design savvy could use this tiny phase lead signal to trigger a proper .WAV file of a single gas bike pop and make a scalable frequency output to a piezo or a speaker. Has anyone done this? I expect it could have its own little battery. Heh, maybe even BT into my hearing aids. Just dreaming but would love to hear if anyone has done anything along these lines?

Thanks for all your help guys. I think I will have the crank overhauled as a result of this discussion.

Can you feel anything with a sharp-tipped scribe? A crack could explain the problem you are having. Another thing to consider is the history of the crankshaft. After repeated pressings, the pin/crankwheel interference fit can become too loose. If you have a dial indicator and a means of supporting the crankshaft, measuring the runout could tell if the crank wheels have shifted position,

No, doesn't appear to be looking through a magnifier.

Is that a crack?

There you go, it is not pressed all the on the one side

Hi all I guess this has been asked before I love the green colour of my Tr77 however the side panels are in pretty poor condition so I was thinking about replacing with pattern part's any help on the nearest to factory green would be appreciated, I'm leaving the tank as it's got some nice age related marks And the plan is just to clean it And then clear coat.. Cheers

Crank pin position

Not sure if you have sorted this out yet. It looks like a 1981/82 model to me. To be sure you could drop a line to In Motion Trials in the UK 01784 440033 and let them have the engine/frame number.

So I looked at your pictures. Show us how the pin sits in the crank from a side view. Most rods only needed 18 thousands clearance. Granted I have luckily not done a bul.

The service manual mentions 250cc - 360cc rod side clearance should be .022 - .024-inch (.55 - .60mm). Section 6 (16 pages) in the service manual is on rebuilding and alignment of the crankshaft.

Whenever I split a crank I always measure the width of the wheels so that I can be sure that the tolerance is the same when it goes back in, I have never seen that much clearance and would presume it needs pressing up a bit more. As Konrad observed he doesn't fiddle with antiques which is understandable as they often have unique measurements and need fiddling to get right. Good luck

I think this relates to your prior post about huge side-clearance on connecting rod. I have read about the washers on the piston pin, but have never seen a motor that used the technique. What struck me as odd, is that the big-end bearing itself seems to have a lot of clearance to the crank wheels and could walk from one side to the other. So, even though that motor may use washers on the piston pin for rod centering, it may still be that the crank wheels are too far apart. But this is all speculation on my part. I don't work on "antique" motors.

199A Rebuild progressed smoothly....until, the slightest tightening of the engine bolts and the ignition side crank flywheel is binding on the LH Crankcase. Main bearings are where they should be and the crank belongs to this motor. Any thoughts/suggestions please? Also the crank pin isn't flush with the crank halves, on the LH side which is fouling, it is recessed, on the other half it is very slightly proud. Should it not be flush on both sides?

battery pic.

sorry I wrote Bafang on the battery but instead it is a Talaria or Surron almost identical

Ciao, 1. the original controller crash itself ...i don't know the engeneerig install a 48 volt Kelly controller on 58.8 battery volttage when the max voltage of the controller is 60 volt! I substitude the original Kelly controller with similar KEB72801X at least 72 volt......$ 350 from company in Cina 2. the controller's fan run when you turn the main switch on ( no noise at hall ..very small use of energy ...inaff wind for cool down the aluminum plates 3.the performance improve is fantastic KLS7260RM ( racing sinusoidal ) see on Kelly Spec,,,,KLS-RM is a variant of standard KLS controllers. KLS-RM has greatly enhanced its peak current, which is suitable for motor application scenarios that require high starting current, which is suitable for motor application scenarios that require high starting acceleration, such as racing electric motorcycles. I will att.a PDF. 4. the project take only a day...you need to increase the lenght of the 3 phase motor wire, cut a small part of the support of rear fender,(i install the controller above the chassy see the above pictures) small mod on the plastic...a couple of hours...I keep the original cable controller and use the old female connector and solder the wires on it.(See next pictures) i follow the schematic on the new KLS and compare with the old KEB ( see on PDF schematic diagram) of course i spend at least 4 hours to change the parameter by the Bluetoot adapter for my ride attitude ( I was a Italian Champion on motorally in the old 1992 )so i like Power.....42 Kw peak for 1 minute.. 5.Total cost is the price of the New Kelly KLS7260RM plus DHL transportation and ItalianTax around 600 US $ 6.the seat is KTM freeride 7. of course i upgrade the battery also, the old battery was almost new compare with the age but to complicate to upgrade i installed a SURRON 67,2 Volt Battery with the BMS remuve and add an extra 67,2 volt 20 amp litium battery in parallel. 8. a clutch lever is for regenerative brake and also i use the beginner part of trottle (5%) for regenerative brake too 9. all the parameter are so easy to manipulate with the AC aduser app on cell phones... 10. I can't upload my PDF...see the Kelly manufactors for descriptions ..Ciao from Italy

Step 1 : Wash it !

Ciao! I think you should start a new thread describing technical details of your installation. Many of us would find it interesting. I would be curious to know: Had the old controller failed? How often does the controller's fan run? How did the performance improve? How long did the project take? Total cost? What seat is that? Did you upgrade the battery also? I see a clutch lever. How does that work?

The piston probably must be replaced, unless the seizure was very light. In which case, it's sometimes possible to sand the damaged area smooth again. But this is generally not advisable. If the cylinder damage is just aluminum transfer, it's possible to remove the aluminum with hydrochloric acid. But if any peeling of the plating has occurred, the cylinder must be re-plated. Note that the plating is very hard and a diamond hone must be used. A standard cylinder hone for iron won't work. It probably not possible to determine the extent of the damage from photographs. A local specialist should be consulted. But finding OSSA parts is not easy either. ☹️

I agree with you 100%, and incidentally, it's spelt sproCket. 😎

Ive been here a while, and also frequent a lot of other forums and I think it's fair to say people here are a lot more patient and helpful than on other forums. If someone has been talked down on its most likely because they've ignored some previous advice and are adamant they are right. Not saying it doesn't exist, and while the sites only real moderator doesn't seem to frequent the site very much if at all these days, IMO it is rare and certainly not something "a lot" of us are guilty of. Care to share specifically where you've seen this talking down?

In case cylinder is seized what measure would be more feasable and /or economic: Replacing cylinder and piston or overhaul cylinder?

Hello all, I've just bought a 2024 nitro 300. What spark plug should I run as I was told in my 2018 vertigo to run the hotter BPMR4A rather than the BPMR6A. Do you still need to do this on the newer bikes? Many thanks

That is fine. The spacers on the gudgeon pin keep the conrod in the middle.