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Thanks for posting the photos. Awesome bike! Regarding your problem with the photos: There is a limit you can post unless you’re a paying member. However, you can still post all the pictures you want if you link them to a posting website like Flickr or Imgur. Oh yeah, do you still have the fiberglass seat pan? I’d like to buy it if at all possible. Good luck!

I think I've posted too large of files in the post and photos above, perhaps? Something is keeping me from posting the newer photos I took yesterday. I get some sort of file limit size message. Anyway, I'm grateful for the opinions and help here on the matter of what tube to run. Thanks! Jimmie

Thanks for the info. I have direct access to Parts Unlimited and Western Powersports, both who sell carb rebuild kits and neither show that gasket. I remember for years guys would talk about replacing a similar gasket on the Keihin FCR carbs and many swore they didn't exist. Now you can get them no problem. So thanks again for the info. I ordered one and hopefully I will see a similar improvement

I'm planning to adapt this wheel to an AJP hub or mount the rim on the original hub to convert it to tubeless, like on the factory bike. The hardest part will be finding spokes at an affordable price. Alternatively, I could laser-clean the spokes and repaint them with Sprido epoxy. we'll see.

Yeah, I'll try to post a couple of photos. My phone and this laptop are currently "not on speaking terms", so maybe some old pics...... The picture of "the yellow bike" are after I first got the bike in May. I had to tear the motor out to repair a broken upper rear motor mount, so I repainted the frame white. This bike had A LOT of problems, issues, and stuff needing repaired and replaced. It still has a lot of stuff that needs addressing to be a reliable ride, but I'm slowly getting these things taken care of. Needs a front tire, shocks, handlebars, and other nagging little things. I put on a Clarke Racing white plastic tank to deal with rust and leakage issues). I replaced the cracked fenders. I have a new side panel (in white) coming, and just made a seat and seat base (very ugly stuff), and a very ugly skid plate, which I have no pictures of. I may try posting the newer pics from my phone, if possible...... Tr1AL, Thank You So Much for your help here. Think I'll go with the IRC heavy Duty tube, and hopefully, not have any issues with pinch flats........ Will try to add another newer pic later. Jimmie

Heavy duty 4.00 x 18

NOT in the parts book ! Take the 2 x security screws out of the jet tower/jet block and underneath it there is a 'D' shaped plastic gasket with three small 'o' shaped bits attached , that is what he is talking about . Ebay sells them , they come in gasket sets direct from CHINA. SEARCH IN 'PWK GASKET SET'

I have a Tube-Type IRC TR-011 tire ordered to replace the very old, cracking, and worn Dunlop on my 1974 TY250 project. Do most people run a "regular thickness" inner tube, or the thicker (and heavier) 3mm/"heavy duty" tubes? I don't like the weight of the heavier tubes, but hate pinch flats even worse, where I'd suppose the thicker tubes might be better in that department. I'll be running 2 rim locks. What is the reasonable tire pressure range for a tubed tire like this? Sorry for this question, but the only other experience I've had with Trials tires was on my 2010 Gas Gas 280, which was the tubless rear, and a Pirelli MT-43/Nuetech TUBliss on my old KTM 300. Thanks, Jimmie

What's with irc tyres nowadays...I haven't worn 2.75 lbs from the old one, but is is tubed v tubeless.

Italian wear !

I just saw that this was posted in the Beta section. Supposedly Beta has some sort of mod for their Keihin versions that eliminates or modifies the long overflow spout I mentioned.

What gasket are you talking about? I just looked at a parts diagram and the only 2 gaskets at all are the carb top and the float bowl. I know the floats themselves can get knocked out of whacked when removing/replacing the float bowl and that causes all kinds of weird issues. I have a 2024 300 and its a real pain to start sometimes. A lot of the time. Last night I went to start it and it wouldn't at all. Put a new plug in it, still wouldn't. Old plug was very wet. Did the old full throttle, no choke routine and it finally started. I never had this problem with my 2020 300. The newer ones have a very long overflow spout internally that I have read causes issues. I can't help but wonder if it being so long is allowing it to overflow into the motor before it goes out of the carb. Sorry, didn't mean to rabbit trail. So again, clarify which gasket you are referring to.

Don’t think you’ll find the original ‘Dunlop trials wellies’ pattern we all used but they still do one similar called Dunlop Acifort safety wellington boots. Google ‘ribbed safety wellingtons’ or similar and there’s a selection but those look nearest.

Wanted

Hello, can anyone tell me with total convincing conviction how you identify a mini majesty ? I always thought they had the straight twin frame tubes and th3 full size majesty had the curved tubes but there is a lot of conflicting opinions out there, it drives me a little bit crazy to know Thanks

As any Pre-65 is over 40 years old, I don't think it requires an MOT.

Blue mudguards with blue frame is PPG FORD GRABBER BLUE , the same as is used on Ford Mustangs. The White Frame with White mudguards blue is RAL SKY BLUE 5015 . I think the consensus is to use either PPG Torch Red DAR 74013 or FORD SUNBURST RED regarding that colour.

Hi, I wonder if anyone knows the RAL paint number for the Bultaco red and blue please? cheers Mark

The second mudguard with decals.

Engine was a CZ attempt but soon will be professionally converted to a TY175 engine 😎

Isn't that the Zundapp 125 engine ?

Nice one