All Activity

Ciao, 1. the original controller crash itself ...i don't know the engeneerig install a 48 volt Kelly controller on 58.8 battery volttage when the max voltage of the controller is 60 volt! I substitude the original Kelly controller with similar KEB72801X at least 72 volt......$ 350 from company in Cina 2. the controller's fan run when you turn the main switch on ( no noise at hall ..very small use of energy ...inaff wind for cool down the aluminum plates 3.the performance improve is fantastic KLS7260RM ( racing sinusoidal ) see on Kelly Spec,,,,KLS-RM is a variant of standard KLS controllers. KLS-RM has greatly enhanced its peak current, which is suitable for motor application scenarios that require high starting current, which is suitable for motor application scenarios that require high starting acceleration, such as racing electric motorcycles. I will att.a PDF. 4. the project take only a day...you need to increase the lenght of the 3 phase motor wire, cut a small part of the support of rear fender,(i install the controller above the chassy see the above pictures) small mod on the plastic...a couple of hours...I keep the original cable controller and use the old female connector and solder the wires on it.(See next pictures) i follow the schematic on the new KLS and compare with the old KEB ( see on PDF schematic diagram) of course i spend at least 4 hours to change the parameter by the Bluetoot adapter for my ride attitude ( I was a Italian Champion on motorally in the old 1992 )so i like Power.....42 Kw peak for 1 minute.. 5.Total cost is the price of the New Kelly KLS7260RM plus DHL transportation and ItalianTax around 600 US $ 6.the seat is KTM freeride 7. of course i upgrade the battery also, the old battery was almost new compare with the age but to complicate to upgrade i installed a SURRON 67,2 Volt Battery with the BMS remuve and add an extra 67,2 volt 20 amp litium battery in parallel. 8. a clutch lever is for regenerative brake and also i use the beginner part of trottle (5%) for regenerative brake too 9. all the parameter are so easy to manipulate with the AC aduser app on cell phones... 10. I can't upload my PDF...see the Kelly manufactors for descriptions ..Ciao from Italy

Step 1 : Wash it !

Ciao! I think you should start a new thread describing technical details of your installation. Many of us would find it interesting. I would be curious to know: Had the old controller failed? How often does the controller's fan run? How did the performance improve? How long did the project take? Total cost? What seat is that? Did you upgrade the battery also? I see a clutch lever. How does that work?

The piston probably must be replaced, unless the seizure was very light. In which case, it's sometimes possible to sand the damaged area smooth again. But this is generally not advisable. If the cylinder damage is just aluminum transfer, it's possible to remove the aluminum with hydrochloric acid. But if any peeling of the plating has occurred, the cylinder must be re-plated. Note that the plating is very hard and a diamond hone must be used. A standard cylinder hone for iron won't work. It probably not possible to determine the extent of the damage from photographs. A local specialist should be consulted. But finding OSSA parts is not easy either. ☹️

I agree with you 100%, and incidentally, it's spelt sproCket. 😎

Ive been here a while, and also frequent a lot of other forums and I think it's fair to say people here are a lot more patient and helpful than on other forums. If someone has been talked down on its most likely because they've ignored some previous advice and are adamant they are right. Not saying it doesn't exist, and while the sites only real moderator doesn't seem to frequent the site very much if at all these days, IMO it is rare and certainly not something "a lot" of us are guilty of. Care to share specifically where you've seen this talking down?

In case cylinder is seized what measure would be more feasable and /or economic: Replacing cylinder and piston or overhaul cylinder?

Hello all, I've just bought a 2024 nitro 300. What spark plug should I run as I was told in my 2018 vertigo to run the hotter BPMR4A rather than the BPMR6A. Do you still need to do this on the newer bikes? Many thanks

That is fine. The spacers on the gudgeon pin keep the conrod in the middle.

Just looking at a 199A Crank. No up and down movement in the big end but a lot of clearance side to side. Does this look normal?

I have just picked up a shed Beta Rev 3 in need of some love - but is 'running' - though missing parts like levers, kill switch, and rear brake seems empty of inop. Brave? Mad? Maybe... All I can guarantee is - I may well be asking, many, many questions!😁

A lot of you are dickheads, stop talking down to people, if someone posts, stop treating them like a ****

Ciao on 9/1/2025 I installed a Kelly KLS7260RM on Electric Motion 5.7 .....

Cheers John…..Answer your insta massage 😄

I used a bum bag for a couple of years but found they wriggle around too much. Last year I used a fender bag and it was nice to have the bike carry tools instead of me. They are a bit limited for room so you’ve got to be ruthless with what you put in them I don’t carry a drink for me but 250ml for the bike instead. The rucksack allows plenty of room for everything you need but it’s easy to go overboard and end up carrying too much weight, Make sure tools are wrapped in a cloth or something and don’t move, otherwise they’ll rub a hole in your back

So I’ve signed up for the Scott trial this year, and can’t decide whether to use my camelback rucksack or purchase a bum bag. All I plan on carrying is a drink, energy gels, tyre plugs & tool, few bolts, couple of Allen keys, phone. What are people’s thoughts on comfort/practicality between the 2? Edit - I’ve looked at fender bags, but they don’t offer a way of carrying a drink.

Hey man this looks great i’m about to start a project of my own, do you happen to have a photo of the exhaust and airbox as i don’t have one and can’t find any online so hoping to source one similar

Hi, I was poking around through the parts manuals and noticed that the 2021 300 One R uses an intake spacer between the reed cage and case. None of the newer 300s of any configuration runs one. It does seem that the 2021 250 and 280 run it as well. I know that use\d to be a trick back in the day to get more bottom end but why remove it? And on the same topic, I also noticed the the head insert for the 21 (&22) One R model is different than the newer ones. However the insert for the 21 & 22 One R is the same for the One RR. The newer One R inserts have new part number and are called low compression So my question is this: has anyone messed around with the reed insert, mainly removing it? And does anyone know if the 21 & 22 insert the same comp as the S3 hi comp one? S3 lists the same hi comp insert for all the 300s except the Gold Did any of that make sense?

Greenland motocross had one and i got the front disc from italy

Thanks.

This link shows the many Lifan engines produced: https://gzbawo.en.made-in-china.com/product-group/lqKanTtOOzcr/LIFAN-engine-1.html Search in your own country, but this is an example from the USA: https://www.amazon.com/CUBELLIN-200CC-250CC-Motor-Engine/dp/B0D81ZTJDH

Hi i dont really know the lifan motor. And the previous owners say its was 200cc. And i hav thinking just get another engine from gasgas 250ccm. If i fine it somewhere 🥴

You are probably not going to find much information about that enduro bike (?) on a trials forum. It appears to currently have a Lifan motor (which is a Chinese copy of the Honda XR100). Lifan built them in a variety of sizes up to about 200cc. You can measure the bore and stroke to determine its displacement. Have you considered that it will cost more to repair that bike than it will be worth?