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Also the case has no timing mark.

Today while riding I noticed leaking fuel hose, so I turned around and went home to change it ( the bike was running perfectly). I unmounted the fender and the tank, changed the fuel line and put everything back together. To my surprise it is not starting. Pulled out the plug (brick colour) and tested for spark, it had none. Checked the killswitch but that is working fine, cleaned all connections and still nothing. I did not touch the wiring when I changed the fuel hose. When checking the killswitch I measured around 13.7V so I suppose the alternator is all right. When I put my finger on the spark plug wire end I can feel a slight tingle. No idea why it would stop working so spontaneously. Please help with some ideas.

Thank you lemur, I have already changed the cylinder head seals (twice)...still blowing white smoke and coolant level going down - cracked cylinder or cylinder base gasket?

Hi Welsh Lad, Mine is doing the same, what was the solution?? Thanks, Joel

Assuming the head gasket is leaking into the water jacket, typically that would force coolant out of the cooling system because combustion pressures are so much higher than coolant system pressure, it would be unusual for coolant to be forced or drawn into the combustion chamber during operation and more likely to leak coolant into the combustion chamber when it is not running. Raw coolant might collect in the exhaust system and that will not steam or evaporate until your exhaust temperatures are very high. I think you are looking for signs of coolant disappearing. Anti-freeze has a distinct odour and that should be another tell.

Rule of thumb is white smoke is produced by burning coolant.

I have recently replaced cylinder head seals and the bike is still blowing white smoke - more as it heats up. The idle is also surgy/lumpy and irregular with a throttle over run...are these things connected? What else could be causing the white smoke? Thanks!

True, but my TRS is hard to start on burgers.

I had to do a double check, but my 200 has definitely not got reed valve.

Only things "old" in a trick bantam are the engine casings, barrel and a few other internals! Rest is all brand new. Not saying that's wrong same goes for my c15. Trick bantams perform very well Later fantic engines had reed valve but not sure what year from and whether the 200 ever did. You can see the mounting on the inlet

Did you find out how to test the motor directly? We have a 20r with no power. When we move the throttle the wheel moves so slow and it can be stopped with the hand. So I would also like to test the motor.

I did not realize that XT225 = Ty250 offset until I found it on line. I only had the XT225 sprocket.

If you had an OEM sprocket to measure, why did you not just compare it with the one causing the issue on the bike?

I've forgotten how the response compares; it was a very fine difference. I just like the Domino for it's quality feel and stronger return spring. As you say free play is OK, I assume you bought direct from an EM dealer. I bought mine (much cheaper) from a different source. Moving the pot 1 tooth wasn't enough and 2 teeth was too much I ended up going 2 teeth and trimming a bit off the closed-stop to get it right. Quite a lot of work but it's lovely now.

Meat is plant-based too. Cows eat grass. 😇

You can readily ride a twin shock in a normal trial, and generally you can also ride a modern bike in a classic trial (though many clubs have a minimum age for the rider). If you're starting off on the easy route, you'll find it's the same severity on both types of trial. I think you need to be an old-bike fan to have a twin-shock or pre-65. Otherwise you just find yourself wishing for something better/newer/more modern. I had a twin-shock for a short while because it seemed the sensible thing to do as I was riding mainly classic club's trials. I quickly changed back to a modern.

Thanks for that. I did find that manufacturers list an XT225 sprocket as having the same offset as a TY250 sprocket and happened to have one from an XT. The sprocket that came on the TY has about 5 mm too much offset. I did some measuring and my numbers are slightly different from yours but also found that different manufacturers (on Amazon) list minor differences in sprocket thickness. That seems odd.

Yes, very much so. Most industrial products like paint and so on have (or their ingredients) been tested on animals at some point. Which is much more unpleasant than just eating them.

It was only a joke 😊 Maybe a sense of humour isn't "Vegan Friendly" Seriously though, it is hard to know what complies to these sort of requirements, as animal products can be found in all sorts of manufactured items, and getting an honest answer from a manufacturer could be difficult. Some stuff is obvious - leather etc. , but adhesive etc. is not obvious at all and would need research if it's that important to you

The standard offset is 4.8mm

Yes original is aluminium. I'll measure the offset on an original sprocket

Well when mine went the dealer said he knew exactly what was needed and the parts were already in stock and he had done them before. My TRS dealer helped me install the parts in a hurry because we wanted to go riding.

My lads Rev 50 was due a plug change, I removed the old one NGK B5SH. A quick google indicates it should be a NGK B9ES. My issue is the thread is longer but does fit ok with hitting the piston but it also seems to rev a lot higher on tick over. Were these swapped for any reason or has previous owner just fitted an odd plug? And why would it rev a lot higher on ticker over? Any help or info would be much appreciated.

Has anyone noticed a change in the throttle response after switching from the magura? My impression is the domino makes the bike softer, almost like you don't quite get the full throttle. Free play is setup ok