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I am a Reiger importer and service agent in Australia and you are correct that it does need a special tool / fitting to charge the shock (2 pieces actually). You can email me at The Hell team if you want some more information. TRS have only used R16V and Reiger shocks, they have not used Ohlins on any of their models. They use a number of different Reiger models. The ones on the ONE R have adjustable compression and rebound, and use a clevis connection at the lower end. The RR models have hi and low speed compression adjustment, and rebound adjustment, and a clevis connection at the lower end. And the GOLD series use the bigger bodied B40 shock with hi and low speed compression adjustment, rebound adjustment and Hydrastop adjustment, and a spherical bearing connection at the lower end. The Ohlins on the GG has spherical bearing connections both ends, and is a slightly different free length. TRS 265mm, GG 279mm, so not compatible. (at least not without some work and parts replacement). And the Ohlins is no were near as good as the Reiger (even the base model) IMHO.

So I have a 2021 300 OneRE with a Reiger shock. Thing actually works pretty decent. The other night I decided to service it and seeing I owned a suspension business for 20 years I saw no problem in just digging into it. Wrong. It needs a specialized fitting to charge the nitrogen which seems to be impossible to obtain. Does anyone have access to this and any other tools needed? Or.....does anyone know what other shocks fit on it without any issue? I heard Ohlins once came on them but I haven't been able to confirm that. I can get a brand new Ohlins off of the 2020 Gas Gas for a pretty cheap price and it seems as though so many of the bikes share the same dimensions. But this just speculation. Has anyone put any other shock on a TRS?

Yesterday I tried my new TRS One RR and I liked it a lot. If anything wrong should be found the gearbox is a bit hard. Perhaps it's because it's brand new and needs some break in time.

Phbl is probably the easiest. And it is actually better in some ways than the PWK. Otherwise you will need different connections. Air box to carb and maybe intake. Hopefully someone that has done it will chime in. We are talkining a 3 decades old design.

Grew up around electricity and electronics, it's a passion. But in this case this is why I always like to buy my trials bikes in pairs, makes troubleshooting a no brainer 😆

It's a rare individual who reports back. Honestly, if more users did so, I'd be more willing to offer suggestions. I admire your willingness to help, lemur.

Lots of info there but that fella never returned to say what the problem was.

its not the gear on kickstarter...its the gear it turns

Google the BMCA it’s a British trials club. They hold events from autumn to spring most weekends. As for the cub and choice of bike it’s up to you but I wouldn’t touch anything other than a bantam to ride competitively. Everything else I’ve had like cubs and C15s are too heavy which really makes a difference on an old bike. Ignore the purists who still think it’s 1973 and everything should cost no more than 5 quid and never ride a trial. I have a 500 rigid AJS I occasionally ride which is as close to original as I can get and they still moan. Get a bantam, you won’t regret it! Rich

Fit the correct plug, its probably running better at tick-over as the plug is in the correct place for combustion the B5HS is also a lot hotter plug than a B9ES see link: https://www.ngk.com/what-is-a-spark-plugs-heat-range-2#:~:text=Whether the plug is to,°C–850°C.

I recently purchased a 1998 315R with the Dellorto PHBH carburetor. The bike was pretty much a stock unit and I've been updating over the past year. She now runs well with a new clutch, rebuilt F&R suspension, recent piston, good gas, a fresh plug and a clean air filter. A new reed is on the short list. No performance complaints however I hear that a carburetor upgrade will take the bike from good to better. There are several opinions scattered across the forum as to which is the best upgrade. Some offer the later PHBL as the best choice while OKO, Keilin and Mikuni are also tossed about. So my question is three-fold: 1. Was the PHBH never a really a good carburetor and should be replaced ? 2. If the PHBH should be replaced, will the PHBL be sufficient or is the OKO, Keilin or Mikuni the best investment of time and money ? 3. Will there be a noticeable return for the upgrade effort ? Thanks in advance for your thoughts and comments, tj carr

Hi all I have been trying to fit a master cylinder repair kit but do know where the small spring is for.Thanks.

Do you mean kick start idler gear ? FYI there are not a lot of engine parts shared between the Evo 4t and Evo 2t

I’m learning this slowly. Was speaking to someone today regarding Cubs who was saying the same.

Hello. I have some problems with my son's beta rev3 50ccm jr bike. The bike gets very hot after some riding. I notice that the fan is not working. I tested with a 12v battery connected to the fan and it works as it should. I made a loop on the thermostat cable. I measure 21v input on the generator when the bike is running, but 0v out to the fan. Could it be the generator? Is 21v input correct?

You don't have to have a Drayton to have a good Bantam . I am coming back to trials after a few years off due to a shoulder injury . I built 2 x Draytons and sold them and I am now putting a Bantam together which has a modified front loop a trials sub frame and wider swing arm which is the same as my original Bantam . There are some good Bantam riders out there who are not on Drayton or Whitton bikes , nothing wrong with either it's just a well sorted Bantam doesn't have to have a "name" on the tank .

hey guys, is the idle gear for a evo 4t 2009 different to a 2t. im trying to locate one if anyone knows any for sale..its for my 300 4t

How old is your spark plug cap? Service manuals indicate a short life for resistor plug caps and recommend a fairly frequent scheduled replacement.

Cut that spark plug wire 1/2 inch to some fresh wire and try again.

Did you already read "Sherco Ignition Timing Manual Supplement" at least you can see where the timing make is suppose to be. Personally I doubt there is a problem with the timing. Continuity meter test of the ignition timing pickup coil would be in order, the timing pickup initiates the spark which is intensified by the ignition module and the ignition coil. Service manual will show resistance values you should see on the wires connected to the ignition module inputs. The rectifier/regulator should only be needed for the fan motor and possibly lights and that is the only place you should read DC power of roughly 12 volts, everything else will be AC. Based on the photos you have some work to do on the spark plug wire and cap, everything downstream of the ignition module to the plug cap can also be meter tested for continuity.

Fantics weren't produced with reeds until the 5 series, last air-cooled monos, which was about '89

Also the case has no timing mark.