All Activity

So are you 🤣

Try richard allen. Allens used trials spares on fb

Really, you guys are replying to a 4 year old post? Lol

Poor mans bleed tool:

I’m after some beta Evo fork legs if anyone has any for sale? Must be good condition , dorset cheers

For as Such as this is the Strengthen of your faith...did ye get yer clutch sorted..im in that trial right now

I did wonder if an o'ring would work better.

From what I've seen on my 2021 and 2023 bike, a rubber band or o-ring might even last longer. imo the springs need to become available individually or it's impractical to own them. That's what I will be telling my dealer and ya'll that own one should consider doing the same.

My bike started to make a clunking stop rather than the usual whiz a few months ago and finally started to make horrible noises trying to start. Traced it to the free wheel bearing an mentioned above. The bearing was in good condition but the spring had stretched. Simple fix. Take the side case off, undo the centre bolt and pull the starter gear out and it's there. No need to remove the flywheel. 10 minute job. £40 for the replacement but it would be easy to just change the spring if you can get it. It's the same sort of spring as used in bearing seals but without knowing the original length it could be difficult to get it right. If your bike starts clunking on stopping I'd suggest replaceming before it gets worse. No sign of an other damage on mine but you never know, it could damage the other bearing surfaces.

I think the problem is you don't realize how frequently the motorcycle carburetor needs service and once you start breaking parts inside there you are looking at replacement parts or a new carburetor. No it won't matter if the carb is dry or full when you leave it sit because all of the fuel will evaporate out anyway since the float bowl is vented to the atmosphere. There are no 'extra springs' in a carburetor that can be left out without impacting performance. Running more oil in the fuel then called for will result in additional unburnt oil residue clogging up your exhaust system faster. You can physically test a carburetor float bowl valve operation with only the float bowl removed, raise the float with your finger and watch the fuel flow or stop flowing when you lift the float with your finger, it operates on the same principal as a toilet. Taking obvious safety precautions with fuel spill. Idle adjust screw is always the one that pushes the throttle slide higher, low speed fuel or air adjustment screw will be the one 'not' located directly in the middle of the carburetor slide. The adjustment you will likely need to visit most is not the screws which affect only low rev operation but rather the cir-clip position on the main jet needle which adjusts for lean to rich adjustment through 1/3rd to full throttle operation.

I forgot to say that i took apart the carburetor some years ago and cleaned it. So this evening i took off the carburator to check it. Big was my suprise when i was to drain the float valve chamber and there was absolute no fuel at all in the float chamber. The float valve was stuck. So then i took the carburator to a friend of mine that is repairing motor bikes and he first loosened the float valve but he also said the spring on the float valve was sticking out to far. So he tried to shorten it by re-fasten the 2 tiny small brass parts that hold the spring in the float valve but one of the small brass fasteners broke off so he took off the spring since it will work without the spring. After he fixed the float valve he checked the rest of the carburator. I guess the float valve was stuck because the carburator have been standing dry for a long time. Note that when i took the carburator apart a few years ago i managed to pull out the tip on the float valve, so i just put the tip back in the float valve and put the carburator back on the bike. But if i remember correct i did check if the float valve chamber had fuel it after i have had the carburator apart which it did. I guess that the fact that i pulled the tip of the float valve out can be the resason for this problem as well? I guess it is not good to let the bike stand parked for a long time without any fuel in the carburetor or what do my fellow members here think about that? So when i came back home i put the carburator back on the bike, gave it a couple of sprays with fuel using the spray bottle and the bike started really easy and works runs great now 😊😊 Since it was late i just wanted to make sure the bike ran proper. The only work i had to do was to adjust the idle a little bit. I really hope the bike starts just as easy when i put the airbox with air filter back on the bike. Great if it starts as easy as it did today when i gave the carburator i couplle sprays with fuel 😊😊 I will order a new float valve just in case. I need new anti freeze as well since i have not checked if there is enough or any coolant on the bike. I really do not feel for driving the engine to hot so i will change the anti freeze before use the bike.

Your colored arrows are correct. Dellorto PHBL 26 mixture screw is typically about 4 turns out from fully seated. The pilot jet (and possibly starter jet too) is plugged from sitting for years with old premix. Usually, spray carb cleaner is insufficient. You need to clean the jet by passing a fine wire through the orifice. But the diameter is critical, so I use pin gauges for that job. Some people are uncomfortable using that method and should replace the jet(s) instead.

I got the shock out - for future searches, use a flat head screwdriver under the bottom of the shock and pry it upwards. You don’t need to remove the bushes.

I have an 2005 Gas Gas TXT 125 Pro that i have been standing since 2017 without being started. I tried to start the bike today but it would not start. The first thing i did was to check the for spark (which is okay) After that i took off the airfilter box and rear fender. I found an old hand pump spray bottle which i poored gasoline with 3% oil mixture in thinking of spraying fuel in to the carburettor. I am aware that it is supposed to be 2% but since the bike have not been started for a long time i decided to use 3% oil mixture. So the first time i tried to start the bike i sprayed in 2 spray pumps with fuel from the the spray bottle. This was enough that the biked was about to start but stopped. On the second try i sprayed in 6 or 7 pumps of fuel using the spray bottle and the bike started really easy and ran for a little over 10 seconds before it stopped. I wonder if the settings both for the air/fuel mixture is wrong after i had the carburettor apart? I hope that some here on the forum can help me with the standard settings for the fuel/air mixture and also the standard setting for the idle screw. I seem to remember that the air/fuel mixture is to screw the air/fuel mixture all the way in and the turn it back out about 1 and 1/2 turn back but i want to check that for sure so i hope some here on the forum can help me out. When i use the hand pump and spray in about 7 pumps of fuel the bike runs great for about 10 seconds before it stops. So this is a fuel issue. Since i do not remember for sure which of the screws on the picture of the carburettor is the fuel/air mixture screw and which is the idle screw? See the picture below where i have marked what i think is the fuel/air screw with a yellow arrow and what i think is the idle screw with a red arrow.

Oh that’s a shame, thanks for the info anyway. I’ll just have to look for something else, cheers

Scalvini stopped making them 5 or 6 years ago. H&D Racing used to stock them when they were available. There maybe an odd used one around but do not think many were made.

Hi, Trying to get my bike trial ready again after a 10 year lay-off. How do you remove the rear shock on an SY250? I'm assuming once the bolt is out, both external spacers need to come out before the internal ones can be knocked out of the swing arm bracket. But could be completely wrong. I've removed the external spacer on one side, but on the other it's completely stuck - not sure what to try aside from WD40, hammer etc Any help would be appreciated. Cheers, NJ

Try tytrials.com they have parts diagrams for tlr 200, not certain which part you need but may be helpful. Maybe try feked.com too if you haven't already https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-tl125s-england_model50576/partslist/0036.html

Hi, I have a 1976 TL125S and I have been looking for a middle arm that forms the pivot joint in the rear foot brake assembly. I have tried far and wide to get NOS or used part. Does anyone know if another part might fit or can be modified to do the job? Thank you

After the first lap of section one in the rain here yesterday, mud trashed one steep run-up to the point that nothing was working for anyone, a bucket or two of crushed stone might have made it ridable again, I was very tempted to do roadwork after everybody completed their first loop 😆 but that just didn't seem right so we just crashed there lots instead.

No, only had 3 in it. What I meant was, compared to my 2 Stroke trials bike (Gas Gas at the time) I just couldn’t get the hang of getting traction on wet muddy banks. It would lose traction, then I would be stuck, and it was heavy. Plus compared to a ‘proper’ trials bike, the high seat really didn’t help in those situations. Just saying, I would love to try a proper Mont trials bike (4rt) for a while but would seriously question whether it’s a good idea in place of an ‘easier to ride in the slop’ 2T here in the southern UK… Id like to add, it’s great to be able to generally chew the fat and ask/receive knowledge and casual opinions on Trials Central. On the Facebook ‘groups’ it’s hard to ask anything without getting a barrage of opinionated and mostly irrelevant comments whenever you start a thread. Add to that you have to use your ‘proper name’, it’s easy to get a load of ‘he said, he did, I know better than you’ contributors haunting your profile. I much prefer proper forums like this that are less personal and more topical. Long may it serve.. 👌

Results are not up yet but the weekend was a blast 👍 bugs were replaced by rain for the main event making it a total $%^&show in section one but everybody seemed to have great fun and that's what counts. Many thanks to all who supported and attended the event, our next provincial round here is July 20-21

Sounds like you need to let about 12 PSI out of your rear tire. The bike with you on it should provide better traction.then when you are walking in your boots.

Phew, glad it’s not just me…. I’d have them all if I had the space and money! Hard work when it’s one at a time….. 😉