All Activity

I'm waiting a new conrod to finish the engine. All new bearings, seals, original piston Gilardoni, original new cylinder, new rings, new clutch ... all new engine ! 🥰

Tech supposedly makes a shock to fit the Gold model TRS

Rumor has it the spring is the same kind of spring used in oil seals. Now if we can just find a source for those at a bearing supply store instead of a motorcycle shop 👍

How many are rentals?

UPDATE: Thanks to a member on the FB TRS Owners Group I have discovered that instead of replacing the entire £42 bearing race on a 2022 bike of approx 100 hours, it should have been possible to replace only the garter spring part no 52902 (labelled No 15 in the exploded diagram on the TRS website) at a fraction of that cost. It seems that this spring is available on European TRS websites at 2,15 Euros but is not available as a part option on the SXS UK website. Do I have this information correctly, because if so I will buy it abroad if there is a next time! Just a heads-up for UK owners. I have written to SXS with this comment.

The mud was a big thing for me when I first got my 07 Montesa 250 as I was in western WA in the US and most of the time it was wet because of rain trees and included all kinds of wet leaves and stuff on the ground I had to ride in. I had two riding buddies at the time and both on 2T Gas Gas's and I didn't have any trouble riding with them. It was different and I started my trials on the Montesa as my first bike so that might have helped but never had any trouble with traction and keeping up with them and progressing. Move to Idaho a number of years ago now so had to re-learn how to ride on dry sticky rocks... was quite the adjustment. What ever way you go, good luck making the call!

Importer justifying what they ordered. Why did you order bikes with steel fork stanchions? ... to keep the front end down 🤣 Because somebody is renting a whole bunch of other brand bikes for people to ride?

Slippery mud is unfortunately a major consideration in this part of the world, if it wasn’t for that worry there would probably be a Montesa or Beta 4T in the garage already - and I think the Montesa is edging it in this discussion purely because of the fuel injection for me over the carbed Beta 4T….

The steel fork tube story came from the importer. Not me. But I have a theory why only 9% of the riders in this years Scottish are on a TRRS!

My son loved his Beta 4T. We ride from 2500 ft to 13000 ft elevation. So alot of jetting is required. Carb work is a bitch on the Beta 4 stroke, besides the manifold rubber breaks alot. When he got rid of his TRRS (which he bought, since I talked him into it) and fancied a return to a 4 stroke Beta he eneded up with a Montesa 300 RR.

It is kind of a thing over here - you’re really ‘left field’ and out there if you don’t ride a 2 stroke Beta or maybe a Gasser if you don’t like the sharp turning angle. I had a Beta Evo 200, it was a nice bike but I felt way more suited to my Gas Gas. But I’m really enjoying riding an older Fantic 200 I have in trials and so was considering a Mont or poss 4T Beta as a bike for some easy trials, some trail riding with a long distance kit, a bit of observing. And because I’ve got a monkey on my shoulder about trying a 4T and then either enjoying it or getting it out of my system! To be fair, a sharp wind could blow me in the direction of a ‘23 or newer Gas Gas which would be my ideal bike for purely trials progression but I just fancy trying something different and a bit more versatile for a while.

Take a look at the bike count at this years Scottish for your answer of which bike to ride. Myself if all I rode was wet, it would be a 2 stroke Beta 250. The 4 stroke works well too. Beta 87 Gas Gas 2nd with 47 Vertigo 47 Montesa 30 Scorpa 27 TRRS 26 Sherco 24 P.S. I really love my Montesa. But we ride big dry rocks most of the time. If I ever change brands again it would be a Beta.

If the Canadian Trials Initiative was to drop coin to create a CMA sanctioned club in support of a national race series and provide all the things we would require to host events, sign me up. If it's just another obstacle to scheduling, insuring, marshalling and processing the events well 🤨 darn

Cant comment on 4rt but I've had 3 beta 4ts. Beautiful engine, the 300 pulls like a tractor, from p!onking along right through rev range and in any gear. 4stroke is a marmite thing so love them some don't. Factory much better due to better suspension/braking, personally i always fit an amal 80/200 throttle as i find the standard too fast. Bikes grips v well but you do need to ride different to 2 stroke. As mentioned above, less blipping and more of a steady throttle. If you add a bosi arrow silencer the sound is fantastic, not needed and expensive but v nice. Never had any need to adjust valve clearances or even to remove carb. Starting from hot or cold is fine once you get the nack.

I don't generally step up to host a national unless nobody else is doing one. Best luck with your Victoria B.C. event, wish I could afford the travel time and several thousands of $ it would cost me to ride it. Hopefully you will see sufficient attendance to substantiate all of the rider classes, very much unlike the last Saskatchewan national where rider participation was pathetic.

The 4RT valves are easy to adjust once you can get to them, you will need to lower the front of the engine to do it easier. It has screw adjusters and not bucket and shims. The screw adjuster head is square and the same size as a red #2 Robertson head screw so you can improvise a tool to adjust the valves with a short stick of wood and a #2 Robertson screw in the end of it. Exhaust valve clearance is most critical because the cam shaft has a very small automatic decompressor built into it and that will stop functioning once the valve clearance is off.

I wouldn't be put off by the occasional need to do a bit of valve adjustement...

Can't say I ever had any problem replacing the inexpensive oil filter on a Montesa 4RT that can be purchased at any Honda dealer, not sure what people are finding difficult about that. The most complex service you are ever likely to need to do on every one of them is to adjust the valve clearances after about 3 to 5 years of operation. You will know it needs the valves adjusted when one day it becomes hard to impossible to start.

Sounds like the scene in Worlds Fastest Indian where Burt Monro tried adding lead weight to the front of his motorcycle to improve handling. If you haven't seen the movie, the extra weight theory was a fail.

At least the wheels and forks, which include the calipers and triple tree. If you plan on keeping the bike forever, I always antisieze the spoke nipoles too. Sounds xtreme until you start breaking spokes.

Update on my earlier post re my TRS starter mechanism making a loud knock as it comes to a stop. Forum advice (thank you, everybody!) suggested replacing the sprag (non-return/ freewheel) bearing which was supplied promptly by Steve Saunders SXS in Gloucestershire. The fault which develops is that the spring holding the pawls in the race stretches. A great shame that this design has not been improved and also that you cannot buy just the spring – the original bearing and pawls are still perfect with no sign of wear or stress. However what was not mentioned in the advice was that two of the pawls escaped from the bearing race whilst in transit and my ageing eyesight failed to detect that each pawl has striations on the outer surface that all need to face in the same direction – otherwise the bearing will grip in both directions, where it should only grip when rotated anti-clockwise. It took my son-in-law’s keen eyes to spot my error and it would have been a lot easier had I known what to look for in the first place. Hope this post might help somebody else in the future.

Update on my post re my TRS starter mechanism making a loud knock as it comes to a stop. Forum advice (thank you, everybody!) suggested replacing the sprag (non-return/ freewheel) bearing which was supplied promptly by Steve Saunders SXS in Gloucestershire. The fault which develops is that the spring holding the pawls in the race stretches. A great shame that this design has not been improved and also that you cannot buy just the spring – the bearing and pawls are still perfect with no sign of wear or stress. However what was not mentioned in the advice was that two of the pawls escaped from the bearing race whilst in transit and my ageing eyesight failed to detect that each pawl has striations on the outer surface that all need to face in the same direction – otherwise the bearing will grip in both directions, where it should only grip when rotated anti-clockwise. It took my son-in-law’s keen eyes to spot my error and it would have been a lot easier had I known what to look for in the first place. Hope this post might help somebody else in the future.

You may have a 348 cover on your bike that has been cut down as they are the same dimensions...

38 pilot jet ...not good. Need more! (original 35) The replacement air filter foam is “lighter” than the original Montesa. The engine therefore breathes much more air.

Mitani alloy clutch +250grs