SWM

Well just when you think you have done everything correctly during a strip down to help with the rebuild fate throws a spanner in the works.....like knocking over my temporary storage bench whilst parts are drying AND deleting strip down photos...doh! I now have all the front and rear axle assembly parts all mixed up, I can seperate most of the parts (most!) and but their 'as built' order is also hopelessly lost. Would anyone have a drawing/ photo of front and rear axle assemblies? Many thanks

Does anyone know where I can get swing arm bearings or silent blocks for my 1980 TL? They are od 30mm x id 14mm x 44mm long.

As the title...do the earlier rear brake plates fit the later non-cush drive hub? I'm after a rear brake plate and cam to refurb' and have found one off an early Gori cush drive model. cheers as always

Just put new points and condensor on now the bike now it won`t start. I am getting a good spark but all i get is an occasional backfire from the bike. Anybody got any ideas why it won`t start ?

Does anybody have a colour or RAL code number for the swm yellow paint or one that’s a good match many thanks

Hey everybody finally got a cable from Martin for my decompression valve on my Rotax 320 but my brain won’t figure out how to get that valve hooked up to that cable as the valve wants to be squeezed and the cable wants to pull I know it’s simple I just don’t get it is there anyone who could take a picture of theirs or explain? Many thanks in advance Tarik

I've got a copy of the US (I think!) importers user manual that came with my Speedy, sort of real world set-up guide. It's not much, a few pages but does a decent job of describing some of the maintenance jobs and set up from actual useage. Quite amusing in places too. If anyone wants a copy I'll scan and post to site.....if I can work my new fangled printer/copier from hell...it means I may need to read the 'destructions' and for a man this will be the ultimate embarassment! Seasons greetings, see you at Butley and the Dabbers.

Meant to pass this on earlier. Did a classic trial last weekend and one of the guys who stopped for a chat about Speedy, had two SWM TL320's from new, bought from kershaws in Essex. He told me that back the in day he used clutch springs from a Honda MT50 moped....was a common mod' back then? Just thought I'd throw that into the SWM melting pot of 'clutch fixes'.

Hi guys i have an oil capacity in my users manual (US market I believe) but no oil weight, any recomendations? Do these zokes respond to differing air gaps? ....just a thought, I'm assuming these are damper rod forks being this old? As usual any help welcome

need to give my rotax crankcases a tidy up , whats the best option on primers ,paints etc

Ran the bike around yesterday in my woods and its great, lovely super grunty engine that will plonk along at incredibly low revs. Brakes are good now they have bedded in and set up with help from this forum. She's rides tight, light and bright, quick steering but stable too, Starts first kick after priming her on the decompressor. She doesnt feel her 34 years old. Rear suspension is very stiff indeed though after my Beta REV3. She has Sammy Miller gas shocks on 50lb springs which may need changing to 40lb springs or less! Clutch is light but to erradicate all drag Ive no adjustment left on my cable....whats the form on setting up the clutch adjuster screw and should i…

I have found this to fit perfectly once the locating tabs around the carb mating face are gently ground away with a dremel or similar, my pic shows after grinding/shaving. It suits a 40 mm spigot diameter which is what one wants for the 28mm Dellorto fitted to the Jumbo which has the factory fitted machined sleeve to take it from 36mm to 40mm OD, the distance from barrel to carb is spot on and 75mm between fixings. https://www.jetsrus.com/individual_parts/002_052_su.html

Can anybody tell me the correct length of the fork springs as fitted to the 38mm Betors on a SWM Jumbo ? Tony

I have a set of OZO shocks on my SWM TL320. They aren’t leaking oil but are very springy/bouncy. They have shrader valves can i fill them with air? If so how much? I know you’re supposed to fill with nitrogen but I have a trials this weekend and no way to get that done right now. But the air would be temporary. Thanks

Any one any ideas how to wire up the horn electrics on a 320TL 1980's. I have the original horn and there are two spare wires available on the loom. These are coloured yellow and yellow with black stripe. What I really need to know is are these two wires connected directly to the horn or is one of them connected via a switch to earth. Any help appreciated. John

Hi all. Right I’m going to throw a grenade in here on this subject. Stock jetting is pilot 60, main 90 X2 needle and 70 slide, this we all mainly know. Right here comes the grenade. I’m running 52 pilot and 85 main to get my plug looking anything like how it should, I’ve gone right through the carb, float needle, float height, new needle, new atomiser, new choke plunger. On stock jetting the bike simply over fuels and the consumption is quite high. We’ve had this problem with another SWM and also a TX311 and in both cases the problem is solved by leaning the jetting. All the bikes pick up a lot better and do rev out ok. A 70 slide is lean and I believe by using a 60/90 se…

Hi all, just a bit more info that might help you all out with dragging clutches. As you are aware if you read my other posts, I fitted an Aprilia TX311 clutch hub to my 83 TL320. That along with the 12mm ball bearing conversion did make a huge difference. However, I recently came across a new steel internal clutch arm (the one with the kit is cast aluminium and difficult to extend) which I extended by 10mm, this again made the clutch pull a tad lighter. when riding the bike in practice or events I noticed the clutch developed a bit of drag, not enough to stall the bike but enough to make finding neutral a pain while waiting in turn at a section. I initially thought thi…