overdale

The Evo Factory models -at least my son's 2011 Factory 300, had special red aluminium washers to tension the clutch springs. These washers are top hat shaped, a larger diameter brim and a smaller diameter body, By turning them over you can adjust the tension of the clutch springs. Take one off and have a look if you have genuine parts. If the flat brim is towards the spring (with the smaller diameter section visible next to the bolt head) you get maximum tension. If the smaller diameter goes inside the spring, it does not compress the spring so much so you get minimum tension. See photograph attached, zoom in and you can see that the top hat has the brim towards the spring for maximum tension on my son's 300. It is easy to try them all (or alternate ones) in the other position and see the results.

This arrangement has just appeared with the 2017 models and is not an additional vent for the fuel tank. If you look at the pdf attached, the o-ring of the fuel tank cap sits in the recess at the top of the thread in the fuel tank, and that drain/vent connection is above the sealing face. The drain pipe goes down under the left hand side panel and is open ended. I think that the arrangement is maybe for some EU directive to allow any fuel/ mist to go down the pipe rather than spray into your eyes if you remove the cap if their is any pressure in the tank. Just a thought! 2017 Beta Evo fuel tank cap..pdf

The problem with taping the number to the headlight is that often the tape partly obscures the number, the number is distorted by the shape of the light, and once dirty it cannot be cleaned. Just think of the observer if you want to get the correct score! In East Yorks Centre all clubs agreed that transparent plastic number boards should be fitted so that the number can be clearly seen and wiped if dirty.

Thanks to “northyorkie” for bringing this to the attention of Trials Central supporters, I’m surprised that such a prestigious event, which was part of the SDMC National Trial weekend didn’t include a report with results and pictures on the Supertrial, especially as this was also a round of the British Supertrial Championships. As you say, this was also a major result for the Peace brothers as the whole family has put in a lot of dedication, effort, expense (and van engines!) in the UK and abroad to achieve this level of performance to get the results and go some way to repay the support of those who sponsor them. It’s a great result to get three East Yorks Centre riders in the top four to show the level of ability that the riders from this Centre have achieved. From all accounts, the Club is to be commended for a successful weekend as they had put a great deal of work into preparing for both National events. Attached are the results of the Supertrial and some pictures supplied courtesy of John Watson. If anyone else has some photos of the event, lets get them out there and give the lads the exposure they deserve. Scarborough Supertrial Results 040617.pdf

You'll notice that the washer is cup shaped, the bottom of the cup is just a clearance diameter over the fork stanchion, the top is much larger diameter as it goes against the underside of the fork seal. It goes in just that way so that the small diameter sits against the top of the top bush to hold it in place, and the seal sits against the larger diameter. So basically, when the seal is in position with the clip fitted, the bottom of the seal holds the washer in place which in turn keeps the bush in position. Hope this helps!

The standard master cylinders on the Beta are Grimeca, so make sure the kit you bought has "for Grimeca" on the label. I think that Jitsie and Apico have them so marked, then they will fit properly without the use of any glue! Hope this helps!

The 09 was the Evo where some of the frames cracked near the headstock but usually only if stressed probably by the more active rider. I think it was the bare aluminium frame with the fuel filler off-centre, if you have the one with the fuel cap on the centreline, the frame has been renewed or it's a later model and should be trouble free. Any cracks on the older frames can be welded up with the correct procedures. Usually the Evos are very good on fuel consumption if not flooding, your model holds a little less that the later ones with hydroformed tank. The other thing about the 09 was that it only had one vent/overflow outlet boss on the timing side of the carb and the pipe was originally routed downwards behind the engine. Later years Keihins had and overflow and vent tapping at the same point on that side with side one going down the back of the engine and the top one going up under the side panel of the tank open ended. From what I remember of the 09, we ran the right hand vent pipe upwards behind the side panel which stopped it bogging when going down hills. You mention laying it down at sections, even with the fuel off you always lose fuel out of the carb which will increase your fuel consumption, and may even start a syphon when the fuel is on if your overflow/ vent pipe does not have a little vee cut out of it as a vacuum breaker. You can save fuel by fitting a side stand of course. By all means check the float height, it's on the Beta website. All proper overflow pipes have a little vee cut out to prevent syphoning. You can only take the bowl off the carb easily with it inverted as when the right way up, the floats drop and catch on the angle brass overflow pipe fitted to the carb bowl. Sometimes when cleaning the carb, people hold the floats between 2 fingers and bend them inwards a little, this makes the bowl very difficult to refit as the brass pipe fitted to the bowl won't easily pass the float and may even foul it when in operation. You can carefully bend the float out if it has been pressed in and it makes fitting the bowl easier. Hope this helps!

The master cylinders on the Beta are Grimeca, so if you got pins and rubbers meant for another make of master cylinder, the rubbers may have a different diameter and not locate in the undercut. Also some of the pins are 2mm longer and cause problems trying to adjust the clutch or brake as you can't screw them out far enough.

If all the above are ok, are your bars tilted too far forward as this can give the symptoms you describe?

Hi Steve, You will see from the attached photo that the map switch has 2 wires, brown and yellow/red, the terminals connections are covered with some resin. The map switch is wired so that the down position is the "hard" dry condition setting, and up is the "soft" wet setting. From previously checking the switch operation with a multimeter, the down position has the switch closed - hard setting, and the up is open -soft setting. However if you check the unused contacts above where the wires are attached, the switch works the opposite way round. So if you want the soft setting, make sure the wire ends have no copper protruding, insulate each wire end with heat shrink then shrink them together and secure out of the way against the frame. If you want the hard setting, solder the wire ends together, fit heat shrink and secure. Unfortunately the little sticker on the frame of 2015 bikes shows operation the wrong way round (compared to all the previous EVOs) although it shows the conventional way in the handbook on page 21 The blue and blue/white are for the lights, so insulate the ends of each wire to keep them open circuit and secured them.. Hope this helps

The exact setting of the airscrew can be found by seeing what the response of the engine is to any change in position. Think of the airscrew is just a simple valve ,when it is closed ( fully clockwise ) no air flows , when you open it anti-clockwise more air flows the more you open to mix with the fuel from the pilot Jet. If the mixture is weak the tickover usually gets faster, if too rich ( not opened enough) the bike will not pick up cleanly, splutters under acceleration and may need revving to clean it out. So start at 1.5 turns open from fully shut, adjust the tickover screw if necessary for a steady tickover, then see what the response is when you open the throttle. Progressively open the airscrew 1/4 turn at at time until it pulls the cleanest and smoothest without hesitation under load. From my experience, many spluttering bikes at trials are caused by their owners never removing the airscrew to blow through the pilot air passages to keep them clean. Hope this helps!

Providing that your carb has standard jets, most likely 55 pilot, 130 main and needle clip in 2nd slot from bottom (2nd richest) try the airscrew 2.5 turns out from fully closed to start with. I've known them to have good carburration at anything between 1.75 and 3.5 turns open.

Having had Techno's, Rev-3's and Evo's since 1995, we have found the standard water pump to be completely adequate to cool the bike (in Europe) providing that the radiator is kept clean. True it is a plastic impeller which only costs a few pounds and does become slack on the shaft after a year, but it is easy to check and cheap to replace.

The rev-3 always had 6004 2RSH 20 ID x 42 OD wheel bearings, but I think that 2009 was the first year of the EVO and the smaller outside diameter 61904 2RS1 bearings 20 ID x 37 OD were fitted to both wheels. However, the back wheels bearings of this type are more prone to failure due to the load and in 2010 the back wheel only reverted to the 6004 2RSH bearing. IF your back wheel is original is is most likely the 61904, so if there is any play replace them sooner rather than later as they have been know to damage the hub if they completely fail in use. I have heard of people getting the rear hub bored to take the 6004 bearing, but provided that you change the bearings when required, they should be ok. Hope this helps.

Let us know what you find!

First thing to check is the linkage arrangement for play. With the bike on a stand and the rear wheel off the ground hold the bike and try to lift the swinging arm. Some very small movement is acceptable but excessive movement is worn bearings or loose bolts. But it sounds as if you have too much sag in the shocker spring. Standing by the bike push down on the seat then release so that it comes up naturally. Then grip the silencer and try to lift the bike. It should only come up say 10-15 mm before the wheel comes off the ground. If it is a lot more, It may be that the adjusting nuts at the bottom of the spring have eased down the thread and reduced the spring tension. Get out your c-spanners and screw the top nut up the spring, keep checking the sag as above until it is 10-15mm, then follow up the bottom nut and lock the 2 adjusting nuts against each other. Hopefully that fixes it!

Go down to your local brake parts dealer, they stock all sizes of bleed nipples.

It may be that some dirt has got down inside the switch mechanism, but more likely that the push switch locking mechanism is stuck. Push the yellow mapping switch button up and down a couple of times to make sure it is free. Then when fully up (position 1 - softer power) gently pull it up and waggle a little with your fingers, you may feel/hear a click. Then push down and it may hold in the bottom position - position 2- quicker response. Obviously, only change the mapping when the engine is stopped. This should do it!

Get yourself a towbar fitted then you can put a bike rack on it. Our family went up and down the UK to National events with a Beta Techno on the back of a Subaru Legacy estate in the 90s! I also carried a Rev- 3 on a bike rack on an Impreza.

Steady on Bruce, 0007 is correct, do the floats float, as I have heard of one or both being punctured. Regarding the needle/seat, with the float bowl off, attach a bit of tube to the fuel inlet, blow gently into it then lightly raise and lower the float, when up some slight back pressure, when down none. Is there a fibre washer between the valve seat and the body? New bikes always come with nicks cut out of the two plastic overflow pipes which run downwards from the float bowl bottom and right hand side of the carb. If they are not nicked, if the carb overflows, you can get a syphon going.

That bit that dropped out is the needle jet, it is like a top hat shaped piece of brass and is held in place in the body by the needle jet holder. Put it back in the bore where you took the needle jet holder pt 35 out, with the smaller diameter going in first then it sits on it's shoulder and just protrudes into the air bore of the carb body. Then refit the needle jet holder. This jet sometimes falls out when you turn the carb over with the needle jet holder removed, so always take care. The bike hardly runs if that part is missing!! It is part 34 -Needle jet on the Keihin PWK28 parts list. Hope that helps.

Check the float height as per the pinned Keihin carb item on Beta forums, don't turn it completely upside down as it gives a false height. It could be that there's a score mark on the valve or seat allowing fuel to leak past, carefully inspect, you can always try 0007s trick, also check that the seat is tight in the carb body. Don't worry about the airscrew position, you should always remove it and the spring when cleaning the carb to blow through the air side of the pilot air system. For a start, count the number of turns to screw it in until it lightly seats. Then remove it fully, watch for the spring to come out. Remove the pilot jet (screwdriver) and blow through where you have removed the pilot jet, air comes out a hole at the air inlet side of the carb and the airscrew hole, blow both ways to ensure clear. Put jet, pilot airscrew and spring back in to the same setting as before, right in then say 1.5 turns out. Most EVOs run at between 1.5 - 2 turns out from fully in. If it is in too far it runs rich at the bottom, just ease it out 1/4 turn at a time til it picks up cleanly, but keeping to around the setting mentioned. Hope that helps

Hi Stephen That silicone inlet hose which makes carb removal a doddle and the other trick bits for the EVO which Westygas270 refers to are available from Acklams Harrogate.

Understand your concern if you have had to replace your stator, but the plastic cover is not meant to be a watertight fit, in fact trying to make it watertight probably causes more problems. My son and I have had Betas for many years from Technos to EVOs, after use we just remove the cover, blow out any water which may have got in, and leave the bike leaning to the right with the cover off so that any water can drain out and the timing side can dry out if necessary. A spray of WD 40 will prevent any rust.

I know that you've probably got it out by now, but with the pivot bolt out, get someone to sit or push down on the back of the bike as hard as possible. This moves the swinging arm up and allows you to pull the lever out.