overdale

Splat Shop do all the Keihin aftermarket bits.

As far as I know the Factory bike had red anodised bits all over the bike and a titanium front exhaust from standard, so it doesn't look like one. For any 2nd hand Betas you can check if the year and model is as advertised by going to the Beta uk website, parts finder and type in your frame number and it will tell you the year and type.

The 2010 was a great bike and quite zippy, as later they changed to softer 300 engine. If it has a flywheel weight it can be seen to be secured to the flywheel on the right hand side of the engine by two Philips type countersunk screws - that does soften the engine a bit. Those screws may be loctited in so warm the heads before trying to remove and make sure that you have a perfect fitting bit -you don't want to chew the heads up! Check the colour of the throttle tube under the twist-grip rubber, if it is black it is slow acting, if white - fast acting - so you want white if you want more instant response. Pilot jet is 48, 125 main, JJH needle, with clip usually in 2nd slot from bottom -2nd richest. Depending on conditions, air-screw around 1.5 turns out from fully in. Obviously you have to make sure that the passages in the carb are clear as if it has not been cleaned the small passages from the air-screw for the pilot air block up. With a bike of that age, if it is well used, the reed valve petals on the inlet between carb and engine may be getting week, Boysen ones are good. Has a previous owner changed the sprockets as gearing up slows response, I have a note saying that it was 11 on front and 41 on rear. If it ever did road trials or SSDT people gear them up (put a larger front sprocket on) for a higher road speed - then use a lower gear than normal in sections. Hope this helps -let us all know!

Your bike with the unpainted frame is either 2009 or 2010 and they were 290 cc up until 2011 when they changed to 300cc capacity with a black frame. I put your frame number into the Beta UK website Parts finder, and it comes up with EVO 290 2T MY10 -so it is a 2010 model with a 290cc engine which was a great bike.

It's true that this capacity bike is not always advertised, but certainly John Lampkin imports a limited number into the UK (many of which are pre-ordered) which are usually sold very quickly as it is a ace bike. Regarding the handbook, you get a Cd in the box of bits supplied with the bike and the spec is specifically for the 200. The 125 has a different stroke to the 200, 250 & 300 which are the same stroke, and Carb settings and sprockets are the same as the bigger bikes. Enjoy yourself as it is a very capable bike with smooth usable power and easy to ride!

Remember that sometimes the pipe curves higher than the master cylinder and that is where the air gets trapped. Preferably you need a rising line towards the master cylinder with no high spots so the air wants to return back, then just keep pumping and releasing and trapped air will work it's way back to the master cylinder..

As misscrabstick says, the pipe on the bottom of the float bowl is just an overflow pipe to run any leakage down the back of the engine. However, when you fit one, make note as in your picture that you cut a little "v" cut in the pipe 50mm or so from the clip -that is to prevent syphoning . Splatshop do the genuine Keihin vent/overflow pipes which don't harden like some plastic tubes.

If they have the original wheels, both of those bike should have the latest EVO tubeless wheel with spokes laced into an central flange on the rim. The spacers for these wheels are identical and the disc should run about central in the caliper. I have seen that the standard snail cams differed slightly in contour over the years, and as you have two bikes of different years, you could have one of one type and one of another type fitted to the same spindle -worth checking as a few mm on one side could make all the difference. If the alignment is out it will also cause the chain to try to come off the spockets and snag. The other point is that the stop for the snail cams on earlier models was an aluminium lug part of the swinging arm which can get damaged and affect alignment, whereas later models had a socket head screw screwed into the swinging arm for the snail cam to notch onto. If you are checking the alignment with string or a straight edge, remember to allow for half the difference in width of the front and rear tyres! Hope this helps

That is the valve which goes in the top of the damping rod on the damping leg of the forks. The small adjusting screw in the top cap limits the lift of this valve so throttling the oil flow and so the damping. If fell out when you took the cap off the damping rod! If missing, there will be minimal damping and it will be very bouncy. It goes in dome side down.

Hi Peter, Clearly as you have blown some coolant out, check that the engine is full of coolant see attached. Beta EVO Cooling System Check.pdf

Hi Peter, From past experience i can say that it may not be the thermostat, because when you bridge the fan circuit connector which the thermostat plug is pushed into, you automatically move the wiring harness. There is another plug in that area which has two yellows in and two whites out, that is the power from the generator to the voltage regulator which eventually supplies the fan. The cables may be run tightly near this plug and with washing etc the connection in the plug may not be good enough. With the fan connector linked try wiggling the wires and see if the fan stops and starts, but it does no harm to open and close these plugs to make sure that the contacts are clean and good and able to take current. Obviously if you link the fan connector and the fan runs constantly when you wiggle all the connectors, the thermostat is at fault. Hope this helps! 2018 Wiring diagram.pdf

When you say, changing the tap again, do you mean fitting a new one? If it is leaking generally it can be cleaned -check my post some time ago on Evo Fuel tap cleaning. The tap/ filter does have to be pushed up into the tank and most likely bends with the shape of the top of the tank. hope this helps.

Fitted them to our last three EVO 300s, the performance seemed sharper, the bikes ran well and we did not have to change the jetting from standard. A little air-screw adjustment may be required as normal as hotter weather (maybe not the UK this year!) reduces the air density and makes it run richer.

As copemech says, there has to be room (air space) for coolant expansion in the top of the radiator so that when the coolant heats up and expands it compresses the trapped air, and when cooling down the pressure drops to atmospheric. If the radiator is filled to the neck, some coolant will blow off when hot but it should find equilibrium, As the radiator cap lifting pressure is 1.4 bar, normal heating and cooling cycles with fan operation would be within this range and no blow off would occur unless you are on full throttle continuously, in which case you may have reached the limit of the cooling system and should shut off! You may have noticed that in the last few years Beta have added a cylinder head vent screw just behind the spark plug. As both the cooling hoses go into the bottom of the radiator, the cylinder head is the highest point in the engine so gas or air from incomplete filling can be trapped at the top of the head. With the engine cold, remove the radiator cap, note the level, then slacken the vent screw a few turns (8mm spanner) eventually a drop of water will come out round the vent screw and you know the head is full, if air/gas comes out you will know that the the head was not vented and and the level will drop in the radiator until you get coolant. Top up the radiator with coolant -just visible at the bottom of the filler tube and refit the cap. This should give normal operation with fan cutting in and out but in worst case scenario your head gasket may be leaking gas into the cooling space. In which case the gas displaces coolant in the head, back to the radiator and will eventually blow off during operation. As it is a closed system, the pressure when cold should always be atmospheric, but if after an event or practice, maybe the next day when the engine is completely cold, you slacken the radiator cap and there is still pressure and a slight hiss, you may need to change the head gasket. Hope this helps, and it was just over filling but remember to vent the head!

Grimeca is the standard kit on Betas, so if the master cylinder is the same try John Lampkin Imports.

Hi Marius, What happens is that a bit of dirt gets trapped between or behind the rubber disc in the tap and causes the face to be uneven, then petrol drips from where the spindle comes out the tap. You can dismantle the tap on the bike but it is tricky as you have to align the parts and get the spring back in a restricted space. the easiest way is to remove the tap. You may have to do this a couple of times in a year, but you don't need a new tap! To give more room, take off the front exhaust pipe then you have easy access to the tap from the exhaust side. Removing the carb may also give some more room. Note the exact alignment of the tap so that you get it back in the same position for ease of operation when back on the bike. The tap securing nut has right hand thread to the tank and left hand thread to the tap, but undoing it the normal way brings the tap out of the tank. Once undone ease the tap downwards and you'll start to see the white plastic filter which is part of the tap. Gently ease and twist the tap and filter out of the tank boss. Get the thing on the bench on clean material, set the tap in the off (back) position (then you know the alignment of parts) and depending on the year undo the big nut around the spindle or the 2 screws holding the securing plate,.the spindle can then be lifted out, watch out for the spring under the cover which gives the sealing force for the tap As you remove the bits, set them in an organised manner for ease of assembly. Note the alignment of the valve for correct assembly. Carefully remove the rubber disc and thorough clean the tap before reassembly. After assembly, with the tap in the off (back) position you should not be able to blow through the tap from the fuel hose. If you turn 1/4 clockwise (up-on position) you get flow, and 1/4 turn further (forward- reserve position) you also get flow so you know the parts are assembly correctly. Ease the filter back up into the tank twisting and pushing, Set the nut so that it is just started on the left hand thread of the tap, and just started on the right hand thread of the tank boss, then carefully screw it up clockwise - careful not to cross-thread. Align the tap for operating position and tighten the nut. Evo Fuel Tap Cleaning.pdf

As Andy says, go to the Beta UK site, go to downloads, download the parts list for your 2011 Evo then you will see the drawing of the parts and the related parts numbers.

Funny that it ran ok before you stripped the carb, so maybe this procedure will help. Evo Carb - Removing & Cleaning 2017.pdf

You can't convert the 125 Beta to any other capacity easily because the stroke of the 125 crankshaft is 54.5mm, whereas the 200, 250 & 300 are 60.5mm. So if the barrel would fit into the crankcase, you would still have to fit a different crankshaft etc.. Probably much easier and cheaper to sell it and buy a larger capacity bike if that's what you want.

Hi Dan, Most likely as others say, the needle jet has dropped out and is lying on your bench somewhere. Having had Betas for years, I made this up, maybe this will help! Splatshop sell all Keihin PWK28 spares. Evo Carb - Removing & Cleaning 2017.pdf

Yes best to buy a seal kit, it comes complete with plunger. You need an 11mm spanner to disconnect the hydraulic hose, fix the hose upright so air doesn't get in, then strip the master cylinder on the bench. Before removing the circlip, clean any crud round that area, then After removing the circling and washer, if the plunger is stuck it can be pushed out with a small screwdriver from the oil outlet end. Then just clean everything before assembly!

If there is load of free play with the adjuster right in, it may be the the master cylinder piston is not fully returning out, so limiting the stroke of the piston. Remove the brake lever and the rubber boot and you should see that the hollow end of the piston (with the small spring stuck in it) should stick out beyond the washer and circlip. If not push in and out a few times and see if it returns fully. If not you need to strip and clean the master cylinder and maybe fit a seal kit. Main cause of the problem is a failed rubber boot allowing water/muck into the outer space round the piston end. If you also need a Jitsie or similar rubber boot kit make sure you get one for a Grimeca master cylinder, as others will not fit properly. Hope this helps!

Go to the Beta UK website, then downloads, look for the year of your Beta 80, and download the parts drawings. You should be able to identify the kickstart mechanism parts you need, then just phone Beta UK ( which is John LAmpkin imports) they are the source of bits in the U.K. IF you don't know the year, I don't think it matters as the 80 engine has been pretty standard over the years.

The standard 300 has a flywheel weight fitted on the back of the flywheel (see picture of when we removed ours), so not easy to see unless you remove the flywheel. Some riders remove the weight to get faster response, so maybe ask the previous owner if they removed it.

Just checked my records and the step on the top hat washer mentioned earlier is 1.5mm, so having the flat to the outside reduces the spring pressure by 1.5mm from having the flat face next to the spring. A standard steel washer is 6mm clearance x 12 mm od x 1mm thick. The washer has to be able to fit inside the spring diameter, so must be 13mm outside diameter or less. If your bike only has plain flat washers to tension the springs it's easy to try a 1mm washer under each of the pressure washers and see how that feels.