overdale

If you have Gaerne boots, MRS can supply new soles, maybe other importers also can for their boots. A good old fashioned shoe repairer should be able to do the job, and if the surface is prepared correctly, clean and dry, good quality contact adhesive should give a secure sole.

You don't say whether it is 2t or 4t or what capacity, so assuming it is a 2 stroke 250, 290 or 300, the front sprocket would be 11 teeth and the rear 41. If it is a 200, it would be 11,42. The sprocket size is chosen to get the best performance in all gears, some people do change, but I'd stick with standard until you get used to it!

I've had this problem before with 2t EVOs and had to follow up the adjustment a couple of times. What I found on one occasion was that as the steering head stem is some sort of aluminium material, corrosion takes place between the top inner head race and the stem spindle. The adjusting ring goes quite tight, but due to the corrosion, the bearing will not move further down the spindle to take out the play without using excessive force. Remove the whole assembly again and check that the top inner race will just slide completely down the stem spindle, if not clean up gently until it does. Grease the thing well before reassembly, and keep tightening the adjusting ring feeling for tightness and removal of play. Remember that when the top yoke is refitted and you tighten the top spindle nut, it takes any slack out of the adjusting nut thread and may make the steering tighter. You have to find a balance between how free it is and any play defected when you pull the fork ends. I always mark the top nut position with a paint marker to see if it slackens. Maybe also as NZRalf says you are running out of thread. I've just looked at the UK Beta Spares website, go to downloads and choose your bike. TAV 13 shows the steering head arrangement, item 3 is shown as a dust cover which looks in this drawing like a washer, but I'm sure there is a dust cover and a washer. Lack of the washer would limit the travel of the nut, but if you are getting that far, the thread on the spindle would most likely show binding marks at the end on the thread. Hope that this helps!

The flat spot just as you open the throttle sounds like a pilot jet/airscrew problem. First check how far open the airscrew is. Screw it in clockwise counting the turns until it seats, could be anything from one turn to three turns out. Then remove the airscrew and tension spring. With the carb up upside down remove the float bowl and remove the pilot jet with a screwdriver, and the main jet assembly with a 10mm spanner. With these out blow down the holes where the jets have been removed, when you blow the pilot hole air comes out the airscrew hole and a small hole at the air inlet end of the carb. If not get some carb cleaner in there and try again. Be careful if you turn the carb over as the bush which the needle passes through has been held in position by the main jet assembly and can fall out. Blow through the main and pilot jets before replacing. Replace the airscrew and spring to the same position as before, Down to the bottom and open by whatever it was before - but is is usually around 1.5 turns open. Make sure that the float bowl is clean. Float height can be checked using the pinned description for Beta Keihin Carb. Any new spark plug comes set at around 1mm gap, it should be 0.6 mm or 24 thou, - that can effect performance, and the little screw cap on the top should be tight. When you run the engine and it is warmed up, you can always adjust the airscrew a quarter turn at a time until it gives smooth response under throttle opening. Try that for a start ,and report what you find.

Normally the 2011 EVO Keihin is ok , but I have seen the overflow problem when the breather pipe was routed incorrectly. There are two small pipes on the right hand side of the carb fitted to two aluminium stub pipes coming out of the top half of the carb. The one which points upwards is the vent pipe and the plastic pipe should be routed upwards through the frame and along the right hand tank side panel. The one coming out horizontally is a sort of overflow and should be routed down under the carb and towards the swinging arm. If both are routed down over, a syphon can occur under certain circumstances and the carb will leak fuel. When removing the carb, disconnect the upwards pointing vent and leave it on the bike, then it is always routed correctly up the frame! When cleaning the carb, removed the float pivot pin, lift off the floats and needle and blow back through the float needle hole to ensure that no dirt is in the inlet connection which could get under the needle when in use. To check the float height, see BETA forums and the pinned report on 2008 2t with Keihin. Hope this helps!

I had a 2008 Rev-3 200 and it had a flywheel weight fitted from new, the 200 EVO hasn't got one.

Hi Nicos, Just make a small cut like a V in the pipe where I indicated on the picture and that allows breathing but breaks any siphoning effect. The left hand pipe on the bottom of the float bowl is purely the overflow. Hope that this solves the problem!

The 2009 Beta Evo had this problem with the Keihin. At first it was thought that the main jet was not getting enough fuel when going downhill or bouncing and extra holes were drilled in the drain plug to align with the slots in the bottom of the float bowl. Then it was found that if the vent/overflow pipe on the tickover screw side was routed upwards above the carb into the plastics above, the problem went. Maybe the pipe going downwards was causing a siphon at certain times. The next year the pipe was still routed downwards but with a vee cut in the pipe just below the float bowl bracket height. See attached pdf. Keihin Mods to get over bogging problem.pdf

Hi Chewy, Just noticed that you were having to strip the clutch regularly due to it not clearing. Have you tried changing to ATF? The other thing is to ensure that all the plates are the same way round, on the steel plates make sure the rounded edges on the teeth go to the engine side. Also if you inspect the friction plates, one side of the tang is more rounded than the other, fit all of these the same way round also, say rounded side to the engine and see how it goes. Otherwise you can always do the mod posted in the Beta section -it works!

The 200 Beta has always been the most underated bike -John Lampkin rode them all the time and consequently it is most likely that the UK is the biggest market for them due to the softer, more controllable power enjoyed by most of us who don't want our arms pulling out. Everyone who tries one comments on the fact that they are more relaxing to ride and do everything required but in a more controllable way. The Evo is a bit sharper than the old Rev-3 200, but with a slow action throttle and the power map switch on position 1, they will do anything you want and pull from nowhere.

As Liviob says the first EVOs had a small plastic clip (which hooked onto the clutch pipe I think)& held the knob at the timing side of the bike. Later EVOs did not have the flexible adjuster, as you can always reach the adjustment screw with a long bladed screwdriver. On the Evos we had with the extension, we kept the knob at the clutch side as the bend is less severe than going right under the carb, and access to the knob is easier. Just above the circular clutch cover, above the left top cover screw, there is a bit of the clutch casing which sticks up above the level of the engine casing behind -a bit of uneccessary material. We drilled a small hole through that part so that it could be used for a small plastic cable tie. The flexible mixture cable just comes from the carb at the exhaust side, forward along the top of the clutch casing and the cable tie goes around the smaller diameter part immediately behind the knurled knob. Result -easy to get at and operate! Just remember to clip off the cable tie if you remove the carb!!!

If there are two wires from the kill switch then one wire comes from the low tension side of the coil, and the other goes to earth somewhere on the bike. Operating the kill button just joins these wires so that the LT side voltage goes to zero, and the coil does not produce a spark. So you must disconnect both wires - there is probably a little plug somewhere near the steering head, the kill switch is no longer in the circuit and you may get a spark at the spark plug if the rest of the system is ok. If you try to start the bike with the kill button disconnected, have some thick gloves ready for pulling the spark plug lead off just incase the engine revs!!! It has to be said that bikes around 08 did have stator problems, but yours may have been changed already. When you remove the flywheel cover is it all clean and dry?? Hope it's the kill circuit!!!

I presume that you have tried totally removing the kill button to see if that is shorting out the coil?? The standard Beta kill button fails after a while. Trace the wire from the kill button to the small connector near the steering head, separate the connector and try for a spark. If it is a one wire after market kill button, it earths to the frame, so just remove if off the handlbars so there is no circuit and try. Maybe you'll be lucky!

Glad to hear that you found a fix without resorting to going out too big. The helicoil thread is as long as a normal thickness nut, and a normal nut is design to be able to take the force exerted by the bolt, ie the bolt would snap before the thread pulls out of the nut! So providing your bolt goes fully into the helicoil, it should hold ok. If you are using a longer bolt, obviously the bolt should be a few mm shorter than the depth of the hole plus the thickness of the bashplate, otherwise the bolt might bottom in the hole before the bashplate/frame connection is tight One thing about putting the helicoil right at the bottom of a blind hole is that you might not be able to knock the tang off or get the bolt thread fully into the helicoil, But one thing about helicoils, you can always pick them out and fit another if you are unhappy with the position. If you calculate that you have about a nut thickness of bolt thread in the helicoil it should be ok. With regards a torque setting, I don't know one, but from previous experience, I normally put Blue, medium strength (removable) Loctite and as tight as you can go with a normal length 10mm spanner is adequate. And check the tension regularly as banging the bashplate causes movement and slackens the bolts. Hope it continues to work!

Regarding the tyre touching the mudflap, it is definitely not to do with the tyre but with the sprockets and chain. The REV-3 had limited tyre clearance originally and flaps/shock absorber bottoms were scuffed. The clearance seems adequate when stopped, but when spinning, centrifugal force distorts the tyre profile so closing the gap! I would think that standard gearing would be 11/41 but you can check on the Beta UK website under the technical specification of your bike. If you have larger front or rear sprockets with a standard chain the gap will be smaller to get the correct tension. If you sprockets are correct, just get a half link -which is actually 1.5 links with 2 split links. This lengthens the chain enough for clearance and correct chain adjustment -this was definitely the case with Rev-3 200s where they used 11/42 sprockets. Performance wise, compression comes down to rings, if it doesn't rattle a lot, the piston is most likely ok but maybe some new rings would help. hope this helps

Agree that M12 is far too big to go to. I have a v-coil set which must be very similar to Helicoil and the tapping drill for the M8 v-coil is 8.4mm od. If you have to got to M10, the tapping drill for the M10 v-coil is 10.4mm od, so it still may be possible to fit an M10 bolt. Good luck!

As pindie says, the accumulated oil is not burning off and shows at leaky joints. A blast along the road or track when the exhaust temperature stays up for some time will start the exhaust smoking as the surplus burns off. What 2 stroke oil are you using, and what mixture? If you had to use the choke, the mixture is too weak -too much air to the amount of fuel. If you use fully synthetic 2 -stroke oil, the recommended mixture is 1.5% which gives 75cc per 5 litres of standard unleaded petrol. If you put too much oil in the mixture, the percentage of fuel in a certain volume of petrol/oil mixture is reduced, so then there is less fuel to the same amount of air and a weaker mixture. Is the air filter clean and treated with filter oil?

The NGK BP5ES is the correct plug for the bike (the one which JLI would send) and we've used them for years on Rev-3 and EVOs without problems. Set the gap to 0.6mm (24 thou)- they come bigger than that when new.

Maybe they were Helicoiled originally, but once the working part is stripped/damaged, even a longer bolt will only contact with a few threads. From what I remember, the rear bolts are angled into the frame, with a special M8 bolt with a small hex head. So if you tap out to M10, the larger head may protrude beyond the bottom of the bashplate. You can carefully pick out the end of the coil with something like a scriber then pull the wire out with pliers, then fit a new insert. If you have a friend with a Helicoil kit, it is easy to use the Helicoil drill/tap and fit an M8 Helicoil, then you are back to standard. I bought a recoil kit years ago -one of the best tools ever bought!! Make sure that the bashplate is straigthened out so there is a little tension in it as possible before refitting, and locktite the bolts in. Hope this helps!!

This fault is more common than you think. If your bash plate is bent or slack, when you smack into or land on a rock, the bashplate bends upwards and knocks the clutch casing. This upwards knock causes the earlier old style paper gasket to move and so the oil drains out. Lucky you saw it before you ran the gearbox dry. Theychanged that gasket to a one with metal compressed between to layers of gasket material. This is stronger and less likely to come out. To do the casing gasket, as others say, you have to remove the bash plate, mabe even the exhaust front pipe to get access to the front bashplate bolt on the right hand side. If the bashplate is bent, there is going to be some tension in it, so slacken the front bolts but not completely out, then slacken the back until nearly out and using pipe pliers or mole grips hold the bashplate to the bottom of the frame next to the swinging arm linkage whilst removing the back bolts. To straighten the bashplate, compare it to a friends good one or just hammer the bent bits down straight on a wooden block. Keep trying it against the frame until it fits with hardly any tension to get the bolts in. To change the clutch casing gasket, drain the coolant and gearbox oil and lay the bike on the floor, right side down. Leaving the water hoses attached to the pump cover remove the 3 screws and tie the cover back out of the way. Take off the gear lever and kickstart, (no need to remove the circular clutch cover) then remove all the clutch casing socket screws. As someone said - make a cardboard drawing of the cover and put the removed screws through corresponding holes in the cardboard as some screws are different lengths. Tap the cover and jiggle to pull away from the engine whilst always pushing the kickstart and gearlever shaft back in towards the engine so that everything stays in place. Lift the cover off carefully as their maybe be shims stuck to the casing where the shafts went through. If so take them off and put over corresponding shafts. There are also two hollow circular dowels which align the cover, one front and one back, best to put them both in the engine side holes. Remove old gasket, fit new metalised gasket. Squarely mount clutch cover over shafts jiggling down carefully until ther is no gap. During this fitting, the water pump gear has to align with the crankshaft pinion, so as you lower the casing you may have to just move the water pump impeller a little to allow meshing of gears. Refit screws, etc. and water pump cover. Get bike upright, fill with 550cc of ATF, fill coolant, rocking bike from side to side to allow venting, take spark plug out and kick over engine to aid venting of pump and top up coolant. Leave rad cover off until you've run the engine for a while to fully vent the engine. Never let the bashplate get too bent on a Beta, and always check the screws are tight. Hope this helps

I have had Betas for years and the cover is definitely not designed to be watertight so water will usually get in, but because of the fit of it, it also can get out! Obviously, if your stator and flywheel is full of muck and rust you'll have to take the flywheel off and give it a good clean then lightly spray with WD40. Make sue that the taper is clean and dry before you assemble. Providing that the cover is not damaged or distorted, refit the cover without any sealant. After every wet event, practice or wash, remove the flywheel cover and leave the bike with a lean to the right to allow any water to run out. Wipe as much of the outside of the flywheel as you can, blow out with air and leave to dry as long as possible. Spray lightly with WD40.

This happens with many types of back brake, but is usually due to a combination of 2 things. The brake pads wear tapered due to the ingress of mud/grit and because of pad wear, the adjuster is screwed out more to regain the operating position. Adjustment causes the rear brake master cylinder piston to go higher up the cylinder and may even cover the inlet/return port from the reservoir - even when in the non-braking position. Then when using or dragging the brake, the pads/pistons/oil gets hotter and expands, but because the port to the reservoir is closed, the pressure builds up and applies more brake. That's why cooling releases the brake. This can damage the seals in the caliper. The fix - check brake pads regularly for taper as under pressure the pistons may cant in their bores and can jam, if tapered more than 0.3mm - file flat again. This gives longer pad life and better braking. After adjustment of rod length, always check that the pads fully release off the disc.