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  1. On a new bike the fan often cuts in early and runs a while, but it is unusual to run a long time. First thing, is it full of coolant -insufficient coolant could keep it going. Attached is my check for the cooling system. It is also possible that the thermostat is faulty, or that there is a short in the wiring and if so you dealer or Beta UK would supply one under warranty. If it is full of coolant and circulating there is plenty of cooling capacity. In the central frame space with he mudguard removed you can see all the connectors. The thermostat connector has two black wires from the thermostat and the control side has one black and one red/black wire. Let us know what you find! Beta EVO Cooling System Check.pdf
  2. After some time the fan impellor does become loose on the shaft so it is worth replacing it on a bike your age and it is not expensive. The connector for the thermostat/fan control system is under the left hand tank side panel see attached document. If the thermostat is original, it has done well to last! Let us know what you find. Thermostst test on 2012 EVO.pdf
  3. When you took the clutch apart, was the bike lying on it's side or upright and did you take the clutch lifting pushrod out of the centre of the shaft? The reason I ask is that there is a 5 or 6 mm ball inside that shaft between that pushrod and the slave cylinder mechanism. If that is missing (on your garage floor!), you would lose that amount of lift, the slave cylinder would operate to it's full travel then go solid and the push rod would not lift the pressure plate. For assembly of the of the clutch go to the Beta UK website, parts finder, select any Rev-3 model, select clutch and you can see the bits. Let us know what you find.
  4. Have experience of running both 200 & 300 Betas on standard unleaded (e10) without any noticeable problems, but you can always try and see if there is any difference.
  5. Regarding the Beta 125, just check whether it has a white fast action throttle as this makes them zippy. Try a black slow action, maybe your 250 has one on! Hope this helps!
  6. If you go to the Beta UK website, parts finder Rev-3 with the year as early as it goes, select suspension, it shows that the top and bottom bolts have the same parts numbers for 4 & 6 which is 11.65022.000 and says that it goes back to 2001- the same if you select 2007. I'm pretty sure that they were the same for all years, but give Beta UK a call if you want to be sure. Hope this helps!
  7. The spring leg limits the travel of the forks within the stroke of the damping leg so that the damping device does not reach it's limits of travel and suffer damage. Attached are instructions for fitting/venting the legs for an EVO but will also stand for the Rev-3. Hope this helps! EVO Fork levels & fit to bike.pdf
  8. Agree with all of the above, but check impeller turns with engine just in case pin has dropped out during manipulation. Rad cap should be 1.4 bar earlier ones were lower. If fan is running and in the right direction, check engine coolant system as per attached info. It may be that the head gasket is leaking gas into the water space and forcing water out of the rad cap. Let us know what you find. Beta EVO Cooling System Check.pdf
  9. Here is the English version downloaded from the Beta Spain website for 2014 EVO 125-200 -hope this helps. 2014 Beta EVO wiring.pdf
  10. It may be that the little rubber boot has swelled due to oil contamination or that the wrong one was fitted before. If you look at the Jitsie kits on Splat Shop website make sure that you chose the one for your master cylinder otherwise it will not locate in the groove in the master cylinder and stay in position.
  11. I have the Witter the flanged detachable towbar arrangement on my Skoda Octavia, the nose weight is listed as 100kg, and I've used it with trials bikes of around 70kg without problems. When removed, you can just see the bottom of the receptacle for the gooseneck below the bumper and the socket also swings away under the bumper. The advantage is that your bike rack socket arrangement can be left bolted to the detachable part's flange - so it's safe in the garage and you are not banging your legs when going in the boot! Once inserted to the locking position, a wedge springs out (you can feel it click) and the knob indicates the "green~" locked position, so locking it in position until the release knob is pushed and turned. The knob when in the locked position makes it impossible to come out. A plastic cap covers the receptacle when the detachable part is out. Problems only occur when the receptacle gets dirt or rust in it or the two curved contact surfaces at each side, so keep it clean and lubed from new, clean before fitting and it should be good. It is quite heavy with your bike sockets on it, so practice fitting so you can feel the location click and pushing in and turning the knob for removal. Hope this helps!
  12. Agree with totty79, just don't screw it on too far on one thread before connecting the other, or that thread may bottom before the connection is tight.
  13. It may be difficult as the threads are tricky to start on both threads at once without PTFE tape. Check the nut on the tap thread and on the tank thread before trying to mount to see that they are free. My picture does not show it but there is a black plastic washer around the base of the filter which forms the seal between the tap and the tank, so you should not need tape. Check that the nut goes over the washer, as that causes extra friction to the nut when trying to mount the tap. If necessary gently file the outside edge of the black washer until the nut will pass over it without jamming. Once you know the threads are free and the nut is free over the washer you have to gently align the tap and turn the nut so that both threads engage equally -avoid cross threading!
  14. The connecting nut for the Beta fuel tap has right and left hand threads, it is right hand onto the tank boss and left hand onto the tap thread. See attached description. You need to remove the front exhaust pipe and maybe the carb to give more room. Hope that helps! Beta EVO Fuel Tap Overhaul.pdf
  15. What do you mean about the back brake retaining clip? The pads are held in by a M6 socket head screw and the later Evos had a spring fitted between the pads to just aid keeping them off the disc.. Assume you managed to push the pistons back when fitting the new pads, but your problem of the brake locking may be due to over adjustment of the master cylinder brake rod- especially if you had very worn pads before. If the rod is screwed up too far into the master cylinder, the piston seals off the reservoir hole so oil cannot top up the system or flow back into the reservoir when the brake pedal is released. So when heat is generated under braking, the oil expands and as it can't get back to the reservoir, it increases in pressure and applies more brake. Try undoing the lock nut on the brake rod and screwing it down a few turns, which should ease off the pressure - and let us know what you find.
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