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overdale

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About overdale

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    Beta EVO 200

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    North Yorkshire
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  1. Agree with totty79, just don't screw it on too far on one thread before connecting the other, or that thread may bottom before the connection is tight.
  2. It may be difficult as the threads are tricky to start on both threads at once without PTFE tape. Check the nut on the tap thread and on the tank thread before trying to mount to see that they are free. My picture does not show it but there is a black plastic washer around the base of the filter which forms the seal between the tap and the tank, so you should not need tape. Check that the nut goes over the washer, as that causes extra friction to the nut when trying to mount the tap. If necessary gently file the outside edge of the black washer until the nut will pass over it without jamming. Once you know the threads are free and the nut is free over the washer you have to gently align the tap and turn the nut so that both threads engage equally -avoid cross threading!
  3. The connecting nut for the Beta fuel tap has right and left hand threads, it is right hand onto the tank boss and left hand onto the tap thread. See attached description. You need to remove the front exhaust pipe and maybe the carb to give more room. Hope that helps! Beta EVO Fuel Tap Overhaul.pdf
  4. What do you mean about the back brake retaining clip? The pads are held in by a M6 socket head screw and the later Evos had a spring fitted between the pads to just aid keeping them off the disc.. Assume you managed to push the pistons back when fitting the new pads, but your problem of the brake locking may be due to over adjustment of the master cylinder brake rod- especially if you had very worn pads before. If the rod is screwed up too far into the master cylinder, the piston seals off the reservoir hole so oil cannot top up the system or flow back into the reservoir when the brake pedal is released. So when heat is generated under braking, the oil expands and as it can't get back to the reservoir, it increases in pressure and applies more brake. Try undoing the lock nut on the brake rod and screwing it down a few turns, which should ease off the pressure - and let us know what you find.
  5. tshock250 is absolutely right - the latest 300s are real easy to start. There is a small short slot going up the barrel from the exhaust port, and the depth reduces as it goes away from the exhaust port. So there is exhaust leakage (lower compression as the piston rises past the exhaust port) as you kick the bike over at very low speed compared to tick-over . Once running, the piston passes the slot so fast that the exhaust leakage is negligible.
  6. overdale

    Sumpguard Helicoils

    All the sump securing screws are M8 coarse thread with a 1.25 pitch. So any coil insert for M8 should screw in unless the cross-sectional form is different. So If you have some inserts, why not try one, you can always pull the wire out again. I've found that Vee-coil will fit. Don't knock the tang off until the insert is sufficiently just below the surface of the hole so that the bolt thread will start ok.
  7. As mcman56 says, a simple tool can be made, or carefully use circlip pliers. The cap should not be very tight as it relies on the o-ring as the oil/air seal. If you are ever loosening the cap in the bike, remember to slacken the top yoke clamp screw first as it can nip the thread of the cap.
  8. There is no O ring fitted to the standard air-screw although some after market ones do have them. We have never fitted an aftermarket air-screw and have had no problems. Always remove when cleaning the carb as the pilot air drillings can block up. Before removal check setting by carefully screwing in until it bottoms - counting the turns before removal, don't lose the spring! Air-screw setting is normally 1.5 to 2.5 turns out from fully in, and a long bladed screwdriver will reach it under the silencer for fine adjustment. Regarding the tickover screw, once freed and greased the plastic one is ok, but an aftermarket one is better and you need the spring from the original and that gives sufficient tension.
  9. Whatever length will not affect the carburetion and the up through the frame routing is the neatest solution and best protection. Make the run similar to the 2nd picture, push the tube up inside the frame until it stops, estimate how much to cut off the end and cut at an angle so that even if it comes up against a flat face, it cannot be blocked. Next time you remove the carb for cleaning, it comes out with the carb, and you just slide it back up the frame when refitting.
  10. Regarding the connection at the right hand side of the carb, the horizontal one goes downwards and the vertical one is the vent which on your bike is led up inside the side panel. An easily available petrol cap vent can be fitted on the end to prevent the direct ingress of water. On later models, the vent pipe was run up the hollow frame section, so that the end is up above the highest opening so well protect from direct water. I would route it that way. If your tube is rock hard, Splat Shop has Keihin bits including the overflow and vent pipes. See attached pictures. Carb vent tube routing.pdf
  11. overdale

    Will it fit a 2020.

    Beta do a plain plastic one fitted to all later years models which will fit all earlier models (mine was 2011) and are available from Beta UK or through dealers. It is held between the rear edge bash plate and the bottom of the frame and may need a locating hole drilling in the bash plate. And it's a good opportunity to remove the bash plate and straighten out any dents so it is a stress free pull up into position on the engine!
  12. Contact the Beta Importer John Lampkin Imports at Skipton, they will have the parts.
  13. Splat Shop do all the Keihin aftermarket bits.
  14. As far as I know the Factory bike had red anodised bits all over the bike and a titanium front exhaust from standard, so it doesn't look like one. For any 2nd hand Betas you can check if the year and model is as advertised by going to the Beta uk website, parts finder and type in your frame number and it will tell you the year and type.
  15. overdale

    2010 evo tuning

    The 2010 was a great bike and quite zippy, as later they changed to softer 300 engine. If it has a flywheel weight it can be seen to be secured to the flywheel on the right hand side of the engine by two Philips type countersunk screws - that does soften the engine a bit. Those screws may be loctited in so warm the heads before trying to remove and make sure that you have a perfect fitting bit -you don't want to chew the heads up! Check the colour of the throttle tube under the twist-grip rubber, if it is black it is slow acting, if white - fast acting - so you want white if you want more instant response. Pilot jet is 48, 125 main, JJH needle, with clip usually in 2nd slot from bottom -2nd richest. Depending on conditions, air-screw around 1.5 turns out from fully in. Obviously you have to make sure that the passages in the carb are clear as if it has not been cleaned the small passages from the air-screw for the pilot air block up. With a bike of that age, if it is well used, the reed valve petals on the inlet between carb and engine may be getting week, Boysen ones are good. Has a previous owner changed the sprockets as gearing up slows response, I have a note saying that it was 11 on front and 41 on rear. If it ever did road trials or SSDT people gear them up (put a larger front sprocket on) for a higher road speed - then use a lower gear than normal in sections. Hope this helps -let us all know!
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