sting32

I have had that problem with my 08 Raga pro 300. Turns out ANYTIME I used fuel that had ALCOHOL in it, it would glob up the premix, as you said in a ride or 2 it would be enough to cause a problem. I luckily, have a station near me that prides itself to 100% non alcohol gas, that I buy, and no more problems... it affects my 10, 11 & 12, raga's too by the way...

NO, as far as I know they are different, but you can get them, contact your dealer or parts house.

My bet is that he pulled the throttle cable out of the top of the carb. And it caught just around the lip of the adjuster that it must fit INTO, which is now holding the carb open by as much as 1/4th throttle possibly.. ANYTIME YOU work on a bike, before you start it, you GOT to be able to hear the carb's SLIDE hit bottom, it makes a distinct click when it hits the idle screw.

I like to reverse bleed my brakes and or clutches, but some never have to do it that way... bleed just like you do a car, pump the appropriate lever, then while you hold pressure, open bleed nipple on slave end of the line, watch it spurt out, close nipple, pump again, repeat until satisfied.... if you use a syringe carefully you can push the fluid, from bleeding nipple up into the reservoir. YES, there is an obvious trick to not introduce air of course, and if you cannot figure that one out, I suggest you take it to a dealer/mechanic/buddy.

We also need to clarify "cloudy" because water in oil becomes "foamy" more specifically than just cloudy, and are you talking white cloudy, or darkly cloudy? how long is your one ride (lol)? I change my oil every 8-10 hours of riding time, usually this means I can practice for 3 weeks, then change the oil for the event, repeat this each month. my oil is golden clear clean, turns slightly black or cloudy with clutch materials I would say, but NOT FOAMY. My previously used oils were RED and or BLUE, and when red oil got water it was a foamy PINK, and the BLUE became FOAMY LIGHTER BLUE when water was in them. So are we talking the same here?

Unless you live in Spain (my guess) you have as many bikes to choose from, that comes in the containers that your country's importers or dealers have ordered and shipped, to your country. so if importer gets word from your dealer that you have put money down? on one, he probably adds one more to the order (or saves it for you at least). I would have to logically guess, that after these are ship and distributed to the dealers, it is too late to get another until the next shipment (if any) is ordered, if they are sold before you speak up for one.

show us a picture?

Keep me updated, we're kind of alike, I like used or on many other "toys" versus new... however I am loving riding the 2011 Raga 300 Pro this year... But as luck would have it, Im just now starting to work on a 82-ish Fantic 200, that is definitely having fuel issues, might be close what you describe. my plan of attack is: 1. dad (whos done enough carb cleanings) took carb apart, cleaned it. we had to buy the rubber from engine to carb, now ready to do more. 2. reclean the carb, make sure nothing got back in jets or elsewhere. 3. going to use carb cleaner, and spray while engine is running without the flywheel side, if it picks up the carb cleaner usually idle will change, probably means crank seal is bad. 4. Luckily I have a nice running version of the same bike, I plan to check that carbs are set "EVERYWHERE" the same. 5 check and compare compression readings. 6 maybe you have an idea, when you said reeds, I have never had a bike with reed problems, I don't know if the Fantic even has reeds? unfortunately until I goto the shop I haven't any more ideas... except maybe the low compression like you are fighting could be another idea...

Staldantes, you stating the triangle filter, means pre PRO BIKE/engine, so must be 04 or older TXT engine. this engine has more mass that turns as well, so might not rev and return as fast as the newer high compression, less flywheel size/weight/diameter PRO model bikes. you need someone used to the bike you have see and hear it, you might just be chasing your tail because of unfair assumptions. Jetting is key, as well as air leaks and or something like clogged jet causes lean conditions, that seem to make an engine run on a bit, or at best, that can have you chasing your tail... We usually try to change rings often, I was told this can save wear on pistons, I dont know if that is exactly the truth, but it sounded like good advice to me... cheap too.

A tip from someone that used to have to fix this now and again (broken starters). The spring we need to talk about (& that Cursed is talking about) is shaped pretty much like a c-clip where it goes onto the starter shaft assembly, but with a handle on it... the "handle part, goes into the case (just like Cursed talks about)... Now, if you stretch that spring at the "handle part" of it, while putting it onto the lip where it goes, then it wont grip like Cursed talked about. I have taken 1 bike apart that this spring clip was actually finally broken almost in 2, at the "handle" part of the spring. I believe this is because of a tip I gave the owner, for when he had it apart, might been taken to extreme... when I get that clip on the grove it goes on, I grip "slightly" the spring part of the "handle" with some good pliers to make it grip the gear harder... you can test this when shaft is in bike like it should be, hold that little handle part of the spring with your fingers, to hold it stationary (not lte it rotate around while you rotate the kick lever), then as you rotate the shaft to start, the gear moves up to hit the idler gear, which then turns the clutch-basket.

It changes the timing "curve!" and yeah, might hardly be noticable for newbs to amatures, that cannot run the clutch right yet. But the better the rider the more usable things like better tires, better shocks, better engines come into play. the bikes or models, are not solely marketed to newbs, so ignore what you need to for now, maybe later it will affect you? I ride with mine on clouds, if it matters, I moved it once, I cant tell enough difference, so honestly, that means I don't ride well enough to be EFF-in with the switch... Though, I like that someday I could be riding great enough that making this "switch" to switch mappings would help me, without having to research and buy some kind of computer to make a change? your mileage may vary.

Jdaugherty, You need to get yourself aquainted with Gas Gas in general, Gas Gas.com is the USA's importer website, on that site they have all kinds of information from a dealer list to used bikes, and tech tips. Then find your local club and each club usually has a "parts" guy, not all but most do. there are many dealers but it is nOT like a big5 dirtbike dealership where they own a building and employ tens of people, most are mom& pop places, for any brand. laser gave you good information, mine is just followup. Plus there are video's on youtube for how to do it, that originally were created by the importer of Gas Gas to the usa & Trials Parts USA's Jim Snell (parts importer for all Gas Gas) that were given in VHS and more recently as DVD to all who bought a newley imported Gas Gas trials bike in the USA. videos are linked here I think plus back at Gas Gas.com via trialspartsusa pages... http://www.youtube.com/user/GASGASinfo you can order online "ish" aka email and sending a check, to so many dealers, but over the phone is better, usually you or they can ask a question saving you refunding the wrong parts & shipping hassles.

Lineaway has the answer

Find someone that has experience, my 04 that I bought parts for (my brother has it) had this issue with the "new" parts he got 2 years ago... did exactly what you are talking about, I forget what the actual cure was, anything from busing in wrong place or something.... I'll contact him to make sure, I can not recall, HOW he fixied it by deleted this information becuase I dont want to let you to try it before I confirm it, or if it was something else before he got it together right.

Yeah it has to "seal" so it will be tight. new ones come with new o'ring, so just be careful, hopefully you won't be tearing anything up.

The usual problem, and please bear with me, because I don't have that old of bike or a lot of time working on oldies... but on the newer "pro" models until recently at least, the impeller is on a little drive shaft, that goes through that seal, and is driven off the crank. That shaft wears out (the shaft should be perfectly smooth) and then gets grooves, which makes the seal worthless. I guess they finally got the heat treating fixed for the shafts that they ship now with repair/seal kits for our Pro models. My telling you about this is JUST IN CASE it Could be same thing on that older bike, pumps were same design kinda, just made smaller for the pro, I believe. There is a "right way" and a wrong way for the seal to go into the pump housing, Im sure that is still true. You best bet might be to just find a parts breakdown from Gas Gas (usa or uk, or spain) for your model, or anything except "PRO MODEL-Trials" engines, use basically the same engines, up until 2003 or 4?

I want to add to Leanin's post. I have done this for 6 or more years IHMO saves your kicker, and energy... Pull shifter into 2nd or 3rd, turn on everything like normal, choke-Fuel petcock. Rock vigorously back and forth with the engine going back and forth to the compression cycle as Leanin describes make sure you end at the pull backwards. Do this for fair weather (70 F-90 F here in the states) a minimum of 5 times, in cold weather I do it more, warmer I might not do as much. The 300 fires 1st kick, every time. assuming the bike is setup right when it runs of course. The Gas Gas kinda is "light" on the choke circuit... BTW, if you twist the throttle "at all" while or just as you kick, most times this nullifies the choke circuit, least that is what I have been told. your mileage could vary, I've started mine when it was 22F, after rocking 12 times, in 2 kicks or less many times... this technique has worked for me, since the 1st "pro" model we bought, which was a plain old 04 300 Pro. the 06, then 08 raga, 10 raga, and now the 11 & 12 we have in our livery (all 300's), this works great, if it matters, worked as well on the son's lower CC models too!...

ShercoBen? you are so vague about what you are dealing with, I dont know what bike your screwing with. I think you best leave it with a dealer, have him estimate it all for you. You are aware that the clutch rattles on the 03 and newer bikes, Some can confuse this with piston, most of us can tell the difference. Hard to start, unresponsive, lost power: can be anything from carb problems (like dirt or stale gas plugging things in the carb) to incorrect starting routine. you definitely need to get this sorted, you could put new TOP END (cylinder and piston) and still not run right, if it is carb or even some have had ignition problems. so be careful, usually I let the people who should know enough, trouble shoot and tell ME what they think is wrong, how much to fix. If you take to someone and tell them you think such and such needs fixed, but it didnt, too many times I see them do it anyhow because you said you wanted it...

Carl, the rear fenders of the older bikes were prone to break easier, ESPECIALLY in COLD! It was something to do with the plastic "formula" as well as the grooved design that doesn't/Can't flex hardly, plus when they (mfg) coated them with clear coat, they got more brittle (least that is what I recall as this has been tru back from 02 pro through the 2009 models, except I think they tried to get different plastics "formula" by 2006, not sure I am just more careful now, after breaking a few in my past too. Above and beyond that, a pretty sure way to keep this from happening, is to remove the 2 side holders, and the bolt into the seat, that holds the fender on, this way it can pop off or nearly pop off before it breaks.... Others will chime in. I use the cheapest and thinnest zip tie in the side holes so I dont have to chase around for the fender all the time normal riding, but if I flip backwards, they break INSTANTLY and easily. Another way of course, don't fall down like that,, heheheheheeee. I cannot make heads or tails of your other questions about what your are practicing???? I've been practising as much as possible since, but seem to have no trouble getting up/over obstacles getting towards handlebar height now yet struggle hopping the front a rear end. Is this usual? Or am I learning in the wrong order? Really? what? I'm going to guess though... "Rear" hopping is usually harder, and not needed (in reality) until expert class (maybe difrerent outside of USA?). Front hops would have been extra great to use in Novice classes, but most don't even attempt that, until they've ran quite a few amatuer class, and now need that to help win... Big obstacle or small obstacles, the test is usually not the big rock/log/ledge itself! The test is can you make the tight turn, or recover everything from another obstacle in time to get yourself right, to make that obstacle... even I can ride a plain old dirtbike over a big rock, as long as I have 20ft to line up and prepare... Trials though, we usually slowly take that 20ft and make it 0ft, as you move up in skill/classes.

When you say "progressive" I want to make sure We agree on what that term is describing? To me this means that I can slip the clutch a lot more, with careful finger movement can change how much the clutch is slipping. this is great (IMHO) for most of us, non expert/master/pro riders that actually make turns, instead of hopping. The opposite of this is, for example when I used (SOrry Im from USA, so maybe you cant/havent tried) Automatic Transmission Fluids? I have ran ATF Type-F. this turned the clutch into a electric light switch (anti Progressive), the clutch is in or out, less progressive, very snappy. Dextron 3 seems less light switchy, if you get my idea for the point. I then used (now they {Gas Gas UK} say dont use it) GM's AutoTrak 2, which is ATF formulated Fully Synthetic, for a specific transmission on 4 wheel drive trucks with transfer cases that control the front drive tires... this let the clutch (to me, maybe I am wrong on the "difinition of progressive" all around) be able to use more areas of how much clutch I wanted the bike to have with my clutch finger. Please note: GM's AT2, is fully synthetic, but has some additives that they (Gas Gas UK) thinks hurts the clutch fibers... I will not tell you to use it, I no longer use it either. I like my Yamalube engine oil, that is is again nice and using my definition of "progressive"... http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/apparel/apscitemdetail/3/121/all/1/7455/detail.aspx If I am using progressive wrong, then sorry, been explaining this way for couple years, so I thought I knew what I meant, hoped anyone else did.

Photo bucket, google, flickr, there are litterally hundreds, many with "free account usage" up to some size limit. Flickr come free with AT&T/SBC DSL... they should all be fine, and have the same steps, you upload your picture, make them public, then you just need the "link" to the picture.

are you sure you ran the cable EXACTLY like the old one was?

That needle position is key in how much fuel gets mixed with air after ilde, to ( I dont have the knowledge to say "technically" where). so yeah lowing the needle (raising the clip "up") leans the fuel, what think you described or you saw was needle raised (more fuel sooner vs throttle position). I find it more deals with responiveness, once you get close with the correct jets. when looking at the needle remember the clip rings are at the top of the needle, so thats what I describe, lowering the clip to the ring below it, raises the needle, and vice versa. Plugged carb, then you cannot do anything until you get it clean, and it stays clean, then you (and only then) do you attempt adjustments... I'm no tuning expert, I get advice from others when I need it, you should as well, so Ill stand aside after this post of course. I know there was some 'not common to what I have heard" settings used at over 12000 ft in Nationals I heard about, and will try if I finally get to go to colorado someday to ride. I was under the impression you go smaller jets all around, but that was not the case. Guys that ride up that high, have it figured out, ask them.

All I can say is D'Oh! read that twice, still missed that... Must be the small print that catches my eye, lol

in 2003 (unless some previous or this owner changed it) the shock should be a Sachs shock, not Ohlins...