sting32

Hey, when you "No Stop" zealots go and compete at other sports or activities, um, lets say Golf for example? Do you take out your "Flintstones" era rock headed 3 wood or driver, and leather wrapped ball, and then pine around and tell everyone you know, how it would be more fun if nobody can use techniques we've learned in the past 100 freaking years? Sounds stupid when you say it out loud, "Lets all go back to 1970's era rules... yeeeeaaaah" I golf, I can hear you scream, Hey he's choking up on the club, or making the ball spin backwards on the green, I cant do that, that is unfair and (not as fun)! Well, to me, This is what you are blabering about when the NO STOP zealots refuse to learn to hop and or the other techniques, but want the sections redone to suit you and your antiquated riding style. BTW, Dont you all already have a governing/sanctioning body for old style riding??? Start your own "old farts on old bikes sanctioning body" and if need be "old farts on new bikes" sanctioning body? and while you are at it, riding with helmets seems to be "newfangled" along with stopping and hopping, so lets sneak a vote to dissallow them... I mean they didn't wear them in the 1903 until about 1980. wow, I think some good old Bell helmet hats and wool stocking caps would be a boon for getting teenagers interested in riding antique rules and bikes? Quit trying to take trials back to the stone ages, quit trying to make the boyscouts do girlscout's crap It is just typical Horse Crap, Zealots dont wanna do it, and aint gonna do it, but to be competitive and "fun" to them, they are going to change the stupid rules for everyone else?

Rich, that part you describe was not stock, sounds like some owner did that. kicker hits footrests, that is all there is too it. if you are using your body weight, to run the kickstarter (on a 125 no less) and you weigh above 90 lbs soaking wet, you are lucky you have NOT broken the side cover around the start saft. Use your leg, not your body to kick the starter. then the forces that meet when you hit peg, is almost nothing, unless you are related to the incredible hulk...

Apparenty the FIM figured that "afford it" problem, for "their" country's riders, make the organization that puts on the event pay for the rooms? Jesus Chrysler, who thought of that one? Isn't that what the "sponsor" for the riders/teams are for? I wonder, does formula 1 racetracks & promoters have to pay for Ferrari's drivers lodging (ok whatever team)?

I dont know everything, but all you can do is adjust how HIGH or LOW the pedal is compared to the footrest. Shorten the little rod on back of pedal, that goes into master cylinder, to lower the brake. Carefull to not go too low, but we usually shorten that shaft about 1 turn maybe 2 on each bike we've bought. You will probably just get used to how much you push on the pedal, when you adjust the height. I cannot think of a way to change how far the pedal would travel/applies pressure.

you cant eyeball the key on flywheel. remove flywheel check key. when you have spark & air/fuel, no way a 2 stroke with even 80psi compression wouldn't run. I had a ty 80 that had less than that, it would run, just not hardly any power or throttle response... It has to be a timing thing or bad spark thing. easiest thing is woodruff key, then is it a really good crisp blues-park, with the gap at 12-15 thousandths of an inch? (very small gap, yes) how wet is the plug, I guess it could be flooded. petcock off, THROTTLE FULL OPEN, and take out sparkplug, then kick repeatedly (12 times or more) to work the flooded crankcase out of fuel, reinstall plug and treat bike as if it has been upside down, flooded.

Find a saddle and cowboy boot repair shop, if you can. they have all kind of "trade secrets" (hammers and skill0 to fix that problem especially ankle area where semi easy to get to. Did this with cowboy boots i have had still for 15 years. Im sure a good place with boot guy can do it, but it is a quickly to be lost art.

Thank YOU, for clearing that up for me, at least.

That is what I understood, also note I'm not getting "official" information, just hearsay or web rumblings mostly... that is what is so wierd/dumb, they were going to try to call this years Raga the 2012, but then word was "they cant call it a 2012, becuase it is being produced in 2011".... but OH HELL, the 2012's you have now are built in 2011, so round and round it goes. I thought it would make more sense, to call the "PROTOTYPE Raga's by the year of production bike they will represent. So IMHO this years Raga, should been refered to as the Raga Prototype 2012. Then, the words Raga/Prototype would then Inherently mean, not only special, but early production/delivery But then I see it could goof people up on all the previous raga years/models. Ah, Oh well, I guess... Probably talking to myself too much, LOL.

Hey, I just want to throw this into the thread, I have a fan that squeeled for several years... when it would squeel, I pull back on the rubber cap, drip a couple drips of yamaha super lube on the exposed bearing, it would run a month or more then need it again. it never did fail, until son wrecked the bike busting the fan, at which time I had to get whole fan shroud unit... This seems more likely to be caused from Power Washing and getting water under that cap, IMHO. But I am not sure nor an expert. I do stay the hell away from fan motor when washing...

LOL, provide the link, or as they say at so many bulliten boards, it didnt happen (or doesnt exist). LOL I still can not find the dang thing, hard to show another person where it is... OK here is the document click here find page 8 ALSO note, the last one i got (6 months or less ago) the main thing was that the perpendicular line you have to imagine, intersects the gear anywhere, not just tooth shown... I tried to get tooth one for about 40 frustrating minutes, then gave up and hoped, and it workd. seems to me it intersected about middle or far left tooth in picture with "newest" parts shipped to me (I think it was July of 11)... Hope that that helps you out GasGasMi

I'll take that olive branch, if you will take my apology as well... I was a little touchy this week, sorry that I seemed really snotty back at you, it wasnt called for on my part... I just felt put down because for sake of discussion, I didnt want to buy the "future of gasgas" bike (raga) with old parts, and it was simply as a conversation piece. But hell, it is about perception, and for your sake, seems like we're more than 12 months behind you all here in the America's, as it is 2011 and you have 2nd batch of 2012 bikes available, dang. Plus the confusion of naming it 2012's for the raga, and then naming it back, but then going ahead with production of the 12 lines (which I thougth was the reason they couldnt name the raga the 12 model raga as they had planned?) Beats the hell out of me... well I was afraid I would be confused or others might be, when I posted the remark, LOL BTW, Are there RACE MODELS this year (Ahem) for 2012 models that is? I seem to not be the only ones on about the brakes and brands, as I now see the thread where several have "waited" for the next batch of production 2012, hoping for the new brakes as well. I never saw the press release for Formula and taking on supplying for defunct AJP, that is good news! In fact I had to read about 20 times/ or that many posts to realise that FORMULA was the brand name, not some gasgas's specuation or EU word for what brakes they would be going to use instead of AJP, or what not, lol. Later.

Hey, Snell has the DVD video owner's manual in chapter form here on youtube, http://www.youtube.com/user/GASGASinfo You will want to find the video he shows how to remove clutch backet & another how to remove and install the kicker. Video here, http://www.youtube.com/user/GASGASinfo#p/u/35/A80n7zq80n8 at the 1:56 mark or close, he shows installing the kicker shaft assembled... I think he covers getting it out as well. Dammit, on Jim's site (trialspartsusa.com) there used to be a document about how the kickstart parts have to be assembled, with a picture of where the spring goes through the shaft in relation to the dog ear gear! It is of course gone now! Anyway, maybe you get it with the part now, I might have saved the document on my machine at home... email me (sting32 on gmail dot com) if you dont get help with this part from Jim or whomever you get the part from, it is very important!

2 things to ask/comment: 1: There are pictures out of the 2012 NON RAGA models, they dont look like or seem to have the reiger shock, and I cant tell what brake controls they have... IMHO, if they still have AJP's on them, I wouldnt want one, who wants new bike with obsolete parts? I might as well buy a 4rt (Ha Ha) 2: Quoted above, "Raga300" says he has sold 2, but I thought they wouldn't have been in production yet, only Raga's were, at this time? Raga300 what are you talking about?

Cope, Definitely hot enough to have considered to head to NMTA's event, way way up on a hill, just because the expected high was under 80... I cant speak nor debate for the people in the "UK" since I will hardly ever get that chance to se one let alone ride one. But I do travel, I know a person that that travels even more, that mentions what I mentioned A LOT. You are using the mentality, that keeps "trials" as a ESOTERIC clan type thing. Pick a damn sport, again my list is motocross to fricken pickleball, in the usa, that people dont "assume" nor expect that there would and should be some dag blam consistantly consistant "rules" if nothing else for "normality". Damn, even those backwoodsy swampbuggy racing people from the south understand the idea of having standards and RULEs that are consistant. they dont build an "expert buggy" that is a "Pro Buggy" at the other club, dang. It is freaking rediculous that clubs cannot agree to have the 5 or 6 basic classes, as a standard, as well as how stuff is marked, from loops to sections. This way when you head from kalamazoo whereverthehell, and end up at MATT, NTTA, or RMTA, you could expect (within a fair amount of flex I assume) that if I ride at level 4 (intermediat, or CLUBMAN as it was at the NATIONALS) then I can PRE ENTER any event across the USA and know: what type of sections I would expect, more or less how daring, risky, and skills that the INTERMEDIAT class would be. No, today, I load my bike, head to farmville whereeverthehell's club, and have to go and double check the sections to see if this club's intermediate is everyone else's f'ing master class type of sections. I don't and my other friends or even my brother, doesnt travel across the USA, to race motocross, and wonder "what skill level" am I competing at, he knows he is ranked at a "bracket" that is accepted almost universal across the USA. They don't have to go "hmm, this class is for retired Pro 500 CC riders?" NO! He knows it is amature skill/class riders. Everyone they meets seems to be of similiar background, Skill, and and they enjoy the close racing. I also know, if I wanna try it out, that there is no use me entering that class, because I am novice or beginner motocross, no matter what track I goto. Plus they all pretty much mark the tracks all the same, tires or haybales. there arent tracks that suddenly think, "ya know what, I think there are like 40 or50 55 gallon drums out back at dad's farm, so we'll mark the tripple jump landing into turn 6 with those... Huh Hyuk" Shieet man, you (as a competitor) would jump up there and think you jumped clear off the track to the trash can area, by accident. They dont run around an mark football fields with Sharpies and paper plates. This is all s stupid arguement to say "aw hell, Ill cut branches off the ol pine tree out by section 5, and we'll paint them with used oil, ATF on the right, 10-w40 on the left, and use lighted Tiki torches for the exits. This kind of crap, might be "cool" or good enough for a weekend romp for a clan of beer drinkers out for a thrill, on TST (Tight Single Track) or off road trail ride poker run or hares crambles... While I mention hare scrambles & last man standing enduro competitons, you dont notice that they seem to have adopted a crap load of "rules or standards' that they think are important for competition and safety? Anyway, I dont think it is right for trials club to just decided to use these stupid old backweed ways, anymore than riding without a helmet is right for TRIALS competitions anymore. The whole country has been able to figure this out, there are good ideas and there are bad ones, lets work on keeping the good ones.

After a small hiatus from this site, I found this thread, with my last post. Half everyone missed the point, which is not difficult to do, because of my (lack of) writing style, which is basically type at less than half the speed that I think, and lose half the idea between fingers and the mind. My point is: It is NOT about controls as such, it is more about making things be "the same" from Maine to Cali... Some "standards" for competition. Directly at Copey, why even mark the sections then, wouldnt that be too "regulated"? Lets just all drive 150 miles and have a dam trail ride, then vote on who rode best, why even keep score, or even vote? Trials is a competition at it's core, it is the core and the 90% hard core people that show up to setup sections and collect the entry fees, pass out scorecards and punches et all. Maybe your club is a commecial venture, but I doubt 90% are. This means nobody is getting rich, or has any other reason to be president or any officer or even the trials master, EXCEPT the love of the "sport" of the thing we call TRIALS. Hell, Hard core trials enthusiasts, well, it is the ONLY reason trials events or clubs still even exists in the few states that have clubs. All I can say is, that the 20% of you that are there "just to have fun" are the ones that ride 2 or 3 times a year max, when the weather is perfect and there is nothing else to do "today". Maybe you are an exception copey, I dont know. but, You know I am right, for 99% of the non exceptions: everyone you know or have known that "gives up" on trying to push themselves to get better, aka loses the competitive (yet fun) spirit, sells the bike in 4-12 months from that day. So lets hope like hell, that people will enjoy trials like I have, but honestly the fun is beating the other guy. which means we have to have a way to "judge" that, aka trials & rules. end copey rant.... I mean at some clubs, a 5 is a 3, and some clubs have strong opinions about going backwards, vs forwards or sideways, then when you get to a national, you find what you have found completely acceptable, thrown out because the judge at some national's section #2 (making this up from a real scenario, numbers and names not actual), believes in "old school trials" and if you stop for any reason, that is a 5 in his mind. So, he can't wait to justify giving you a 5... It is this subjective BS that could be avoided if "EVERYONE" rode with same rules and expectations. Instead of club A saying you can veer outside the flags here (my favorite quote "a little") where most other clubs use ribbons that you cant cheat on, nor have to debate how much was too much cheating? Trials in the usa, is half rediculous, right now where novice at one club is amature at another. Where everyone makes "split signs" in whatever fasion they felt "might work OK (another quote "cause we're used to it") mentality. Then we have stupid asinine rules like 'cant take hand off handlbars with your foot down, even when it is 100+ degrees, or to even push your eye glasses back on your face (safety issue, not a foul, no sheet!) And this is all because 15 or 20 some years ago, competitors used to try to lift the bike by the back fender to improve his line/position. Lets make the rules Stipulate the problem, then. It is not the stopped and having to wipe the sweat from your eyes, or push glasses back on, no it was attempting to modify your line/bike attitude "with your hand(s) off the handle bars, that was the problem! Jesus Chrysler. Over doing this whole point thing probably, but NOTHING successfull in the USA has completely different set of "standards" from one end of the usa to the other. IMCA, Nascar, bowling, baseball, football checkers or pickelball, whatever... They dont say well screw it, we'll use 2inch strips of paper paper plates or some such BS, to mark the out of bounds or the goal line. it is kind of supposed to be a standard. This way everyone gets used to "in game conditions", be it in Los Angeles or freaking New York... This means the what and how to ride trials, and if you happen to be fortunate enough to travel, you dont lose 50-15% of your competitiveness just because you are used to the rules at yoru club, instead of as the NATC has mentioned like a COLORED by Class split marker, instead of a Paper plate with unledgable markings on it, when you are navigating the courses. No, standards are a good thing. football fields are 100 yards goal to goal, Marked with WHITE paint or chalk, and not 90 yards at Florida, and 110 in Colorado or marked with a Sharpie. I would like to also see a national site (we used to rely on Plonker's press for this) that would publish event results for all clubs. IT could probably be done as a forum where the secretaries for clubs logon and post the results in a specified form, then anyone else shows up to view without the rights to POST ANYTHING in that forum/thread... A place that is commercially funded like trials central could be such a place, but then again it could be a task USA should take on themselves (natc)? BTW, I like the NATC guys, & whenever I type out my complaints (rants), I dont/I am not hating of any of them, I complain about where I believe things are not quite right. nothing personal. Sure I tossed a flame towards Copey, but that is all in fun, I met him and dont have a bad thing to say about him. I know people pee an moan affter I seemingly peed and moaned on here, I really dont want to seem that way when you read it. Yeah, I need a better way to express my self sure, but frankly I can not figure out how to put it without losing the "point" or my opinion, from the politcaly correct adjective/adverb handbook, that I don't possess. Flame away...

just a FYI. I had an 04, that was fitted with the needle on the float, that was spring loaded (which means it was 3 pieces). The needle itself must have wore out, as it would jiggle itself almost apart, but then be stuck (temporarily) at considerably longer lenght (causing the floats to close the fuel inlet, at a much lower level. THis Issue, was found purely by accident, & cost me several hours at a 2 day meet... because I would take carb off assuming a dirt or something issue. at a meet living out of pickup, not all the good tools or places to work you know. after umteenth attempt (dissamble, reinstall, ride, run fine for a few minutes, then have issues...) I dropped the float while removing, which caused the needle to actually pop apart. while trying to put it back to gether, I ended up just crimping it to make it solid as possible to finish that weekend. I had posted this story back when, and barely think it might be related to what happens to you...

well, could be the oil, you could have a bad bearing behind the clutch basket, which is hard to identify without disassembly & inspection (comparison with one not noisy). the cluch basket gets "pushed on" when you pull on the clutch, this is why it quiets down. I had a clip come off the kicker shaft, and go through the gear on the clutch basket and the crank gear, had to replace the clutch basket to get things back to normal after that... Could be the kicker's idler gear is worn a bit, and is what is rattling the cage, and gets quieted when you pull on the clutch... Good luck, and let us know if you find the problem....

If forks are stiff (movement, not the spring strenght itself, which is also adjustable, by taking them apart...). I suggest you clean and change the fluid. I do NOT know what fluid weight is factory, but I'm 220lb person, and I like 7wt in my rebound fork, and 15wt fork oil in compression. Static height (strenght of the spring) is somewhat adjustable on the rear shock, there are 2 big rings you adjust to give more spring strenght or less, up to a finite point, then you can do what I have to do, order the "fat boy" spring, which is 20% stonger spring rate. try to get to stock setting, where as you place weight one middle of seat's lowest point, the bike goes down evenly on front and back ends, and only about 20% of the travel is used up (like 3 or less inches) this is called preload settings. I'm not talking about jumping up and down, right now just with your weight on the bike, IMHO it should be level for a good starting point. To get springs to be softer will be (the opposite of what I do in my narrative)... In the forks, there are 2 options only, you take the forks apart and work on the spring asembly: 1. you can add to (or remove from) the PVC pipe (Please note: you actually replace existing or stock lenght with one of custom length described below) that is in the middle of the 2 srings... There has to be someone who knows, right now it is NOT ME... but If memory is "even close" the stock piece of PVC tubing installed from factory is like 2 or 2.5 inches long. I've replaced the existing with another piece of tubing that measures 1/2 inch longer to make stiffer springs. you will probably need to do the opposite to tune for a lighter springweight, if you are lighter than last owner. 2. Lately I have 2 (a pair) of 10% stiffer fork springs, thus I have spring rates that are 20% stronger than stock setup when both are installed. I keep these springs, that I take with me from bike to bike as I go (I hope they dont change fork MFG's for a while ) However, since I have lost some weight, I am about to take 1 spring out of the front and put the stock rated one back in. but right now, hot summer, I like my front not diving under... but when it is wet slippery my front is way too stiff I think, now that I lost over 50 lbs. Now the speed at which the forks operate in either up or down, is controlled by a fork, one is up (rebound) other is down (compression), dont ask me which is which, as it can change if someone put the bike together differently than stock, but red was one the other is the other, lol. OIL viscosity or weight, makes big changes, then the adjusters on the fork tops, make kind of minor changes... Bigger weigth numbers slows the action for that fork... that is basic info that I understand, there are people out there that understand it a lot better for tuning, and get paid to do so, LOL.

Make sure you do NOT change the kicklever position on the Pro bikes, as the footpeg "IS" used as the limiter for how far the lever can go (wrapping up the insides). if you move the lever forward, you can break things internally, according the Snell's video's that come with the PRO trials bikes new. Most all these vids are on YOUTUBE as well, (http://www.youtube.com/user/GASGASinfo).

I get sick of this thread and ones like them because: We do NOT need a world round. We dont even have a competitor at that level. Our freaking organization in the usa, cant (apparently for 30 some years) even stipulate basic rules, Example: 1. Class structures, for one. Intermediat is expert is novice, depending what part of the USA you live in. 2. Course (section) marking and rules. Some clubs wanna ride this way, that way, shipts! I saw flags at some trials for boundries, who the hell uses flags anymore? 3. sandbagger movement all but the pro class, seem to have a theory about national competitions, that theory is "I'll pick a class that I think I have more than a 80% chance of winning. This is apposed to the ideal that everyone that rides "expert" level would get to the nationals to see who is the top expert. But there is the problem, (see #1) what exactly is expert Who the hell cares? motocross used the be inexpensive sport, you spent what you felt you needed to on your bike. not anymore, entry fees have skyrocketed, you have to be in AMA, track members, amongst lots of other things, which costs money... Which then is confiscated so in the end all we accomplish is, we support some overpriced sodapop or energy drink, that apparently hasnt figured out that there is an economic crissis in the usa, and just again raised the prices on their products, all at the time where the whole damn country is screaming bloody "uncle" with higher taxes, higher cost of living, and no goddamn jobs... Yep, my vote practically and selfishly is... keep it a "turd" as Ishy says... Well wait, actually to me it is more like keep it a "Baby Ruth" (caddyshack reference) To the uninitiated it Looks like a turd, and can clear a pool, but we know it really is good.

Ok, in 06 they redisigned the "spring" in the pro engine's clutch, since you say 05 "txt" I still assume youre talking about the Pro models... if NOT, the information is worthless for you... It is called a bellville spring, it is just one big ring around your clutch below the 12 or is it 16 bolts on the clutch pack, it is not flat... see gasgas spain's website for parts breakdowns, or youtube has video, if you stop at gasgas.com (usa) website to see links to Jim Snell's maintenance videos, you should find the video easily. The spring is cheap, replace the one you have, I did that on my 04, and loved it.

THis is just a comment or FYI, about that bolt... when my dad got his 2010 raga rep, LAST year... the importer to the USA removed that cap bolt and the washer that is in the bottom of the clutch basket, completely, and he recommended that I do the same with my 08 raga pro, kind of hinted all pro's don't need that bolt... I have a buddy with an 02 pro, that bolt has been gone since it was pretty new, never had problems with it. I guess at least one these have come loose, for a couple of the big dogs over here in the USA? I haven't had my case open (well i should say, had it open and remembered) to take the bolt and washer (shaped like a hat) out of mine yet. Looking to do more clutch adjusting, then I will... heck Ill be shaving some weight