sting32

Copey, did I miss something? who is BS and why would I want her?

I agree with you JSE & Motovita, I think Copey was off his meds when he posted that one... (Joke) We might have coherse him to put in his signature, "opinions expressed by this poster, do NOT necessarily reflect the views or opinions of USA or other americans" like they do for radio stations, lol (/Joke)

That is a great point. I would add that: In the 70's and 80's, most of the dirtbike/cycle shops had a flyer up and those boards were pretty much in plain sight at least if you were in the shop for parts. Been to shops nowdays nothin like it used to be, IMHO. It doesnt help that no shop, or dang near no shop, has a trials bike in the showrooms either. it seems a trick situation: no bikes - no market - no growth. But no market because no bikes in shops to spark interest.

If he says he'd ship, be sure to get 1 more when you order... Oh and cookie might like one?

New information: Can't post the PDF, but here is the important Text. At the Red River Motorcycle Trails in Bulcher, TX Main Gate Large Pavilion Area Event Sign-ups: @ 8:30 a.m. each day and Rider

This is confusing! Someone in Texas tell us how you plan to run this event? http://www.ntxtrials.com/events/10_lonestar_nov67_muen.html at the bottom it reads: Event to be held at the main pavilion area. Friday night or early Saturday / Sunday arrivals call Tom Batchelor 972-754-9686 or Bob Duval 972-965-9845 for the gate code. Then it reads (after helmet info) Event to be held at the 3rd gate riding area. Combination 3500 Please close and lock the gate like a good cowboy! So, I am ready to ask, which is it?

Well, Wondering if anyone here (TCentral) is going? Hoping for great weather on the border of Texas and Oklahoma, be there or be un round. http://www.ntxtrials.com/events/10_lonestar_nov67_muen.html'>http://www.ntxtrials.com/events/10_lonestar_nov67_muen.html Facilities Information: http://www.redrivermotorcycletrails.com/ This place even has the event on its calendar. Quick info. Geographical Coordinates: North 33° 48' 40.129" West -97° 27' 35.464" It seems http://www.ntxtrials.com is the host, info on the site.

The problem is, that you are unable to see that the that the sresses that "oil" is set to protect in the engine are so extremely different in trials bikes and uses/demands of the oil in them are so different, than any other application. like chainsaw, MX, Enduro, lawnmower etc... Like Jon was saying, different stresses. our trials bikes tend to run at idle 80-90% of the time we're using them, in competition or practicing of TRIALS. No other piece of 2 stroke powered equipment I own, is used in this manner like a trials bike in trials. Think about it, My weed trimmer/chaisaw is running full blast, when triming, just like race bikes. WHY they need more oil? helps with friction buildup by sheer volume, much like High Volume oilpumps are used in racing engines to keep a coating of oil in place, as best that can be attained, when the parts are centrifugally trying to fling the oil off the parts to be protected, so you put more oil hoping some of it stays in place, so yeah, racing engines it gets oil at recommended lower ratios. In a trials bike, At idle, the gas oil mixture isn't but hardly drawn into the crankshaft area where it lubes the cylinder & crank bearings. then on next stroke it is pulled on into the cylinder side and lubes again, plus it burns a little bit. with trials, the oil and gas actually has a tendancy to build up in the crankcase area, because we're idleing so much. Too much oil stored up makes a trials bike run like crap when you need some rpm. plus the rest is pumped out the exhaust (smoke). so you will see our better_more engine demanding riders having to do "clean-out" throttle reving routines more often, on their bikes, to get that hard on the throttle jump to an obstacle, clean running engine pull. What is nice is the storing of the oil in the crankcase area that happens, usually ensures that if I need a full throttle blast at something, there is more oil in the crancase, usually than would be if I ran full throttle all day long like a MX bike does, with its richer oil premix. But this condition is temporary when revving! I would venture to bet, on the part about "wear" that: With NO oil in the gas, that a trials bike engine will operate for at minimum, 6x the amount of time, at such duty cycles they are prone to run at, vs the MX bike or other appication engine. So really what I am saying is, the wearing of the piston/cylinder is already soooo much less in trials, the difference of a percent of a very small percent of wear, would seem to be almost negligible. especially compared to the loss of performance with "over oiling" your gas. My opinion of why oils for 2 strokes state "good up to 50:1" is the target audience. It is because 95% of the engines that use the oil need richer oil mixtures. I mean, who writes on twinkies that there is only 0 calories & Zero fat, if you'd just spit out the twinkie instead of swallowing? Who out of millions does this, and why write that? LOL. Does "do not operate blow dryer in the shower" ring a bell?

It will be different, no doubt, look how different the bikes are to the eyes. Trials as you can tell from the bikes, has totaly different set of issues to deal with, lightness, ease of putting foot down (somewere) when in an akward rock climbing sitation (2nd reason for no seat), and more. They have 2 wheels, engine, tank, and same idea behind the controls, But the rest of the bikes are profoundly evolved machines, suited to do trials very well. Once you get a few things sorted, and then familiar with the bike, I forsee less time in the garage! Air cleaner and trans oil changes are usually all I have to do, inspect for loosening parts, then oil chain and go ride. about 30 minutes each month I figure, depending on crashes of course.

I have the 20% stiffer springs front and back, and honestly for my body weight, there is none or little static sag. that I believe, is because the weight of the bike without rider is less than half total race weight. (bike weight is 150 lbs, me 230+ lbs) so the adjustments to make the bike hold the rider at the reasonable race sag, probably has to be expected. the bike doesnt seem to mind, and I would concede the point you made, but even newer bikes with softer springs, will bang the tops when weight is unloaded. So would that not be normal wear and tear?

Kay, All the gasgas Pro model trials bikes "drag" a little bit, I think all brands might be the same way, but I dont know this to be true, and by drag I mean it tries to move if stopped "slightly" when clutch pulled in. if you compare to street bikes and such, it seems "bad" but it isnt. Some of it is affected by the type and amount of oil in the transmission, But rest assured a lot of it is overlooked because the trick to the clutch operation is the ease in which you pull the clutch with one (your index) finger. WHen you get to riding trials, the clutch will be being held slightly slipping the clutch at almost all the time, while going slow, so the pressure it takes to pull that clutch needs to be easy. To gain the ease, we have had to give up some of the travel (where the forces seperate the clutch discs). When you know you are going to park (need to get neutral) do like I do, as you get close to where you want to be & while rolling find neutral, or shut it off, LOL Then main thing you have to be concerned about is the free play on the lever, where it pushes into the little cup shape ended pin, that pushes the plunger inside the master cylinder. The plunger HAS TO be allowed to come all the way back to rest against a circlip. This "at rest" position is where the plunger exposes holes to allow the Hydraulic fluid (brake fluid) swap places with the resivior, IE: to allow the expanded by heat oil out or into the line to majically adjust itself to conditions. Make darn sure that when you move the lever, there is like 1mm or so of play (at the plunger side I am talking about) before that adjuster screw starts pushing the plunger, which is behind the little cup shap ended rod that the adjuster pushes on. I do this by pushing on the cup ended rod with my fingers, to make sure I can move that rod a tiny bit (there is slack). if nothing else you should carefully feel a gap when you pull the lever from at rest position. It is critical, that there is a little slack there as described best I can say it. hope this helps.

Another trick I seem to show fellow gasgas owners here in the states is, to place the bike in gear (preferably 3rd or 4th) put on the choke, (as stated above DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE) rock it back and forth (do this with enthusiasm at least 6 times) It seems to be causing the piston to go up and down and this pre charges the cylinder. For me, even when cold as "well diggers a***" out, it will start in 2 kicks (for me usually 1). if not repeat the rocking process. If nothing else the routine saves wear and tear on your knee, kick lever and innards of the starting system. My pop figured this one out, works great on any pro model, hell about any bike (if it doesnt flood easily).

hope I am too late, but if you can get a base gasket (gasket under cylinder base/bottom) ordered that is thicker than what you have, you will lessen the power, do one or the other but that head spacer looks to be a way to go. The kehin carbs are NOTICABLY quicker on the bottom end, not sure why... but the problem here is that swapping to delorto means you need the other reed block assemby(?), throttle cable? I'd try the slow throttle maybe and the 10 tooth sprocket on front, this and the suggestions from BETABETA could definitely soften the bike, make it easier to ride. Plus as you get better you can undo these mods. You should have your finger on the clutch slipping the clutch 70-80% of the time you ride a section, even more when you need to go slow or have more "control of the bike" so if you can cause yourself to learn this technique faster, the bike wont seem "so big" IMHO.

Very possible that if someone replaced the seal, to have put it in backwards. Devil's in the details.

John, Has anyone got the amount of oil you put in the front forks of the 06 and newer Marzoochi forks, instead of filling to some "level" measured from top of extended fork tube? I need to make a quick change of a spring, and the level thing is a huge pain, would rather measure out some oil and be done, like we used to on those older forks. Anyone? (I know spinner, but there has to be a "close enough" CC level?

That is Rich, comming from the man who's "nickname" is synonomous with one of the freaking heaviest trials bikes ever produced, each year they have been in production (Honda). If you are actually EJ, then I respect what you accomplished, but still. sorry maybe the "factory rider" bikes were competitively within "weight"... but the ones being shipped were way heavy bikes compared to competiton at the time (model year).

Just to be "Fair" what years? I mean comeone man, my 08 is lighter than my 06, dad's raga 11 is ligher still, and so on, lot has to do with footpeg position, bar position, and more for criminey sakes, it is stupid to say "got off the old gasgas (forgot to mention that the gasgas was a 99 model,,, D'oh) and got on the beta and now the beta seems lighter" As far as I know it is what you did. Hell every year the same make bikes seem lighter to the older bikes they had, sheesh. No way in h3ll the 4rt seems lighter than the pro's since the same age, NO WAY. Has to be another factor biasing your thoughts.

You are kidding right?

Well, I thought I would remind you all, hoped the club's people would, but I did it now. http://www.octobertest.com/ Note they state you better bring extra gas! PS leave early, you know how crappy the roads are in Oklahoma!

In my previous post, I WANT to retract the part where I said try a bigger pilot jet in the carb, to calm it down a little. It seemed like a good idea at the time, and running around the garage... But in the trials, it sucks. My beasty was hard to take with it slobbering at idle to 1/4 throttle then it would run better, but it was not recovering from over rich idle the same every time, and wasn't worth the scare factor, and IMHO made me less confident on what the "bike was going to do when I cracked the throttle."

The newer style fatbars are so much better, I doubt they are "wider" than stock/new they look like the trials bend. most all new bikes come with fatbars. they flex a lot more than crossbar types of old. FWIW, you really should find the club closest to you, you will find bikes forsale near you to compare prices, not that the nice sherco you found isnt a good dealio. To find clubs nearest you, goto http://www.natctrials.org Click on Club Directory button, many (not all) clubs have a forsale section, helps you see what people think bikes are worth, for comparison, plus there are importer pages, and dealer pages. Welcome aboard!

Al, I did what you're doing now, only 11 years ago, and a "bike" ago. the new bikes are much "quicker" than we had back in the 80's or earlier. What you can do to soften the hit on the Gasgas is 3 things, semi easy: (after you go back to 10 or 11 counter sprocket). 1 richen the pilot jet a notch, as long as it doesnt load up and die it will be blubbery less crisp and easier starting. 2 find a trials gasgas mechanic that knows his stuff, the base gaskets (under the cylinder) are sort of color coded for thickness, or least they used to be. I have taken my 300 (via my Gasgas Mechanic) to a thick bas gasket .008 mm instead of the .003, this lowers the compression slightly and makes the bike (slightly) softer like we used to be comfortable with. Softening will help you build confidence and to keep the bike UNDER you. Slow throttles wear my wrist out, but many use them. Black throttle is slow, white is fast (that is the tube the grip sticks onto and runs the cable). Be careful, over softening can bite you later, soften it like I said as you gain confidence, go back. that way when you get the next bike (newer) it won't be such a HUGE jump, like I have myself just this last month, have had to adjust to. 3 lastly, depending on year and possibly model, the carb can be changed. The Delorto on a 300 is much softer and smoother (IMHO) than the Kehin. Now "S3" is a company making accessories, they make variable compression heads (you swap inserts for different compression). if the 300 is "older" the rings will be worn and the bike already should be softening up. I came straight to trials from Expert class in the USA of the 1984, to the older "TXT" (the model before the pro we have now) which was softer and as I got better I wanted it to be less soft. I ride Sr Expert now, which is like intermediat with some easier expert lines. My father who is 74 years old joined me, he rides Amature, he does better with the 10 tooth countershaft gear with 41 or 44 rear. because the amatures dont have BIG objects mostly big 3ft logs or there abouts. I cant stand the 10 on front becuase like you said, slippage due to leverage the engine gets, you can nullify that by running in 2nd instead, to see if you will like the 11 tooth, while you have your 9 on there, it should feel about like a 11 in first. Everything is done with the CLUTCH, you slip the p*** out of them to go slow, 78% of the time my clutch is NOT in fully enguaged mode, while riding the sections. Big stuff is 2nd gear or 3rd with my 11 tooth & stock rear (give and take as you get better you wil modify to your liking). With you just getting back to trials, this will take about 4 months of intense practice to get "comfortable" with A: slipping the clutch all the time, and B: using 2nd or 3rd even though you are riding really slow and tight portions of some sections, before the big stuff. Actually I shift if at all possible, the old Bultaco Sherpa-t's were hard to shift with shifters all bent out of the way, if you recall BUT, these bikes are easy to shift. Hope you get along well, it has been more fun than I remember even though I'm older, Many here will argue, and mine above is an opinion, use what you see fit, and give em hell.

IF the website is any indication, information might be there, but unaccessable, lol, the bike could be "technology is there but unaccessable as well. I mean, I cant even get the pictures to show in IE8, once you close one. Stupid to make a site so "fancy" that you have to be <13 years old to even have a clue on how to look around... Most trials people are probably less adept at the web, I bet. Air Intake, couple ways easily not seen, around this, by having the exit of the airbox be higher up inside the box, than the bottom, with weep/flaps where water could collect. I think the problem is going to be the PRICE, to the usa it is expected/rumored to be close to or exceeding $9000 that's a lot. IMHO, by now Upside down forks only affect the used market place, with the usuall complaint on older bikes with seals that will be prone to leakage... But the forks in upside down configuration, I understand are easier to control more of the dampening of the whole setup, and modify how it works compared to std forks. So if you protect the forktubes, & if you replace the seals as they get worn, AND dont scratch the tubes part (hell I have bought and seen many bikes that had scratched those on old style forks) so how different is that, well it would be more of a problem on upside down of course? It could be one helluva machine, for the Pro's.

That is why I asked, I was thinkin if he didnt get stator tight, or aligned exactly where it came off... that it could be advanced. I was just thinking out loud, if like me last bike before the new fangled stuff, had points ya know, might not known... FWIW, I had bultaco that would run backwards, when timed badly by us, if you bumped the tree just right, and it happened on a riverbank (deep river too) when that happened. luckily it throws you over the bars when it did that, Scary stuff. lol

Jon, (or anyone) correct me, but can you mannipulate the timing, by changing the degree in which the stator plate is installed on the older txt engines? I know the pro has the induction/flywheel location pickup pretty much unadjustable mounting since no longer on the stator, but I am not sure about the older bike engines. on older points type bikes you moved the stator to adjust timing, what about the TXT engines? Where is the pickup for flywheel position, isnt it on that stator plate as well? Looking at the old parts manual on GG-ES pages, looks like slotted holes to mount stator?