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sting32

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Everything posted by sting32
 
 
  1. Time for you (scottie) to update the forum with your thoughts then. I had my 2010 Raga 300, with my FWW that I then took to my 11 Raga Pro. I find that without FWW, the 10 is VERY quick accelerating, after say the bottom of the revs, mid revs, it is FAST! I did NOT feel like I had slowed my 11 down that much, but then again I had to swap bikes quickly when it was available so I just took my FWW to the newer bike. it will be fun to see, when I get the 2010 sold, and move to the 2012, to ride my 11 without the FWW and see if it acts the same way? some of it is changes made to tuning from factory, I just assumed but you can feel the FWW off on my 10, pretty big time. For What it is Worth, I ride all clutch, or at least MOSLTY rev and slip clutch to "go" so throttle response seems to be less a big deal as being able to be really smooth? I lug my bike a little on a hill, get better traction with FWW, than without, because the 10 will "peel-out" or spin tire in same section (practicing) with everything else being same for 99% most part. Again IMHO that is.
  2. actually, wet doesn't seem to bother except if you have it grounding out with water droplet in the right place? magnet sends ignition pulse out the wire on the "pickup" or sensor, the windings produce electricity that does everything else. weak spark is not uncommon on these bikes, I use a CHEAP flimsy business card to gap the sensor to flywheel, can help spark, water in there means you probably have too tight bolts on cover which can cause it to distort and leave gaps on bottom, OR water getting access at the grommet on top of flywheel area on the case. put some silicone sealant where the wire's sleeve (insulator) goes through the rubber grommet, into the case, so water can't get in easily, IMHO Im talking about sealing the insulator for the wires, IMHO don't seal that up into all the wires. this way, it can act like a vent if you just seal the insulator where it touches/passes through the grommet, I think so anyhow, so that is what I do. Another hot start thing I had, was lean jetting on the bike for your particular altitude. I exclusively ride my 300's in 1000ft elevations, year round. When I had bigger jets the bike starts easier... IMHO. I have leaned my newer bike a "size" on jets, and it now too starts IMHO again slightly harder HOT. So I just rock the bike a couple times, in gear, charge cylinder a little extra fuel, starts about same when I do that. Winter time, doesn't seem to affect me much. Im not positive, been 4 bikes since I had the Delorto on my engines, you probably should see what others are using in your clubs, or your event you are riding, at least?
  3. Ok, I'm a North american, and dont know anything about the subject I just started... and haven't seen, maybe someone has posted all of this info in another thread? But is Hebo dead? I'm due for more boots, I have 2 worn out pairs now. I tried the "latest" style a couple years back, the new ones with booties in them, they suck, wont fit my feet so I just kept wearing my originals. now I see I can't even find those anywhere in the UK sites, nor Ebay anymore. So what have you guys that were satisfied with hebo's classic boot, moved to? I can't be the only person with 4 year old Hebo boots that are starting to wonder what to replace them with?
  4. YOU CANT EVEN SEE the friggin bike in that vid. "cool" " very good" and "new engine"? What the hell? Hey, there is a picture of the 2015 model 4rt installed on your computer!!!!!!!!!! you wanna see it? (just turn your monitor screen off, you will see it).
  5. so, did you get to keep the Delorto?
  6. Zip, I did the same thing, I had to leave it tight, like you describe before backing off. it broke in fast. if it doesn't not that hard to back off. I backed off the 1st one I did, about 15 hours later it had slop, this time never have had slop. maybe I backed off too far the 2 times I did, I dunno?
  7. Bil, there was a post about troubleshooting, there are 3 problems to double check, before you have to replace anything including the fan motors. first thing to do is see if your fan works, take a 12v battery and hook some leads to it so you can touch to fan, if fan runs still, then you know it is one of 2 things left. Check your ground wires for corrosion & continuity, then you have to put fan back like it should and short the lead that hook to the "thermo-Switch" (many call it a thermostat) all that switch does is make the leads "magically" touch when water gets to the right temp. if the switch is bad, no fan. that switch interupts the lead from fan to ground, until it gets within the range of 170-180 degrees water temps. if shorting the wires together (I use a paperclip to touch both terminals on the thermo, while engine is running. fan fails to turn on, then you might have rectifier problem (again assuming you proved your fan will run on a 12v battery somehow. there is more advice I believe, on gasgas.com "tech" pages... or find mr JSE, he knows more details like multimeter readings you can check, I think.
  8. Dont they (SHerco) bother to have parts diagrams for those damn bikes somewhere? (ROFL).
  9. Well, After reading your own story, I have to just laugh and Consider the source, Neutron, lol. Anywho, when I hear a person say/type "detonation..." Well, a dumbass like me assumes he's smart enough to know that word and what it means, and it affects my troubleshooting thoughts, as I have assumed he's ruled other things like that, out... And, since I cannot see/hear the bike. So YEP. it Damn well could just be a rattle, hell I have seen the chain on a few bike so loose and old and dry, that even it rattles enough to be scary, on a neglected bike or dozens actually. I mean I take my car to a mechanic, I don't use words like "detonation" I say knocking or rattling, or something generic, so they (paid mechanics) don't jump to "HIGH DOLLAR" solutions only, lol. one time it was just a loose bolt on the motor mount, go figure?
  10. No bid dealio Dom! I was just thinking he might have to wait a while, you know being a gasgas forum, and I aint ever had no sherco...
  11. so was power loss due to crap in transmission? base gasket leak could spelled doom for the piston (running lean let alone dirt/water entering the bike).
  12. Wrong forum? (your title says sherco).
  13. You could have an Air leak... I know blown seal in crankcase, behind flywheel can cause this, getting air from sources other than carb... my 08 raga had gasket leak at base of cylinder head... so check things out, definitely sounds lean condition to me. IF you bought from higher altitude, you MUST re-jet, takes more air in higher altitude to make the bike run very well at all, compared to low country. Low country bike will starve for AIR (choked) in Higher altitudes, which isn't so much a threat to the engine... Example, I bought a 2001 321 from above 5500ft elevation (denver), to where I live in the 1000ft, running denver (above 5000 ft altitude) jets turned the chromed head pipe blue right at the head for about 5 inches, in less than 10 minutes, and IMHO would burn a piston rather quick in KS (near 1000 ft) FYI...
  14. Also, when tightening the bolts that hold axel in place, bounce/compress the forks, a few times, so everything lines up. I have one "bind a little" when axel tightened in the "incorrect order" on the old bikes, the fork bottoms can try to be closer than the tops where triple clamps are, so just a guess... This is all assuming JSE and Lineaway's ideas aren't the issue.
  15. mpower, I don't think the difference between 10w/30 10w/40 make much difference, but I like the "semi Synthetic" properties of the yamalube, I ran 0w/30 of it for a while, like it the best, but the last few bottles I have in shop are 10w/30 and I didn't notice the difference when riding. TO me it is probably volume. try less than 400cc (TRIALS RIDING ONLY< NOT DIRTBIKING) I do 375cc. I cant tell you how much difference it makes, I dont believe I have ever had 400cc in my PRO models, since the guy that puts ours together out of the crate pretty much told me to do it this way. I know some were scaring the BeetleJuice out of everyone about Synthetics, least the Yamalube hasn't been an issue for me or my friends... But dont believe I had any issues from autotrak2 either.
  16. Unfortunately the video starts at the "mid way" trough the section. That section has part we've faced before, and I love all but the finish rock... That last rock is deceptive, as you jump up it, your tight against some trees, Trust me, the camera, filming with National Champ Pat Smage, on ty80 just doesn't show it. Course that day, I'm probably the only person to fight that finish rock ALL 3 loops... which is not usual for me at least, lol. JSE, any tips for riding with cracked or bruised ribs? LOL, When I sneeze I see stars if not passing out for split second, but I have to make this weekends rounds.
  17. I almost agree with Lineaway (mark the date in infamy)... But 280 is GREAT depending on your size, 250's are nice, and there are some "I have to admit" issues you might have with the "cutting edge" leader production trials bikes, that you might not have with older Sherco's (IMHO the ones he pointed you too are just like our old 1999-2003 plain old TXT models. There are some parts that are lightweight, but by 2010 ( I still have our 2010 300 Raga Pro) that seems to have made a slight progression away from broken kickstarter/Idler gear issues... IMHO 2 things about buying a bike, being NEW to the sport has some to do with your experience and your buddies/club friends you have riding trials. Here in KS, I live near the Importer for gasgas, there are lots of GG's per capita of riders near me. I notice Texas/Oklahoma there are still more gasgas riders than BETA/SHerco/Honda/Scorpa/Ossa combined. But texas probably has more riders total, and I saw more than 3 Scorpa's lol, unlike around me, NOBODY has had one. It helps if there are people that can and will help with issues. Just like me, I can help with GG, but I know "jack crap" if you ask me about any of the others, except you know generic ideals that transcend any bike... I think that 280 would be great in 2 reguards, even if you have to 'tune it a little. low compression head is a step higher than you might need to go, but flywheel is wise IMHO for ANY newbie, Jet the bike a little on the FAT side, the delorto isnt nearly as snappy on the bottom end as the Kehin that is sold on RACE & RAGA models. 250 of the same era (07-2013) would be nice, but if you are a bigger boy I wouldnt want anything less than a 280 by the time I got even say, winning the novice class regularly, when that time comes you will be in control of the bike IMHO and would probably take out some thing like the low compression head. I watched a guy that found a really nice 200, he'd move down to it from his older 280, the 200 plunked and died on a rocky side hill section which side hill'd him and he fell a long way. the 280 wouldn't have died, but then again proper technique on even a 80cc trials bike, you can do anything (video is my proof of that point)! BTW that was the same section I rode 3 times, I dropped 4 points on that "Smokey and the Bandit Sherrifs voice" Some-Beach" I was embarrassed to admit it even before I saw this video...
  18. Long as it isnt a grinding "crunching walnut shells" sound, you are ok, gear box is neat and complicated, I saw a post with how the gears work in a picture somewhere... might been Thumpertalk, I thought it was here though. another showed why clutch basket makes noise, good reads and viewing to point to, if I have time Ill find the links, and see if "Chief Geek" of this site, would mind stickying it...
  19. Find out what your buddies use, I like 10w/30 yamalube in mine, I use 370-375 cc's (which equals half a sight glass full, when bike is TIRES on ground, level ground held as perpendicular to the ground when checking.) Facts is: Clutches drag on gasgas, when you think about it, and get used to it, you will modify how you approach getting neutral, or you will get a different brand of bike, as so many want neutral more than the rest of the bike's abilities... ! I like the clutch drag, I use it all the time in sections honestly, and it isnt that much drag when things are setup right. Youtube can show you how things have/should be setup, including lever adjustment. if the bike is older than 06, get the 06 clutch spring, it is easier to pull. as far as routine/your approach to finding neutral here are 3 tips I use every riding day... 1 find neutral when engine is off, or 2 before you come to a stop, or lastly by hand (right hand on clutch, pull up with your left hand is easy enough to find neutral 4 of 5 times, 5 of 5 with practice and good "muscle control"...
  20. I get the ones gasgas sells, I just now know to pack with grease when installing, and pack again in 6 months, they have lived well. I use heavy performance waterproof grease when I do it... try not to aim High Pressure washer at them of course.
  21. Bar end on throttle side,can be a tricky beast if you don't do it carefully though. some throttle tubes, you need to go ahead and cut the end off, that end that seems to wrap around the end of the bar, trust me. This is so you can move the throttle assembly in a little on the bars, so you dont have 2 issues, 1 being grip rubs on bar end, 2 is tube rubs on bar end... IF you fall on that bar end, it can and HAS been known to smash itself up against the throttle TUBE, and even when grip is cut right, it is now jammed against the bar end, which causes the tube to hold the throttle from returning to idle, like it should. look at it and make sure. I keep my throttle bolts too tight probably, but throttle cable is routed UNDER the front brake lever to protect it... I try to not fall, this weekend I flipped over handlebars, but I didnt even get to see if bike fell, the bike never died and the guys picked it up before I got up to see where and how it landed... I was "self assuring" myself that I wasn't hurt (laying on my back 4 ft away)... LOL. I dont do bar ends, but I use a throttle tube with the bearing on it. there is a bearing model throttle assembly I have been told, with bar end you can get. bearing makes the throttle REALLY easy to twist, takes a couple minutes to get used to how easy to twist it is, some people hate it, I love it. You have to cut down the handlebar on that side, so it stays with the bike, unless you move/swap everything to next bike...
  22. Please do, I have 2 newbies I have recruited, and I keep "on the fly" trying to replicate such a list, lol. I really would make one, if I would quit posting (find the time).
  23. Good post Squid. Every bike takes a few seconds for experienced riders to get used to, so give yourself time to just get used to the bike...
  24. Jon! We have a link to a neat sheet for the "pre pro" Gasgas trials bikes, seems it is on tech page or something... It is that PDF document, that folds up and you keep it in the toolbox, or ahem, we did). We need to make a new one for 02-13 pro. Get on that will you? (LOL!!!! joking)
  25. sting32

    First Gear

    Coops, for "lower Classes" I should say gearing the bike down a bit (smaller sprocket, they're cheap enough or used to be). What I didn't like was, and this would be conjecture I guess, assuming you want to improve, and move up as far as possible in the classes in the next couple years.... But, say you get to top of your amature class, and still riding the slow geared bike? It took me a long long time to convince my dad to go back to stock gearing, because when he rode same stuff I do {practicing mainly}, he'd gas the bike, rear wheel would first slip, AND my stock geared bike would cover slightly more ground for the same "blip" so to speak, and he'd and come up short. FWIW, after a short testing period, well he's gone back to smaller front, but rides in second though, kinda works for him. they ride more slow tighter turns, tricky little things... so it fits him, and those in that class. So I guess I say dont be afraid to try it... especially starting out I guess?
 
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