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sting32

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Everything posted by sting32
 
 
  1. There is a "spring" that clips onto the elephant ear shaped kick lever gear, than can fail and or be bent and such when you or maybe someone else replaced the gear (most likely older than 08 bikes the gear has failed at some point)... To where it doesn't grip enough to engage the elephant gear "up" into the idler gear that spins the clutch pack, that starts the bike. I have had to replace these springs, in a couple of older bikes, plus make an adjustment on my bikes, because of "tools" or what have you to get that spring on, loosens the grip, IMHO... I have a write up/reply about it, somewhere on this forum. But what happens is the spring has to be very tight, to the gear, sometimes (if spring is only bent kind of out of shape, but I have had 1 of them where the spring is broken/cracked at the "pan handle" that I had NOT made my "adjustment" on, (aka not my bike) and I was lucky to catch before it broke off and was flinging in the oil/transmission area...) lemme see if I can find my picture and post maybe. the problem seems to me, that not having knowledge of what the spring does, and how important it is, people "stretch" the spring a little installing it, which can easily cause this problem. If this spring, that is shaped like a C with a pan handle perpendicular to it, that "handle" part of it, goes into a hole in the clutch case cover. It provides enough friction that as the lever's shaft is TURNED, the gear advances out of the resting place, and engages the idler gear. without the spring or tension it gives, the gear just stays down in it's little hole area and spins. if you ever forget to put that little handle into the hole it will not kick ever, if spring is barely strong enough, then I have seen it just fail to enguage once in a while. you can increase the grip of that spring, if it is NOT damaged in anyway (crack or broken) by carefully squeezing a little with pliers, just inside the very end of the "handle" area, while on the spring. Careful, you can break the spring I bet, if you get too "Godzilla" on that.
  2. Slip is probably more likely going to happen with a 125, when using the "proper technique" to make the bike have enough "umph" from a tiny sized engine... what you do as a "technique" on a 125 is using rev & clutch to do what my 300cc bike can do much easier without that technique, on dry ground let alone on slippery. It is technically the same as doing a "burnout" in a car, because the trials technique cannot make most cars do a wheelie, it makes tires spin. most little cars can do a burnout with 1st gear on flat surfaces optimum grip, when you rev the engine enough and dump the clutch... but a 400 hp Mustang/Camaro for example, can do the same without reving and some without dumping the clutch, and can do it in 4 gears at a whim... also because to "launch hard" like you do on trials bike, we use 4.56 or 5.12 rear gear which is worthless going down the highway. 125's have done same gear ups to keep the engine with enough "power" to make rear wheel turn etc. I think I had a 54 rear and 10 on my son's 125. that is like taking the 273 gears out of that car and putting 411's in there... now for each pulse of the engine we've reduced the torque necessary to make the wheel move, which makes the bike move. So, what do you do? Well... You have to then essentially learn how to "Modulate" throttle, clutch "engagement" AND your body to compensate for traction. What I have to do Ben, is tell you if it is not known by you, is read about how 10,000 HP dragsters and funny cars have to modulate through (saying it too basically in this memo) applying pressure to the clutch, which then gives more HP and Torque forces to the wheels, up to a limit defined as the traction the wheels can handle... Once you apply TOO MUCH POWER to the rear wheel, the only thing the wheel can do is "spin." in drag racing or trials, in a simple way, once you overpower the traction that the wheel and ground can take, the wheels slip, and you lose any acceleration. This is one reason, me not being a TOP level rider by ANY stretch, use an oil in my clutch cases that seems to help me have a lot more "area" of lever movement between fully engaged clutch (pulled in, nil connection to wheel) and fully disengaged (when you let out of lever and torq/power to wheels is at max). this way I can give as much gas as I hope it can handle, but also vary how much power you give, by being able to slip the clutch a little more or less depending on conditions. Hard to describe what I am saying but there is a sweet spot where I can give my bike's rear wheel 10-98% full power via the clutch movement, in 10 increments or steps. when I ran plain old ATF I can only describe that I had less range more like 60-100% in about 2 increments. But a really good master rider doesn't like the milliseconds longer it takes my clutch to completely give 100% power to rear wheels on a "blast or Splatter" that delay can mean they dont get up to speed and not make it. so there is a trade off. One more thing.. kind of related... it is like jumping a log that is wet, but pulling clutch as rear wheel gets just on top, kinda... As when you pull the clutch, the wheel stops the spinning so I have a firmer set of contact points on which to balance, that is the goal... versus leaving clutch out and having to try to balance on a rear wheel that is spinning and unpredictable to balance on. kind of the same in my head anyhow, because maybe you just pull it for 75% slip so you can get back on the bike and rev and go more, so it is about removing the "power" from the wheel, so it can get a traction and then increase power by slipping clutch a little and all that. hope you see what I mean with all that? maybe drag racing is bad analogy of clutch slipping... But, you being interested in F1, maybe you can read about "traction control"... not long ago they had "traction control" that would either apply brakes to dissable some of the "power" given to rear wheels, so the car wont just spin tires, now I think they use not only brakes, but engine timing and clutch slip to reduce power so wheel can take as much power as calculated, or when a wheel spins, it is detected and computers make all those adjustments for the driver... it caused some controversy, but in the end it works so much faster than a human can do it... anyhow, your Fingers and brain have to figure all that out and "be the traction control." Yes bigger engines give me a bigger RPM range to do same as you have to do on a 125 at higher RPM because of the total power output differences in the engines, it is all same, you'll seem to have a smaller window for error than I do with so many much more power/torqe per RPM than the 125.
  3. To BEN. SORRY, that I Jumped into you so publicly, from those that seem to know you better than I do or could, think you are innocent of Posting with "intent to TROLL" and see if you can offend us GASGAS supporters and fans, I probably should have known you were just frustrated, my bad. Believe me, I have been as frustrated as you, and with more than just one brand of motorcycles. I try to be careful, or I get ready to catch hell afterwards... Again, take care, you soon will be more of an expert on these bikes than most...
  4. Sure wish you would grow up a little, the way you post your topics is absolutely sh*ty and disrespectful. My point is you are Freaking almost a TROLL, I mean it. Unless I was trying to be a TROLL, I would hardly dare to get onto the "iPhone" forums and tell them what junk crapy things they are, and would probably be banned for daring to post topics you have... Yet you come here not only for help, but then say crap like that??? GO GET YOUR FRIGGN Sherco already.
  5. Sam, my bet the answer is YES, make sure you have the AIR out, because then you measure the milimeters of oil after you have pumped the air out, just before you are "done". FWIW, there is video or instructions somewhere, I cannot figure out where I saw it...
  6. would be very interesting to see the artifacts that you flushed out, hopefully whatever it was, didnt go through waterpump and tear that plastic impeller up? Be thorough, wash out hoses and pump while you were there, I hope.
  7. Would be nice to know what was the actual problem, I see you could fail to align the oil galley to holes, or was it bad MFG parts or bad something else... I mean obviously gasgas doesn't make the bearings, they buy them...
  8. sting32

    Lighter clutch

    THanks... made me feel like you misread my whole post, with pictures and everything. I'm sorry for even trying to help, it wasn't rocket surgery... FWIW, in the states, the 2 types of wrenches or sockets are side by side in every store I've been in except maybe Dollar General's Chinese crap in the "automotive fragrance" section... So, From the uber expensive "snap on" trucks, to Cheap ass Harbor Freight. you said nobody has them, so, then I was thinking at first that I mislead you about the "number of points" so I made damn sure I even put up pictures. Jesus Chrysler.
  9. sting32

    Lighter clutch

    WOw, they sell 12 sockets/wrenches everywhere. I had to re-edit this, Math and Eyeballs almost got confused... almost all "normal Nuts or bolts" have 6 sides to them, and same # of points. But wrenches can have 6 or 12 points, with a 12 point, you can risk slipping and rounding the points on the nut, but the 6 sided wrench doesnt work as well in a limited area where you cannot move the wrench every far to get it back on the nut... you have to be able to move 1/6ths of the rotation, to get another bite, where as a 12point you move 1/2 that or 1/12th the rotation to get another bite. FWIW, I like 6 points if working on a nut that is needing lots of torque or is rusty, less likely to slip or tear up a nut. But 12 point should fit the clutch bolts, because all they did was make the heads of those bolts less likely to be rounded off because it fits in your 12 point wrench more exactly. 12 point wrenchs or sockets, It is NOT a special socket, but ANY even your AUTOMOBILE parts shops should have the 2 types of sockets, and or boxed in wrenches, one with 6 sides and or points inside the boxed end, the other with 12 points (double the points) inside the boxed end. Sorry about my math in the earlier post, I shoud have said 6 or 12 point, not 8 or 12 point, It was earlier in the morning for me... here are the 2 examples of "MOST COMMONLY sold wrenches... 6 sides, like the normal nuts have) 6 points or 6 sides, looks just like it was the cookie cutter the nut you are working on See this picture I hope. 12 point, makes a wrench have to move not quite as far to get the next "bite" or grip on a nut/bolt...
  10. Actually if this is the bike pictured, you should just need a normal socket that is 12 point instead of the 8 point (boxed end wrenches come both ways, depending on what you buy...) Here's example of a 12 point socket, wrenches come the same way 12 or 8 point on the "boxed end"
  11. yeah, please do and since you already made a video, make one doing it how I described, LOL!! when you kill the bike in a section, while balanced you can start the bike, BUT you know you don't take the time to do what I told you to do when normally starting, you will get the lever out in a panic and kick in a adrenalin rush, without reguard to the parts inside... But, if you practice normal starting like I describe, this will mean the "once in a while, dead bike save" stresses will only happen once in a while. doing it like your video, it was "every time I kick it" in my humble opinion. I am not bashing, but I want you to think and understand one thing. In your video, you kicked the bike 10 or more times, only 2 times in that video did I ever see you put anywhere near enough "effort" to start it, and I'm saying barely... it was kick 6 &8 by my count. The rest were "worthless" and actually less than worthless kicks So, You have to know that everything, even steel parts have a "life cycle" of x number of uses, light-bulbs say xx number of hours then the filament burns out, however light-bulbs that stay turned on that whole life make it to the xx hours, those that get turned on/off a crap load of times (like the ones in your home) live about 1/3rd of that life expectancy. Wasting the # of times the kickers live with less than adequate motion, just wasted some life... IMHO. if you aren't going to get the RPM up, then sit down and rest, lol. Kicking the bike poorly, wastes the life cycles. when you half aZZ kick, you might as well just sat down and watched TV, there is no way the poor old bike had a chance to start. it is about the SPEED of your kicker, not the weigh of your body pushing on the kicker, I hope you see what I mean.
  12. Older bikes this wasn't as known, the cartidges have changed so newer than 08, you (should probably always) pump cartridges a few times while in fork with some oil in... since we're going to measure the fluid to a set level, the set level assumes that the "dampening" parts have no air in them, when you clean them you should have probably pumped all the cruddy oil out the system. on my 2010, it took 5 or 10 pumps to feel I got the air out, then you do what they say to do. now on that 04, forks were made by different than now company, or least design was different, seems there is a "add so many cc's" to the tube and your are done, least that is how I always did it when I had my 04-06 pros...
  13. Just watched your clip, haven't read what people remarked, but you are ABSOLUTELY doing it wrong, this isn't your (fathers) old dirtbike. Best practice for starting a gasgas (we're talking about an 02 or newer PRO engine/model as OP pictured in his video), so save undue wear and tear of lightweight starting parts that will break when you do a TDC attempt, eventually! Snell's video is from the OLD pre 2004 TXT & dirbike engines. 1. Rock a cold bike back and forth in 2nd or 3rd gear with choke on, about 6 times in NICE summer weather, more if colder. when you finish, make sure the last thing you did was rock backwards. This leaves the piston at the past dead center, and now has about 3/4ths of a revolution before TDC (hard compression). 2. Pull kicker out, do NOT "do that find TDC, bulloney" just kick! you will find you get to get the parts rotating with a little momentum, and the LEAST resistance at first, where your leg is feeling akward to "rotate" the kicker with LOTS of speed, NOT FORCE IT!!!! NOTES: plus the rocking the bike back an forth FROM compression to compression helps charge combustion chamber with FUEL. Gasgas is notorious for barely enough "choke/enrichment" with choke on. PS if you have the Delorto Carb, if you twist throttle while kicking the bike, with choke on, you pretty much "negate" or "cause ineffective" the choke setting. Try it. I kick my bike 1 time, every time when unloading from truck, weather it is 80 degrees F at home, or 40F (wintertime) using the above method. WHILE YOU ARE AT IT... Hot starts work best this way too, I rock the bike back, since I left it in gear you know with clutch drag lol... Then I just pull clutch and kick. if you don't eventually you'll BEND the kick lever, or worse, also some point the kicker gear and idler gear will break or chunk out. Good luck. I should make a video and post it up here in the future, because Snell's video is on the NON PRO, which is a totally different engine and all, more like any common dirt bike!
  14. I had a master rider pipe up in a conversation, I laughed so hard, I have to share it here... He asked, "so, do you relocate all the door knobs in your house too?" that is my sentiments. raise the bars, changes how your weight is on the bike, can cause you weird handling. if you were 6ft 4 and above, I might understand, but under that, stock is probably best.
  15. Hensley, they didn't do the bike so you could tag it here in USA did they? when I last saw dale (kc rounds last year) he didn't think you would be able to tag it. did they finally do it so you can tag it?
  16. JSE, and to Sawtooth (op)... was this covered in one of the videos (cant watch vids from here) on Youtube, Op, search for user gasgasinfo on youtube, gasgas usa parts dealer and importer created DVD's for us 'mericans, which is our owners' manual and tech source, recently he's put most the the chapters (if not all) up on Youtube, which shows you MANY things you might ever need to do maintenance wise, on the gasgas trials...
  17. Do NOT disreguard that seal behind the flywheel. you souldnt have any oil in there for any reason, Although I have squirted WD-40 in there when I got submerged and bike died, helped dry that area out. usually WD40 dries in HEAT though.. If it is weeping you need to get that seal and last I knew this means splitting cases and pulling crank out to replace the seal??? This could cause lean, which can eventually hurt the piston let alone the cylinder, plus hard start. Funny you had such high compression if the rings were so bad????
  18. PS, UhOh7 You honestly should buy the water temp sensor and fix that, this way you wont have those "UhOh" moments. Scarring and nipping a piston is serious $$... Then a FWIW: Gasgas for a long time was having the little shafts "hardened" or something by someone, that the process was NOT right, they were not chromed or hardened right, and grooves wore into the little shaft pretty in pretty short time. Not long ago, I have been TOLD, that they finally fixed this issue, and if you got relatively new repair kit (like $90 USD) that comes with seal shaft & impeller, et al.... that shaft should last longer. But I haven't had to change one in quite a while. oldest bike I currently have is a 2010.
  19. Dear Deerhurts... Where did you read ANYWHERE, if you would please, (from your OP) "GM Spec" transmission fluid? Everyone for the last 3 5 years been saying get that AutoTRAC 2 **** out of your (GASGAS) bikes!!! GASGAS UK has warning posted about it. GASGAS clutches drag slightly, ALWAYS since the 2002 PRO engine. it is minimal, hard to find neutral at dead stop, but shouldnt kill the engine... It might creep slightly but it is enough, that you adjust your "IDLE" with the BIKE IN GEAR, HOLDING IN THE CLUTCH, ASSUMING YOU HAVE EVERYTHING IN SPEC, best you can... if this is NOT how yours is working, you have a problem you have not fixed.
  20. LOL it is called "trolling" Stupid Raga 300 of mine is underpowered as well, I mean, when the sonafabeech was up around what was it lineaway, 8-9000 feet? I swear Sipapu NM's ski resort stole half my horsepower... (LOL) If a gasgas 300 isn't snappy enough, I have no clue except to tell him to maybe refit a WRF-450 into the frame, or maybe a 500cc 2stroke engine? Whatcha think? Lineaway?
  21. If you are ANAL, and use high pressure washers, you have to learn where NOT to point the sprayer, that is for sure, I would list 3 that I never do!@ Never aim full pressure at radiators, bends fins closed easily Never aim at rear linkage or wheel bearingings directly, unless you are about to disassemble and regrease said items, water in any of those will rust the bearings. Lastly, careful around carbs and airbox. now would be a good time to take off the seat/airbox and familiarize yourself with it, the opening of the airbox is where the tank meets seat, so spraying carb cleaner could be sucked into the "normal intake loop" increasing the idle... there is a "drain flap" on the bottom of airbox to let water and vibrate some dirt out.. this sometimes deforms with dirt caught, to where it stays open and again if you get carb cleaner near it, it can cause reves to change. Milky stuff sounds like water to me. adjust the "revs" with the bike in gear, holding clutch. clutches drag on GG, so getting idle up while in gear will mean more idle speed when out of gear, which is NORMAL in today's riding, since you should have a finger on clutch and slip the clutch more to go slow if you need to. we no longer ride with the clutch 'let go' anymore, just FYI. Floats should be level (the little bar that rests on the floats little tabs) when carb is off, and upside down on bench, you may also want to check that the float has NOT got gas seeping into the little plastic floats, by shaking them as soon as you can, after taking carb apart the gas will evaporate and you will miss it. check them like you check to see if your beer is empty, well, least I do before I bring a can to my lips, lol...
  22. Laser, I believe the "specs" for the Sach's, say they have compression dampening adjusting only. You had to get the fancier shocks to have more adjustments. I had a guy in Kansas rebuild my sachs on a bike I no longer have, he changed the dampening all around. Compression dampening I am pretty sure, so you could stop it from bottoming out, but again I am NOT a pro.
  23. those "caps" arent just caps. if you haven't found that out yet. the front forks are kind of a "cartridge" system. there is an Allen bolt on the bottom of the "tanks" by the axels, the top caps will come loose, but the whole thin (spring and all) comes out in one piece. Find video version of the owners/mantenance manuals, by going to YOUTUBE.com, searching for the user called Gasgas.info this is the parts importer for USA, he and the BIKE IMPORTER for USA, made DVD's since gasgas didnt print manuals until what, 2008? or least maybe not english versions. Anyway Snell shows you how to take the forks apart, you will have to hunt a little for the older bike versions of vids maybe? SPrings on those bike can "sack" out or break, not bad getting new ones. there are other ways of adding preload to the springs, by modding the existing plastic spacer. the way to disassemble the "cartridge" is a nut/bolt usually behind the little plastic spacer. Spacers can be made from PVC tubing/pipe. problem is I cannot recall what the "maximum length" the PVC can be, before you cause springs to bind up (compress until spring is totally collapsed, hitting bottom, aka becoming rigid, which is never good.
  24. Hopefully someone checked for loose bolts all over the bike!!!? I have been scared "..less" to then discover tank bolt was not tight. fenders, tripple clamps, even clip holder on the handlebars can "do the harmonic/demonic" rattle. makes sure everything is tight. ALso BEN, if you post new video, hold the clutch in, on my PC that is all I could hear, gg clutch rattle.
  25. The RPM at idle screws always do the same thing... BUT! Delorto is opposite & different than the Kehins on idle mixture screws, AND function they do, and starting point. Seems to me 3 turns or 3 & 1/2 turns out on Delorto? Least it was on my last 300. 1.5 turns is starting point for Kehins. Course I'll post it backwards, due to brain fade... Ok, on Keihin it is an AIR management screw. But on Dellorto I think it is a FUEL management screw. So for tuning, what this means is "closing" or tightening (righty tighty) the screw affects/cuts down on the aforementioned AIR or FUEL allowed at idle. So if bike is lean (bog on quick blip) you close a Kehin, or open a Delorto. usually. All the above is "IF" my memory is correct.
 
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