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sting32

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Everything posted by sting32
 
 
  1. Sounds a lot like me! LOL. Spares, that is the problem, what is a half bent 02 gasgas clutch lever worth? I keep stuff, you never know, and it takes years to accumulate everything for new brands, bent broken or new, they are all spares, most of them you paid full price for to have in your possession, even though they are bent and what have ya... hard to have that handy for another brand, unless you are rich/lottery winner? or at least single, so you don't have to spend the requisite 1.5 x the total you just spent on yourself, right? lol. what I hated most was the "cool" gear that is now "out of style?" not that I care much, I rode with jeans and tshirts for a long time. But, had hoped the "raga" at least would be gold colored, for more than just one year! as bought the GOLD shirt and pants, what was that about $250.oo USD, wasted? lol. I mean it would be like Ossa changing colors, all that green gear everyone has is toast, lol least the old black/red gear I had from about 2007-08 still fit. 08 Raga paint was still the prettiest they ever have done, IMHO. hehehee.
  2. Guys, Hard words dont bother me, I completely understand that I probably instigated it, because unlike face to face, you have nothing but words to take feedback, to know I was giving you "hell" in many ways, some of it tongue in cheek. I know better, I been where you are. and yeah, I can be upset just like you over it. I like gasgas, sure, kind of like the ossa too. Many of my friends were changing the master cylinders for front brakes for many years, I never have. But to each their own I always say, far as some things go. Anyhow, I had that exact problem, on exact same bike (mines a 300) and it cost dad a decent finishes for a 2 day trials event... He was upset like you at first, then we "fanboy rationalized" oh well they'll fix it... Him, not knowing it was the brake, he thought it was just him, I jumped on and instantly knew we had a problem after washing it to dry the brakes... The bike was his and 2 weeks old or so. But when they replaced the part, it has had pretty good amount of riding done for the last year, then I got it in August, no problems knock on wood? really I'm knocking on wood! Sunday is club event and next weekend a 300+ mile trek to a 2 day event. My desk is at least particle board, I pray that that will count. LOL I understand the frustration, but I live in the Sticks here in usa, sparse population, all that, I guess we've gotten used to no cell phones while "ya'll had them" in the bigger population areas, and availabiltiy of sources and mechanics and all that, so easier for me to put worry on another type of solution than another you might feel like. I didnt mean to belittle your strife, and I am thick skinned, most of the time, My Yoda in me says, if offended you are, sorry I am.
  3. Your ****ting us right? they ship you the part to fix free, you have the "dealer" fix it, he's reimbursed... If your dealer is screwing you over by not doing what Stu is doing, then what? Personally, having the only bike I own "recalled" and lost use of, is bigger problem than me taking a file to a part, which I haven't had to do (YET). I would assume the "kits" are being used up if the cloned brake parts company, has had to redo its MFG process, hasn't had time for making all the spare parts, or gasgas having to pay for their SCREWUPS, is short on money? BTW, being all "I shouldnt have to do squat" about it, havent had the new TV fritz out? car, or anything? Plus, You are NOT talking about suppliers for BMW Cars for christs sake, what does gasgas sell worldwide, 2000 bikes a year? ford & bmw has to sell hundreds of thousands, so with that volumn, the supplier have to have big facilities and staff/workers to build the parts they supply. Ford takes 13 years to make changes, what did it take gasgas to adapt new parts and make one heck of a bike to beat? Some of you are narrow minded about things, that arent really mass produced, the iPhone was developed for years and antiquated before any one bought it, all specs wise. Kind of like the Montesa... But they did have good quality control, oh wait, the Iphone4 had bigger issues, I forgot... Montesa costs what now?
  4. We had that problem on the 12, they shipped us a new master, I recall they said the 2nd process of deburing/cleaning of the piston area was probably gone wrong for one "lot" range from the brake company's MFG process? But, I have had no problems since (dad owned this bike, rides a good amount, and now it is my bike). what I understand is, the piston has rubber orings, and another piece, so if they didn't take just a little edge off the sharp insides of the cylinder's piston area (around the fluid ports) it will rub a hole in the rubber pieces that push fluid. same type of thing happened to me on another 2stroke bike that was bored, the shop didnt take that sharp edge off where the ports meet cylinder, the ring actually caught and broke in that area. you can fix it yourself, new orings, if you take a tiny peice of sandpaper wrapped around a punch and take the sharp edges off the ports where the piston of the master cylinder rubs... last I knew anyhow. it has been more than 12 months since I got my rear master cylinder, we ride all the time (several days a week plus many weekends plus competitions)... That is NOT gasgas's fault BTW, but they have been helping everyone out that I know of, if you follow the rules for "warranty" that is. now I will knock on wood, and hope? SO, I hope I dont have this issue to look forward too? but I think mine is OK... Some were also saying (might been in earlier production number bikes???) that the hoses were too short and causing them to leak when better riders that used a lot more of the suspension than maybe I do in our class/difficulty do? FWIW our 2013 Raga hasn't had this problem which the 12 did by now (had it happen after 3rd oil change or less than 2 weeks of ownership) we get the raga usually in or around mid or late August. Not sure if was 1st or 2nd shipment either. I would say next one, take it apart, see if it is just rubber being chewed through. I am not "in the know" about all problems, but if it is just failing rubber parts, not something else, you might be able to "prevent" it on the next one they ship, if you are careful (with tips from someone better than what I posted above?)
  5. Instructions about the cover is you do NOT tighten the cover too tight. But for the life of me, I think the flywheel must be a problem, maybe it didnt get seated on the crank right, even though nut holding it is tight and all that, otherwise you are going to have to post/upload a picture, so we see what is rubbing. if you overtightened the case, it will gap around the sealing area most likely. or you have had a spill, like others have said dented the case slightly. nice thing is you could measure brothers bike now, see if we're right about the flywheel on correctly and all that.
  6. He's a better rider than that video showed him to be, I suspect that he was trying to do something, like throw himself farther down the hill, or something. And, he's like 6ft 2 or more tall too, something silly went wrong. I do recall watching the "No Fear" in him as he rocketed up a 50ft cliff behind our camper, and cleared the top by at least 10+ ft, lol.
  7. Did you hit a rock (or any object) with the shifter? there is a "breakable by design" fuse on the shaft of 06 and up I believe, cheap fix supposed to save breaking and bending of the "dogs" that move the drum, which aligns the forks in the transmission. there is also an adjustment TJP mentioned, I think there might be video instructions on Youtube (gasgasinfo is the username, Jim Snell, parts importer USA posted many tips and tricks in videos the videos ship with purchase of new bikes in usa), not absolutely sure how hard it will be to find though, it is about the return to center spring for the shifting shaft. that can make it hard to find gears in one direction or the other, when if the adjustment is slightly off.
  8. I cant agree more with you Don, in fact I hate Chevy, yet I should hate all brands... Here's my story on that... In 1999 Chevy built the smaller blazer, I bought it used in 2002. when I bought it it has 35000 miles on it. at 56000 check engine light comes on, life is grief since. I took it to shop, they said "known bad part, replaced mid production of 2000, and if it had failed under warranty it fix free" But now it was "my problem" and the fix was set at just under $2700 (non dealer, better shopand better prices). Dealer was over 5000 (new tranny was cheapest of the options they gave me). Now importer in USA has been damn good to me, when something happens on new bikes we buy, but not any better or worse for old bikes I buy, if you know what I mean. I'm also not saying we dont have a problem, I am saying if you give the "bike" a snowballs chance in hell, type of treatment (wrapping the snowball in a towl for instance might last longer in hell) I seem to get better results. so I do the following, so I kick the bike less than probably anyone on the internet, that owns a gasgas. Here's (yet again) how I start my bike every day, cold: turn on gas, lift the choke, place the bike in 2nd gear, rock back and forth so that the piston is MOVING up and down to compression (usually hear a chug chug), I do this at least 5 times, end with my last movement rocking backwards on the bike, the piston is now past TDC below compression... I flick the lever out, mount the bike with my crotch rigtt above the gascap, with a fluid motion, using ONLY the strenght in my leg (not my weight, not like you kick a 1000 CC harley) I push the lever quickly to the foot peg. My bikes start 1st kick every time, or something was not done correctly, or something is wrong (like the time I forgot to put lanyard magnet back on the kill button thingy). My whole first loop, I like to let my bike run, keeps it warmed up so the clutch feels the same, less likely to leave run when it is hot out. saves me 1 kick per section, some of you it would save 5 kicks per section per loop, just sayin. I grew up with my dad who was "wear conscious" of everything. the Joke always was, I jumped into the 1966 Ford f250 that he had all of my pre-teenager years and more, and the door would only go half shut, if he or I didn't crack the window or wing windows... He'd jokingly verbally attest, "jeeez, I have 100 Thousand miles on the pickup, and now 200 thousand miles worth of wear on the doors!" I feel the same about kicking just to be kicking, especially on the gasgas. I don't know why Ossa (designed by same guy/firm) is or is NOT having same problems? or why GG has shyed away from revamping, it is probably the costs of retooling what, 30 parts? so I guess if they do finally fix it, prices jump up yet again? Not everyone is breaking the cases, I bet you my dad has more hours on his 13 Raga (bought last month) than some guys on the forums, because we actually ride a lot and practice even more. he's not ever broken a case (knock on wood) since we chose gasgas, in 2002... I dunno, is it how we kick or bad design? probably both?
  9. I cannot tell Neutron, which is worse, stabbing or "carefully" (are you kidding carefully?) what I had happen to me long ago, was attempted to make a kick after pushing on the kicker (trying to get piston right at compression) then kick, was the dog ear gear actually broke. IMHO because it didn't mesh, and full weight of 200+ lbs plus muscle trying to turn the bike over... So now I actually use ONLY my leg, and do it in a swift motion from relaxed un-engaged kicker down to peg. what works best of all is backing up the bike in gear so piston is just passed compression, then doing my kick, there is less "pressure" on starting pawl gear meshing with the idler, and I get a "run" at the compression part of crank rotation. I should take my bike apart, it is on its second year, see what it looks like. it is the 300 std compression head. I almost cannot kick the bike if the starter is at the top and the piston is right up on compression... what I seen happen to a friend on the older 06 Raga with Mag cases, he tried to TDC kick, with his WEIGHT and leverage right DOWN on lever instead of "back and down" on the lever, broke 2 cases on one weekend. sure he no longer has that bike, but I showed him how I do it, he hasn't broken one since that I know of since... case was expensive, idler and "elephant ear" shaped kicker gear isn't quite as expensive... I think.
  10. I keep reading all this "crap" about how the gasgas seems so "fragile" to everyone, but for chrysler's sake, other than a dumb part here and there, plastic Exhaust, Wisky Tango Foxtrot what were they thinking? But, just exactly like any other brand, seriously same crap different bikes? some of you all run the bike through a meat grinder and expect it to unfold like the car in the movie " " I have had to fix kicker gear & idler then I learned how to kick the damn things. in my long gone older bikes, almost all were a 300 pro, but never touched the ones in the 10, 11 or newer models. Parts are out there that replace original parts of the older models, usually lots better parts. I have had 2 04 300's 125's and 06 pro's and an 08 raga, 10, 11, 12 & now the 13 raga 300. just about all I ever had fail me without it being because of a bad crash/ accident, was the kicker gear, or waterpump shaft seal. the 08 ruined the spit bearing once, we concluded probably because of water in oil due to the still bad waterpump shaft/seal issues, I didnt know I needed a shaft with the seal replacements at first. When dad got my '10 Raga, and since then, dad rode these bikes pretty much a good bit of time, for 2 years in Sr Amature, then I would get them and ride Sr Expert class. He rides many days a week practicing an maybe as much as an hour or so before he'd go home for the day from the farm. Yeah, I have seen silly crap happen, when the 08 was new, a cir-clip popped off the kicker shaft, went through the outside gearbox/clutch area gears, ruined the clutch basket, so that was warranty and nothing like it since. I fought this same stuff on all earlier model trials bikes (pre 85's) with Montesa, yamaha's that broke kickers off, shafts off. And all I can also mention is: abuse breaks things, accidents can too. the most bullet proof bike I ever had was 79 sherpa-t, yet by 84 it was a bloated TANK compared to the Fantics and everything else being offered. I watched people break those damn Bultaco's too. I actually wore mine out, worst problem I had was when crankcase seal blew, the engine got rebuilt with piston and stuff, hell someone bought it, and still rides the dang thing. I fail to believe that Sherco doesn't fail under as tough circumstances of "damages" by most of you primates that ride them. I know last year's Sooner cup event, the sherco ridden by the top USA rider was stuck with a broken transmission. I think too many of you all, "get off" yet dont think about how we with the "Gasgas" line of bikes, we all seem to have a great grapevine, or "tell everyone" so fellow "gassers" wont be in the dark when they have any issues. Can't say it does happen with Beta, Sherco and others as much, not sure if it is the owner mentality or just luck of the draw, or the scarcity of the bikes in numbers. Hell just a week ago I learned that the 1st thing a dealer buddy of mine says to do on the beta is replace the kills switches, as they are junk. this after towing a "dead engine" 2010 or 2011 bike, 3 miles out of the back of a quarry, in a heavy rainfall trials saturday event. Again if I was light headed as some that complain, or suggest all the time what crappy fragile gasgas seems to be, they'd hate the Beta. I dont, I cant kick with my left leg, so they don't seem to have any "allure" for me, but others I will give a shot when offered. Gasgas fits me, most I have broken since I got the 2010 is the expendable crap, like the foot brake levers (hate the new design actually bought a billet made one, that is straight and stays tucked in more than new design, take it bike to bike so far. I just don't know. Some of you can probably break an anvil with a rubber mallet, given time. All the above is written without malice, just in fun. sorry if you are offended in any way, lol.
  11. you have a "newer" bike and then jump on older bikes, if I read your subject right. Well, now you see the differences. Now you have to learn the techniques, that we used on the older bikes. TIP: the trick is, that the technique is really just exaggerated versions of what you do to turn a modern bike. you have to move your body around on the bike. if you experiment or watch videos of "training" on how to turn, then take a video of yourself, you will see that what you think you do, is NOTHING close to what they are showing you. When showing a person we exaggerate slightly, and expect you to match that exaggeration exactly. Why? because we know in "practice" you will get tired, and slowly and (for lack of better term) get lazy, when half the effort "works" right now. if you exaggerate while practicing a lot, you will find it will be more "natural" to get your body "close to the show you how" looks, which is win win. what is neat is you learn this stuff, then use it on even the "newer" bike, when the traction is minimal (wet slippery).
  12. look at the "exploded views" in the 'parts manuals' via gasgas spain website for your bike. it should show you all the parts and where they go.
  13. Lee without pictures, and history of the bike (what all you have played with, or previous owner for that matter...) I would keep optimistically like to say you got bad ground somewhere. But it could be more than that. Now there are "anecdotal" stories everywhere, but here's a couple I cant say are "normal" but possible? I had an 07 250 in my shop that failed to start on my 2nd attempt after buying it, which happened (as the kid I had bought it, I had went and got it for, was on his way to come see it at my place). I was nuts, disconnected the kill switch (cut wires off' I needed to put real kill switch on anyhow, take off the light switch crap, still nothing. looked for ground wire problem, everything seemed good. last thing I did was, I took flywheel off, to see if there was moisture and corrosion anywhere in there. there was NONE. But dad reached down and grabbed the stator not really assuming anything, but he noticed instantly that it was LOOSE. I tightened them 3 screws up, with loc-tite blue, and haven't had any issue since. I have heard/read on forums that the Voltage regulator can go bad, I forget what years that is prominent, if that happens you might not get electricity to the electronic ignition box. I have had a spark plug that would fire outside the cylinder, but not when installed in the past. I've also in a 2007 200cc, had a spark plug that would ONLY RUN up to about 2000 RPMs, sputter badly (almost tossed me over the bars). I was sure it was carb, but changed plug after dicking with carb 5 times, then it ran fine. What you got to do is figure out a way (friends or dealer/mechanic) to eliminate the "possible" failures, with known good.
  14. make sure both sides pistons are moving, I had one stick, hardly any brake, then it made the rotor work screws out
  15. BEN, the newer shafts that come in the kits, are supposed to be harder, I thought I was told!??? So just do the whole kit, I haven't had to change seal and shaft for at least a couple years now... But the seal wont seal if there is a groove in the shaft, dont ask me how I know! I know because I tried and then the frequent water in the oil, ruined that infamous split bearing on output shaft... that can ruin your weekend in a hurry...
  16. foamy oil with water, takes days to "un foam" my bike using Yamaha's Yamalube foams ever so slightly, when you shut off the bike it instantly foam goes away. Red oil turns PINK, that is water probably. Blue turns baby blue, my clear ish brown stays brown with layer of bubbles on top, no water. hope that helps. if you had a leak, you might need to change, quick ride, flush while warm. then take for long ride? help heat the condensation out of the transmission. if the oil goes back to normal quickly you are probably OK? if not you might still have a leak. you will have to talk to those like JSE that know more about the old engines, the newer pro engines from 2002 up to now I have knowledge and read a lot, and have had many bikes I work on or own, that we had the "pump shafts" that wore out. I was never informed or did I worry or hear it was any problem, with the old engines... but then again I only had the old engine in 2 bikes, way back in 2000 or so, for a year or so. but I have had several bikes of the new engine with several of the following years, 04, 06, then the Raga 08, 10,11,12 & now the 13. raga/factory. I haven't had to change waterpump parts since the 2010 raga we bought. so they seemed to have fixed the issue, or I didn't have enough hours on it when I sold it. FYI what I know... the 04-06's and the 08 I had to change pump "kits" about once a year, the shafts were soft and the seal would eat a groove in shaft that drives the pump impeller. that is now hardened better and should be fixed... I hope. I know I changed oil when this happens ASAP, do it twice so it gets the water out. then since it happens to me in hot summer, usually good hard ride after 2 changes (used the cheapest ATF to flush with) and then fill with good stuff, it was cleared up.
  17. I am contemplating on having a welder add to the "bumps" to which I could then file on, make sharper, problem is I still have scars where kicker dug into calf, without being sharp, so swapping with starter from another year might be the right way to go. Funny TrialsUK shows red and black, sells black and "silver" go figure. I wanted the red one.
  18. FYI, the 2013 Raga has the full sized kicker on it (least the one we got). my 2012 has the one with the last 1/2 inch cut off the end, and i fight the ability to kick it as well, when wet out.
  19. Thanks for the info fellas. My only regret about Garne or how you spell it, I hate the gummy bear soles, my footpegs chew into them, and actually kept me from getting feet off the pegs once in a real need situation. The soles were put on my worn out Hebo boots since I had chewed clear through the hebo soles. seemed like good idea at time, lol. I guess I will be trying a new brand very soon.
  20. No your good, hell I post a lot, forget where all I post, that "tip" should be in my sig... lol. I agree about the "saving it in section" and I am hoping I am saving up any abuse I could have been giving the kicker, so I can abuse it a couple times if I need to, know what I mean?
  21. replace your kill switch, with a version that has 2 wires! the 2nd wire goes to ground/earth on the frame near where you connected the other wire. Nothing like getting shocked when kill switch is NOT making good contact with handlebars, a 2 wire version stops that shocking development, least it has for me for several years. Beta's has a junk switch on the 2011's that would kill the engine when it got wet, my family helped haul a dead beta from clear on the back of the property in a rain storm, dealer from texas said change the kill switch... so get a GOOD kill switch. I like the square ones I get from yamaha parts dealer myself, but now I use a lanyard. Lanyard is even more sealed and all you have to do is remember; where the hell did I put the lanyard, and to put it onto the dang switch BEFORE YOU KICK IT, lol. Don't ask me how I know... it was funny, a person tried to start my bike, I was walking section, had lanyard on my wrist, they pushed the bike to where I was and said "cant get yours to start! I got the other 3 bikes moved over here though..." I held up my lanyard and we laughed.
  22. Sawtooth, One thing I know, starting the big bore bikes at or near TDC, like some do, seems to ME, is bad practice, if you jump up and then down on the starter, cracks cases? it really needs to be "back and down" on the starter. I also post this everywhere, but every time I start my '12 raga 300 I like to rock the bike to where the piston has passed TDC (which is technically rolling engine backwards approaching TDC in reverse) then kick the bike in a fluid motion, less stress on all the starting parts, and getting the piston to start moving from dead stop when it is up against compression. of course it is a learned thing.
  23. Just an "alert" about moving the kickstart forward! take a good look at the bikes on some gasgas website, try to match where they are from factory on your bike. Reason? because the bikes USE the FOOTPEG, as the "rotation stop" for the kickstarter. I haven't had any issues with my bikes since 08 model, with kicker, but I never had to move forward on the start shaft either, if you rotate too far (as warned by GASGASINFO's youtube videos) I "understand" you can cause other problems? just saying, might be worth printing pictures, and comparing where the kicker is on your bikes? but then again you might be just fine!?!?!???
  24. Not Arguing, I wonder if that is the year, not the range of years? Anyway, that is news to me, but I only had the 1999 321, while dad had a 2000 321, for couple years, and it was a well used bike when I bought it. But I could have bought the bike after he replaced the pump parts, however unlikely that was I think he would have said so when I bought it. The Pro engine, just FYI the shafts were supposed to be hardened and chromed, (I think?) but the hardening was sub par. I think by 2009 they finally got them done right? the seal would actually chew a groove in the shaft, about 7 months to a year, and the kit isn't cheap anymore, like near $100 USD.
  25. idler gears get rough. if a "part" like a tooth gets stuck to clutch basket teeth, then it can bend the clutchbasket slightly, so check all gears from crank to idler for big nick or gouges. the PRO bikes, early on have too much leverage on the case, I know one guy bought 2 cases on a bike, they both broke. I have had 6 bikes from the 04's up to- 2013 Raga. Never broke the case. My sense/opinion is kicking it the incorrect way? also was that the "non aluminium case" it is weaker, so alum case will be better and weldable if it comes to that. since the 08-to my 12, they all have that non aluminium case (cant think of the word/type). Lastly I have NOT tried to move my shaft like you have, there is a BEARING that the shaft goes into, mine (changed the kicker gear and idler a few different bikes) seemed to be somewhat tight, when in place like is supposed to be, make sure you have a "shim" and all shims, for that matter in place, while looking at parts breakdowns from gasgas?
 
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