sting32

unhook the kill switch, check for spark. kill switches can do weird things. Notice I say check for spark, you really need to have a way to kill the engine if you start it, puts you and others in danger without one, you know. just sayin.

Thanks for straightening that out, Since I dont have any kids, that young to worry about... I didn't worry about it when I did, he had to grunt just like I did on a rebuilt TY80... BUT, the best small wheel bike I knew of (being older and cheaper than say the nice Beta that you could setup with Big or small wheels) was the 2000 or so, sherco 50 dad sold a year or was it two years ago. It pulled my fat butt around and would wheelie, I was still over 230 at minimum by then, even with the no-clutch setup, I was impressed as hell. IT had Bicycle rims and trials bicycle tires on it, helluva lot better than the chinese tires I had on MY stepson's Ty80, wish we'd had it when My son was that young, but it was NEW probably when that was happening. Some really Lucky kid in Douglass (avta club) got it now. so that is all I know.

Did I not read that others have put the 80 piston and cylinder on the 50 before? not sure what else is involved, and not sure how cost conscious that would be to do either, with new parts.

the old engines have a different water pump, and all that, so it shouldn't have the shaft/seal problem that the early pro engines had with the UNHARDENED pump shaft. I almost never heard of the water pump problem on the old engines, but by now, they are getting old, so there has to be a rebuild kit probably easy enough to get through gasgas parts person...?

Shocks (or forks) are shipped on the bike in a crate are usually to the "middle" of adjustments. Reiger shock has like 30 clicks on compression for example, the shock on bike, without any dealer interventions (meaning I unboxed the bike) was at 15, same for all adjustments. Seems this was true with ohlins and Sachs as well from memory. now sometimes I would think that a competent dealer, might change those for the 1st buyer, helping by "experience" adjusting those settings, if they know the buyer and how they ride, but they might not? I guess it depends on dealer and buyer preferences. My dealer used to unbox all of our bikes, assemble and grease, adjust things, and "deliver" it ready for me to ride well. your mileage may vary on that. last 2 bikes I didn't have the time to wait, so we unboxed and applied the settings my dealer recommended to me, on shocks and forks. PRetty happy, with the outcome, and got to see how much a difference the settings make from "factory shipped" and my setting I ride with actually are, it was HUGE to me and I'm only a fairly decent rider!

I like everything you said. except lay bike on its side in there somewhere, LOL. if you get the right size hose, I just push it on over the nipples, no clamps needed with reasonable tight fit hose. FYI I use the same thing, used for front rear brakes and clutch, nipples can a little, vary in size. If you have to push so hard on the syringe, that the hose blows off, then something is not right, IMHO usually means your levers aren't letting the plungers in the master cylinder get back to fully "at rest", remember levers need like .5 mm of slack at least... or dirt at the of the plunger opening, that is covered by that little rubber cone shaped boot, behind the circlip that holds the "piston" in. !11 is go ride, 10 would be make sure you clean up anywhere the brake fluid dribbled on, in my expereince if left to "dry" eats paint. or used to. 3 4 & 5 are similiar enough as far as I know, I think it was mineral oil that used to eat the seals on tophat, that you "shouldn't" be able to get anymore? AKA updated. I do my darnedest to not mix, but even in a pinch (aka temporary) I have had to use 5 in a normally full of 3 or 4, now everything on my bike is 5. less crap to have in your toolkit.

that is what I use, mine actually is one from some brake parts company, cant see the brand anymore... that I have had forever, it is a big one, pushed same hose we use for fuel line onto the tip, tied with ziptie. then push onto nipple, once you open the nipple IT SHOULD press in fairly easy, as in wont pop hose off, if you are popping hose off, your lever is adjusted wrong, probably. USE CLEAR LINE (see through, I mean) so you can make sure you dont push bubbles into the lines.

hope you thought about the gasket for the cover? the bike need to be laid on its side, when you take off and or replace the clutch side cover. I cant see how the fluid would NOT come out, you when you pull that top-hat off. at least some. Easiest way to refil, if you have help is the push fluid into nipple on clutch slave, until it fill tank on bars, problem is small little hole in tank and will cover the ceiling in fluid when you push into empty tank, so I lay a clean tank cover over the tank, maybe put tiny amount into empty tank before you start pushing up from slave, ya know. gets 99.998 of the air out that way. Be sure to watch for falling parts, you know bearing and washer/race on clutch, thin shim on start shaft. they have a tendency, to hang onto the cover just for mere seconds due to oil film, then fall when you are NOT looking!

I defer to JSE on that, since you are talking about inside the clutch's hydraulics, I would just dip in the brake fluid, roll onto where they go. should be lube enough?

Sad to hear you having so much issues, everyone learns the hard way to start with simple then head to complex when fixing a problem. Well, like you say, you have oil dripping from master cylinder, or it is leaking into transmission. Now I have had my master cylinder leak a tiny bit in a year, out the cap, area IMHO. and due to extreme heat in summer maybe? so mid summer it seems like, I have had to fill my master cylinder, you should fluids once a year anyhow! if not twice like my friends do. Transmission fluids need change after you run the bike 10-13 hours, that fits a month for me most of the year... so I do that each "meet" (we compete once a month year round on state level) I like to do all maint that night before I load up, air filters, oil changes, check hydraulics and all that. nice thing is, there are 2 orings in the clutch cover, that is all that can allow a leak into the transmission, anyhow. check all the other bolts and fittings.

did you feel it? I just wondered though... over the "exhaust port" isnt it likely there might be some 'scratching' which might scare a guy and yet be normal? Sorry I can't say if that looks bad or normal, haven't had pipe off the last 4 or 5 bikes I have owned.

Ok, good to hear lee. Many just get one then complain the clutch doesn't "not drag" like the dirtbike they had.

I like to use that big ol light in the sky to ride (trials) in.

Guys, if you are blueing pipes the pipe is getting way too hot exhaust gasses, ESPECIALLY from below "pro-ish" when only for "trials usage." Fourstrokes I was kind of led to believe is the same, but maybe not always. IMHO, if you are blueing because you are treating your 2 stroke as if it was an F1 racer down the loops and trails, that has no bearing on "normal Trials Usage" imho, so it is hard to say anymore than it looks to me as lean as hell? Sure, Some of the best riders in the world might run an engine really lean and end up with blue pipes, but they get free "engines" as easily as fenders from the sponsor, so if you have the kind of money, you can do the same, IMHO I guess. To the OP... I should have brought pictures, but my 2010-2012 the welds have a blueish tint (they look like stripes) but the material between welds, are golden. yours looked to have gotten hot to me, and all the non welded materials turned blue, which is not good if it didn't get installed new that color. dad's 2013 we just un-crated has no blue at all when I looked although I didn't look that close (forgot about this thread)... makes you go hmm...

I guess I read that the Voltage Regulator Burns a resistor out in the black box thingy, so no voltage can even get to the bike's sparky stuff. read that today, cant recall where.

Make damn sure you dont have lighting wires or anything that can short to ground, you know?! most bikes in USA have had lights removed and all that, they had to be "cut" out of older bikes, and now days most wired to unplug. Oh I have a spark plug I could have sent to you, that works PERFECTLY until about 3000 RPMs then fails to spark. changed that and a bike I helped work on ran fine, so who knows for sure... another buddy had his kill switch close to grip, his hand actually hit switch in a certain position, so again some things can be a fluke.

Gasgas clutches DRAG ever so slightly! that is all there is to it, if you are expecting "absolutely no drag" like some dirbikes, and most street bikes, you are hoping for impossible. Go ride 10 of your best friends gasgas's then see how bad yours is. when STOPPED in gear, engine running, it is a BITCH to find neutral. Best course of action is to do it before you stop, kill engine find neutral, or use your right hand to hold the clutch, use left hand to tug on the shifter.

My Opinion, and what I believe to be true... The pre 04 covers had a slightly thinner/smaller diameter on the plunger, which means for the exact same mount of cc's of fluid pushed from the master cylinder, it would move farther. back in the day, Raga (for a while) was reportedly using his 02 cover on even his 04 bikes, because the clutch acted quicker I think it was... Anyhow, smaller slave cylinder, which is reducing the "leverage" affect or what is it called hydraulic advantage? you are filling a smaller slave cylinder, less leverage. you know what I mean, it is like on a jack that takes 5 pumps to move 2cm, is easier to pump than one that moves 2cms in 2 pumps, which is an exaggeration, but is what is happening, on the same exact weight you are trying to lift. Mineral oil was about the rubber o-rings inside that slave piston/area. I myself prefer using dot5 {silicone} myself, I convert all my bikes back to this for 2 reasons, easier to find the dot5 than others, and silicone based might seem slippery'er to the master and slave cylinders (easier to move). I put 06 (and up) springs in 02's 03's and 04's FWIW. You MUST make sure the fingers are within spec, aka when clutch-pack is in spec the fingers cannot stick up past what is that spec 19mm? if the fingers stick up past that, you need to replace the metal clutch plates with ones that are thinner. thick clutch packs cause fingers to be too high. Don't push the envelope high fingers, as this will mean clutch will slip when you let clutch lever out (fully released). if the fingers are low, the clutch gets harder to operate, when at high end, it is easier to operate. Hope that helps, and if I am wrong about raga, it has been a long time since then, memory fades...

Dude, and Dudes? if the bike is like mine, it shouldnt be BLUE! My pipes weren't blue when new, but if yours started life like mine, and then it blues, It is an indication that you have let it get Way lean or way HOT. But if the weld was blue when they got done making it, I guess you could be OK? Wierd from my experience (posted at bottom) my pipe on older bike turned blue, but from bolts to around that first curve. yours is MID curve, so I cant swear I am right. Big thing is, did it change? I just dont believe a smart exhaust company would make the pipe and leave blue on it, since it is a sign of a problem, seeing it change to blue, can save you. I bought a bike setup to ride above 8000ft. In my state, about 1100ft, the pipe turned blue on the "chromed" headpipe of an older 01 txt engined bike, with only a few minutes of RIDE time. Ihad no Idea it would blue that quickly, maybe he had it lean for his altitude, but down at mine, it blued quick. Thank gawd Truckers have chrome stacks on Semi-tractors over here and sell a creme that will "rub" the blue off the pipe easily. Normal polish wouldn't but this stuff worked with a a few strokes and shinie like new. if you need some, Ill get a picture of the bottle if I can find it. (think it was actually called BLUE AWAY) Yes, street and performance race bikes will blue the pipes, they run HIGH RPMS and a lot of heat. I know drag boat racers pump water in headers to keep this (and eventually melting the headers off) from happening... Trials bikes don't, usually cause that much heat. BTW in Kansas we've ridden in 105F and still not blue pipes of tuned bike. but they can get hot on long "loops" between sections, but like I said, my headpipes never turned blue, even at high elevation pulling long steep hills. Back brake rotors, on the other-hand, coming down the mountains/ski slopes we rode a trials at, turned blue... lol Might at least do some "spark plug" diagnosis, and check and write down what 2 jets you have, maybe others that ride near and with you can at least confirm you have "similar" jets in same sized gasgas? if everone else has a 42, you have a 32, you could BET or figure, that is a problem.

Main thing is, if the pads wont easily retract the "pistons" that are in the caliper, then 99 of 100 times you have the lever adjuster setup wrong, and the "PLUNGER" that is in the Master Cylinder is not returning to "at rest" position, which allows the hydraulic fluid to flow from cable to resivior. if it ISNT just he adjuster, then it is a smidge of dirt behind the boot, behind the C-Clip that holds the "plunger" and stops it from being able to come fully out on travel. OR the 1% that I have seen, you have a problem in the caliper, the pistons came out too far,on ONE side and are now "cocked" or crooked and wont go back in. the pistons are made of something that is a fragile as glass/Plastic so DO be carefull how you pry on the pistons themselves, that is why we usually have the "old" pads in there and then jam around with a screwdrivers. I stick a flat blade in mine that is slightly bigger than the gap, and twist the screwdriver and the pads will move "apart" so it shouldn't take excessive force!

Again these are troubleshooting before you have to buy parts, I guess 06 or near there, a few have had to get new Voltage regulator or something. What I see happening is, in your best interest, check everything you can, then find someone that knows their way around these bikes, fellow rider or shop... those guys have had it happen to them, or know what it is, and you have saved some time "diagnosing" in a way, even if you have to take it to a shop.

No, you have a huge (1/2 inch) big problem. the shaft is shimed between bearing and the cover, and if you dont get the bearing all the freaking way in you cannot get the cover on all the way. Rules to know about gasgas, they have video's of how to do a lot of "maintenance" on YouTube. look for the one about kick starter or splitting the cases... http://www.youtube.c...SGASinfo/videos this is the "list of videos" he has up there. That's Jim Snell, Parts importer for the USA, the videos were given out to north american customers when bought new, as the "owners manual" on DVD.

OP, Your question about seal for cover, on mine, it is a paper gasket, I glue the gasket to my covers, trying to keep them from tearing if/when I take covers off, works half the time, lol. silicone is a PITA to clean off. if you tighten the cover too tight it will cause the cover to deform and gap between bolts. that flywheel is a lot different than ones on 300cc's versions. Id want to clean (especially the bottom of the sensor, and that raised area as "Dadof2" mentioned in post above mine, make sure no corrosion, then line up the raised part to the sensor (little black box thing inside at 1 oclock, make sure sensor clears that raised part of flywheel, but use a business card to "air gap" them apart. Test by hand nothing else can "hit" that sensor BTW, by rotating flywheel. my magnetic / sensor area on my flywheel, is flush with flywheel, yours is not. if you get the flywheel off, clean everything "that corrosion can flake off" then cover with something like WD-40, it will chase out moisture, that is what I do, always hopin a thin coat keeps it from coming back or growing.

FWIW certain years the problem with the OP's of this thread, seems to match other posts I have read (bad rectifier). BUT, I bought on 07, that someone didn't get the stator plate tight (behind flywheel has the coils and stuff on it, and it lost spark at least enough spark I couldnt kick start it, I didnt try pull starting when I tested with plug out and it didn't seem to spark. I too had to unhook kill switch then decided to check wires for burns and or bad connections, I then took flywheel off, and just happened to touch the stator, it was loose, just barely loose but loose. I figured since it was no longer properly grounded, I hoped I had found the answer. tightened the bolts (3 of them) after taking off the flywheel of course, put flywheel on, and I had spark again. and it hasn't missed a bit since. BTW make sure you have kill switch so you can kill the bike, snooping under the tank you can cause the throttle cable to have carb held open, scary stuff without kill switch, bad enough if you have one hooked up, lol.

He might meant the "brains" or electronic spark control box? OP needs to give us more info, what year, couple years have had a few little things posted here in gasgas forums, about losing spark? certain ignition parts fixed it? Make sure flywheel area behind cover is not wet, let alone corroded. the sensor for spark is (on 02 "pro" model engines and newer) is where the wires enter the case. The outside of flywheel needs to be clean on flywheel, and on the pickup, and be no more than a cheap business card gap from flywheel for a good starting point, I don't know what feeler gauge measurement actually would be. I just use my business card, or a piece of paper folded 3 times, just cant touch flywheel, closer the better the spark it seems lol. I bought on 07 that someone didn't get the stator plate tight (behind flywheel has the coils and stuff on it, and it lost spark, since it was no longer grounded. Here's some other things you can check. 1 boot where plug hooks to, it 'twists" into the wire with a threaded "pin" to make contact of wire in lead, and as before mentioned that spark plug wire loose in the spark box. Corroded ground wires at the big box mounted to frame under gas tank. Kill switch corroded and shorting it's self out, so unhook both wires to see if you get spark. I dont recommend ever starting a bike without a way to kill the engine (in case you got throttle cable jacked up while troubleshooting, WFO will is hard to kill even with a killswitch... something easy I hope. good luck