sting32

There was huge debate and warnings about the Auto Trac 2 GM oil, Over seas fellas said they caused the clutch plates to swell? I never saw that problem, had the bike at least 4 years, this was back when my family, had my 08 and 10 ragas... we since then, switched to Yamalube (semi synthetic) 0-20 or 5-30, my friend is using mobil1 same viscosity synthetic I think he said. I rode his bike a bit, feels about same on clutch as far as I am concerned. Plus they are cheaper than autotrac2, unless you can get it cheaper than normal people? But, just knowing, and maybe considering it, Might save a problem later, but who really knows. as I said I never saw/experienced the problem that I know of? Swelling (fiber) plates, will make the clutch harder to pull over time as it gets out of "spec" just FYI. hard to know it is harder than usual, until you try another bike's of the general era (06 or newer) clutch that is still in spec and works nice. THe 2013 raga model we have, with newer brand clutch master cylinder is harder to pull (new) than my 12raga, but just so slightly, so just all FYI...

Just some "what I have learned and read, and experienced over the past 13 years... Trials bikes are p*** poorly able to survive, for long spurts and rides at over half throttle. the exhaust is tuned to have power and torque at LOW RPM (idle, or tickover)... at higher RPMS the exhaust doesn't escape as quickly as the MUCH LOUDER, MOTOCROSS/Enduro tuned engines. notice the first difference you will see on the 2 types of bike's engine areas, the expansion chamber, and the entire exhaust system. Most trials riders have to flip choke on to richen fuel to hope it keeps engine cooler and lubed, I just don't ride more than half throttle, and vary the throttle from closed to open all that time I ride higher speeds across a loop or what not. Worst part is, climbin mountainous areas, as in New mexico and Colorado (ute cups), burns the plastic ends of silencers off the newer bikes, some of that could be jetting for altitudes that we aren't as accustomed to, we flat low landers burn these all the time, unless you go slow and easy, or take breaks (let the bike idle more, or lug the engine more instead of high revs). Lewissport sells a replacement for the plastic ends, made from aluminum, that I WISH TO GOSH ALMIGHTY, gasgas would go back to using... But the rest of the exhaust gets to friggin hot I melted non trials pants, even with guards in most of the places. on my 1999 321, I recall it melting the airbox/fender and stuff, after my 1st trip a half mile down a road, racing my buddy who was on our old 79 Bultaco Sherpa-T... good luck. and your mileage could darn well vary...

Cope, I have no "Clouseau" what you are on about? Farmer Dan, if the seals (o-rings) arent the ones we use on newer bikes, then I wouldn't. sorry to be late checking back in. I am low ranking rider compared to you fellas over seas, most of our riding skills are exceptional use of the clutch on turns and such, maybe. So I like DOT5, in clutch, seems to pull infinitesimally easier? (hardly can tell) but dot5 and 4 is helluva lot easier to find in Dirt bike shops in where I live, compared to mineral oil based - brake fluids. my earlier post was typo laden, as I tried to type in the dark. I have to see the keys to type, lol...

why? THAT is the reason it is 2 piece head. they changed the outlet or inlet on left side at least, to the head somewhere around 12 or 13...

I hate mineral oil in clutch, but that is just me. I like DOT 5 (silicone based) in my 13 raga clutch, been using it in all my bikes since 06... Background as I understand, and was already typed by Michale-T, THE 02 was the absolutely 1st engine, revision of the PRO engine, IF YOU GOT A PRO ENGINED BIKE... tons of (small) changes since 2002, and one big one, including the entire side cover, the orings in the hat shaped plunger inside that case. Plus the 02 moved farther with lever pull, and the pull was slightly tougher on finger. You can order the 06 Belville spring, makes the clutch easier to pull as well. we did that on several bikes that were 02, 03, and o4 & 05's around here... THe clutch will never "not drag" by design, mostly. the bike should idle with bike in gear, with clutch pulled in, but it wont technically free wheel, like your auto, or honda/harley/yamaha/etc... street/enduro bike, ever. Biggest complaint always heard on Gasgas is cant find neutral when stopped. It is basically because clutch is putting slight pressure on drivetrain, making neutral hard to get, I use my hand, or find neutral before I completely stop. the clutch has so many user customizable settings, made to be able to slip the clutch a lot or a little, it is amazing. Hydraulic parts will fail over time, that bike is 12 years old... there are rebuild kits, might help your problem. it includes the oring like seals in the master cylinders, on the plunger shaft, that can wear out. shaft can wear out compromising how much fluid is pushed into the line, which moves the fingers, on the clutch itself it is all important there is NOT any losses. ### Lever adjustment, Damaged line, as well as just dirt in master cylinder plunger area, can cause seemingly unexplainable problems with clutches and brakes. has to do with 'at rest" position, lines up pinholes which allow fluid out of or in to the line. heat expands fluids, line pressure is let off through pin hole that can ONLY align when plunger can rest completely against the c-clip holding it into the master cylinder. I have seen dirt cause this to not allow plunger to reach line-up or at rest position. good luck.

#1 Throw soaked pads away, else you will cuss and groan about how the brakes work. #2 inspect that the 4 (2 per side) are moving in and out. BE CAREFUL, you can pop these out of caliper, I dont let that happen so I cant describe what other problems you face if you let this happen. #3 Brake pads have a minimum thickness then they are TRASH. get a pair from dealer or something, compare yours. if they are worn too thin, brakes work like sheeit. they are cheap. I like to take 200 grit (usa terms?) emery paper and scuff my discs, to help break in new pads. scuff, means lightly...

It is easy for both or either to be the problem. the heads come off so easy, when you need to, I would check it, if you smelled the "sweet smelling" smell that happens when your engine is trying to burn antifreeze, if it was not from silencer, then probably not ... However the smell you smelled could been from overflow hose, and could drip onto exhaust so making that wierd sweet smell. not usually that strong overpowering of a smell as when it fogs out exhaust. if it is coming from exhaust, you will need to check the Orings on the head, IMHO. if Oring is problem you will never keep oil out of the tranny until that is sorted. Heads are interchangeable, so if previous owner had head off for any reason it might be suspect, it takes a dab of grease and steady hands to put head back on cylinder without losing/pinching an Oring. if you do as recommended by just about any GG mechanic, a kit with new shaft and seal. if you do this yourself, which is pretty basic and easy for most familiar with hand tools and wrenching, make dang sure you have all the parts, I put a tiny amount of grease into the seal when I put shaft back into place, make dang sure you put the seal in the correct way. gasgasinfo (username) on Youtube used to have videos uploaded on how to fix most anything on a gasgas including this, they were down for a while, I hear they are back up. Excuse my absolute ignorance of when the date was, but the little impeller shaft was never hardened right/correctly for many years production, and replacement parts were same. I was reading or told that they finally tackled this issue, so new kits should have harder shaft. It used to be a problem I faced about every 16 months of riding. yeah I ride year round, many events and moderate to heavy practice time... explanation of what is the issues... on the old - softer shafts, the seal can and will wear a groove in that little shaft, which in effect ruins the ability for the seal to operate like is should, usually expanding antifreeze, created enough pressure to blow past seal and even a few drops of AF in trans oil, makes a cloudy mess of the oil... when you repair I suggest cheapest trans fluid, fill ride a few minutes and drain and fill again, then put your good normal oil in.

surely outside the USA, there has to be a dealer that has been around a while, might have some spokes for the sherco .5 circa 2000-2003, this is the 50cc bikes. Anyone got any ideas, I called RYP in usa, he didn't have any and says he cant get them from Sherco, so now I need a lucky guess on a dealer that might have had some, or custom spoke maker? Custom Options? thinking someone had to make them for Sherco at some point. Honda urban express wheels have same spokes but are 1/2 inch too long, still the problem is getting the wire "threaded" if I get them cut. Really hoping for help from people overseas (non usa?) that might be able to help. Im still calling places in the USA. I have a whole bunch of the honda spokes, if I could get threads on them, I would be set. No idea who can thread the spokes. the diameter is 2.63 mm, they think it is 12 gauge, spokes. Both these places refered to from others in the USA: I called Buchannon Spokes in USA, diameter is too thin for them to do anything with. I called Webcyclery (bicycle shop) they are too thick of a guage.

Help, on hold and live in USA, did OP ever find these spokes? Needing at least 3 rear spokes, searching around, if anyone knows the answer...

You need to refer to this oil and what it is for correctly, because you can get answers that vary. what you are talking about in our 2 stroke bikes, is the Transmisssion lubrication. in a 4 stroke this many times is "engine oil" because the whole engine is lubricated with this oil... a 2 stroke the "Engine" (aka piston, & rod, and in the old days main bearings) the engine is lubricated with oil added to fuel, called Premix oil. Gasgas started lubing the 2 main crank bearings in the 2002 pro engine with the oil in the gearbox, this is EXACTLY why you change the oil VERY OFTEN!!! 10-12 hours of section riding... Now we're past that information, I recommend until you are full on hopping everything (turns etc) that you use lighter side of engine oils... I use 5/30w yamaha's fully synthetic engine oil, in my bikes. this allows the clutch to have a nice range of slip when you are trying to feather the clutch through a turn. ATF I believe is favored by upper level class riders that don't ride like us mortals; that hop everything and do 12ft ledges and stuff. they want the clutch to lock up instantly... I want the clutch to not lock up instantly, to let me make my turn without killing the engine or pushing the front tire out of bounds, I don't hop except when I make a mistake usually, I can get by with one hop maybe 2, else I just put foot down and turn the damn bike to where I need to go. if that describes you as well, try the automobile engine oils in the transmission. This being non USA board, I have to let you make the conversions, I just assumed all cars and 4 stroke engines use oil labeled something like 10w/30 like we do in the states. instead of 400 cc that the manual says, I use only 375 cc's.. but I do NOT use this bike to do anything but ride sections on, if you are going to trail ride, fill it full like manual says, just to be safe.

My son broke the "safety fuseable part" described before that is on the very end of the shift shaft, behind the clutch, on his 06 pro years back. when this happened, the shaft would stay where ever you pushed it, but what was funky was you could shift the bike with a quick jab of the pedal/lever. it seemed that that fusable link was tight enough on the shaft, and where it broke would almost catch good enough to shift, occasionally though... But not good enough to return the shifter to "center" which at 1st baffled me, I was afraid that more stuff was ruined until I fixed it with the $15 fusable link part... I took the cover off, cluch out, pulled that part off the shaft off, it came off in 2 pieces as it should have, and put new on on, all was good. The red arrow points to the part we broke. In the center (visible in drawing) is the little breakable center pin like metal piece. His stayed in place, and like I said broke with enough jaggyness that it tried to shift due to diggin in and friction I guess. You can check that part really easily, by moving the lever. My guess though is, we could rotate the shifter 360 degrees, if you cannot, then you might have broken something past that (as inside the gearbox at the drum (Parts outlined as part#28 is inside the cases, and part #13 gets damaged when it failed to break the part I'm pointing to...

Radiator shop might be the guy to see, I think where your problem is, they might be able to braze or weld, if there is no reason or forces causing the crack to re occur? Welding with tig is probably stronger, I have a buddy that can weld Coors beer cans together, consistently... good welder like that, is what you need probably.

The 02 was heavier than that, it has the steel OLD forks tubes & larger old fork tanks on the front. new bikes the pair of alum forks weigh less than one of the old forks. Dad actually weighed all our bikes, when we still had the 06 pro, 08 10 raga, and the 11 raga 300's. they had different weights of course, ready to ride (full of fuel and all that) with the 11 being the lightest. if he still has it written down anywhere, I might remember to post it. Plus we've owned (or chaperon'd owners) that had the 02 280, and they cannot believe how much difference there is in bikes, until each of them moved up to, well like my newest rider went to the 08 or 07 Pro... there is more than just the weight, but where the weight is IMHO, that makes a difference. I guess we'll have lead skid plates next year, so Honda can finally catch up with gasgas/sherco/beta on "bike weights" lol. Again, I laugh a little, with you guys because Jordi was throwing the old 93 models around more than most of us ever will the 14 on up models...

JSE said it already, and I say it again, not much Above 2/3 throttle, the only adjustment to how "clean" the bike revs, is done with correct Jets... this is assuming timing, spark and all that are right. Broken or half broken key on flywheel can make bikes run like crap at different RPMS, I had a plug go bad in a 200 pro, that would not rev above 1/3 throttle but run and idle all day long, as soon as you tried to lift front wheel with throttle it would almost die, throwing me over the bars, lol. What it sounds to me like is he has too big of a jet... jets are changed when you change altitudes at which you ride. as you increase altitude, you go with smaller jets. Now Can't tell you for positive which JET exactly, but as you approach WIDE OPEN throttle, the engines run more and more on JET SETTING, everthing else we adjust for idle, tickover and response off idle... So, it seems to me that would be a main jet, which is too big (letting more fuel) which is causing a RICH mixture, which makes the bike "blubber" instead of wind up "clean crisp" sounding exhaust note... JSE might correct me...

IT works anywhere in USA at least, so you guys need to get some placemarks down, I did mine...

Just a FYI, This is the "North American Trials Club list" http://www.trialsclubs.us/ it used to be hosted and linked to, from the NATC site, but I guess they dont think anyone wants or needs this information? However, & luckily, the fella's that kept it up, and keep it up were from our NATC... if you know of more clubs, use that site's link to email and give them a heads up. I will (when I have time again) try to create a Sticky (with help of Andy) for this forum, with some often needed and used links... There you go.

I had a friend with a gasgas 200 pro. the bike wouldn't go above 1/3 throttle. I cleaned the carb 10 times, thinking it was plugged jet or something. then for no reason, tried another plug, bike ran great... half the day was wasted cleaning the carb over and over. the plug was a "looked new" and probably was, iridium? NGK. I think that is why I changed it, me and NGK just never get along... lol.

80:1 non ethanol fuel will work fine, if you try to motocross that bike, might use more oil in gas, the (trials) bike wont take being ran around high RPM and loads, when we run long distances on loops, we're 1/4 to 1/2 throttle most people, talking more than 1/4 mile... Bullet points to remember. your mileage may vary... 1 WFO longer than a few seconds at a time, you will burn a trials engine up, don't care what you use for oil. Lots of damage has occured on NEWER tighter trials bikes, when they have landed on throttle wide open crash, unable to shut engine off quickly. 1b most are using "tethers" so when rider is removed from bike, so is spark. 2 Pro's and better riders running long distances been said to turn on choke, to race down the paths that can go close to WFO. 3 Most trials information (any brand) recommends you vary the throttle when running down the trail at higher than 1/2 throttle as a rule of thumb. 4 Trials exhaust is VERY restrictive in general, because the bike is tuned to run at best at low RPMS, so exhaust causes the bike to get hot at HIGH rpms... hope that helps, the above guys got the rest.

IMHO, and personal experience with KEHIN's and USA's Blended "ethnanol" fuels: When it happens it means you need to take the carb off once a month or so, you will notice when the idle air/fuel mixture screw seems to have little affect with anything like more than 1/4 turn adjustment or more, on the now crappy running engine... this has been on several 300cc raga's I have owned, and seems to me to be matter of fact. when I take the big jet out of the carb (same one that the slide needle is sticking into) there is always what amounts to be "snot" that builds up on the inside but past the jet... IF I find snot I know I had ethanol fuel, alcohol is some % water, water and oil do NOT mix, they "glob"! I ride a LOT per month, so you might not notice it monthly basis like I did. I now have access to non alcohol fuels, so I seldom have this problem. Another thing, if you buy NON alcohol fuels where the same pump and hose is desepensing the alcohol blend, if you are smart you pump the 1st 1/2 gallon into your pickup/car, then fill your gas_can you fill to mix fuel, because that last customer bought the cheap stuff, and the hose is full of that crappy ethanol fuel.

FYI, Don't assume anything by year, on gasgas necessarily, look at pictures of the 2 piece heads to verify you got one. the head is usually different color than engine paint, and where the spark plug goes the "insert" shows through, they are anodized colors, seems gold is low compression, silver is std, I think red is High?

Just did a 07 last week, that had slight leaks around several spoke nipples, all we luckily had to do was clean the rubber, and clean the rim, I like to dribble a drop of fine oil, like sewing machine oil on each nipple due to corrosion you know, but all I did was wipe a little bit of grime off the ruber, and the rim, reinstalled new tire, no leaks. on a 1999 I had, I put a thin layer of silicone on the side edges of rubber, to help, but in reality probably didn't need to, but the rim was rougher shape, this 07 seemed pretty smooth, just had some light dirt to wipe off. Good luck...

Delorto has a screen at the supply hose point of entry on carb, last I knew, these can be plugged as well. if you buy any bike, especially not from a dealer that wants to make sure you are satisfied, as such, cleaning the carb is the 1st thing to do. it is SIMPLE, you dont need a kit like you would for a car, you should take pictures as you take things apart if this is your first time, use spray carb cleaner, air compressor make sure those screw in Jets are clean all the way through, DO NOT CLEAN WITH A WIRE or drill bits, like some have. FOR DANG SURE, when you working on parts like a Carb, do NOT overtighten things, and most of all!!! work in a CLEAN area that if you drop a part, you can find the dang thing ---> dont ask my why I know to tell you this. how many hours have I searched for the float needle that fell out while I was holding another part? too many hours and too many times, to do more than suggest that tip.

when in doubt, like I am now about your answer, I would look it up on a PARTS BREAKDOWN at gasgas Spain's site, (here's the starting point for manuals... http://www.gasgasmotos.es/en/manuals.html (exploded means parts breakdowns in "exploded views" and the list part numbers. older parts breakdowns (from memory) might list all 3 models in same explode, so you could see it like this. txt125 txt250 txt280 txt300 Part1# Part2# part2# Part3# if numbers are same then obviously same. might depend on years for sure? they usually list parts in a chart for what fits what, like above on some part views, or used to. 2 Yes they have packing that you can repack... they tend to fill with oil/soot, new packing is just fiberglass stuff made for silencers, don't lose the screen around the tube in the middle, I clean everything I can off the tube and screen...

what would you possibly be needing this information for? I have ridden all these years, never wanted to know the "drive ratio", ever, lol.

all you would be doing in most cases is doubling the trophies they have to give out, Ok no you wouln't. But, then what happens when east coast guys have money and funds to travel all over? we don't want them to stay home either. I at first thought like the idea, since most probably do NOT travel the extremes, like NY or Cali? from anywhere on the opposite coast, I mean except maybe the pros? Maybe one more event to have east vs west at a final, like in some place more central, like KS or NE, or even probably best be at the TTC in TN, but take the TN round out of the east coast mix? (if we did the east vs west thing I am thinking) as the "final?" or superbowl?