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Are the lights on all the time ( no on/off switch, just dip) If so it sounds like the feed wire to the dip switch has a bad connection or the wire is broken.
For the MOT if push comes to shove you can cover all the lights up and get a day time MOT.
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That was a quick reply. Thank you for the info.
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I have a rear wheel which I think is from a 240 Fantic. Could anyone confirm this or have an idea as to what it is from please.
Thank you.
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Thank you for the information.
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Hello,
I have just bought a 2002 Beta Alp 200. Could anyone please tell me what size sprockets they use for Trials use (LDT) and road use.
Many thanks.
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The only shims on the crankshaft would be the Big End Crankpin thrust washers
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Google Yamaha TTR 125 wiring diagram and you will find a pdf Yamaha manual, which has a wiring diagram . Seeing as the motor is a TTR 125 that might well help.
I couldn't get it to link to this page.
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If it has the original wipac round coil in the stator plate, remove the HT lead but leave the low tension side connected to the points. Run a wire from the points to a Japanese 6v ac coil, put that under the tank. Fully advance the stator plate, set the points gap at 10 thou and bend the points spring a bit to give it more tension. Fit a new condenser. I used a 6v dc coil and battery on the D7 Bantam I had. It was a lot better with that set up.
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To the best of my knowledge that method of marking was used in Ireland.
Early post war marking was 3 for footing ( dab or paddle ) and 5 for a stop. 1 mark for a dab came in in the mid fifties and remained as 1, 3, 5 until early 70's, 73 ish when the 2 for two dabs came in.
Didn't make much difference to me when I started riding in Schoolboy events in 72 on a £15 D1 plunger Bantam as best I could hope for was a 3
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Hello. Sometimes it is a bit of grit or dirt in the seal and can be cleaned out using a film negative. I have done this with success. Certainly worth a try before stripping your forks. if you're really keen you could buy one of these !!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Seal-Mate-Tool-Sealmate-Fix-Leaking-Fork-Seals-Quick-Easy-Fast-Affordable-/121059312192?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item1c2fb28240
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I have a Scorpa TYS 125 and I am more than happy with it. It struggles in muddy conditions but I put that down to operator error
There is one on Ebay at the moment. Right money I would say.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2004-SCORPA-TYS-125-F-BLUE-WHITE-Trials-GasGas-Sherco-Beta-Montesa-/151498431709?pt=UK_Motorcycles&hash=item2346029cdd
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Fantastic video from a classic No stop era, when you only used the clutch to put the bike in gear
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Back in the day Champion L10 was the choice for anything with a short reach plug
This should be a far better recommendation http://villiersservices.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=21_22_32&products_id=153
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I know its a bit late but those forks might well be from a C11G. is the thread left hand? I had C11 forks in a D1 40 years ago. When bantams were worth about £15
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I know its a bit late now but here's the Peter Gaunt original, 1973 SSDT . Sorry for poor quality
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Broke mine in as a sixteen year old in 1975, larking about on a mates 125 Dalesman Puch. In plaster for eight weeks. Stayed off my Bultaco until it healed. Didn't affect my Trialing though as I've never been much good
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Do you have a nice alloy barrel as well, Andy or the cast iron original ?
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.Can't take much credit for the bash plate, Archie as I robbed the idea from the works bike
http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/uploads/post-10-1077206344.jpg and also.....http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/uploads/post-10-1082578931.jpg and ........http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/uploads/post-10-1082579322.jpg
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Hello Archie. Thank you for the comments.It is the standard bash plate with extension pieces added on. I bought a sheet of 5 mm thick 6082-T6 alloy plate from Ebay. The Exhaust is painted with Plastikote BBQ paint(also available from Ebay).It stays on very well. I recommend it. Your bike looks very nice
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How about this 1962 Rickman Capriolo 125 Trials conversion
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A more robust bash plate is worthwhile. On the downside it does get a bit muddy
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Standard valve clearance setting is 4 thou (.10 mm) Inlet and 6 thou (.15 mm) Exhaust. I run my 125 on 5 in & 7 ex for a better tick over, thats the theory anyway You definitely don't want to set them tighter.
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6 psi front and 4 in the back
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Has yours had the flywheel lightened? I rode mine in a trial for the first time last week and found it quite flat. Just how I like it
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