dadof2

Regarding using the knee to correct a slide I was just going on comments made by Casey Stoner and some others, I would certainly agree there are plenty of occasions when it does not work. One of the best "saves" I have ever seen was at Silverstone in 1979, I think it was Graziano Rossi in the 250 race, It was on a fast right hander, he dropped the bike completely on its side then somehow it came upright again, he ran alongside at maybe 80 mph and jumped back on again. Commentator made some comment about the rider needing fresh underpants. Cheers

07 rev 3 should have 20w-40 in gearbox Use 10w-40 engine oil or 75w gear oil Synthetic will give more protection than mineral I am certain Caltex will do these grades I would not use ATF it is far too thin

Look at trials videos on youtube

Really to make any progress you need to be able to use a multimeter or find someone who can. Just throwing parts at it is a very expensive way to sort the problem. On the stator the ignition system has 2 components, the source coil and the trigger coil. The source coil generates the power and the trigger generates a pulse to tell the CDI the position of the crank - the CDI unit then fires the ignition coil at the right time before TDC. if you can identify the source coil (the large coil with fine windings) it should have a resistance of typically 250 to 350 ohms. The trigger oil is a much smaller "thingy" usually with a metal blade or point near the flywheel. Typically it has a resistance of 1000 to 1200 ohms. I would see if MRS can provide a circuit diagram with wire colours and resistance readings. At Scarborough you are not too far from AG bikes at Reeth who are sherco dealers.

In Hailwoods day the bikes slid very little and had very little power and narrow power bands. The only way to make them go fast was to ride smoothly, concentrate an keeping the engine "on the cam" and tuck well in to minimise air resistance. Having the knee down on the corner sometimes enables the rider to push the bike back up to avoid a crash following a front wheel slide. Another reason riders hang off the inside is to reduce the bike lean angle to make the suspension work better and control the tyre contact patch. Having the inside leg out into a corner is probably a comfort thing, in case of a slide picked up from motocrossing, You occasionally see road racers do it in very wet conditions even though the don't do it in the dry. Cheers

I really don't know what all the fuss is about. I watched Andorra on TV last Thursday and there was plenty of rideable sections and no stop does not to me detract from the spectacle. Is there really that much skill in hopping a bike about - I see plenty of lads doing it in the paddock at club trials. The real skill is finding grip and getting over large obstacles and this is just the same in no stop. Regarding whether the rider stops or not, there were perhaps some cases of what I think was over lenient marking, but so what so long as the observer gives all riders the benefit of the doubt to the same extent. The cream always rises to the top as is being shown in the WTC points. cheers

I think "dead mans switches" are a good idea although I don't have one on my bike (yet) Regarding rear sprocket guards, my 76 OSSA MAR did not have one and I still have the scars to prove it on the fleshy part under my forearm from when I dropped the bike, slipped and fell on it. It was extremely painful and kept me off the bike for 2 weeks.

I see 2 bike stolen from Carnforth, this just goes on and on as it has been for years Unfortunately bike owners seem unable to face the reality that theft can happen to them. Some of the police do have a could not care less attitude to bike theft (and some other serious crime). Even if your bike is insured you will suffer considerable financial loss if it is stolen, probably in the region of £1000 or more. A friend of mine had his Ducati road bike stolen, he had to pay £500 excess, insurance only paid out £1000 less than he paid for bike only a few months before and his premium went up for next few years coating about £500. REGISTER your bike and stamp the registration number onto as many parts as possible. A set of stamps only costs £13 from Toolstation yest this will decrease the chance of theft /increase chance of bike being recovered by about 90%. CCTV (including 2 cameras and 30 day recorder) only costs £300 from Screwfix. Some people suggest removing parts - a good idea especially fuel tank or front exhaust part. Cheers. PS I am now the owner of a camera that will have cost in excess of £200. I found it but it had no ID on it and the police were unable to trace the owner. Also heaps of recovered stolen bikes go to the crusher - again because they can't be identified or owner cant be found.

JK Hirst at Bradford is place for spares - they have a website Regarding carburettor setting as on your other post, this is a bit of a long subject = I suggest you buy "two stroke tuning" by Graham Bell or read Gordon Jennings (Yamaha designer) book which is in full on the web. If you have the right grade of plug in the insulator should be chocolate brown, any lighter and it is too weak. Cheers

Does it still have the oil pump connected? If on premix I would use a SAE40 2T oil at 32 or 25:1 Silkoline do one for these Modern lean ratio synthetics are designed for watercooled engines with much smaller piston / bore clearances and lower operating temperatures. I am 90% certain you can replace the crankcase seals without splitting the engine but its many years since I had one apart.

I hope you get it sorted but I have doubts. Ring end gap is constant. your fault is intermittent. often your signs of richness are an ignition fault. see if you can find a garage with a PICOscope or similar and check your HT KVa and wave form, your source coil waveform and your trigger coil wave form. If you identify the source and trigger coil wires and make sure they are accessible these tests will only take a ffew minutes. Some mobile mechanics carry PICOscopes. Cheers

People moving from one sport to another often encourages others to follow. I moved from trials to motocross. When I first rode my 414 montesa I thought what had I done, it seemed huge and powerful even though I was used to 1100cc road bikes. soon mastered it and I think trial riding is good grounding. I had a WR 400 Husqvarna enduro but never competed on it. I would suggest getting something small with soft bottom end power, You will more than make up in the nadgery bits anything you loose on the fast bits. Kawasaki 200cc 2 stroke KDX used to be a brilliant bike, smallish, easy to handle in the tricky bits and fast enough to be competitive on an mx track. cheers

See what you can pick up in good condition for your budget, 250, 280 or 300. If you find any of them a bit powerful it is easy to soften them off a bit with extra cylinder base or head gaskets. Even if a bike does not have a head gasket as standard you can fit one made of 0.5 or 0;8mm aluminium. Then if you want more power in future just take it out again

I once had friend put the needle clip on top of the plastic bit on a 310 Ossa he used for commuting, it ran like s--t and did abut 10 miles to the gallon

Thanks for info Funny how a 15 year olds an adult when buying air tickets etc for them but not when it comes to sex - just ask a teacher, or as B40rt suggests an italian

What grade of 300V do they recommend? 300V is expensive high temperature racing oil. Quite a few 4 stroke motocrossers reckon its the bees knees, but that type of use is nowhere near the same as trials.

Anyone know what is age limit for child tickets for Nord View, I can't see it on the ticket sales website Cheers

Standard is a 520 but I have seen kits chain and sprocket kits advertised that are a smaller size. Smaller chain reduces weight, friction and vibration but they stretch / wear faster.

Sometime in the past I made quite a long post on this. Alarms - fit PIRs so the overlook each other. Fit some hidden alarm triggers such as a pressure mat or discreet door sensors. Shield padlocks so they can't be got at with bolt croppers Register your bike - its free if its for off road only, then you have a registration number. hard stamp this number onto as many of the bike parts as possible removing parts like wheels or wheel spindles make the bike useless to a joy rider and very inconvenient for a professional thief. photo any scuffs, marks or difference to standard. A friend of mine recently had the pleasure of seeing a thief jailed for 2 years because he had a hidden camera and recorder - this was actually garden equipment theft.

Perhaps a solution is to start 1/2 the riders at section one and the others 1/2 way round the course. This also has the advantage that breaking in the sections (important on slippery becks) is shared out a bit more. Cheers

I had a couple of 348s, one for 8 years. I like the chain tubes as especially combined with a drip chain oiler the chain and sprocket life is near indefinite. Gearbox oil is EP90 and I think it is 600cc but double check that if you can. Primary drive oil is 10w 30 castrolite but I used to use universal tractor oil with no problems. Capacity 300 to 350cc, but double check this if you can Wheel bearings usual type Swing are bearings are bronze bushes and can take a bit of pushing out.

These are basically very good solid reliable bikes. Check rear linkage and swingarm for play or tightness in bearings / movement. check forks for marks or damage. remove the sump guard and check the front and underside of the engine casings for damage or deep pitting corrosion. Rest is just general as per any off road bike. Just decided to add the following edit - bear in mid that these older bikes are close on 20 kg (3 stone) heavier than the newer bikes.

15 stone and you will probably need a heavier rear spring. probably increase the fork oil depth by 15 to 20 mm. IE reduce the distance of the fork oil from the top of the fork

Fit a bypass switch to the thermostat so you can turn the fan on if you think the bike is getting hot, this should confirm if the fault is the thermostat or not.

Who is actually the better rider - one who completes each part of the section so accurately he does not have to stop and mess about lining up the next part, or one that struggles up a bit, ends up off line then has to mess about lining up for the next bit. In the UK drivers have to do a parallel park manoeuvre on their driving test, those who do it smoothly in one go pass, those who have to shunt about fail. Cheers