dadof2

If its for your 350 Sherpa use EP 75-90 in the gearbox and ATF or 10w30 in the primary drive. Cheers

Well b????r me, I always thought the other bloke was observing as well. I have observed a few times though not recently. On one or two occasions I observed the section alone. You can observe several riders at a time with quite good accuracy as you stand where they are all in the line of vision though possibly you miss the odd dab, and all the riders get the benefit of the doubt. I think your concentration is naturally drawn to the riders who keep their feet up longest. I would think the Scott has less protests over marking than other national trials. The final spread of marks between competitors is usually such that a few observing errors would not affect the result. Cheers

1 for a dab 2 for 2 dabs 3 for 3 or more dabs 5 for stopping - even if due to sections blocked by other bikes - it is the riders choice when to enter section There are usually 2 observers per section. You write down the riders number with his score against it, rather than having to find his number to enter the score against. This means the observers card shows the order in which the riders attempted the section as well as their scores. Cheers

Vent with pipe up to under tank is necessary to accomodate air pressure changes inside cover. Use a grade of silicone that DOES NOT give off acetic acid as it cures / stiffens. The acid fumes will cause damaging corrosion to stator and flywheel.

A dab of silicone or some car body filler usually stops it.

I suggest spraying the whole bike (discs and pads excepted) with WD40 or Contect duck oil. When you want to clean it spray it with Janitol original in water at a ratio of between 10:1 and 20:1. This removes the duck oil and brings all the much off with it. After washing re duck oil the bike. You bike will look new for years if treated in this way. Cheers

200 Beta? I would go for a 250, if its a handful, fit extra base gaskets or retard the timing a hint to soften the power a bit - you can always put it back when you are more experienced. Try before you buy 125s can be a bit lacking torque at low revs and this may make them harder to ride, particularly clutching them in non stop trials. Cheers

Try trading standards at your local council. If that fails write to your MP complaining that the Police will take no action over someone who is clearly a serial scammer. Perhaps write to the chief constable first. I often wonder if front desk staff and some officers at police stations are instructed not to respond to some crimes and not record them to make their clean up statistics look better. Cheers

Firstly you need to establish exactly what the farmer wants. There are at least 2 possibilities 1) Personal liability insurance - this is "normal insurance"You take out 3rd party insurance so that if you injure someone or damage their or the farmers property your insurance pays out. I was once asked for this as a condition of being given permision to shoot. If you look at a typical motorcycle policy it will exclude taking part in speed events or trials, or not apply once you are off the public highway. I was insured with Norwich Union (now Aviva) and once inquired how much it would be to upgrade my policy to cover off road use and trials - it resulted in an approximate doubling of the premium. 2) Public liability insurance - this will indemnify the landowner against any claim you or anyone else may make as a result of him allowing you to use his land for practice. Public liability is likely to be expensive and will come with a host of conditions attached. Since 9/11 public liability premiums have increased significantly, in some cases events no longer run because the premium exceeds event income, or as in the case of some country shows the organisers take a risk and run without insurance. Public liability insurance and the conditions attached is one of the reasons why local councils are reluctant to provide practice areas for motorcycle or other activities. You are going to have to do a lot of research - perhaps contact ACU / AMCA for advice Cheers

I know some people thinking of getting their young son an Oset as I have suggested it may be more suitable than a petrol engined bike.. They have no mechanical knowledge and may get problems from neigbours etc with noise from a petrol engined bike as well as starting difficulty and risk of burns. Anyone any general comments on Oset reliability or other factors that they should know What is run time on a charge How long do batteries last Do batteries loose capacity / running time after a year or two old Cheers

Hi Perce - would I be right in thinking after Whaw riders went on to black Hills, Tottergill and Grand Canyon then Bypass on this years course before going over to Gunnerside then returning to Surrender. Cheers

You can do sme basic checks yourself. If you can get a 0.0015inch feeler gauge between piston skirt and barrel one or both are a bit worn and will probably rattle but can still be used for a while. If you can get a 0.002 or 0.0025 feeler in it will probably need a piston and maybe a replate on the bore. Check you main bearings by removing the side caings and try lifting the crank ends up and down - any "click" or slight movement and they need replacing. Whilst rotating the cran the main bearings should run dead smooth, and rougness at all and they need replacing. BIG end - same comment as previos poster. Cheers

I watched at Whaw and my impression was that riders were quite tired by then although it was only ablut 1/2 way round. I guess the soft going was making it tiring. I am lucky I live only a few miles from the course and know it pretty well, it really must be tough for you riders who come from some way off to ride. Cheers

NONE at all I would think 1990 was very wet and misty and there were some diversions, I think it was 98 that was wetter (horrendous) and there were some bits of the course cut out. Back to my earlier suggestion of slightly increasing the front fork damping - compression particularly. I did find this helpful, in a normal trial you get time to weigh things up and lift / lighten the front end, in the Scott you tend to run into more both unexpectedly and because you are too knackered to properly lift the front end. The fells on the course are pretty sodden and wont dry up but the rivers can rise and fall several feet in a few hours. Cheers

I agree, 4 RT standard gearing should be about spot on. No 30 is good - worst of slime off rocks and you should have plenty of other riders about for company. Consider going uo about 2 & 1/2 wt on your fork oi, it helps stop bottoming which tires your arms. Cheers

How do you know it is flooding? - is fuel running out of the carb overflows - if so its probably dirt or water in the float controlled valve. Cheers

You don't say what your bike is, your skill level or your weight. On a 325 bulto I used to gear up a bit on standard so I had a high 3rd gear, on Yam 250s and modern Gassers I tended to gear down a bit to have a low 4th. What you want is a gear that can do the nadgery non section bits without too much clutching but still gives useful speed and grip. Tyre pressurs is a trade off between grip (low pressure)and pucture resistance (high pressure)I would probably have 6 to 7 PSI in the rear and 8 to 9 in the front. You are almost certain to unexpectedly hit sharp rocks and fixing a puncture takes a lot of time and effort. Give yur bike a realy good clean and wax polish - this helps stop the much sticking and makes it lighter to push. By the way the clerk of the coure and his helpers are really nice people but if you make it to the latter part of the trial you will probably think they are a bunch of sadistic bar stewards. All the best Cheers

Totalshell - you obviously have a different idea of good value to the rest of us. Beta kick starts are pretty crap - the alloy is not as hard / tough as Honda for example. For my high performance 6 cylinder car I can buy a new alloy water pump with all the bits, gaskets etc included for £71 and a new brake seal kit for two calipers including seals, boots and brake grease is about £10. Makes the BETA bits look very poor value. Like when Yamaha used to charge £100 plus for a Ty 250 ignition case, fortunately John Shirt and latterly Nigel Birkett had them made in UK and sold for well under £30. Cheers

http://www.efunda.com/designstandards/oring/oring_chemical.cfm?SM=none&SC=Ethanol Have a look at the above link. The alcohol in fuels is ethanol and it should not cause any problem for nitrile seals. Cheers

#9 temperature. Many sealed indusrial bearings specify a maximum ambient / opertating temperature of 40 degrees C. Two stroke crancase temp is tyically 80 to 90 degress C. This 50 degrees difference make a huge diference to the viscosity and film strength of the lubricant. Cheers

Buy some octane booster. I find some standard branded fuel is "OK", but I have had engines pinking very badly on unbranded stuff, even when ridden gently. Best running seems to be on BP ultimate. Cheers

I did not see anything that was obviously TV cameras, but keep an eye out on 413 Motors TV listings. If the penrith trial website is still up ypou could contact the organisers and ask. Cheers

Always shop around Cheers

Don't rule out a TY250 R or a TY250 "pinky". Consider a pre Pro Gas Gas and judge it on condition, rather than age. Try looking at club trial results - often decent cheap bikes advertised there. Cheers

It looks as if you have a crack starting in the alloy - running up from the bottpom of the picture. It could be that that is causing your bearing to be loose. Cheers