dadof2

A freshly sand blasted surface gives the best heat dissipation. However this declines as aluminium oxide (anexcellent insulator) forms. Therefore for best long term dissipation a matt black paint is best. I wonder what they (manufacturers) use to control / prevent oxide build up on the currently popular unpainted aluminium radiators? although maybe it is not such a problem as radiators never get anywhere near as hot as air cooled cylinder heads. Cheers

An American company called "Lubrication engieers" supply purple oils. I think some Bel Ray (also an American company)products are also purple Cheers

It may be important which way round the wires go. One is intended to go to earth and this may be attached to the switch in such a way the whole switch body is earthed. Connect the "live to this and your bike wont't run. Cheerts

Strange one that scraggydog64. If you wanted the mixture leaning out you would have put more oil in your fuel - not less. % oi in fuel has very little to do with whether the bike runs clean or not - its the amount of petrol : air that matters. Mark your throttle and twistgrip with tape and pen marks or liquid paper. Mark it at 1/16th open, 1/8th open, 1/4 open, 1/2 open & 3/4 open. Find as good steady long hill as you can - you want the engine to work hard at the required throttle openings for as long as possible, 1/2 mi;le will do, 2 miles a lot better, you can use the brakes a bit but dont overheat them. You need a cleanish used plug for the test. Warm the bike up then climb the hill in whatever gear makes it pull steadily at the martked throttle opening. As soon as you get to the top close the throttle and press the kill switch. Remove the spark plug. It should be pale chocolate brown - darker means rich / too much petrol, pale or greay means weak / too little petrol. Slow running jet / air scrw has most effect up to 1/4 throttle, needle position most efect 1/4 to 1/2 or 3/4 throttle and main jet from 1/2 or 3/4 to full throttle. Better still buy http://www.amazon.co.uk/Two-stroke-Performance-Tuning-Graham-Bell/dp/1859606199 and follow that. Cheers

Never seen an alloy pipe melt but I have seen a steel pipe get red hot which is more than enough to melt aluminium. Cause can be build up of oil / carbon during slow speed riding then when engine gets a prolonged bit of high speed running the build up catches fire and burns at red heat - a bit like fire embers. Cheers

There is a dealer near Reeth - on the scott course. I think he's called Andrew Brown or similar - may be a Sherco dealer. Also I think Al the spanner formerly of White Brothers (Gas Gas) has set up somewhere near Toft Hill / Bishop Auckland and is gas gas agent, certainly he still repairs gas gas. Presumably someone will come along and post fueeler detals of these two Cheers

I would be a bit suspicious of a firm that had to ask, are they familiar with oring two strokes ? Pistons are usually tapered being less diameter at the top to allow for more expansion - if they measure it and calculate bore size from there it will probably seize. I agree with 0.0016 inch clearance but that is probably front to back on the piston skirt. Cheers

Rev3 front brakes can be a bit grabby. If all else fails remove the seals from the caliper and check for corrosion in the seal grooves. If there is any very carefully scrape it out and polish the grooves out with fine steel wool. The corrosion is white and builds up pressing the seal too hard on the piston which stops it retracting. I don't know the age of your Rev 3 but this corrosion can happen on quite recent bikes if road salt or fertilizer off grass has got in. Cheers

From your question I guess you are newish to trials. All the bikes have good points and all have drawbacks. More bikes of one type in a given area may just mean there is a good dealer within convenient travelling distance. If you are buying off Ebay don't buy without viewing / test and take someone with you who knows about bikes or that model in particular. Go to trial and talk to riders - you will find plenty helpfull. Cheers

I used to have a cub. Lovel bike except it used to jump out of second gear into neutral when pulling hard up steep slope. Regrettably my reversing shills were somewhat less than Toni Bou's but nontheless entertaining for any onlookers. Cheers

My guess is the red oil is automatic transmission fluid, I would check with Nigel Birkett which gearbox fluids are OK and then choose the one which gives you the clutch feel you like and good gear changes / easy neutral select etc. Cheers

My guess is the red oil is automatic transmission fluid, I would check with Nigel Birkett which gearbox fluids are OK and then choose the one which gives you the clutch feel you like and good gear changes / easy neutral select etc. Cheers

I doubt if there is anything you can do with the tank. Have a look and see if there is a plastic identification code anywhere but this is unlikely on a 1980 item. Depends how much you want to spend, but a bumper / plastics repair shop may be able to recommend something. These types of thermoplastic do not generally take paint and special porous backed / vented stickers used to be used. Cheers PS - Motorcycle screen polish or ArmourAll plastic restorer may be worth a try.

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/brakepipe/brakes.php See the above link, I would think there would be similar suppliers in US. Before yo reverse drill = which does not always work consider getting a nut welded onto the sheared off nipple. You need someone wih TIG to build up a lump on the sheared of nipple then drop an M10 nut onto the lump and weld the lup to inside of nut. Usually nipple then unscrews dead easy. Cheers

The BP5ES is hotter running than the BP7ES. It will burn off oil deposits better during slow running. Should be fine for a REV3. If it does ping / pink / tinkle when you thrash it and get the engine really hot try the 7. Cheers

Take the fuklel pipe off the carb with the fuel tap turned off to check the fuel tap is working. Sometimes a leaking tap fills the engine with fuel when the bike is parked up. Cheers

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duralumin See the above link, chances are the kickstart is made out of Duraluminium or something very similar. It can be welded. It needs to be TIG welded using a matching filler rod and left for about two weeks after welding to re age harden. If your local TIG welder does not have Dural filler then high silicon 4043 filler will usually do. The two weeks is an educated guess, If you use it within a few hours of welding it will almost certainly fail as the alloy will still be soft. Cheers

Don't ride it until sorted, the chips can get into the gearbox bearing behind the clutch and the bill is soon many

Sounds like it should have some form of zenner diode to limit the voltage. This would be on the live feed from the lighting coil. Have a word with Rex Caunt racing. Cheers

Its not just Shercos this happens to, gassers used to do it. Thoroughly rinse it inside and out with hot water and a strong alkaline detergent like Deb Janitol Original(5 to 10% mix in water). Then block off the vent hole in the cap and fill it again, squeeze it with the fuel tap open to get about 1/2 litre or a bit more out then close fuel tap. Leave it in a bucket of janitol mix for a couple of weeks. Washing powder wil do if you can't get Janitol. Sometimes this works, sometimes it doesent. Cheers

In addition to previous suggestions, I would change the transmission oil, possibly more than once until it comes out clean. I would also take the reed block off and fill the crank case with 2 stroke mix, then tip the bike upside down to drain it out again, This makes sure the oil washed of your main bearings is replenished and any dust washed through your air filter is rinsed out. Remove ignition coover and dry out with hair drier leaving cover off overnight, then give it a shot of WD40. The sooner you get the bike well warmed up and dried out the better. Permanent damage? I've known many flooded bikes never had any problems from it and the odd few have ignition, main bearing or big end failure in the following weeks. Cheers

Its a long time since I have done this and I thought the AF size was 9mm not 7mm but anyway the usual problem is rounding out of the socket in the screw. You can make this less lkely by grinding an oversize allen key down until it is a tight fit (has to be tapped into) the head of the screw. Then at the same time as applyying about 20 ft/lbs torque sharply strike the top of the allen key (copper face mallet) to send a shock through the thread.Repeat quite a few times. Cheers

It can be a natural feature of two stroke carburation (due to pulsing through the carb at low / medium RPM which does not occur flat out) that they run weak at the top end. From you symptions you certainly need to richen the bike across the whole rev range (assuming timing and plug correct). You plug colour should give an indication of rich / lean. 60:1 (68:4000)is very little oil for sustained high speed blasts whatever type of oil you are using. Cheers

I would check the output from your source coil. Spin the engine with an electric drill at about 600 to 800 RPM and you should get 23 or more AC volts. Cheers

Just curious - Why do you want to put this in? Cheers