bestrcpilot

When running does it rev clean ? Does lean out when it dies? Or is it flooding then dies? What Jets are in carb? Check timing? New points? Point gap? New condenser?

A new carb on any 30+ year old bike is always a good thing. If rules will let you a flat slide carb is a good bit of kit. A new flat slide slide Mikuni made my Ty run like a new bike. After chasing a flat spot I could not get rite of.

Take the chain off the bike and roll the bike around. does the noise go away? I find most squeaks come for the shock bushing or the swingarm bushings. give the bike a good wash and oil and grease any thing that moves A dirty brake will also squeak.

Btc273 Which cylinder head are you using on your ty175? It looks trick.

Ok now that the clown jokes are over. I learned to ride a unicycle 30 years ago in order to be able to ride trials better. It did help.

Check the reeds. A broken or not sealing reeds will cause the motor to run rich.

Well done. Have you run it with the boost bottle, any change to the way the engine runs?

Sorry about the bad wrist pin. But I think it's to nice a bike to brake for parts. Put a new rod and wrist pin and bearing in it. All the parts can be had. But just my two cents worth

Sorry about the bad wrist pin. But I think it's to nice a bike to brake for parts. Put a new rod and wrist pin and bearing in it. All the parts can be had. But just my 2 two cents worth

Sorry about the bad wrist pin. But I think it's to nice a bike to brake for parts. Put a new rod and wrist pin and bearing in it. All the parts can be had. But just my 2 two cents worth

When replacing the crankshaft seals did you replace the o-rings aswell?

Yes I'm running the points in my bike. That why I slotted the stater plate so I could find the sweet spot as far as the amount of timing advance the engine likes. I found that a well setup points system works great. Just check the cam on the flywheel is in good shape no rust and nice and smooth.

Yes the motor has been matched ported and the combustion chamber in the head has been reshaped to bring the compression ratio up a bit.. I running a 24mm Mikuni flat slide carb and running V-Force 4 carbon fiber reeds and reed block from a Yamaha Blaster 4 wheeler. The motor is only bored to 66.5 mm. My flywheel is still stock but I slotted this stater plate so I can change the timing from the stock settings to .110" before tdc. The bike now revs like a modern 125 but still pulls good down low without stalling

I'm running the wes single exhust with the same front pipe as your. I find that the engine revs quicker and cleaner. I do find it to be louder then stock.

Take your bike with you. NY has a large trial community both modern and twin shock.

I use to see a lot of crankshaft like those being shown, when I raced Yamaha engines in go-karts. We would drill or grind the holes in the crankshaft to lighen then and the fill the holes back in with nylon or aluminum. The reason was to get the engine to spin up faster. We would rebalance the whole assembly, chankshaft, rod, wrist pin,piston as a unit. This could be what and why it was done in the OW engine.

I would just weld a new piece on it. It looks like it was cut, broken at the weld joint. Not sure but looks like a Sammy Miller petal to me.

I find that a1/3 of the travel for the shag is about right. That is with you standing on the bike.

Try Southwest Montesa for parts. As for the no spark, check the points.

It's a 1976.

It's a 1976.

For the rubber carb mount you need the earlier one from the air cooled rd350. Re spacer block is 9.5 mm I had no need to re jet the carb. Hope this help you

The spacer block I use is 3/8 inch. The rubber carb mount did not have a hole for the cross over pipe just the boss.

A 140 main jet is the one I run. Try advancing the timing about three degree

The hub is the the right one Bultaco used it in 74-75. My M125 has the same hub. It is lighter then the earler ones.