splatshop

Yea, fully anti-clockwise would be very retarded, but I would only recommend moving it up to 5mm. If you go to retarded you may find that the fuel isn't fully burnt before the exhaust port opens, which could possibly make your exhaust very hot. If you go to advanced then the fuel will ignite too early which will put a lot of strain on the piston and cause a lot of heat, you will notice the bike tends to backfire/kickback when starting. How long is it taking for the fan to kick in once the bike is running on tickover?

These marks on the crankcase were only on the older bikes before the Leonelli ignitions. The marked stamp should be to the right hand side of the top securing bolt. The mark should line up with the right of the casting lug holding the stator in place. Hope this helps.

Hi Matt, I am sorry that the reconditioned exchange stator isn't what you expected, if you would like you can send it back to us and wait 3 weeks until your stator arrives back from Steve Hardraker we can do that, not a problem. We offer the exchange service for people that want to get back on their bikes as soon as possible, when a stator is repaired the majority of the time it is just the hall sensor that is replaced. When we receive a stator that has been damaged (i.e. coils, backplate) then other parts will be replaced. We will always recommend to our customers to have a reconditioned stator over a new stator as Steve replaces the hall sensor with one that is better quality the original, so there is less chance of you having problems in the future, while saving you money. Please see the attached photo, so you can see where the notch on the stator should be lined up against for factory standard timing (please note this is a photo of a later bike, but the same position applies). Regards Tim Pearson SplatShop.co.uk

We do 5.5" rise domino trials handlebars see here Unfortunately I don't think anyone makes those type of riser plates for the 22.2mm 7/8 bars. If you want a pair of the renthal 6" rise bars we can get you them just drop us a email or give us a ring.

Hi Jack We just added a little guide to the spring rates on our site, if you like to look you can find it here: http://www.splatshop.co.uk/ohlins-rear-shock-absorber.html Your spring is a 70N/mm spring and is about right for your weight but I did speak to our supplier and he mentioned that the Beta Evo's require a little more preload than the other bikes or possibly the next harder spring. We can supply you a new spring,email me if you are interested.

We do indeed try these: CSP Idle adjuster screw The Keihins used to come with a brass screw but changed to plastic when the chrome slides where introduced, I guess the plastic screw is used because it is cheaper to manufacture and possibly to prevent the chrome slide from getting damaged. We haven't had or seen any damage from using the Aluminium adjuster. Cheers Chris

These are the proper pliers for them: http://www.aapsa.com.au/awshop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3_37&products_id=358, don't think it is quite worth it for $111 Oz Dollars. I've always managed with a set of pliers and a small screw driver, like 'pumpkin trials' explained. If you want a new one they are pretty cheap at

Hi Ozzi Sounds like your selector spring may have broken, see here for a replacement. http://www.splatshop.co.uk/spring-for-gear-shift-lever.html

We have a Sherco Ohlins shock in stock but we can get a Beta one for you. The Gold shock is the latest shock, on the Sherco it has updated damping and a slightly stiffer spring, I'm not sure what differences there are to the Beta shock but the gold one will be the most up to date. http://www.splatshop.co.uk/ohlins-rear-shock-absorber.html Regards Chris

Hi Petr We have just had these made which raise the handlebars to the position that best suit you, we recommend buying a 3mm, 5mm and a 10mm set as this will give you heights of 3, 5, 8, 10, 13, 15 and 18mm so you can find the best height for you. Handlebar Riser Plates

Press release that has just arrived: Cabestany Sherco Replica One step closer to perfection Sherco presents the new 2011 Cabestany Replica, this bike is a reproduction of the one that Albert Cabestany rode to second place in the recent Indoor Trials Championship and the one that he is riding in spectacular fashion in the Outdoor Championship. Since its introduction in 2009 the revolutionary Sherco ST series has continued to receive steady updates and improvements, making it a very balanced and effective motorcycle. With the introduction of the Cabestany replica this constant attention to detail and ongoing evolutionary development has produced an outstanding motorcycle. The elegant appearance of the Sherco Cabestany Replica hides the many design changes that have been adopted to give the Sherco rider every opportunity to become the number 1 rider. The new bike uses Tech suspension units that are lighter and more efficient. It also utilizes new billet triple clamps that allow a new

Be warned the Caustic Soda will totally dissolve the aluminium.

I use 22mm, 15mm & a 15mm deep reach 1/2" drive sockets, a piece of M10 threaded bar, 2 washers and 2 nuts. Make sure the 15mm socket is under 22mm in diameter or pick a socket that is or you'll get a socket stuck in your swinging-arm. There isn't really enough room to use a vice.

The rattly noise I can hear on your video is just the kick start ratchet clicking, they all do this and it isn't anything to worry about. As mentioned before check for a spark from the plug. If there is no spark try a new plug, disconnect your stop button, then check all your electrical connectors are tight and clean i.e. not corroded. If there is still no spark check your stator plate, have a look at the bottom of this page it goes through the readings. If you've got a spark, try cleaning your carburettor out as you might have got water or muck in the carburettor. Hope this helps Chris

This shows the differences between the 2 different maps, as you can see all the trial maps available are very similar at idle speed and only really change at around 10,000rpm.

All trials bikes tend to get the exhaust bunged up with oil and carbon, going for a blast down a track or down the road if your taxed and insured, gets the exhaust hot enough to ignite the oily carbon residue hence the smoke, I personally find this the best and easiest way to clean the exhaust out. You'll probably find that it will make the bike run better and make it sound a little less poppy unless you really over do it and burn all the packing out. Unfortunately the only way to repack the exhaust is to cut it open, pull the old packing out, repack and weld it back together.

The drain hole regularly gets rammed full of mud and with the heat of the engine it bakes in hard, it's had 9 years to get properly bunged up so I wouldn't worry about it to much. The water pump shafts have changed a few times since the originals and they are definitely of better quality now.

Hi camer0n Yeah unfortunately we cannot get you that part on it own so I'd also recommend you contacting Steve at UK-Motoplat as he might just be able to sort this out for you, he is based in Spain but he comes from the UK so there is no language problems. http://www.uk-motoplat.com/contact.html Regards Chris Pearson

All the different year Shercos have pre-load adjustment on the rear shock, which can be adjusted using these threaded collars, on the bikes with 2 collars you have to unscrew the one furthest away from the spring first to unlock the other collar (Bikes with one collar usually have a small grub screw that locks the collar in place so make sure this is undone) then wind this collar till the desired ride height is achieved. Make sure you relock the collar after adjusting. On the 1999 and some 2000 bike plus the 2006 onwards bikes the front suspension can have the ride height altered and the damping adjusted using the adjusters on the top of the fork legs. Spring pre load adjustment, clockwise for increased ride height. Damping adjuster, clockwise for increased damping i.e. slower rebound. On the 2006 Cabestany replica and all following variations the rear damping can be adjusted using this screw.

The adjuster is at the bottom of the shock so if you get a long thin screwdriver you should be able to adjust it from underneath down by the chain tensioner without removing the shock, it's not easy but it is possible.

I use and recommend the Ohlins rear shock but I can comment on which shock is better as I've not tried a TRP yet. I don't think some of the TRP shocks fitted the 2010 Sherco, well they didn't when the 2010 bikes came out so it might be worth checking they have altered the design.

Hi, if the plug doesn't make a difference and all your earth's and connectors are clean and dry, try checking your stator plate, I've put a little guide on our website forStator Testing, it's not specific for your stator but I'm fairly certain you should get the same or similar readings. It is also worth checking the ignition coils primary and secondary resistances. Again your coil will be different but it should give similar readings.

Just a couple more tips that might help: Try pumping the calliper pistons out most of the way then undo the bleed nipple and push the piston all the way back in, this helps remove any air from behind the piston and helps to renew the oil stuck behind the pistons. Some times it is better to suck the oil through, take the bleed nipple off and put some PTFE tape on the threads and replace the nipple so you get a good seal, then using a syringe and a tight fitting tube suck the fluid through the bleed nipple, this can work better as sucking the air causes it to expand making it easier to displace.

Hi, from what we were told there was one small batch of rim stickers that came into the country then non until now, so it might explain why your friend has had them on order for so long. We now sell the Jitsie rim Stickers on our website.

Have a look at our parts diagram and click on the bolts you require, we have most of them in stock and at a reasonable price.