fourex

Just in case someone is following my previous rantings, I have more to add! It turns out the Australian distributor for Mikuni has a jetting kit listed for a "Fantee 250" (typo I hope) being for the VM26-8074. Needless to say I have bought both the Carb and kit in question and will fit it this weekend and hope for the best. I'll list below what jets the VM26-8074 has fitted as standard and in bold is the Fantee 250 recommended jets that I have available to fit. If anyone see's any obvious problem with this jetting, please let me know before I ride it this weekend. It's winter here in Oz, but it's still 20+ degrees Celsius during the day where I live, it's hard to take! We are also only about 30 metres above sea level. Cheers in advance for any guidance. Pilot = 60.(42.5). Needle = 5F3. (5DP39). Needle Jet = N-8. (O-2). Main = 180. (125, 130, 135). Air Jet = 0.5. Slide Cutaway = 2.0. Needle Valve = 2.5.

Berlatier on the Piuma with the conversion.

Attached is pics from the parts manual, Part # 32 is the overall kit.

I've not tried this Cota jetted Mikuni yet, I've since found the lightly stamped model # on the choke housing being 26A with 639 below. I've researched new Mikuni VM 26 carbs and found 5 different versions available being 606, 665, 8074, 8637, 8639, I'm assuming the one I have is the 8639. The inlet/outlet dimensions are all the same being 43/44mm and 35mm which match the Dellorto and the 606 & 665 being 84mm front to back whilst the others are 93mm (Dellorto is 90mm). Different configuration of air screw/idle screw/fuel inlet shouldn't really matter with the Fantic due to reasonable access from both sides. So my question to anyone that is running a Mikuni that runs well, is, can you tell me which of these models you have and what jetting works for you, please.

Manuale-300.pdf

1983-Fantic_300_Partslist.pdf

It was a custom build offered on ebay by our Australian distributor, refer attached pic of invoice. I did my homework prior to ordering and knew what should work, however I don't think the original actuating arm would have allowed the fitment of the slave cylinder due to not enough manoeuvrability, the kit from http://trialparts-shop.de/en/shop/klassiktrial/ausrueckwelle-kupplung-fantic/ solved any issues. The only other slight problems I encountered was having to disconnect the cable at the slave to allow me to route the cable through the frame openings up near the head stock, no big deal but just needed to place a 2nd order for some magura blood and a bleed kit. Also you will need some adhesive reflective foil to wrap around the cable where it nearly touches the muffler under the tank, easily found in automotive shops. I'm quite happy with how it turned out, but I still have that slight amount of drag. No drag at all when you pull the lever all the way to the bars but that is not how we ride unfortunately because our other fingers prevent this. IMG.pdf

It's a Magura hydraulic conversion kit with an actuating arm from http://trialparts-shop.de/en/shop/klassiktrial/ausrueckwelle-kupplung-fantic/

205 Euro for a new one from Italy. http://www.bosisiomotori.it/home/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=1523&category_id=3302&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=222

The vent tube is open ended and finishes up near the air box trumpets.

I'm in Australia but my Fantic came from Canada, it has a 8 digit frame number and 6 digit engine number which was lightly stamped and hidden under the paint (refer pic). If you require 13 digits as a VIN, could it possibly be FM40334004735, just a thought.

I've never considered an 'O' or 'X' ring chain for my Trials bikes, I don't see the need personally. I've always enjoyed good longevity from Regina chains. Just out of curiosity I found the following............ DID 520 ERT2: 17.60mm width and 36000 Nm average tensile strength. DID 520 ERS2: 16.75 and 25900. Regina 520 135EBXL: 15.875 and 26900. All non O or X ring, the DID 520 ERT2 is certainly a stronger b@$t@rd, just depends on whether your bike can accommodate the width of 17.60mm without rubbing on something?

Apologies, it was Friday arvo when I posted and possibly too many "xxxx" bitters had been consumed. So getting back to the frames, is the 240 frame a better option due to it's lighter weight ?

That's definitely a bitza, it's also got the 300 swingarm plus other 300 stuff like exhaust, airbox etc but housed in the 240 frame. I don't get it. The 300 frame is strong and doesn't have under engine frame rails, so what is the love affair with the 240 frame? Whoever started this post/topic should be ashamed of himself, look what you have started! In my opinion any of the twin shocks produced in the 2 years prior to their demise would be a good choice, but I do like the zippiness of a Fantic, it's the closest to a modern day bike if that's what one is looking for.

The 1984 Fantic 300 (249cc) would be my pic as Lee alludes to. Where does the 340 come into it Lee, surely you can't bore the std 249 out to 340? My reasoning for the Fantic is it has good ground clearance, good drum brakes, responsive engine even with the std Dellorto and good suspension when upgraded with something like the magical fork springs and pre-load adjusters plus 350mm long shocks (std is 340mm). Still weighs a ton at over 90kg, but they all did back then. Not too many mods required for this bike IMO, stuff that I have done is simply aftermarket top triple clamp to position bars over forks to open up the cockpit and alleviate that 'tiller effect' and lightened up the clutch pull because it is a very responsive motor particularly down low and I need to work the clutch a bit to reign it in, but I love it. I haven't altered the head angle as Lee suggested because I want to keep those things std, I'm happy with the 10mm longer shocks and forks dropped slightly in the clamps to give me a similar effect, ground clearance is very good, the magical stuff in the forks works well and helps to keeping them sitting up high in their stroke. I also have a '83 SWM Jumbo and '83 Cota 350, which are a little more "old school" compared to the Fantic 300, the engine characteristics are all very different, the Fantic is the closest to my '14 GG in 0 to 1/4 throttle openings in my opinion, hence needing the clutch a bit. Hope this is of assistance. PS: I think the Cota 330 was the last of the Twin Shocks, I've never ridden one but love the look of them.

It turns out the badges i'd bought from France a while back are both for the left side, only realised this today when I went to fit the right side. To make matters worse that French site I mentioned in the 3rd post no longer has them it would appear and Martin Matthews has none currently listed on his site. So, does anyone know where I might find some preferably like the left ones I've already got?

Are we talking GG trials bikes or 'EC' enduro models?

Amal L-2627/416 pic.

Rear suspension too firm/too much pre-load. Also if rebound is too quick traction problems occur. Many variables.

Here's another one showing the top yoke with a part number of 3930.010.

Thanks for the replies, since posting that up I've managed to source a 350 parts manual which answers most of my questions and confirms what you gents have said, cheers. It does appear that the 350 did share some 39M (242,304,307 etc) parts as evidenced in the prefixes of some part numbers such as the top triple clamp and "U" bolt bar clamps, the front guard bracket still appears as the older/longer style but obviously could have changed to the 39M style at the end of the 350 run and this manual I've got simply may not be the last 350 parts manual. I'll attach some pages of the parts manual for anyone that's interested. Just curious, did these 39M models have the plain alloy coloured brake hubs ? If they did then I'll assume my 350 was meant to wear them and I'll leave them un-painted. Thanks for the input.

I recently bought a Cota 350 from the US, it has some features that I cannot find on any pictures from google or any where else for that matter. Some of these features are plain alloy coloured brake drums whilst the rest of the hub is black, "U" bolt handle bar clamps and front mudguard bracket from what appears to be from the later 330, also triple clamps are different to brochure shots. Frame & engine number are 51M26641, so it's possible it started to share some bits from the upcoming 330, but don't know for sure. I'm just interested in how it should look if I ever do a full resto, at this point I'm simply doing a good tidy up. I'll attach a couple of photos of how it looks now plus the only brochure shot I can find for a 350, as you will see they are a little different, so basically I'm trying to work out what I have here. I know the mudguards are not correct on my purchase and neither are the shockies, so overlook those. Cheers.

Thanks David, It's sounding like the frame has either been modified by a previous owner or is possibly a 349 frame. I don't know what his frame number is, so cannot do any reference checking.

Well I can clearly see the resemblance to Chewbacca, nice boots too, are they Rossi's? Curious how the welding went, I'd be scared to do any sort of welding with an electronic ignition fitted just in case I fried something but I'm not talking with any experience.