fourex

drca, you're too vague, people need more info to help, what model GG do you have? Surely you're not referring to removing the needle from the slide, if you are, take all the tension off the spring by disconnecting the cable up at the throttle/twist-grip.

This looks to be the 35mm one, but a message to Dave in the US asking him to measure it wouldn't hurt. He states he has two left, one might be the 42 mm job you need. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Montesa-247-Cota-247C-NOS-21M-Air-Box-Boot-Carburetor-Flange-p-n-2162-060-/301471234526?vxp=mtr&hash=item463115f9de

Thanks all, Greg that's good info about triangular verse rectangular shock mounts regarding how to pick the different length swinging arms, mines rectangular. Reason for it being bent is anyone's guess really, previously bent shock as you have suggested is a possibility as it came fitted with some unknown brand of Mexican made mx shocks whereas the rest of the bike seems very original right down to the battered alloy mudguards and 860mm wide heavy steel handlebars. Graham, also many thanks, I'm going to explore the aftermarket alloy swingarm avenue at this point, your experience buying from flea-bay has turned me off that option. Robido's suggestion is what I'm currently exploring. After much googling I think I have found who Robido was referring to, I believe it is Berry Gamelkoorn who trades as AJG Twinshock Specials. Just waiting for a email response from him in the next day or so.

As above, my newly acquired mod 183 ('76 350) has a slightly bent upwards swingarm on the the left side just forward of the brake stay fixing point. I will attempt to have it straightened but would then like to leave it as original because it still has all the original brackets and clips in place for the stop lamp switch and its cable, which I don't need at the moment but would be nice to keep in place. Basically, I'd like another swingarm to install for some actual Twin Shock competition which won't bend, what would people suggest please? My thoughts are...... 1). Source another 159/183/191 swingarm on ebay or wherever and weld gussets along the the top similar to the 199A swingarm. 2). Source a 199A swingarm, but I don't know if they are compatible with model 183? 3). Find someone that makes replica swingarms, preferably in alloy. How top riders like big units like Martin Lampkin back in the day managed with these spindly swingarms is beyond me, works bikes with different swingarms I guess.

That is a very nice Cota 247 C, the very last model of 247 made, 1979 or 1980 at best.

I think you have a rare Cota 247 Tandem/Trail that wore a 348 style tank, if so they apparently came out in July 1978 and started with 21M25307. I'm only basing this on info I've found on the net, not from personal experience. Refer attached pics. I think yours is the cota 247 Trail as shown bottom left in brochure shot. Cota 247 History 2 of 2.pdf

Thanks all, I think I have enough info now on the old Bing. Cheers.

I have recently bought a 1976 Sherpa T 350 model 183 which I have not yet taken delivery of due to it being in transit from a few thousand kilometres away, should see it soon. The pics I have of it, show it wearing a Mikuni or a TMK or something. Basically, I want to return it to std once it arrives and I have a worn Bing T84 (28mm) that I just bought on flea-bay that I want to refurb and fit to this bike, I know that this will require new inlet/outlet rubbers but they are easily sourced from places like in-motion. Question is for any aficionados, what jetting would one recommend for this model with the Bing 28 mm ? I have a copy of a model 191 owners manual that someone gave me that states the following jet sizes............ Slide= 5 Needle=1(position 2) Needle jet= 2.73 Main jet= 125 Pilot Jet=35 - 65 Do these numbers sound right? Most of this stuff is still available but quite expensive so I would like to try and get it right 1st time, that pilot jet sizing is non-committal (35 - 65). I'm in Australia at sea level approx and average temp is 20 degrees Celsius if this helps. Any advice appreciated.

Here's a pic of a 349 mk 4, not mine just plucked from google pictures.

I think this is for 349/4 due to the frame in the diagram, I've got it labelled as 349-4 on my phewter. Hope this helps. manualcota349-4.pdf

Hello chappo, have not yet found an exact match, however bear in mind I lost interest several months ago due to too many other dismantled projects laying around me. I did find at the time that the Subaru wrx (02c) and Toyota Tidal blue (common Toyota colour in OZ) are quite close but are a little lighter and a little too iridescent, I did mention previously that I'm a pedantic prick didn't I ? I'll get back to this SWM project in 2018. Since my last post I have managed to find a set of used but original SWM blue front guard brackets which I'll use in the future as a reference when I go to one of those auto shops that mix up rattle cans for you. Once I have a rattle can formula that matches and I know what the ingredients are I can take that to someone that will do the proper 2 pac, that's my thinking anyway. Pic attached, not the best though!

As above, from what I've read in forums and some modern day magazine's it appears the mk2 was a limited edition model to fill the gap before their monoshock was ready to hit the market and also a tribute to Frenchman Michaud who won the SSDT in '84 and finished a close 2nd in the World title that same year, which would explain the white shrouds with blue and red stripes. Can anyone say with any certainty what was different over the original red shrouded 300. Obvious things that I'm aware of are the white shrouds, relocated chain tensioner and lack of a rear frame hoop, but I've also heard of things like relocated foot pegs, different porting and steepened fork angle, did they also come with a Mikuni carb? Was there ever any official announcement from Fantic about this mk2 version? Many questions I know, just trying to educate myself on this rare model.

Words of wisdom from David which I totally agree with. Some chain manufacturers such as Regina make Trials specific chains (135EBXL) which are light and strong and due to smaller side plate dimensions etc, don't fowl in the tight confines around the counter shaft sprocket and are std fitment on a lot of new Trials bikes. They are around $100 AUS but I use them on all my bikes both new and old (twin shock) and they last very well in our Australian conditions.

Oldaz, I bought one of these very nice aluminium mufflers for my 247 back in January for a little over $250 AUS delivered from Paul Arnott (Hell Team). They're the same shape as original but way lighter and very well made, not repack-able unless you cut it open however. Paul also hopes to have Gonelli plastic guards available soon which are suitable for most of these old twin shocks.Don Newell once sold them here in Brisbane, unfortunately Don is no longer with us.

Coming along nicely oldaz, I don't mean to be picky but your rear frame bracket for the muffler is way too long if you intend to run an original muffler. I say this because i'm going through the same process with my '74 247 at the moment, re-welding brackets to the hoop for guards and muffler. I'm incorporating a rubber grommet into the muffler stay also to help prevent it breaking again.

I bought one of those recently from http://buerkmayer.de/Montesa.htm in Germany. I have seen them elsewhere also, can't remember where, possibly In Motion or France Trial Classic.

For what its worth, I recently tried a VM26 (8074) Mikuni on my 300 but the original Dellorto is still way better for me. If I had more patience I'm sure the Mikuni could be made to work just as well. I completely re-furbed the Dellorto PHBH 26BS with new everything to the point that I later realized I could have bought a brand new complete Dellorto with my specified jetting for less from Eurocarb. Anyhow, you live and learn. Other than dropping the MJ from 108 to 105 all other jetting is as per the Fantic owners manual, it runs very crisp and clean and others who have ridden it comment on how well it runs. Maybe to avoid any jetting heartache with non-standard carbs, just stick with the PHBH 26 BS.

I've sent you a PM. I don't know what is wrong with your forks but from your last post it sounds like they could be bent, the shiny chrome stanchion part is what I'm referring to.

I've attached the page from the MH 349 parts manual showing the fork internals, looks to me like only 1 seal per leg and no spacers. It's the same in the 349/4 and 350 manuals I have also. No extra threaded hole in the head for a decompressor on any of these models.

Oldaz, this guy Dave in the states is good for NOS parts. http://www.ebay.com/itm/21M-Montesa-247-Cota-247C-247T-Aloy-Triple-Tree-Clamp-p-n-2130-003-06-/291316208183?vxp=mtr&hash=item43d3cc9237 I think the above is a bottom clamp, but he has other stuff that may be of use to you. I have found him excellent to deal with.

Thanks Gents, makes sense. I did realise that the 51M on the side was my frame number, I didn't really need to add that pic in hind sight.

I bought a Cota 350 from the US about a year ago, it appears to be quite original other than things like mudguards. I'm about to strip the frame in readiness for sandblasting but am curious what these stickers on the head-stock refer to and are they significant and whether I should try and preserve them. Might be something that only US people can answer? Pics attached.

I found a Cota 247 manual on the net some time ago, it covers all models including the UKR but is of poor quality. I saved it somewhere and will attempt to attach. Only 2 weeks ago I requested a manual from South West Montesa for my '74 black framed Cota, unfortunately the good quality manual Jared emailed me was for a much earlier model 247 not really relevant to my 1974 model. The '75 UKR is quite different to its predecessors due to gearing and clutch arrangement, the beast I was looking for when I stumbled across my '74 in ok original condition. Oldaz, if you decide not to go ahead with the resto and want to sell, I might be interested as I'm also in Oz. Classic-Montesa Cota 247.pdf

No, don't even consider it.

The S3 "Buffalo Bars" have some serious upsweep. I tried a set on my '14 GG because I was chasing taller bars, which they are at the ends, but I just didn't like the exaggerated upsweep angle they used to achieve this, for me the std flatter Renthal fatbars mounted on S3 adjustable clamps worked a treat because they lifted the bars 10-13mm and gave me heaps of forward/back adjust-ability. It's possible the Buffalo Bar is what you're seeking for your cactus wrists?