fourex

Some chain manufacturers make "Trials Specific" chains such as Regina, they are light and strong and are neither 'X' or 'O' ring and are std fitment on bikes like GG. I personally find the Regina Trials chain very good and fit them to my old twin shocks also.

Hi Phil, I think you mean HFS (hybrid fork suspension). I like it in my Fantic 300. You will get more answers posting in the "Fantic Forum".

https://motoswmsales.wordpress.com/

I always thought 403 was a reference to the 249cc motor but for some reason these pics I have refer to the 301 as FM 266, possibly just a typo.

Tuning Tips ? Nothing really engine wise that I'm aware of, my 300 was a low usage bike when I got it a few years ago and the motor has never been apart. I pulled the Dellorto apart when I got it purely out of curiosity to see if jetting was std, which it was. I just gave it a thorough internal clean and replaced needle and seat and jet needle for the sake of having it apart. It runs very well with the standard jetting, the 300 has no reed valve and runs the PHBH 26 BS, not sure if your 301 is the same? I've made numerous other changes to it over the years being suspension and yokes/geometry but that just comes down to personal preference and I did install a magura hydraulic clutch system which I really like (sorry purists). The brakes are also very good for drums and I enjoy riding it nearly as much as my modern GG ('14) except for the weight, 25+ KG difference between these old beauties and modern bikes but there's not much we can do about that.

Hell yeah, did it years ago mainly because my boots hooked under the shrouds at the most inopportune times and ripped them off leaving them flaying mid section. Fibreglass tank and alloy side covers from Delay in Spain solved it all. I had to buy a 240 style grommet/spacer setup for the top of tank fixing from elsewhere however, I think it was this other mob in France, I'll post some links at the end of this. The delay tank and side panels are excellent quality and are way more shiney(clear gloss coat) than the pics depict, petrol spilt many times over them and no probs with the paint finish plus your steering lock is way better due to the slimmer lines, I still suffered from the boots hooking the alloy side panels and dislodging them occasionally but this was only when crouching super low and then springing the body to get over an obstacle. My riding friends suggested this was because of the low height of the Sidi boots I wear which in hindsight is probably correct but, I like them too much to change boots. I have come up with a much more secure fastening system for the side panels since and they are no longer a problem, basically 6mm captive nuts instead of rubber grommets in the frame. https://www.delaytrial.com/en/tienda/accesorios/adhesivos/kit-adhesivos-y-placas-laterales-aluminio-fantic-300/ https://www.delaytrial.com/en/tienda/accesorios/deposito-fiberglas-pintado-fantic/ http://www.equipementmotard.com/product_info.php?cPath=219_232_257&products_id=3453 http://www.equipementmotard.com/product_info.php?cPath=219_232_257&products_id=3748

I'm curious to know how you find them both also, both look to be cleverly modded .From what I can see the one you mainly ride has the frame rails removed and a good sized alloy bash plate fitted and the 'Puma' one has a completely different exhaust system from standard. They both look awesome, I'm envious.

The MH 349, 349/4, 350 forks are all 170 mm when measured centre to centre at the yolks, earlier 349's were narrower I believe.

Buy yourself a multimeter, switch it to resistance (ohms) and check across the thermostat terminals with wires disconnected with a cold motor, if it's shorted than the thermostat is cactus.(as copemech stated). Swapping the polarity as you have tried proves FA, on some electric motors this may simply cause them to spin backwards. On other electric motors with diodes and such that are polarity conscience you are basically shorting them out. A multimeter is your best friend and will be forever. I'm an electrician in Australia and trust my life on "Fluke" brand multimeters but they can be a little expensive, a cheap 'digital' job from your local auto shop or hardware will serve you well.

http://www.swm-moto.services/ricambi-moto/telaio/cavalletto-tl-detail.html PS: I need a Kick Start lever for a Jumbo if anyone can help, it's the same as all TL's I believe. Sorry to hi-jack Herman.

M20 x 1.5 is correct for my '84 300.

More possibly useful info.

Does this help ?

Half a kilogram in rear hubs alone.

I like the one piece tank/seat unit, can you divulge who makes them? Bottom rear shock mounts look to be an improvement on original.

Thanks, I ended up installing a 12 x 1.25mm helicoil and plugged it with a socket head bolt and alloy washer, I never really intended to fit a decompressor just wanted to return it to whatever was the original thread. If the 1.25 thread pitch is not as per original than it doesn't really matter now.

Here's a pic of an original mk2 right side engine case.

The mk1 and mk2 frames were slightly different in one area that I'm aware of and that was the length of the rear mudguard mounting bracket, it was about 25mm longer on the mk2 to compensate for the longer swing arm I assume. I can't see the bracket on ScottyA's black frame, looks like it has broken off. The location of the top shock mounts would suggest mk1 or mk2 frame. Also the right side engine case is not mk1 or mk2 due to the shape and oblong hole but hey, this could have been replaced with a different models case or modified at any time over all these years. Below is a pick of my mk2's bracket which is cracked and ready to fall off but is longer than that of the mk1. You might have a "bitza" ScottyA.

pmk, I'm totally confused, didn't all this OZO talk start with the 12mm spherical joints not being suitable for the 14/15mm top lugs on a MAR. Where are you going with this total dismemberment of the Ozo's ?

I have heard Magicals referred to as glorified Betors in the past, probably read it on here at some point over the years however, I'm not sure if that really is the case. Maybe the Spanish fellow behind the Magicals brand was a past employee of Betor, who knows? As per the attached pdf from the Magicals website, only 12mm and 12.7mm spherical bearings available on their shocks, if you need 14 or 15mm top mounts as per MAR than you need to go rubber bushes, there's no pic of what they actually look like however. Ossa was a strange bunch of MoFo's in my opinion, they were ahead of their time in some ways with stuff like the alloy bashplate (not the plastic one), electronic ignition, exhaust out of harms way and robust frame of larger tubing but then they gave us probably the worst brakes at the time, spindly 12 mm axles, crazy chain tensioner incorporated onto the brake spindle and 14/15mm top shock mounts. Gotta luv how good they look though. Magicals Rear Shock Top Eye Variations..pdf

Yes, yellow wire with lug on it grounded to frame.

It looks like you have the red and green wires from the stator transposed.

Those specs from 'basecampkid' are spot on as per the manual, here's the page from the 301 manual with some english inserted for the other jets and floats. I don't have a 301 bye the way, just a copy of the owners manual. It wont load, other specs are 70 choke jet, BN 264 Needle Jet, 8.3 gram floats.

For anyone interested, I dropped the forks all the way through the clamps and as below slight fouling, but in reality they would never be this compressed. The second pic is closer to the real world, bye the way it's only 35 degrees at the moment and this is down stairs in our garage/workshop which is all brick and concrete being the coolest place to be.