fourex

Thanks Graham, TXT sent to mobile. Cheers.

I have found this to fit perfectly once the locating tabs around the carb mating face are gently ground away with a dremel or similar, my pic shows after grinding/shaving. It suits a 40 mm spigot diameter which is what one wants for the 28mm Dellorto fitted to the Jumbo which has the factory fitted machined sleeve to take it from 36mm to 40mm OD, the distance from barrel to carb is spot on and 75mm between fixings. https://www.jetsrus.com/individual_parts/002_052_su.html

Hi All, As above, would like a pic or two if possible on how this plate should look with regard to things like size of the digits and is Engine 348.5cc or 348.5 cm\3, also is weight 89kg or 89KG,just stuff like that. Reason I ask is that my Jumbo that I bought a few years ago is missing the plate on the headstock and I have recently purchased a blank plate from Martin in the UK, just want to populate this plate as accurately as possible when I eventually blast and repaint the frame (Suburu WRX Blue from years ago is close I believe). If you can help with a pic just tape over your frame/engine numbers if you don't want to divulge. Thanks. Pic of my headstock with rivets only and blank plate that I want to stamp are attached.

Here's some pics of how the mod 150 (250cc) and mod 151 (325cc) would have looked when they left the factory in Spain in '74/'75 . Colour pic is M150 (250cc) and black/white pics are M151 (325cc).

I think Goodo just needs to kick the booze and/or medication to get a grip on this, sorry for my bluntness.

Thanks ppl, I did get one from Canada, it's same shape as oldknobblies but seems fine.

Burkmayer Engineering in Germany does a nice alloy job for 36.30 Euro. http://buerkmayer.de/Montesa.htm

Try these people in Spain https://es.gprecambios.com/productos/592/Silencioso_final_Montesa_cota_247_Classic_Racing if your after a beautiful alloy silencer for a later model 247.

What year are we talking about here? This parts pic is really old, maybe '70 or '71, I don't really know. It's gunna be annoyingly loud with that type of silencer.

I doubt your spokes even penetrate the rims so won't be that, more likely you haven't fully beaded the tyre to the rim, it may need up to 60 PSI or even a little more. It should be easy to tell if it's not fully beaded because all the tyres I'm aware of have a raised ridge around their circumference a few millimeters from the rim. WD40 will help as thall1 has said, I usually use soapy water applied with a paint brush.

Main Jet = 100. Atomiser = emulsion tube = Needle Jet. AS 272 (no reeds) or AS 268 (with reeds). https://www.dellorto.co.uk/shop/dellorto-motorcycle-carburettors-parts/carburettor-parts/phbephb-parts/as-type-atomiser-phbh-phbe/ Needle is X2, SX 200 doesn't exist as far as I have found. Pilot = 50 (no reeds) or 60 (with reeds). Slide = 60 (no reeds) or 70 (with reeds).

Thanks Encyclopaedic Dave, that's useful information that I couldn't previously find but I'm still curious what others have used as substitutes when they couldn't find NOS jetting. My KT was restored by a previous owner many years ago and I have kept it in storage since I purchased it about 2 years ago, I only give it a run every few months but lately when it was running rough and then wouldn't start I pulled the carb apart to find the cork style bowl gasket had disintegrated and was clogging everything, just thought whilst it's apart lets replace what I can, new float needle and seat on its way from Robert in NZ but he does not have Jet Needle and Needle Jet. I'm thinking I will sell it once it's running properly, previous owner has done a stellar job on the restoration, it's too nice to ride and scratch for my liking. Keep an eye out on Trials Australia and Gumtree Australia in the future if anyone is interested. Pic attached from last week.

Hi All, I would like to replace what I believe is the original 43 yo needle and needle jet in my KT, I have found a NOS needle (5D1/part#16009-066) on ebay but cannot find a needle jet (series 172 O/8 or maybe 0/8) part #16017-087, hard to tell if it's a "O" or "0". I can see from various Mikuni websites that the outer dimensions of the readily available series 182 needle jet are the same as the Kwaka's series 172 jet, but I don't know if the internal dimensions the same. IE: Does series 172 O/8 or 0/8 = series 182 O/8 ? I also realise that if I find a modern day Mikuni Needle Jet that matches the old version that I will also need to upgrade the MJ to a newer style hex type to suit, I believe that the old round 85 MJ is about a 120MJ in the hex version, does this all sound about right ? Lots of questions I know but I'm in a quandary. In essence, what have others done in recent years when needing to replace needle and needle jet on these old carbs ? Cheers.

If you have a look at the 2nd post by Bilko showing the parts diagram, you can see the six variations offered by Montesa at the time, the last three digits of the part number are the dimensions. IE: 7.2mm through to 10mm. The InMotion jobs are 10mm.

Front axle on ebay. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OSSA-Titanium-Front-Axle-Kit-for-MAR-Explorer-TR77-350-250-1973-to-1979/362551422029?epid=786465185&hash=item5469bfac4d:g:xUUAAOSwI-BWFciz

It possibly looked like this under the tank (jumbo 350), nice to know it works well with the larger ball bearing conversion, thanks.

Hi Sam, PM sent.

Hi Andy, this fellow in Germany does a very good chainguard in alloy, also has a few other interesting parts like original shape mud guards. http://buerkmayer.de/Italjet.htm I might be able to help with some other things you need, PM sent.

Clutch actuation was definitely different to previous 247's with lever on top of cases rather than below.

They look like Gerry Minshall's clamps (UK).

Thanks b40rt and peterb for your thoughts, I'm not confident in splitting this thing myself now, having never split any engine apart before. Might seek advice from my local Trials community as to who might be able to help, any suggestions bullylover or feetupfun or any one else around South East Queensland Australia ? PS: I know that George Mc is out of action so don't want to bother him.

Hello People, as above, I have always had probs with up shifting regardless of oil type(mainly 1st to 2nd). I've put up with it in the past but now want to try and resolve it, nothing dismantled yet until I know what I should be looking for, so your advice please. Basically, gear shifting has always been notchy(up and down) and selecting 2nd gear from neutral is always fraught with danger as it almost always jumps back to neutral after applying load, changing from 1st to 2nd mid-section is also out of the question as I never know if it's going to hold 2nd, in both these mentioned situations 2nd gear has felt like it engaged ok via the foot but has jumped to neutral at the most inopportune times. If I need 2nd gear somewhere in a section, then I have to go to 3rd and bring it down to 2nd to be confident it's engaged, bloody frustrating! So, hoping someone with more experience then myself might be able to tell me what to check for when I dismantle, a scratchy parts diagram is attached.

Don't get me wrong, I love the look of Montesa's last TwinShock and wish I had one, but why did they go back to a full cradle frame? The 349/4 and 350 frames with alloy bash plates and no under frame rails look stronger and possibly a better proposition for Twin Shock Trials.

Being the odd size of 15mm is always going to be a prob.

15 x 1.25mm for Fantic 300 twinshock, I'm sure it is the same for 240. PS: Delay in Spain have aftermarket alloy axles complete with nuts for 240/300, probably of little help if you're in a hurry for it.