fourex

Now that you have me thinking on a Friday arvo after a few 'xxxx' bitter ales, no need really to pull internals , just loosen clamps, remove bars and drop forks through. This will tell me if anything is going to snag, hey? But as others have said, it's unlikely to be a problem because otherwise it wouldn't be an aftermarket option. " fantic240motor" your input is good.

I'm also curious whether the back of the front mudguard might foul on the exhaust on full compression, time will tell. At least I can revert back to original clamps if it doesn't work out (expensive exercise however), a frame cut and shut cannot be so easily reversed.

Yeah, don't hold your breath though as our Trials season is over. It's stinking hot at this time of year in Australia, last couple of days mid 30's in Brisbane and it doesn't get much better for a while. I know this sounds like an excuse which it is, but I will probably not ride it in a Comp Trial until Feb/March 2019 which will be the best test. I do hope to have a practice/ play session or two before then so will happily keep you up to date when that happens. Definitely no reason to modify a frame as 'midlife' originally thought when triple clamps might give the desired outcome provided the frame isn't already stretched as you have thoughtfully pointed out.

Just for peoples info, I recently replaced the triple clamps (yokes) on my 300 with some lovely steepened alloy jobs from Gerry Minshall. The standard front axle to swingarm pivot measurement was near identical to that of the 240 being 893mm and that measurement would obviously vary slightly depending on where one runs his fork tubes in the clamps. With the new alloy clamps the front axle to swingarm measurement is now 875mm so my wheelbase is now nearly 20mm shorter, my angle finder tells me approx 1.5 degrees steeper now. I haven't had it out for a ride in the bush yet so cannot make any comment on the changes. Pic below is how it looks with new clamps.

It was over 2 years ago when I did the mod on the Ossa and it has taken a back seat ever since due to other projects. I drilled and tapped them to 8mm and this appears to have worked fine but I didn't understand the benefits of a helicoil into alloy at the time. The S3 mounts come std with the 8mm low profile socket head bolts.

I'm a fan of the S3 adjustable bar clamps on my bikes, upside being a 13-15mm lift and fore/aft adjustability, downside being only available for fat bars and on a MAR you have to drill out the 7 mm top yoke threads and heli coil to 8mm. Here's a pic of the mod on my mk2 with tall Jitsie fat bars which when combined with the S3 clamps are actually too tall for my liking, I'm 6ft.

You're a funny cynical B@$t@rd b40rt and I mean that in a nice way. I would love to have any '83/'84/'85 Twin Shock 2 stroke parked in my garage, not a big fan of TLR's though.

I found that the original top clamp on my 300 forced me to roll the bars further forward than I would normally like for renthal fat bars. With the alloy top yoke I got from Delay a couple of years ago I can run the bars in a similar position to how I like them on my modern GG. Jumping from one bike to the other doesn't feel so different in that department anymore. I think having the bars rolled too far forward did give me that 'tiller' feeling.

Good point about the yokes, the 200 had the preferable and highly sort after top clamp whereas the 240 and 300 had a top clamp which had that tiller effect where the bar mounts were further back. I'm not familiar with Audit CNC but I do know that Gerry Minshall can provide custom made yokes/triple clamps for many bikes including the Fantic. Pics attached are Gerry's yokes for my Fantic 300 with slightly steeper fork angle requested than std, which I will be fitting this weekend, the quality looks impressive.

I have not ridden a 200 or 240 but do have a 300 (250) which I have been riding in Twin Shock events in Australia for about 3 years now, so I can only comment on the 300. The bike looks and feels like a pig as others have stated and those original tank shrouds can hook on the top of your boots and come adrift mid section which has happened to me a few times when crouching low to get over an obstacle. I replaced these with an aftermarket fibreglass tank and alloy side panels which more resemble the look of the 240 and increased the steering lock. The top shock mounts on the 300 also rub on the back of your legs causing some bruising until you get used to it. The motor is lovely and crispy in the low to mid similar to a modern but tapers off after that probably due to lack of a reed valve.

These are probably of little use Mark as they don't have dimensions of the roller cages, but here you go anyway.

Thanks, I've got a pretty good idea how to fix it once I know what it once was.

Could someone please tell me what this thread size should be, my Jumbo currently has an unsightly M12 x 1.5 hex head bolt and nut fitted which will only screw in about 10 mm before it meets resistance. It's been messed up by a previous owner as the thread in the head looks awful, I would just like to return the thread to what it was originally either by re-tapping or helicoiling and then fitting a suitable socket head bolt to block it off. A couple of pics attached, Cheers.

Stop wasting your time and energy oldman, strip the frames completely IE: no footpegs, no bushes, no bearings and get them blasted and then rattle can them if you wish(not recommended). Sand/bead blasting is not that expensive, save up the pension cheques or give up the gaspers for a week or two. Sanding that frame by hand is nonsense in my opinion. PS: Your bike is silver, underneath all that blue and white you may actually find it, keep on sanding if it doesn't kill you.

No probs, make your bracket from 2.0mm or better to stand the test of time, std appears to be 1.6mm. Just for those that think pic 1 doesn't look right, I agree, it's a pic I found on here or the internet and although I hope the inlet tubes are not piercing that rear guard I find it hard to see where it can draw any air, I think either wrong rear mudguard or a too short rear mudguard bracket or bit of both.

It's a flimsy metal bracket that is welded in between the rear engine mounts on that frame tube that runs horizontally just in front of the swingarm pivot. Just look at at the pics, a picture is worth a thousand words. The 1st pic is of the last model Cota 247 ('77/'78) which had vertically mounted air filter and wore squarish plastic guards like the 348, pics 2 and 3 are a '74 Cota 247 with horizontal air filter box which wore the rounded alloy guards.

Thanks Graham, much appreciated. Tell Mick to extract his finger and get it mobile for Conondale in November, that's the aim for mine.

Thanks Graham, have you let the cat out of the bag here, do you have a closet Jumbo ? That parts pic I posted is crap really because it doesn't show the collar that my bike has that slips into the bearing seal. Refer another attached pic of my left side set up. I think that the non numbered spacer looking thing on the inside of #17 is actually the bearing being the second #4 on my parts list, the Italians just didn't draw it to scale me thinks.

Anybody with a Jumbo when your next playing around with it in the shed, could you take some rough measurements for me please. Mainly the rear axle spacer #17 as per below pic, mine measures 32 mm, I'm trying to determine why my left rear shock splays out slightly towards the bottom shock mount whilst the right appears near perpendicular, also when I measure the shocks from centre to centre across the top mounts I get 233 mm but at the bottom I get 245 mm so definitely some 10 - 12 mm of splaying but I don't know if this is normal for a Jumbo. If it is normal, like a Cota 349/4 for instance, I'm curious why the left shock seems to be doing all the splaying ?

These snapshots are possibly totally irrelevant to those outside of Australia since the colours/tints relate to Concept Paints who manufacture it under the name of "Colorspec". www.colorspec.com.au This is what it takes to make 100 ml.

Apologies, now that I've wire brushed the crusty threads on the Italjet flywheel the Cota puller does in fact fit, so 30mm x 1.5mm.

Maybe not an International GM colour, but certainly a General Motors Holden colour from Australia around the early 1970's,

I cannot find my Italjet flywheel puller so I measured up a flywheel, 28mm x 1.5mm. I can tell you that both an Ossa and a Cota puller are different and I don't have a Bully puller to try either. Cheers.

I did a comparison of Italjet Green verse the Holden Panama Green on a NOS engine bracket I have, the Panama Green is a rattle can mixed up by Super Cheap auto about a year ago.